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The Fatadder

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  1. The Fatadder
    One job that I have been putting off for some time is improving the awful tepid green that Hornby use to spray their GWR locos, last year I had a first attempt using Simon's clear lacquer on a Hornby grange.  The lacquer had been recomended elsewhere (I think @checkrail first mentioned it), but I have had mixed results.  When it works it is a great product, however a couple of times (the aforementioned Grange and on the tender for my 43xx) the varnish has reacted badly and resulted in a crazy paving effect.   I put this down to either spraying at the wrong tempreture, too much moisture in the air, or not shaking the can enough, so now will only use it in the warm after an extra long shake.
     
    The intention today was to have another go at seeing how much it can improve the tepid Hornby green.  
    Here is my model of 6000 King George V taken not long after I renumbered / rebranded the tender. 

     
    I masked the smokebox, footplate and underframe (along with the cab windows) and gave a coat of the lacquer.   The colour is still not perfect, but I think is a distinct improvement over the out of the box shade. with a little more richness to the colour.   Eventually I still think they will all need to be repainted, however right now I think the loss of colour is made up for in the better quality OEM lining.   The gloss black roof will get a coat of weathered black soon, while the rest of the black areas will get a degree of weathering eventually.  My hope is that once weathered it will take the edge off the remaining annoyance from the colour.    6000 can now  return to test duties on the layout, although at some point soon I really need to get round to fitting a Dingham into the tender as its about time I started testing with the planned couplings fitted!  


  2. The Fatadder
    The con rods etched arrived today from Bill Bedford, and I am now very confused!
     
    I can identify what some of the parts are, but have no idea about many of the other ones (for example the part that I have identified as the con rods, has 8 components. Its very clear which 2 are the top and bottom of each half of the con rod (that would be the parts with half etched detail on them.) but the other 4 bits just look like rectangles that are the length of each component. Is this some kind of test piece that you fit when test running a new loco to make sure it dosnt go wrong and muck up the new rods?
     
    As for assembly, I'm guessing its a simple case of solder them together with the half etched bits on the inside?
     
    Looking at the small components, I think that might be a bit much for my ability at this stage (my lack of knowledge on what bits of a steam loco are what dosnt help)
     
    My thinking is tending towards using the etched parts for the big components (the con rods and the link between them and the cylinder bits) then maybe think about going back to it and changing the other bits once I have a bit more experience at these things...
  3. The Fatadder
    Today I finally picked up one of Ratio's new type 7 GW signal box intended for "Drayott" (I really should come up with a better name, and rename this blog to differentiate from Uglypug's rather excellent sounding Cheddar project.)
     
    So far I have built the core of the structure, the base could have done with a little more support in the centre to hold the floor in place, but other than that the parts pretty much fell together.
    The floor has been put in position on the second photo to ensure the walls are square. it will then be removed to fit the lower windows, post painting the brick.
     
    One disappointing aspect of the kit is the lack of interior, a kit will be purchased shortly to enable it to be finished off!
     
    I have now painted the windows in GW cream, the idea being that I will then cut individual pains of glass from the clear plastic, and flush glaze (thus avoiding the side of the plastic stuck behind the windows getting into the interior.
     
    Hopefully will get the brickwork painted over the next few nights.....
  4. The Fatadder
    Finally a real start on the next chassis, having been thoroughly driven mad by 5512's outside cylinders
     
    The body is nearly finished, just waiting on some etched buffer beams and a few other small details. So it is onto the chassis
     
    This will be my first attempt at a csb chassis, and will also be using the new high level 3mm bearings
     
    I have used the csb jig from high level along with the clag website for the spacings. Typically on marking out the second pivot is over a spacer so a bit of a change is needed tomorrow.
    Next will be marking out what changes are needed to give clearance for the beams
     
    The wheels are an ultrascale drop in set for the Bachmann model, these will need to be modified to reduce the boss thickness by a few mm (it give the added advantage of not needing any spacer washers!)
     
    The avonside jig is now set up ready to go, so tomorrow if I can sort out the csb holes I can get on with soldering up the chassis.
  5. The Fatadder
    Onto part two, the second side followed the same approach as the first, with an awful lot of plastic removed from the side to clear the windows. I have also added a fillet of superglue to reinforce the area above the inset doors to provide additional strength.
    I have also made a start on the roof, although a lot more conversion work is required.
     
