Boris

After a bit of a break I've got this kit to a point where I am happy with the basic result, it needs weathering to a good degree yet and I want to put some more detail on the underframe at some point, bits of extra rigging, and some more vacuum bits borrowed from my next project. I think I am also going to drop the wheels out and use my MMP drilling jig to add 4 lifting holes to each wheel, I'm not 100% sure if they had them or not, photos tend to disagree so its getting them whilst i am on with it. I also need to tame those wheelsets as they are BRIGHT silver and whilst running nicely are a bit loud. I think I'll start with stock black on them and build up some crud, I fancy using talc and paint mixed to get some texture on the wheel itself and maybe some orange rust or bluing on the brake shoes. Kind of interrupted recently by a painting commission and learning a new cabin at work. Some photos will follow today after work and I will probably detail my ongoing playing with the bottom end here. Next project is another MMP GUV which I have already covered on here about 10 years ago, the third in my collection, and will be painted in Maroon of some type, I'll probably post brief details on here and random witterings about other silly things I am doing - like some H containers and maybe even a figure or two.

I would agree it's definitely been used as something, especially seeing as its largely still in LNER sand/green which would indicate use post closure, I have a colleague at work who I can ask, he might know.

That's not controlled by the ROC unfortunately. The derelict box was the original Seamer box before the existing Seamer East box was added and the old one became redundant about 1911ish, Seamer West was about half a mile further Up towards the Junction for the coast.

Of course, I should have thought of using grey primer I have dozens of them in the cupboard. I'm using army painter matt black for my black areas, mainly on the grounds that I use it for most of my other projects as well. i hadn't reallu thought about painting the wheels, I was more inclined to chemically blacken them as my luck with painting wheels in the past has not been good.

A little more steady progress to report, the body has been primed and sprayed in BR coach crimson, awaiting a decent roof colour and the black spray can to finally arrive (Clacton hobbies you know what I mean!). The underframe has been assembled and the clever bogie pivot system installed and working, it kind of works like a pony truck on a steam loco or a class 40 bogie so the wheelbase is shortened. I'm not going to go into a huge amount of detail on the underframe as its a basic solder and glue assembly, if a little short on detail, I have stopped at the basic detail for now as I want to be able to spray the moving parts and the frame seperately and without wanting to get paint on the details wheelsets etc. I'll add further details to the underframe once I have got some paint onto the basic bits, I'll also add the body brackets, again not wanting to add them because the body is on and off the underframe repeatedly and not wanting to cause damage at the moment.

In the area Drifflield and Nunthorpe spring to mind, Kirkham & Weaverthorpe have gates worked by a wheel, Kirkham 3:1 Weaverthorpe 2:1

Looks good tho. I need to do a bit of research because it would appear when built these BZs had an extra lamp bracket in what would be the class 2 position on a steam engine (just under the chimney) although later photographs show the bracket as being removed and just a bit of a stump remaining.

Finally managed to crack on a little bit with the build this afternoon, mainly body detailing - filling the guards door hinge holes, adding the locking bar handles to the relevant doors, some handrails, tail lamp brackets and the coach lighting jumpers. Really not that exciting, but these are details that can be added prior to painting (LNER luggage van bars are body coloured), just leaving off the brass T handles until the very end. I have also experimented with some slightly more prominent bump stops as the ones on the kit seem a little too small for me. The roof has had the torpedo vents fitted and has not been secured to the body in the centre and in each corner. I have left a slight pocket along the tops of the windows to secure the glazng into for strength, the stuff supplied is 2mm acrylic and looks ridiculous so I am not using it! Currently waiting for some microstrip to be delivered and that will do the rainstrip on the roof and the cornice piece under the roof line, the instructions say to use the 0.7mm wire supplied but by the time that has been fitted into the box for posting shaping it and securing it are going to be a pain of a job. Besides on examination the microstrip looks better, I just don't have quite enough to do what I want to. The body has had a bath and once the microstrip is fitted it will be primed and I will start the underframe proper.

I cheated and used a grinder on it so its mostly gone, I've reduced the thickness a little in places as well to give me a slot for the glazing to sit behind. I'm not using the glazing supplied as its ridiculously thick!

Especially with an Annetts key in like those things, a good way to knock a bit off a tooth!

