peach james

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL7n5mEmXJo (someone had to post it...) I own a Husqvarna 53cc chainsaw...and cut down a reasonable amount of 2nd growth trees. Out back there is a stump from the first growth here- it's ~5' across or so. And that wouldn't have been a "big" tree for here. Long Marton's house had an encounter with a tree. http://pages.pacificcoast.net/~wx732/House%20Addition/Treedhouse/house.html James

Over here, there are some spectacular specialist applied paints for concrete, as well as a regular oil based paint. The Lego room has the oil based paint... DSC_0004 by Peach James, on Flickr (because he's so cute when he's being good...that's Allen, my young one). The choice of green is that it "matches" Lego Dark Green. If I was going to start from 0, I would get one of the epoxy based paints applied early on, before I did anything else. The rubber matting idea works well too, because you can remove them to get to the concrete. Carpet is horrible- everything gets lost in it. If I was starting from 0, I would see if I could get in floor heating put in. It is expensive, but worth it if the space is going to be used for a long period of time. We have it in our bathroom, and 300w worth keeps the space nice and toasty here in Victoria. (that's in about 120 sq ft/ 13m^3) It all comes down to how comfortable you want to be. If you intend on spending long periods of time living in the railway room, making it comfortable makes sense. I emailed Jason Sharon (of Rapido trains...) and said the following: >>The cost to make a layout in $ though, is relatively low compared with >>most modeler¹s income, especially compared with the TIME that we spend on >>layouts- even if each leg costs $10, that¹s about a 6 pack worth per 1x3¹ area of >>the house- and that¹s also fairly low given that the price for that bit of >>real estate was probably north of $300, and quite possibly north of $600. Our house cost about $250 per square foot. I hadn't thought of it that way! Thanks for that. That shows how I think about it- that the cost of the layout in terms of $/sq ft is not that high in comparison to the price that it cost to build the roof bedrooms kitchen/dining room rain deflector above it. James

Ah, but you should see how much 2 wire wiring there is in Lego DCC. It's simple enough- I just had to reverse the lower loop to match the upper one. (take apart at the connecting (electric) bricks, turn 180%, put back...times 9 or so for the entire lower level). But there is a fair amount of it, and it really isn't that great from a short circuit prospective. Some of it will pass a screwdriver test...but some won't. It is far simpler than the wiring on Long Marton, where there is a huge amount of wiring required. I'd be a bit dicey about using sub mini 25 pin connectors with full DCC current. I've used Cinch-Jones connectors for where I have full power. I used some sub mini's to connect switch machine (Tortose) to the control panel, but I am not too happy of using what is supposed to be a 3A connector for a 5+ A power supply. We've got 1 building lit up, the bridges, the spiral back in place, and were running trains up and down on the Lego. We're going to visit our friend next door for timbits (donut middles from Tim Hortons ) and then see what else we get up to. The lego is now all running except the big bridge, and that is awaiting more lego parts to arrive. When the bridge is done, I will make some more videos. I will try to make one from the upper level down through the spiral and around the lower level. Track cleaning may be required. Boo ! James

and http://www.flickr.com/photos/47105471@N05/11670664663/ That should be 2 movies of the Lego...to give some sort of an idea how much of a distraction it really is ! I find it hard to choose or focus on a single one of the hobbies that I am involved in- as well as Long Marton, there is also a pair of 3 1/2" gauge railway engines, and a 4" traction engine, as well as slowly progressing on what will be a 4 gauge (7 1/2", 4 3/4", 3 1/2" and 2 1/2") gauge ride on railway around the house, and we have really too much land for the care we give it. I'm also a volunteer in my community- currently on the fire protection commission and a volunteer firefighter, as well as being a director (at large) for the community association, and dad to my two delightful (?) boys.

