ikcdab

And after several days work, the main running lines into the main terminus are complete. Dummy peco point machines fixed in place. Track then wired up, tested and some trains run! Now I have the up and down side sidings to make. There are 13 turnouts in this section, so that's 6 done so far...

So several sets of point blades to make now. There's lots on here about how to make these so I won't repeat it all. I don't use any jigs, just simple tools. I can make a pair of blades in a few minutes. Above are the tools. The square aluminium tube is what I fix the blades to for fileing. Blades are handed and my main mistake is to make two of the same hand. Having cut two pieces of rail, I mark the side for planing with a marker. I mark for the full planing length. I then clamp the rail to the aluminium tube. I then file from the "thick" end to the toe, increasing pressure as I go. No more than ten strokes to just break into the web of the rail at the toe. Here's the result above. Then, below, I turn the blade over and file the inner edge. And then a trial fit against a test piece.... I haven't gone into detail as there is no point repeating what others have reported. It's not difficult to get a decent pair of blades like this.

I've never had this problem. I use 0.8mm ply because once I add the c&l functional chairs, the height matches my SMP scaleway exactly. As for depth, once it's ballasted you can't tell the difference and you need far less ballast. I use "moving sleeper" tie bars by which I mean a piece of 3mm copperclad. It is just the right clearance to be a good fit under the rails. Personally I would stick with the 0.8mm. And of course, any percentage tolerance would be less. I just buy 300 X 300mm sheets, paint and stain the sheet then cut it into 4mm wide strips for point timbering. It's a very quick process and I see no need to have the sleepers laser cut. I bought the ply from Howes. It was only £3 or £4 for a sheet. Two sheets did my whole layout point timbering.

Or T=tourist

I think the problem is that coaches superficially look the same. Steam locos (apart from GWR 4-6-0s) tend to be much more identifiable. However I find coaching stock a fascinating subject. Mk1s in particular were a complete innovation and worth studying in much more detail. I have been a rail enthusiast all my life and have studied most things railway-related. When I discovered coaching stock a couple of years ago it was a brand new subject for me and opened up a whole new area of interest.

I actually much prefer the airline type seating on a train. You can make the area your own and you are not risking being seated at a table opposite someone with undesirable characteristics. And on occasions I have deliberately selected one without a window if I needed to sleep. So here is a vote for modern layouts.

I did just this. I used 1.5mm brass rod and I cut my own cranks from brass sheet. I did have some ready made ones, they might have been gem or hamblings. Don't suppose they are available now but you might try a gauge 1 supplier. Whatever you use, it must be rust proof...

https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/ct007-oo-40ft-oocl-container-card-kit-pack-of-2---oo4mm176-7970-p.asp

The coupled wheelbase might be a factor on tight curves. The longer the wheelbase, the more friction there is on the curve. Loco weight is also a factor. Some need more weight over the coupled wheels.

I also use Halfords primer and I find it great. To be honest, when our models cost so much in money and time to produce, it seems a false economy to use Poundland paint. Of course, maybe if you are priming large areas of scenery then cheap spray might be ok, but not on an expensive model..

We are not the only ones. A while ago I drive through France, Switzerland and Italy, in that order. France and Italy were waste and rubbish-strewn holes. Crossing the border to switzerland was like incredible, the litter and rubbish just stopped. Japan had this the best. There are no public litter bins anywhere and everybody takes their litter home. The streets are pristine. But then again, Japanese culture is totally different....

I use ply sleepers and would not go for plastic. Like you, I use 0.8mm ply which I buy in 300mm squares. I paint this sleeper colour, then I use a Stanley knife to cut it into 4mm strips. I then just stick these to the templot template. I just find the ply so much easier to work with. It takes the stain much better and has the inbuilt grain. I use MEK to stick c&l functional plastic chairs to the sleepers. I find the bond is perfect and I have never had one break. The advantage over plastic is that if you do need to remove a chair, I can be released from the ply with a sharp blade. You wouldn't be able to do that with plastic sleepers. You can buy the MEK as butone in litre bottles for a fiver or so, of you buy it from a model supplier in tiny bottles it will cost you far more.

Hi Andrew, were you using the templot import map function where it automatically takes you to the NLS website and then imports the map for you? Using the built in function should give you the right scale. If you are using the built in function and it's not working then post on the templot forum. Once it's imported then again there after built in tools to rotate the image. Ian

Was this between two signalboxes (which is my understanding of the term "Permissive block") or is it just one signalbox where two trains are allowed to occupy the platform atbthe same time, "Permissive working"?

If you look At the signalling record society website then it may help you as they have lo-res box diagrams. In general though, all passenger lines were absolute block. Permissive block was only used in freight only lines. Where there are three running lines, my guess is that this will be an up and down passenger line and possibly the third is a goods running loop. So it might be a mix of both absolute and permissive.

Looks really good. It's amazing how much difference the trackwork makes. I also use SMP and I build pointwork with C&L components. Your track looks so much better in version 2. Well done.

I think that depends on the individual signalbox and all my sectional appendices are now held away so I can't check at the moment. At bishops lydeard, crowcombe, Leigh bridge, williton and kentsford, both ends of the loops were trapped during the late 1930s. Washford was not a passing loop. Blue Anchor did not have any outgoing traps. Dunster was the start of the double line to minehead. So I guess the answer to your question is yes apart from Washford and Blue Anchor. Ian

Well first would need too know where this is. When you say " I can't get the map background to work properly...", what exactly do you mean?

Is it the detection on the home signal? If you need any minehead branch info, let me know. Ian

There's a list of railtours here: https://www.sixbellsjunction.co.uk/trf/trfindex.htm I'm not sure if the list is complete, but your trip might be listed there.

I placed an order on 25 Feb and it was delivered yesterday. It was for 4mm chairs. So yes, orders are shipping. I guess it depends what you ordered. If you look at the dedicated thread, there might now be more info.

I don't any free ones, but the scalescenes one is only £4. Does the budget stretch that far? If not, he may be able to draw up his own on the pc.

My railway shed is 32 square metres, purpose built with good insulation in walls and roof. I have a single oil filled radiator which I leave on set to around 3 on a scale up to 7. This keeps the whole place minimum of 10 degrees on the coldest nights. I don't use dehumidifier and so far have felt no need for one. I think having the background heat is more important for me. Ian

Looking good. i would advocate servos every time. They are smooth, quiet, reliable and cost effective. Suitable servos cost around £2 each. Then you need to mount them and drive them. As for mounts, there are many options. Homemade is easy out you can buy for £1 or £2. It seems you have two main options to find them. I am would recommend the megapoints driver. Very easy to set up. Give it a 12v supply, plug in the servos and then just use simple on/off switches. It is very easy and their 12 servo driver would serve your turnouts and signals. The bounce facility on the driver is excellent. Polarity switching can be whatever you wish, I have just miniature relays. Highly recommended, I would never use solenoids ever again.

Actually they already do that, or at least they do on the newer kits. Just checked the medium station and the fire station and both have scalebars printed in the bottom left hand corner.