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Realised I haven't posted on here for ages. I'll update on the new siding soon. In the meanwhile I have been building a new pair of block bells to add to the existing ones. First I made the cases. Just ordinary B&q stripwood stained and varnished. Then next was the base and tapper. Tapper is from 6mm square brass strip, drilled and tapped: Then the striker assembly. Again, 1" steel angle. Bell and bell pillar: Winding then coils using the lathe on the slowest setting. The finished innards: And one of the bells in position by the mainline control panel: More to follow soon! Ian

There are detailed drawings of the water tower on page 160 of Measured and Drawn by Stephen Phillips. https://lightmoor.co.uk/books/the-lynton-barnstaple-railway-measured-drawn/sp0103 It is the bible as far as L&B is concerned. Contact me by private message if you need a sight of a copy. Ian

Actually its at Blue Anchor. There are three coaches there, I'm not sure when your picture was taken, but the middle one of the three has been recently heavily (and sypathetically) restored as a camping coach.

I use 3mm cork. You do need something to take out any roughness on the baseboard. I cannot imagine just laying the track onto bare wood, its essential to have some form of padding.

Richard on YouTube Everard Junction has covered this well in the past. Trouble is I now cannot remember which of his videos is the one to watch! But he shows repainting, adding details etc. someone else might know which video or you could try contacting him via YouTube.

A child's nationality is usually determined by the nationality of its parents. If this is undetermined and born in international waters, the baby has the nationality of the ship's flag.

Here are some pics of work in progress. As I said, much the same design as before. I have made two of everything. The base with tapper: Bell and bell pillar: Interior with solenoid cores: Striker plate and new adjusting screw to adjust the striker: The case:

Thank you. Amazon have just delivered a coil of enammelled wire, so now I'm good to go. Ian

You are right of course, but the regulations do provide for this. You can't give line clear to the box in rear until the line is clear to the clearing point. If the clearing point is to be fouled by a shunting move, then you need to block back first. But I do accept that accidents have happened in these circumstances, Knowle and Dorridge being one?

Hi all, the bells I made above have been very successful. They work well and are a talking point when visitors come to run the railway. So much so that I am now making a second pair to work with the other terminal station. These are identical to the first set. The only modification might be to put an adjustable stop for the striker return ("at rest") position. But I do have a question, please. Which of the following layouts for the two coils is correct? Ie should they be wired in series or parallel and should they lie N/N or N/S? On my exisiting bells it looks as if i have wired in series and when i look at pictures of the interiors of prototype bells, they also appear to be wired in series. What I cannot tell is whether i have my coils lying N/N or N/S. Please can anyone advise on the correct wiring and layout of the two coils? Thanks again Ian

You may have misread the question! The escuteon plate is the piece with the hole in it which the key goes through. The "dangly thing" is the keyhole cover plate.

Most (all?) ready mixed household fillers are very smooth and water based. Just take a bit of one of those and thin it slightly with water to give the consistency you need.

its a pain. I am involved with another local (non-railway) show and we have to absorb these costs which, for us, are not insiginificant. we charge for entry so the costs get factored into the ticket price. For a free show, well, i am sure you will sort it out. Hugely looking forward to the show again and many thanks for putting it on.

https://www.gov.uk/government/news/card-surcharge-ban-means-no-more-nasty-surprises-for-shoppers

Thank you that's very helpful. I was using the manufacturers resin, just the water-based version, and using their published settings. My problem was that one print would be perfect yet the next would fail completely, even with the same settings and print file. I have my fingers crossed that things might have now resolved. Ian

Yes it is funny stuff. Just run a second print with the standard resin and, again, it's perfect. Using water based I can guarantee it would have failed as I never had two successful prints on the trot. So great, I now have renewed enthusiasm for the printer.

The good news is that last night's print run was perfect. Best I've done so far! Coincidence? Or just that i used standard resin rathewr than water-based? Anyway, i am now going to have another go and see if this has the same result. Ian

I've just been out and measured the mortar depth on my bricks. It's only a few mm and in some cases it's flush with the bricks. At 4mm scale that is imperceptible and essentially flat, very akin to printed bricks. I think the greater issue with card kits is the finish which can be shiny. All my card builds are finished with matt varnish and weathered accordingly. My opinion is that the result is more realistic than using embossed plasticard where they mortar depth is vastly over scale. Of course, there are card kits and card kits. In my opinion, the scalescenes kits are the king of kits and top of the range in every way. The 3d effect around the windows and doors etc and the roofing really makes them stand out. And they are very robust indeed. I do not like Metcalf kits because of the corners and the "dolls house" finish to the walls, but I accept than many do. I haven't tried the kits linked in this thread, but these do look flat and rather basic. I urge you to try scalescenes kits and see for yourself how highly authentic they are before dismissing them. There are some pictures of my own versions on my thread.

Thank you to all who have helped here. To be honest, a few months ago I gave up and parked the printer in the cupboard. Trouble is I can't let it rest. So i have now bought a bottle of standard elegoo resin and I have given up with the water based. I will try again with the standard resin and see what happens. Ian

When the company's assets were disposed of, then the copyright would have been accounted for then. And if the business of the company was selling images, then they will have made sure that the copyright issue was covered. If you have bought the slides, then there will be a copyright marking on the slides. It's tough, but if you want you reproduce them commercially (ie not for private use) then you will need to track down the current owner. This is a very difficult situation if the current owner cannot be found. You could just take the approach that you will use the slides as you wish, and if anyone challenges you then deal with it then. Most people are reasonable and will understand the situation if you do it sensibly. It all depends on what you want to do with the images.

Is the battery ok?

Haha clever with with the maths there. You are right that 20% isn't being knocked off of the £12, but it's the 20% of the £10 that is being removed. Whatever what you look at it, you areb saving the 20% VAT.

I assume that purchasers in Australia don't pay UK vat , so in effect, get a 20% reduction on the prices showing in hattons website? If so, then a "mere" 10% increase is still a saving. Though I admit that the shipping costs make my eyes water.

Just found this thread and it's looking good. I see yourb comments about the price of timber. It's down the for flakes embedded in it. But the baseboard is the most important thing. Without a decent foundation, the whole layout is in jeapordy. You have done the right thing, but on other threads I have seen people baulk at spending £150 on timber for a decent baseboard, but will happily shell out the same amount for a single locomotive.

Yes. Years ago I used to live in Feltham and EMA model supplies had a shop in the precinct. They sold plasticweld under their own brand. It is several orders of magnitude stronger than mekpak and if you use too much, it will just melt your kit.