The more that I have seen here and in Jeff's thread, the more it tempts me to relay Long Marton in either C&L or Marway (SMP) as the track looks far more "right" than Peco. Ah well, 20 waggons to be built first...(well, more like 50, properly...but 20 sitting downstairs...) That, and 1001 other projects, like making the down mainline work again, and lego building, and, and, and... James

Oh, bloomn' heck you two- you know about my smoke show? IMG_1525 by Peach James, on Flickr Yes, I am the responsible party...there was a reason why though...here goes: The original fuel control valves for each sprayer (3/boiler) were "hydromotors" (hydraulic operated, spring close, slow opening fast closing valves). They opened over about 25 seconds (it was adjustable), and closed basically, under the k of a spring (fast). They were getting unsupported by manufacturer, like everything else on a 43 year old ship. You should hear what Weir say when we want pumps rebuilt...anyway, the fuel control system therefore had 20+- seconds to adjust and maintain air over fuel, to prevent smoke shows. They were replaced with air operated solenoid valves that opened in about 3 seconds to full open. Here I am, at what "should" be a 1 and 1 fire speed, and the steam pressure starts dropping off. Fuel demand rises (to make more steam, add more heat...), and I eventually decide that I need 2/1 or 2/2 fires (2 boilers, so we can fire odd #'s of fires, but don't normally). I pop the fire in, then look at where the fuel demand is...at about 80%. I look over at the EOOW at the time (now CERA on the ship) and say...well, stand by for phone calls, because I just made a cloud of epic proportions. Sure enough, literally before I get it out of my mouth, the phone starts ringing. The best of it was we were off the coast of Hawai'i, and it was movie night... James

So, version 3.0 of the 16' span lego bridge works, and I have run a test train across it. It has been split into the 3 sections as per design, and will await BL order arrival. The intent is to have the track loose on the deck, rather than forming a layer of strength in the bridge. I am not sure if the bridge is yet strong enough for a full train, that will await the parts arrival before I can do much else with it. Long Marton is back together, and 50035 is coupled to a single MK1 SLP on the up direction. There is a LOT of track cleaning required before I will have it all operational, not sure if that will happen before or after xmas, but it is happening slowly. There were a couple of small niggly little faults- I had to change the relay power supply around to put + on the + side rather than the - side to make the LED work for track power indication. Other than that, it went back together suprisingly well. Next step is to go out for a snack, then come back and work on tidying up some of the lego used for building the bridge. I didn't make a huge mess, but still, it needs a bit of a tidy. I also want to put the last table into place, which I need to find the 22.5% angled bit for. (it should be in the red container, by the other tables...) James

So, here I am, mid December, with a still not functional layout, 3 months before the club comes out...perhaps. (I might not have them here on the 23rd of March, because I have a concert I am hosting on the 21st...) The current state of play is about as follows: Service through Long Marton is interrupted by 90% landslips covering Trout Beck and Bridge 254. Service is expected to resume shortly. The staging yard is back together: The DCC wiring should all be back together, without having all the sections in place I can't test it right now. Next thing is to lift the 2 sections back into place, then try running trains and see what happens. If it all works (which it "should"), then it will be putting R&Co 5.0c back on the computer, and trying again with the computer controlling. (then, bugsquashing...which is so much fun !) and getting the "up" set of programming done. After that: lots of test running. I am trying to build a new arch for the Lego as well: DSC_0021 by Peach James, on Flickr Which is now awaiting more parts. I have to build the middle section for it (another 4' or so), which will be a hodge-podge of colour before I get more yellow. The intent is for that bridge to span 16' across the room. The Lego train setup is going back together slowly, it was the main driver of the major rebuild of tables so that they would not be banana shaped. James

Oh, it isn't letting me reply... "No plan survives contact with the enemy" is prefaced by 7P's (Proper Previous Planning Prevents P*ss Poor Performance) In other words, the more planning one is able to do, usually, the better the plan will work with more options. We are told to spend something like 1/3rd the time that we have to create a decent plan. So, Jeff is well on his way to satisfying the 7P rule ! (now, if Rob will post a 7P, we will all be happy. I think a nice Brit would be fine...here's a wheel from one britwheel2 by Peach James, on Flickr James

KL well by Peach James, on Flickr

I'm almost with Duncan- lots of posts around here today. Although, the internet ate mine...so let's start it again. It has to do with relative heights of things... If the room which KL2 will be built in is 8' tall, then there is another idea how to make access "easier". It also depends on how the pit is arranged- if it is possible to build a stairwell/raised area in the "well", then it may be possible to gain 1'6" in the ease of access department...let me see if I can draw up something using the sketchs above. James

blinkin ' heck, but 6x4 is enough to support a house, never mind a model railway. We figure on at 4x4 being able to support ~10 000 lb in compressive at work. (building shoring for ships). James