    I have one question that I am yet to confirm, at the kitchen end on the corridor side is there a window? I know ther is not a window on the non corridor side.
     
    Despite climbing over the prototype at one of the rmweb Didcot visits I didn’t get good details here
     
    Another detail I would like to confirm is the diameter of the gas tanks, but this will be ok waiting until July and this years Didcot tour
     

  6. The Fatadder
    A chance purchase off ebay of a built Mitchell 43xx kit has arrived this morning.
     
    Took a bit of a risk on this as I had only viewed the photos in small size on my phone due to a lack of internet, thankfully it looks in pretty good condition.
    A little damage in posting (break gear, buffer beam), and a few missing parts (no buffers for a start)
     
     
    The biggest problem appears to be the firebox, which appears slightly higher on one side than the other. short of stripping it down and re fabricating, not sure what else I will be able to do here. Thankfully from most angles its not noticeable so I may well just leave alone.
     
    The bufferbeam has a slight dent in the middle on the front, which should be able to be pressed out. similarly there was a slight dent in the top fairing of the tender (again postal damage) which was quickly rectified.
     
    Chassis wise a quick first check and it looks square, just needs a bit of solder cleaning up that has got a bit close to the hornblocks. The front pony truck has completely ceased however, and needs to be completely stripped down and rebuilt.
     
    Wheels were not included (though there is a set of ultrascale bogie wheels in the pony truck), I will be ordering a set of Gibsons for the drivers / tender asap. Along with a high level gearbox and motor. Looking forward to getting it moving.
     
    Finally I want to give it a new top coat of GWR green, though that wont be until the summer once the move is over and I have my compressor / airbrush up in Newtown.
     
    The big question is which number to model as.
    It appears to be built as a later build loco (does not have the long splasher on the right hand side),
    Its planned to be principally used on the 7.53am Trowbridge - Bristol working, I'm not sure which shed this would have worked off. Bristol or Westbury? Would certainly welcome some advice.
     
    Some photos



  7. The Fatadder

    Loco Building

    By The Fatadder,

    Finally got my internet connection fixed,
     
    Lots of work over the past week, covering locos and wagons...
     
    First up 5813, Had another session with a few more detail bits fitting the smaller hand rails. The toolbox on the left hand side needed moving forward, so I cut off the moulding and then filled the gap with plasticard before scratch building a replacement. After which I gave it a quick coat of white primer. This highlighted a couple of issues, in that a lot of rivets are missing on the buffer beams from the removal of the auto working bits.
    I have drawn up a replacement etch which will hopefully be ran soon.
     
    The chassis for this has also finally arrived, The only thing now is to work out the CSB calculations for it......

     
    Next up 2220, not a lot done to this one, other than fitting a Gibson chimney. I have also replaced the top feed, the original turned brass part being saved for a future project and a replacement cast brass Gibson part used instead (given that this one is going to be green).
    Next up (if we get a dry day at the weekend) I will get it primed...
     

     
    Finally 3863
    The tender has been converted to P4, very easy to convert (but it looks like the centre axle needs to be sprung slightly as it is not always fully in contact with the rail.
     
    Moving onto the loco, the Gibson wheels have been blackened with the Carrs liquid (still not certain with the finish, and a lot more cleaning up needed to get them ready for use.) I now have the all important 3mm pins for my wheel press, so once I have the wheels cleaned up I can get it fitted...
    All the wheels are now fitted with Ultrascale balance weights, really good innovation those!
     
    I have also used the Ultrascale dummy frames, following the instructions from MRJ. So the loco chassis is now ready for wheels
     
    I have also removed the remains of the motion bracket, and will now be copying it into AutoCAD in order to make a replacement part on my etch...

  8. The Fatadder
    Today I have been debating the benefits of lining coaches vs buying a bow pen and painting them on. Working from a photo of the prototype, it was determined that Kingsbridge Branch No 2 was in wartime brown in the late 40s (while No1 was in Hawksworth livery as has already been modelled).
     
    Once again I used the Replica OHLE warning line transfers for the lining, and HMRS for the GWR logos / Guard / First. The lining was completed in lots of small lengths, before varnishing the completed side to keep it all in place. The original glazing was then refitted before putting the body back onto its chassis. There are still gaps between the transfers, (over hinges, door handles and grab rails). My plan is that I will touch in these gaps with orange paint.
     

