Luigi Taveri

Ah, so you did! 🙈 I have had reasonable success searching via the notes section (in my case for 'graffiti' (which I fully appreciate is defacing someone else's property but some of it is very skilled and gifted) and Pullman-Standard 2 bay covhop conversions - but not both together). It obviously doesn't capture everything but it does start you down an interesting path. Foxy

Hi F-U I'd also suggest railcarphotos.com as well? You need to sign up as a member to get access to the resource but there's no catches with it. You'll get a flavour for it from the home page anyway. The search menu is immense! Hth? Foxy

We did a (very enjoyable) trip to Gothenburg and Copenhagen via Oresund Tag last September, and in the style of SRman above, these were Mrs Foxy's favourite trains due to their colours....... I thought I'd best really add a couple of photos as evidence rather than hijack Patrick's better efforts. Grab shot on way into Malmo. And a couple of X2000s same day (and in both grey tones as referenced by SRman above). Foxy

I finished this in about September, having plodded through with it for about twelve months prior to that. I bought a spare chassis earlier this year, and since then I've noticed that they seem to appear on eBay on an almost constant basis? Bought some 25 years ago(?) in Southern black colours and original twin motor form. It laid in the drawer for years, particularly after converting to digital, but it was always going to look out of place with the more modern NS stuff I'm running anyway. I didn’t want to get rid of it, and I found a scruffy Greater Winnipeg Water District 100 which matched the Bachmann model and appealed to me. The drive gears had cracked. I tried the baking soda super glue repair first but this wasn’t successful, so I sleeved the gears with Evergreen 1/8” tubing filed out to give a force fit over the axle stub. Chipped initially with a basic Hornby decoder but didn’t get the twin motor connections correct the first time and fryed the chip (which was partly why I used it). TCS M1 replacement and replaced the bulbs with much improved LEDs. This is one of the last locos to be chipped in my collection (I wonder why………), but it hasn’t been used and I wasn’t that bothered about replacing it with a can motor chassis, as it is only going to potter about occasionally (and it was a gift as well, so that was another reason for keeping it). Lot of wiring but not as restrictive as it looks (though it won't be used on tight radii) Kadee couplings were hard work in the end. Despite using #37 as recommended, I found that the box was bearing down on the bogies so it took a bit of messing about to get the box high enough, and the coupler still at the correct level. Flush glazed. Small front windows cut down from Bachmann glazing unit. Big front windows filed down from AMB lasercut for Athearn SD/GP units. Side windows utilise the number board glazing from the same kit (which are virtually perfect fit!). Halfords rack grey, and Vauxhall mustard yellow, although subsequent photos suggest the grey should be silver? Nevertheless, I’m quite happy with the grey, and whilst the intention was to weather it, I actually prefer the clean finish. The black stripes are aircraft specific decals from a hunt on eBay. (The yard area is new and needs toning down) It will be utilised as a ‘contract’ switcher so won’t be worked hard, and I have acquired a later (twin motor) version spare chassis for swapping out motors if necessary. Couple of useful articles 1. Model Railroader January 2001 – Installing DCC in a 44 tonner (Tony Capato) (although I can't have read it properly). 2. Model Railroader October 2000 – Union Freight (John Pryke) – this references motor problems and the softer carbon brushes in first run models clogging commutator gaps. Foxy

I said I would post an update photo in a couple of weeks, so over a year later, here it is. This completes the collection. Not particularly badly weathered but the CNW yellow obviously faded quite badly in the sun, so I painted in 'faded' yellow from the off (Wilkos - there's no colour on the tin but then that doesn't really matter now.......). Bit of light weathering. Three hatches versus the 4 & 5 on the three above. Foxy

Very brief update on this. Covid got in the way of this (but conversely an opportunity to sort out running on my layout and consequent exercise in completing fitting decoders to my loco fleet). Painted and decalled but no further progress since. Foxy

Hi SQ I fitted an SMD84 (solenoids) about two years ago specifically for route setting in a hidden double ended fiddle yard. I use NCE pro-cab (and whilst I can't remember exactly) i found it straightforward, once the decoder was set for programming, to programme macros for the five tracks (between 4 and 8 point changes). There is a minor issue for solenoids in that the SMD84 has an integral CDU which re-charges from track voltage, and therefore draws power away from any operating locos, but I presume this isn't relevant for servos. I believe Team Digital are no longer in business. Nevertheless, I've been really pleased with its performance. Foxy

Hi Steve Sorry it's a week longer than promised. Not sure whether the photo helps or not, but it does show the coupling box arrangement. I used the thicker cover and that's on the top of the coupling ie next to the body mounting. This is the older model (one of the bogies is in the background in 'bits') and I found I had to 'slide' the chassis into place, as it won't just drop in. Foxy

Hi Steve I've just recently fitted a pair to a GE 44 tonner too. I had to download the 44t fitting guide from Kadee in the end, but still needed three hands to sort it. I didn't realise that there was a difference in the thickness of the lids either until I'd glued them in place on the first one but I was lucky enough to get it right first time. I can upload a photo of the coupling in place if needed, but it won't be before Sunday? Foxy

