Theakerr

Do you ever take part in the Double Header Tours? I live up near Ottawa and I do sometime get down for the DH Tours although this year it is The Great British Train Show.

Not much to say except FANTASTIC. Really appreciated the video.

I had to go back to make sure this was EM, not O. The detail in those coaches is incredible. Nothing else to be said

To make my Springside lamps a little weathered I dip my thumb and forefinger in black weathering powder and roll the lamp between them. Often happens naturally when I am drilling out the hole.

To follow up on my previous post, I did shorten the front bogie spring on one of B1's and at the same time put some graphite powder onto the bogie axles. There is an improvement. I can pull at least two extra coaches without it slipping. As I understand it Bachmann have not upgraded the front bogie on the new version chassis, so this remedy will apply to them.

Thanks 34theletterbetweenB&D

Interesting info on split chassis front bogie. In general 9 coaches meets my needs so I had not experimented any further but your comments are good to know, appreciated and will be the subject of an investigation this weekend. Also good to know that there is some room in the new chassis since over time (and as the old split chassis's wear out) I will replace the chassis's on my detailed older models.

Back to practical questions!. I can remember the B1,s pulling 13/14 coach trains. My current Bachmann B1 manages to pull 9 close coupled and gangwayed Hornby Gresleys on a nominally level circuit. I read on one post that the pulling power of the Bachmann B1 seems to be down on the new chassis. Does anyone have pulling numbers for either or (or both) the new Bachmann and the Hornby? Also, does anyone know if it is possible to add extra weight.

For a number of reasons I use insulfrogs throughout my layout. As i pointed out on the paired Bachmann B1 thread, I have had to put tender pickups on all my B1's (and J38's). If Hornby have tender pick-ups that will be the decider for me. By the way, my track is very clean (that will mean something to someone)

Re drilling the Springside lamps, I also put a small indent with a micro point from a filed down mini screwdriver. I find my fingers are the best medium to hold the lamps since I do less damage to the lamps although I have put a drill into my finger a couple of times. Doesn't hurt much but it does seem to bleed a bit. Note I do keep my tetanus shot up to date

I suspect that everyone is correct about the availability of stand alone chassis for the B1 (and V2 and A4) is correct. I still hope you are wrong. I have about 6 B1's and 2 V2's all detailed and weathered. I would gradually replace all these chassis over time if they become available. I very much doubt if I will replace my current stock until it dies on me. Finances are limited and I can think of better places to put my hard earned pension, So no new sales from me. I suspect I am not alone.

Letterinbetween, it does seem that in spite of it all you have a most desirable better half! Mine does occasionally reminf me that when we went house hunting many anniversaries ago, a basement such that it could accomadate a MR was a pre-reqisit.

Hatfield would be a most appropriate place to "watch trains go by" as I think almost everything that became the ER could have been seen at Hatfield (especially if dispatched from Peterborough North). If I remember Hatfield was still on the 4 track section. Hitchen would be another place of similar potential.

But did the Model Railway get built?

Grew up in Grimsby and took numerous journeys to London through Peterborough in the 50's. Have watched this thread since the beginning. Still enjoy it. Brings back many memories.

Thanks

Despite the perception of the Great Unwashed, Harleys can be made to handle very well at ALL speeds. At low speeds they handle well right out of the box. This characteristic is one of a small number of reasons why most MC Officers and local authorities over here like Harleys. The only issue is you have to have long arms to get full benifit since the bars are wide. As for the spacing on the cones, believe me, they are not specially spaced for a Harley. I would like to see someone on a Duck or a Gxer try to get through them.

Sumner Hobby is Motorcycling (Harley EG). Winter and really hot summer hobby New Waltham, an ER based section of a what might have been an alternate route for the ECML from Doncaster to Peterborough.

Very nice. Living in Canada and not having access to many shows I really appreciate a set of pictures like this.

Nice

Just read this thread. Informative and enjoyable. Thanks

Folks,

Since i am the one who lives in Canada, I would like to clarify a couple (or more points). 1. Benbow asked for feedback and I provided my experience. 2) I will not buy from this supplier because of my personal experience. 3) and most significant, if one has a web page I EXPECT to recieve a response to an electronic communication. There are suppliers who have decided that the electronic media is not the way they want to go and ask for a letter. I respect that position and I will send them a letter.

Thanks Shortliner, Will follow up

I must admit to being a bit concerned about their service. I live in Canada and was very interested in their products. I have sent two e-mails asking if they could substitute a 110V transformer so that I could use it over here. They have not replied to either e-mail. I am afraid this leaves one with rather a negative impression.

Very nice.

FYI, I always put a bit of dialectric grease on the pins when i use these connectors. Stops moisture getting in

Many thanks for the pictures. I was going to try to put the spring inside the chassis screw mounting hole. Will discuss with the actual owner and see what he wants to do. We know your solution works. Question though, do you see any sign of the plastic keeper plate flexing in front of the foremost mounting screw. I have looked at my friends model and without to much effort I can make the plastic "come off" the two positioning pins.

Should clarify the rocking I reported. The problem is with my track. Using a strait edge the wheels are completely flat with no rocking at all. Also no vertical movement of the centre wheel set. Almost all if not all my other loco's have a bit to a lot of vertical float in the centre wheel set, thus they can accommodate a degree of miss-alignment in the track. Rob, I think you have a very good point about why the L1 is such a good puller when you say that all 6 wheels are in contact with the track. This is good, but it does introduce a new dimension to track laying. I consider my self to be better than average (false modesty in a situation like this does not help solve a problem) and one has to wonder how many people would end up being totally frustrated by this situation. One has to wonder if, with the introduction of near museum quality models, it my soon be necessary to put floating (hornblock) axles on "commercial" locomotives. I know it will add to the price but based on the length of this thread and others there clearly is a problem although one can argue about just how big it is.

Status as promised. There were number of VERY small "burrs" on various components. I cleaned those off but the front bogie still wants to go its merry way. Did some more investigation and I found that my tack is not quiet level. At the critical point I can just feel the loco rocking on the centre axle. I am certain that is the real problem. Unlike many of my loco's there is zero vertical float in the centre wheels so I suspect that even the smallest track imperfection will permit the formation of the inverted V that I hypothesised which in turn allows the front bogie to continue following its established direction. Corrective action would appear to be one of 3 options. 1) correct the track imperfection. Very difficult to do because of its location (under a bridge) and since I dont have any problems with my own locos, I will leave it as is. 2) put in some sort of spring arrangement either as described in this thread or a leaf type spring as per the K3. If my friend wants me to this will probably be the route I go. 3) file a little bit out of the centre wheel housing so that there is a little vertical float. I would be very loath to do this on a new model and especially one that runs so well otherwise. It would be interesting to see if the Black L1's have any float on the centre axle.

Picture shows what appears to be happening with the LNER version. Will have a look at the truck and see if there are any places where it might be catching. Will post results