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Campaman

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Everything posted by Campaman

  1. You can also do this using a thick PVA glue
  2. The problem with some of the ladies eye shadow stuff is the glitter in them. Cheap artists pastel sets are a better bet, grind them down with a modelling knife edge.
  3. I use a wash of watercolour after the tiles slates are all laid.
  4. Don't have it protude, so you just reach underneath
  5. If you have built the track exactly as that plan then it says in the text that you can either run it as two circuits with two controllers or one continuous run by making sure that point A,B,C & D are set correctly as per the instructions.
  6. If you just want undulating terrain and not steep hills just cut some contours out of corrugated card and stick to your flat ply, then cover those with masking tape to smooth out the edges, then cover with a layer of plaster/poly filler before adding you coulour and grass.
  7. Cut a slot in the baseboard under the sector plate and fix an operating rod to the bottom of the plate that will let you then operate it from the front.
  8. You can take some of the tack out of domestic masking tape by applying it to glass or tile then cut it into strips and use it.
  9. I have already looked at Crewlisle on google and yes you do have a lot of railway in that space. And I actually live in Market Harborough, the station is nothing to what it used to be when it was also a junction for Rugby, Northampton and Peterborough via the Welland Valley. And yes I would be very pleased to receive anything you can send me via PM on your build. Thanks.
  10. Thats got an awful lot of track in what a lot of people on here will say is a small space. ( I only have an 8 x 8 space which internally comes out at 7' 10"), doesn't look like much space for scenery, if that's what you want, and you could probably build similar for a lot less money.
  11. I already have a smaller plastic shed that is used for garden stuff and that has never had any condensation issues, so I can see the larger ones being the same, the actual walls and roof are twin wall plastic so its like being made from double glazed plastic already so I have no plans on insulating it, I just don't go out there if its really cold as my actual modelling bench is in our garden room on the back of the house. I was starting to think that layout height would be better being up, my last one was at 4'6" (1.4m) so I do not have a problem with height. I am still pondering the fiddle yard or not and double or single track issues. I am not looking for long express trains, just something with a bit of interest and hopefully a continuous run.
  12. My humble take on Goathland, just for fun. Scribed card, painted with water colours.
  13. I use Wilkinsons own brand matt varnish in a large tin that I either brush on or spray through my airbrush. Cheapest way I have found to get good matt varnish. Make sure you stir it well before use though.
  14. Try asking Dapol for a copy, I have found them very helpful in the past, I have built this kit but I don't think I still have the instructions.
  15. The kit doesn't look that complicated, dry fit parts that you can tell go together and then see what's left. I once built a Revel kit of a Porsche 911 that I got from a charity shop that had no instructions using this method and had no parts left over.
  16. Make it into a building before flying home
  17. Turnouts (points) are not a problem as if off the shelf are not suitable I can just build my own, no problem with that (using Templot). Been off the grid for the last couple of days so been browsing PSL Model Railway Trackplans by CJF and another book with more realistic plans in I am thinking that I could live with the continuous run only being single track. Halseys thread is very interesting as to what can be done, but possibly a bit too busy for me. Chimers idea is interesting, the doors (double) of the shed are in the middle of the wall, but as the shed is purely for hobby use I suppose a duck under is not totally out of the question, as I will have the second shed for general DIY and storage.
  18. Unfortunately, yes. The old wooden shed was only 6 years old, seemed good quality, was professionally erected, and re-felted, but it still failed, and the roofboards were sterling osb, once bitten etc.
  19. The old shed has gone, new started today. Appears the inside dimensions will be very close to the 8 X 8 as the outside is more than 8 X 8. Will advise more once the first one is up
  20. I wasn't thinking of above a fiddle yard, merely that the branch line could climb slightly to add more height interest, to be honest I am not even sure I actually need a fiddle yard, I do not have a lot of stock and don't plane on purchasing more, my interest in the hobby is buildings and scenery rather than spending on stock. Example below, made from plain white card and paper, scribed and painted with watercolours.
  21. That's a nice start, I am not a fill it with track person as scenery and buildings are more of my interest than operating, watching trains go by rather than lots of shunting. I like the private siding idea as that gives me an excuse for scratch building the industry buildings.
  22. I do have one CJF book, PSL 60 plans I think its called. The problem with the old shed roof was that the erectors had glued as well as screwed the boards on so there was no way I could get them off to re-board it. My old baseboards which I have kept most of the timber from were of free standing L Girder construction and were not wobbly at all, the lift up worked fine so I think I should be able to replicate that OK, as the shed is purely for a layout then I could possibly have a fixed duck under as I will have the other shed for DIY with easy access, the old 16 x 8 had to work as both so the layout was a folded double dog bone with lift up. Off to read the two threads above. Thanks
  23. Due to complications with a leaking roof on my 16 x 8 shed its now gone to the tip and will be replaced with two 8 x 8 plastic sheds, one for the DIY stuff and the other for the railway, no more leaking roofs and no wood treatment required. I am looking for ideas for a plan for the space. Desirable, wants & ideas: 00 gauge Continuous double track run with through station Possible rising single track branch Lift up flap over entry doors, no duck under. I also build plastic kits so era may be the build up to D-Day Possible fiddle yard under the branch I guess the interior space will be around 7'10" square allowing for the wall thickness etc. Cheers Andy
  24. I do have similar problems, I have a interstitial lung disease, I use a good quality face mask when spraying and soldering and always try to do it within range of an open door so I try to keep that part of the hobby for the summer months. Lots of different fumes and smells can set me off, but you learn what does and take appropriate action such as only using acrylic paints, fans on when soldering etc.
  25. As above, I have used it for years and I have gradients, not having to clean the rails is a real bonus as some of mine are difficult to get to, I do get the occasional wheel slip from some steamers when starting on a gradient, but I put that down as prototypical. Diesel and Electric locos have no problems at all. Again as Michael says, try it, if you don't like it, it comes of easily enough with IPA
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