ikcdab

I do stir very well between prints as I do think there is some kind of separation of the resin if I let it stand. But I don't think resin goes off like that? It isn't an organic compound. I have recently been printing parts with 4mm scale rivets. I am finding miniature indentations on the FEP after printing. I am now thinking that maybe some of the rivets were not supported and ended up floating in the resin. Next print they end up getting compressed by the build plate and indent into the FEP. So filtering resin is my new cause celebre.

Its worth remembering that regular or normal services should only use a properly signalled route. In an emergency then different rules apply, but here I am referring to normal, timetabled services. For passenger trains, that means that any facing points must be capable of being locked and there should be a signal authorising movement over the points. If those are not supplied then the answer to your question is yes, the train will always take the left hand route.

The standard pw hut came with a toolshed that is similar to the one you show. But the ones I have seen do not have windows, so I'm not sure. The whole point of these prefabricated buildings was that parts were interchangeable and so all sorts of variations can occur. The only thing we can be certain of is that it's a storage shed of some sort.

So after all of the advice on here I am now getting good results. I now need to print some track bases today need to be perfectly flat on the bottom. Supports always give me little lumps that need sanding off. Would it be ok to print these bases directly on the build plate? I will have a go later and see, but wanted any input you guys had. Ian

Sounds like that's a lifetime's supply.

I don't know but in 40+years of modelling, I have yet to empty a pot. The real answer is that it depends! How many coaches, how many coats, how much you thin it. I think one pot will go quite a long way. Certainly it will do 3 or 4 coaches.

Hi Rob welcome to the forum. I am in Taunton so not far away. I have also used MERG kits, mainly SERVO4 and love them. My track is also hand built, but in 16.5mm. if you're passing we are always open for visitors. Ian

thanks. i had not really given much thought to the fact that a train might have had several kitchens and hence several sets of cooking staff. No wonder the fares were so high. New question, when did roof boards stop being carried? Their use looks intermittent anyway?

March 2019 That issue shows a picture of the kit and has an article "How to customise a terraced house kit" I think thats the one.

Hi guys I don't want this to run away with itself. This is a model railway that, like most, is imaginary. I have included features I like, not necessarily all fully plausible. So I have no runrounds because I enjoy the fun of engine release. I have a gantry by my tunnel because I like signal gantries and tunnels. I also have an engine shed with 10 engines sat in it doing nothing and a track gauge of 16.5mm.... But I want it to look right. Plausible (that word again). This is 1960s on the southern region. It's double track mainline probably West of Salisbury. But it could be East.....but definitely the LSWR main line to the west. I have a double track branch to an urban terminus that was modernised. Above Tulse Hill was mentioned and, coincidentally, the signalbox is a model of Tulse Hill. So imagine Tulse Hill, 1960s, but transplanted to the west and modelled as an expanded Minories terminus. Photo below shows the approach. I now want to add some signalling cables that look right. I like the concept of the concrete trunking being like a tree and individual wires out. How many wires run to a point machines such as the one in the foreground? I now plan to have a location cabinets on the left, the trunking running towards it, then a cable going under the lines to the point machine.

Hi Michael thanks for the comments. All valid points, but the railway is built and I'm not changing it now. It works well and we use shunt release for incoming trains. The layout is basically Minories with added sidings. So the two crossovers are as designed by CJF. My thread shows progress. What I am doing now is adding the details such as the point wiring. Ian

Ok. HW on the plan is hand worked so no GPLs needed there. I think I am just missing one on the exit from the top left goods headshunt. I do actually have RIs on the gantry, just didn't show them on the plan. I am sure you are right about the shunt signal on the gantry, but I like gantries and wanted to have one! I also have RIs on the platform starters.

Here is a site plan. I imagine concrete troughing out of the signalbox along the southern side of the track towards the gantry and tunnel mouth (there are signals the other end of the tunnel). Then wiring from the troughing towards each point machine or signal. If so, would these be single wires or multiple cables? A location cabinet near the gantry At the tunnel mouth, the wiring emerges from the troughing and goes up onto racking inside the tunnel. Images such as this appear to show multiple wires emerging from the troughing, maybe they go to other point machines in the vicinity.

My layout is 1960s southern. The main terminus has been upgraded to colour lights and point machines operated from a local signalbox. So my assumption is that the semaphores were replaced sometime after WW2 with the colour lights. I have installed (for better or worse) Peco dummy point machines which I believe are HW1000 types. I have a signal gantry, platform starters and two gpls. My question is what sort of trackside wiring do I need? I guess I need to run concrete trunking from the signalbox to each point or signal. Then thick wires from the trunking to the motor? Photos I have seen show multiple wires crossing the tracks near the paintwork. Also, location cabinets? Is there one near each installation? You can see that I don't really know what question to ask. I guess, what trackside infrastructure (wires, troughing, cabinets) do I need to supply? Would it help to post a track plan for clarity? Ian

Needed to complete my set. A Hornby Pullman Brake. This needs to be the more modern type with working lights. Steelsided. I think the catalogue numbers are r4430, r4166a, r4487, r4166. Decent price paid! Thanks

You are always going to be challenged in a 5ft length. But I think your second design is much more of a model railway and makes the most of the space. In reality there would probably have been some sort of headshunt otherwise all goods yard shunting fouls the single line. The fiddle yard is unusual and turns this into an end to end layout with the possibility of through running. With the four sets of points, you might be able to reconfigure it with two loops instead. I think it looks very promising and great to build skills and experience. Ian

Ok thanks. That means that in my train of 8, I have too many parlours and not enough kitchens! I need to sell a parlour and swap for a kitchen then. Thanks

Just to pick this one up again.. are we saying that a kitchen could serve the diners in its own vehicle and the one in the adjacent parlour car? And i assume that a "third class kitchen" was not a kitchen of a more lowly standard, but a normal kitchen in which its seating is for third class passengers?

Agree with that. It's not the lack of lubricant, it's that the old lubricant will have solidified. That needs cleaning out first. Any light machine oil is fine, I use this https://amzn.eu/d/f9QlN8R Ian

So success with printing the piers. Both sets now made. One I've cleaned up, the other needs to wait it's turn. Really pleased with these.

Excellent stuff. Brilliant looking building. I have now cracked the 3d printer problems I had so I can also now progress on my work. How will you glaze all of those windows? Ian

Taunton and we even have little windows that you can open and look down at the road.

Hi Ian, yes, there has to be a cross member of some sort. I have just looked at this picture. You can clearly see the cross members and if you look closely, i think you can see a further one right up by the concrete pads. Ill have a play on fusion 360 and see if I can add it in. The concrete pads at 8ft square, and the girders rest equally on them, so it means that any cross girder would still be 4ft from the ends of the deck. A visit is called for!

Having just posted that, I realise that the diagional braces on the main girder should lean outwards! As it is, I prefer the look of what I have done and I'm not keen to change now. I think that what I have done will still be structurally sound. I might change it, we will see, it depends how much it nags me.

And here are all of the main span components laid out. For printing I had to break it up into sections, so i will print the end girders as a unit, then the central girder and join together. I do have an outstanding question though. At the top of the cast iron piers are square bearing plates which the main girders are sat on - you can see in the picture below. What is unclear from any pictures or drawings is whether these are two separate pieces (as per my drawing) or whether it is infact a single piece spanning the piers. Both answers are problematic. If its two separate pieces, then how are the ends of the deck supported...if its a single piece then how is that supporting itself? As i wont be able to print anything now til after easter, i might take the opportunity to drive down and have a look - its not that far from me. In the meantime, if anyone has any insights, I would be pleased to hear them! Ian