Hi Simon First of all, what a superb YouTube video! I watched it all. The camera work (with sound) is fantastic! Now as to your query then I'm a little out of my depth with coaching stock so I don't know whether there are conversion kits or the like. However, I would approach the problem by looking for other coach models with the 'correct' (ie exactly or very close to) profile and 'cut and shut' in the horizontal plane? Foxy

Hi Keith With regards to the query on the couplings, it does look from the photo as though the (a?) previous owner has done the hard work for you and filed the coupling mount to the correct height, and all you need to do is mount a kadee no5 in a standard box ( possibly using a 2-56 bolt or the BA equivalent)? Foxy

Long time no show! Kit building took a bit of a backstep during Covid (in fact a large step back) as I used the 'spare' time to get my layout running, and tuning loco decoders to suit (my 'spare' time is on a weekend as I work away during the week). I've made a little progress in recent weeks with CovHops but I've had things to sort out of a weekend recently and not had the time to re-set my account after the major IT failure earlier this year. I've just re-uploaded my photos to my content this afternoon. I only had 20 or so missing, but that's time I'll never get back, so I applaud those who have made a better effort to update than I have. Anyway a couple of update photos on my 2 bay 'cut & shuts'. A second Genstar below. And progress photo for a CNW conversion. This one is different to the previous conversions, as the centre cut and shut rib is double width. So, slightly different, but you've got to study it to know it's there? This one is now substantially complete and I'll upload an up to date photo shortly (ie next coming weeks...) Foxy

Further progress with second conversion - SOO 100150 I'm pleased with the way the roof hatches have turned out using the hole punch. I used the latches from the P2K kit for the latches for the new hatches. I will probably lower the hatches on the first conversion I did (ie the Genstar) I didn't go a bundle on the weathering. Bit on the roof, and a bit on the discharge hoppers. The inspiration. Photo from the car window at Burlington WI, 8th Oct 99. A poor photo of WC2057 was better than none, and years later I've also got a picture of a genuine PS 2 bay hopper conversion so it was a no-brainer. I have a series of poor photos but when I look back through them now I've actually caught some interesting details within them. Foxy

Hi Chris I agree with you about the more you research them, the more intriguing they get. I'm really impressed with the front extension, although I will probably limit myself to an air-con unit and straightforward kit build (because I've a stack of stuff to complete and I'm on a mission, albeit a slow mission!). I'm presuming Conrail Shared livery is yellow? I've not made up my mind on my paint scheme, initial preference is yellow, but orange might be a bit different for a change? Foxy

Some further progress photos. Couple of photos showing three quarter views of the general assembly. There is a control panel on both sides of the cab, and I soldered the second with some careful measuring prior to soldering the second side in place. I think I soldered the cab back wall in first to help position the second side before soldering that in place. I then soldered the front cab wall in place after that. All fingers and thumbs to get this sorted. As in the previous post, I'm slowly drilling for the various fixings and hoses so it'll be some time before I get back onto fitting out. Foxy

Hi Chris My kit also includes the monofilament, and that's the point I'm at now, with drilling the various holes for the hydraulics and handrails, before I proceed on fitting out the tamping plant. Foxy

Gents Thanks for your comments on my excess solder problems. I will look at giving them a go (and, Hayfield, thanks for the encouragement to continue!). Foxy

Kev, I've started it and posted some progress over on the US sub-forum. Foxy

Hi Jon What did you think of them? I can't find much on the web on people building them (although I think there is one hidden in this sub-forum)? Foxy

An eBay purchase from last year. I'd always been interested in them from the Walthers catalogues but wasn't brave enough to commit to a Trans-Atlantic purchase with the likelihood of import duty and the possibility of being out of my depth. A box of (daunting) bits. It's designed for gluing only so the assembly sequence follows this basis. I decided that I wanted to solder it and did a fair bit of research, procurement and testing (via an MTK Class 59 test piece - also a bargain buy from eBay. That experience is listed elsewhere on RMWeb) before committing to this kit with it's finer detail. This was good practice as the MTK instructions were limited to say the least and I had to work out my own assembly sequence on the hoof for that one, and hence I've been better prepared for the tamper assembly sequence. The parts are cast in pewter and are very good in comparison to the MTK kit. Initial fit is concise and hasn't needed much fettling. Having said that I'm still learning with the white metal soldering. I've not changed from the MTK kit - 25w iron (as it is - no temperature control), plenty of flux, although I've learnt to be more economical with the solder this time. Despite the finer frame detail, the pewter seems to take the heat better and I've not had any accidents with the metal melting into blobs - that was one of my concerns after a couple of gas axe experiences with the more substantial MTK 59 pieces. This shot shows side, base and some fittings. The control panel has been soldered to the cab wall after joining base and side. I've elected to fit 33" kadees so have cut off the mounting blocks for the kit wheels (bit weedy) and have opened up slots in the floor (two visible in the cab base, plus one at back of unit) so that there is no clash (or short circuit). I've drilled out the axle boxes and fitted 2mm brass top hat bearings that I still have from my youth (4mm Airfix and Cambrian kits....long gone). Top hat bearings mustn't exist in the States? Although it did make soldering of the second side interesting trying to hold wheels, bearings and side all at the same time (The kit wheels aren't pin point and therefore can be fitted at a later stage (after painting?)). Rear view with both slots visible for rear wheel set. The internal bulkhead supports a 'hydraulic tank' detail and I had to support and solder this in before I could solder the second side. There is a rebate in the tank which sits against the internal frame and it won't go in afterwards, so I had to keep checking the fit with the second side before I soldered. I'll sort some pictures out of the basic assembly and post these up over the next week or so. Foxy