So, I fitted the last of the drywall above Long Marton, now the two chunks above are sitting on their side where they belong. I have cut another 2 bits of wood for the support system about where they were sitting, next is to finish the next leg set. It was chilly here last night, so at about 830 I quit, and went and messed around with a computer that is being balky. (the one for the DCC control of Long Marton). It needed a nuke and pave job, which it got...now it is short drivers to connect to my home network. James

2 1/2 sheets put up so far- about 1/2 of a sheet sitting on the sawhorses, awaiting for time to lift it up with the drywall lift. I've got the drill sitting there, along with the screws...and the piece is cut to fit around the air fan. (one fitted to pump hot/cold air from the basement to the upstairs...above the wood stove) James

One of my friends over here (he's a lego type guy) is working (???) at TRUMF, the particle accelerators they are building/testing/rebuilding in Vancouver. My dad worked at University of Toronto Chemical Engineering as one of the machinists for 4-5 years, his shop was right beside what had been the reactor hall for the U of T. This is located...well, https://maps.google.ca/?ll=43.659039,-79.394267&spn=0.000031,0.013905&t=h&z=16&layer=c&cbll=43.659142,-79.393767&panoid=WXtz58OcDB5RulERSbaAKg&cbp=12,16.41,,0,0.63 _right_ downtown Toronto. One of the few tours I really missed not being able to go on was at Pickering GS, where I couldn't go because all particpants had to be over 16 or 18, due to the relatively high dose rate for the tour- this was as close to the face as it was possible to go kind of tour, by one of the designers/engineers of CANDU reactors. (and rather a while ago now...) I've leafed through Douglas Point GS's construction drawings (at least one book of them), they were a 1" thick pad of 3x4 drawings or so. As far as I can tell, Nuclear is the best of the series of options available to us to charge our Iphone 5S or what have you...not a good choice, but the best of the series of bad choices.

DSC_0001 by Peach James, on Flickr Trout Beck and Bridge 254 sitting vertical in the other side of the basement...now to get drywall tomorrow and do work in the other side... James

Next in the work in progress photos: So, what work had been done? 6 sheets of drywall (4'x8') went into the celing, and 6 "new" T8 6500k 32w fluorescent lights were put into that space. It started with me needing to build replacement tables for the Lego, and has worked its way to this. Next up is moving Trout Beck and Bridge 254 from the Long Marton side over into this side for storage, then I am going to put up another 3 sheets of drywall in the furnace room, which is where Trout Beck lives. I'm not sure if I will add another set of lights over there or not...there are a fair # over there now, but changing them all to the same would be helpful from some ways. T12 bulbs are becoming harder to get, and the ones that are in those fixtures have been there for 11 years (!) James

Some thoughts: Even 100 kg spread over 3-6m^3 isn't that much weight per m^3, so, therefore it might well be supportable by a much lighterweight structure. I _would_ make the whole lot dismantleable. Not "portable", but able to be taken apart and put back together without requiring cutting wood to do it. Wiring, perhaps. Track, almost certainly. But not the wood...make it in chunks that can pass through the door, and into a luton or similar big van. I have taken advantage of this with Long Marton, in that the 6'x3' sections are not easy to move around (two currently are awaiting moving...), but it is possible to move them around. I look forward to see what you come up with eventually. I would recommend making buildings- if you are going to stick to a S&C layout, then making all the buildings for a S&C layout over the next year while you wait should be rather fun. Have a look at getting some Kato Unitrack or similar to have a play with when you want- it doesn't need to be a full layout. (or even just 3 turnouts and a couple lengths of set track for an inglenook...that's a few hours of quality entertainment right there...far better than the idiot box !) James

I've fitted a light to a brake van, using the DCC Concepts lamp. It's not DCC chipped, as I just don't quite see the point- unless I was going to lay up the van in Long Marton, then it would be in motion on the line, and should be showing it's red lamp to the rear... The trick is getting low enough resistance from the pickups...even using .008 Phospher Bronze wire, there is still a noticeable drag on the wheel sets. James