Generations of signalmen carving their initials into the sandstone sills at Weaverthorpe SB between Malton and Seamer, unusual as most boxes in the area have cast iron sills rather than stone. If people are good more photos of the area will follow.

Did you find Lebberston Road though?

I've managed to get to the point where I can fit the roof if I need to and fit glazing. I think that it might be a good idea (regardless of the instructions) to completely finish the body and I can think about priming it and applying the crimson and even go so far as glazing the body whilst working on the underframe seperately.

I have finally made a little bit of progress with the kit again, a good 6 weeks off railway modelling with a painting commission coming in for a brigade of Austrians. The floor is quite straight forward, cut it to length and then solder the U-channel to the floor to give the solebars. Then you add the buffer beam brackets which also provide the jig to drill out the holes for the body brackets, then you can use the completed floor to line up the body mounts, solder on the retaining nuts and fasten the whole lot together with the screw provided. I found that coating the screws in a little bit of 3 in 1 oil and then using them to clamp the nolts in place prior to soldering effected as the oil discourages the solder from fouling the threads. More photos needed but the camera appears to be misbehaving. I suspect the next jobs involved the underneath bits and altering the roof to fit.

I think its a mk1 RU? Or it was anyway Like this?

Nice find

The Railway Train? Is that up there along with train station?

I'm enjoying this kit as its a manufacturer I've not used before and it seems generally well thought out, I noticed the bit about the cornice strip , but to be honest I haven't really got that far yet, although generally I read the instructions all the way through first before starting the kit, but that does make things a bit clearer. I think reducing the roof flange is a long way off yet, but will only take a few seconds with a grinder, next time I've got one out and I'm using a suitable disc. I've managed not to get too much solder on the bodyside, it's quite thin, but my iron is about ready for replacement and didn't quite have enough power to sweat the vents properly, hence a little flooding at the top to encourage the tinned surfaces to bond. No chance of a new iron this side of Xmas with the postal situation so I'll muddle through.

Ok, finally managed to get the cat off the bench long enough to crack on with the coach, being a parcel van there isn't a great deal of body side detail to worry about so this went together fairly easily and I managed to get the body together and square as well after about 4 hours work. The body itself needs a clean with the fibreglass brush to get some excess solder off and I will dress the hinges to they are a better size, some are a little large atm and the bottom door hinges are asymetical because of the tumblehome. I never claimed to be anything more than an amateur at soldering so rely on my fibreglass pencil to remove the escaped bits, you can see in the 2nd picture what I mean about the hinges currently being a tad big, easily solved to give a better look soon. The roof is preformed, if a tad long and the body must be about right because the flange fits in the body perfectly - not sat square in the next photo because the flange is too long and for what is a trial fit I can't be bothered to start adjusting it with the razor saw, the flanges fit and that's be happy. The only other thing that immediately strikes me at this point if the flange is a tad deep and therefore visible through the quarterlights on the coach, reducing that will be an outside job on a nice day and might just get tickled with an angle grinder. This is a relatively straight forward kit that goes together nicely without a huge amount of fuss or parts, initially I think this will be build straight out the box, I can always go back round and add more details pre-painting but I think for now I'll go with as is.

Ok, so I have had a little bit of a play with prepping the side, nothing exciting so far, just removing the solebar overlays and filing back the tabs. The instructions want me to add ventilator covers on the doors, push out door stop detail and add door hinges. This is where I found a mistake in the kit sides. As is standard on a lot of brake vehicles the guards door opens inwards, not outward and the kit has the guards door reduced in height to reflect this, so it clear the floor. So the hinges are on the inside and not visible from the outside, however the coach body side has a bump stop that can be pressed into the guards door and holes for the hinges (circled in red). The easiest way to rectify this is to solder a strip of brass down the back of the strip and then fill the holes from the front, carefully sanding them flat and carving in a door line. My goto filler for this is GW liquid green stuff which is applied with a brush, water based and cleans up beautifully. A link to a reference photo on Paul Barletts website just to prove I haven't completely lost the plot here. https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brerbz

Thanks John, Pancreatitis sucks!

Good point, thank you for reminding me, although no progress has been made yet because I've been really ill. Fingers crossed for the weekend.

Probably because the body profile matches the rest of his coaches so he gets the blame for them, whether or not it was his idea.