Some work in progress for the remaining three un-built kits Side on view showing cuts and redundant bulkhead. The left hand section has one less rib - this is the reason for cutting off the bulkhead. I used a razor saw for the initial two cuts, and then used a sharp knife down the redundant rib to remove the bulkhead (and then filed the two pieces until I was happy with the new joint). A vertical view.... First pass gluing together with equally spaced ribs. Internal view. This time I fixed the ballast weight in first, before gluing in the angle reinforcements.......... I'm not sure how clear this picture is? New roof from plasticard. I used 1/4" tube on the first conversion which didn't work as well as I wanted (plus the Details Assoc access hatches have a curved profile to suit their curved roofs so I had problems getting them to sit level). This time I've used 1/8" tube with an M4 washer. I'm pleased with the hole punch off eBay and the new hatches are just slightly bigger than the washer, so I think they will look better than the first model. Two of the models are painted and decal'd, and are ready for assembly (although that will probably take me another 4-6 weeks before they're finished). Foxy

If Ikea is convenient for you then have a look at the Forsa adjustable table lamp? I have one as a replacement to an Ikea halogen predecessor and been very pleased with it. It wasn't expensive either. I have fitted a 6W/470 lumen LED bulb which gives a lot of light and no heat. Foxy

Having worked out a method of assembling the bodysides, I found the roof assembly and cab fronts a bit more straightforward (with further filing and test fitting). I was also quite comfortable with soldering the buffers in place in the same manner as everything else, with plenty of flux, iron in, iron out. So I now have an assembled kit (rather than a completed model) which, as others have pointed out, has given me a great deal of satisfaction to put together. Now there are places on the model where fit isn’t perfect, and I have had some problems. I've had a couple of slips with the iron, which can be rectified without too much difficulty. They have both come about from concentrating on getting the iron into the joint between body and roof and not being fully aware of how the iron was positioned in relation to the rest of the kit. One has cut through the bogie mount that is shown in one piece in an earlier photo above. This one is through the solebar.To be fair I had fewer problems with heat than I anticipated. I certainly didn’t expect to end up with something that actually looks like the photo on the box lid (although others may disagree!). This was one of the first joints I completed. You can obviously see the blob of solder on the joint to the two body pieces. The body and solebar will have been face down and I don’t know whether this has occurred through excess flux running through the joint once heat was applied and this has dragged the solder through to the face? I also wonder if I have used too much solder initially as well? There is also a blob on the fue ltank which I think has come about for the same reason. I’m not sure on whether this problem can be rectified? I’m not keen on bringing the iron into contact with the body side, and I’d imagine that the solder will only spread further into the fluted bodyside? And I can’t see any reasonable way of filing the problem away? Therefore improved technique to avoid the problem in the first place? I found controlling the solder quite difficult in comparison to normal soldering. I used blocks of low melt rather than sticks and found that I had to melt and drip solder into the proposed joint position first. I found this was tricky to do, particularly when dropping it in for joining the roof - this is probably the reason for the heat gouge in the solebar above. I’ve then ‘dragged’ the blob once I put the iron to adjacent flux and then ‘flowed’ the solder as I ran the iron along the fluxed joint. How do I get rid of the excess flux? I’ve washed the model in soapy water using a toothbrush but this doesn’t seem to remove all of the flux? I’m not sure that I’ll take the kit any further (ie to make it more presentable through further filling (solder or body filler) and filing) as it was simply a test exercise, and it doesn’t fit with my HO models. It will probably end up on eBay. However, I have found the experience really satisfying. Foxy

No I've not built the tamper yet. I've got some soldering technique questions to ask first before I commit to it.

Now, not knowing any better, I followed MTK’s instructions. They're basic...... This recommended assembling the 3 piece body side first. As per the very good references, I cleaned the joints, spread flux across them before holding it together with blu-tack. This wasn’t a success. I wasn’t able to get the body straight. However, I did learn that I was able to de-solder the pieces back to three sections without any mishap, although they needed cleaning up with the file. So, I deviated from the instructions at that point, and soldered the body sides to the two piece solebars, and achieve a reasonable/acceptable body side profile. I then put the instructions to one side altogether as they recommended that the two body sides to be joined by the bogie supports. But as I had no dimensions I couldn’t work out whether these were the correct width and so I soldered the bodysides to the fuel tank (which is a fairly consistent shaped piece of metal!), and fixed the bogie support after that. There’s some more to follow with roof assembly, some mishaps and general assembly technique but it won’t be for a week or so (although the finished kit is in another posting alongside a Q Kits 40 if you want to go hunting?). Foxy