I like the 3rd one more- the first one screams model to me because of the depth of focus on the grass in front- it appears "fake" because, if you think how a photo taken from 1' off the ground in coarse ground would look, you wouldn't be able to see... The colours of the grass also appear surreal to me, but that is with only one type of grass, I take it...please make sure you use more than one "green" colour of grass, as the real stuff is very variable unless it is on a golf course...even the path here (at work, on sunday...we have reserves in learning about flood), the grasses are quite variable in both texture and colours. But it looks far better than Long Marton... James

Strangely enough, I was working on lighting today. (mostly for the Lego, although it is above Long Marton's staging too...). The room is 12x26 or so, with at present, 3x34w, 6500k fluorescent lights where I was working, and 2 more sets further along. (for a total of 170w of fluorescent lights). The plan is to add 3 more fixtures. These are all T8, 48" fixtures. Before, I had quite a bit more lighting than I do right now, but that's OK. There is also a series of fixtures mounted under the Long Marton staging, which have 26w fluorescent bulbs in them. These are the regular screw base fixtures, so I could change and use LED's instead...but in any case, I did not want to use incandescent lights because of the heat build up. I may add LED light strips under the new lego boards, to add lighting for when I am operating Long Marton, I haven't yet decided on anything yet as regards that. (it would add ANOTHER transformer to the Long Marton power system...currently sitting at a lot there !) Lots of light is a good thing... James

Broadly, 2 classes of POL, that being "flammable" and "inflammable" (with the in meaning a nice low flashpoint...like -40 or so for Petrol...). Now, the two could be in the same train, there not being any real limit for that. If the tankers were for something else, (chemicals, vs petrol/oil/ect), then they would be separated broadly by hazard class, so that the tanker of hydrogen peroxide wasn't beside the one of Petrol, even if they were going to the same place. Now, I doubt that milk would be handled in with freight- the proper bell code is 1-1-3 for a milk train, and I'd assume 1-4 for a train of oil tankers. Several reasons why milk was treated as a passenger, first being that it was kind of important that the express dairy in Appleby got it's milk while it was milk, and not cheese... James

Um, if the idea of power base works, then it would seem what you need is something like 1/8th by 1/2" mild steel for the plates, and that's it. The magnets are stuck under the loco, right? so, then that's about what I would try...although, ideally, the base should be as close to the magnet as possible (^3 reduction in force...). In other words, you probably want to lay the track direct on top of the steel plate, with as little between the steel and the magnet as possible. If it is only required for the spiral, and you are capable/confident in your ability to lay your own track, I'd look for very thin PCB, and code 75 track to reduce the clearances to the minimum practical between the magnet and the plate. Also note, strong magnets have some known effects...like on CRT tubes, and possibly on other things (pacemakers...). I know over here I can get up to 28 lb draw, 1 1/4" diameter magnets. Quite an amount of pull... I know the problem with the quantity of hidden trackage. Take a look at the track plan for Long Marton: full2012track by Peach James, on Flickr I think I have 6 boxes of track used in total. I know I have a box spare... James

From "Ignition" It is, of course, extremely toxic, but that's the least of the problem. It is hypergolic with every known fuel, and so rapidly hypergolic that no ignition delay has ever been measured. It is also hypergolic with such things as cloth, wood, and test engineers, not to mention asbestos, sand, and water-with which it reacts explosively. It can be kept in some of the ordinary structural metals-steel, copper, aluminium, etc.-because of the formation of a thin film of insoluble metal fluoride which protects the bulk of the metal, just as the invisible coat of oxide on aluminium keeps it from burning up in the atmosphere. If, however, this coat is melted or scrubbed off, and has no chance to reform, the operator is confronted with the problem of coping with a metal-fluorine fire. For dealing with this situation, I have always recommended a good pair of running shoes.” Ref: ClF3 At work the nastiest stuff I work with regularly is OTTO II fuel...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OTTO_fuel James

OK, so where are we now? A month later, and the basement looks like this: And Long Marton looks like this: And I look like this... --- The way I made buildings for Long Marton was to cut cardstock to the drawings as sized from "Rails in the Fells", and then lined with a bow pen. DSC_0031 by Peach James, on Flickr --- Next job is working on the celing above where the staging yard lives. I have a "plan" for it. 10 lego tables are being replaced, along with the arrangements for how I support the staging in the middle sections. This may necessitate a fair amount of adjustment of heights, I'm not sure. James