     
    With the sides "finished", I added the custom Kingsbridge Branch No.2 transfers (Railtec) to the ends.

     
    Still to do:
    Add lining and transfers to the other side
    Replace the glazing with Shawplan Lazerglaze
    Fix the chassis (straight buffer beams, correct battery boxes, vac gear)
    New couplings
     

    Testing on the Kingsbridge Branch.
     

    I have now touched up the gaps in the transfers with orange paint, posed after arrival info Brent
  9. The Fatadder

    Hornby 42xx

    By The Fatadder,

    Since they were released I have rather fancied getting one of the large GW tanks from Hornby, however given the low specification of the model I was rather put off by the £100 price tag.
     
    However having found a damaged (and non painted) model on ebay for a sensible price, I couldn't resist...
     
    First up the problems:
    It needs a new chimney, 3 new steps, a superheater cover, tank vents and of course a set of sprung buffers fitting. There are also a couple of bit of damage to the side which need to be filled.
     
    it will also be getting an Easichas kit from Brassmasters later in the year when they release it.
     
    As for an identity, I am a little undecided for now. It is of course far to heavy for the Strawberry Line, though I think the line through to Kites Croft must have been upgraded during the war to allow heavier trains.....
     
    Thinking about it, a St Blazey based 42xx would be rather nice going into Blackcombe with a rake of GW china clay wagons.......
  10. The Fatadder
    A little more work this afternoon,
    Exams are now finished, so back to work tomorrow (and the long wait for the results in January!)
     
    Today's work has focused around the cab, the new floor was added from black 40 thou and then added a bulkhead on the back of the cab. It now just needs an appropriate back head adding (something else to add to the Gibson order.)

     
    I have also added the 10 thou firebox sides

     
     
    While I had the camera out, I also got this photo of what is currently going through the works

    Starting from the bottom:
    7723
    Collett goods - awaiting the etched parts finishing off, and a chassis build
    Mitchell 43xx, - the body only needs paint, the chassis is just waiting for a set of wheels
    58xx
    4575 I am still trying to get the chassis to work reliably, dodgy crank pins and slightly off quartering is the current issue (I will never touch gibsons that are not ready drilled again!)
    Finally an airfix large prarie, given to me by a friend at school (whos sister had trampled the chassis) The intention is to rebuild it and fit to a Comet chassis. Its something of a long term project, the intention to use it on an excursion rake.
  11. The Fatadder
    I have made a little progress on the Manor chassis.  
     
    Having decided upon an approach, I have set to work modifying the chassis.   1mm needed machining off the top of the front / rear of the extended frame.   
     
    The wheels were then refitted and test fitted into the body.  Matching up with 1470 and a van, the ride height looks spot on now.  
     
    Now the clyinders can be assembled, after which I work out what I am going to do about the hole above the front frames.

  12. The Fatadder

    1364

    By The Fatadder,

    At the weekend’s SWAG members day I couldn’t resist buying a pre production 1361 from Kernow Models. At the time I was rather spoiled for choice, as there were both painted and unpainted options available (all non running). In the end I decided that I have enough painting backlog, and would be best served buying 1364 in post war GW livery.

     
    There are a few areas which will need to be fixed, it is missing coupling hooks, a lamp iron and a hand rail, there are also a couple of areas on the metal chassis which will need the paint touching up. In addition the slide bars need regluing into position, and some slop needs to be taken out of the wheels to improve running.
     
    Then of course eventually it needs to be powered…. After reading about the unpainted versions coming with motors but various wiring faults stopping them running I had hoped I might get lucky, I didn’t. After dismantling the loco retrofitting a motor looks like it will be tricky (and by the time the missing gears have also been added, I suspect expensive. In this case that is completely fine, the loco is intended to be attached to a Newton Abbot – Laira goods as a way of getting 1364 back home after receiving an overhaul and a shiny new coat of GWR green with post war branding. As such the lack of motor actually rather helps in saving me having to correctly consist 1364 with the pannier or 43xx that is hauling the train.

  13. The Fatadder
    Now that the nights are drawing in, and the temperature is falling. Its time to get the soldering iron out again.
     
    Before I make a start on building my Finney Dean Goods, I thought the Falcon Tender for the County would be a good call. (the plan being to follow this with the chassis for the Dapol body.)
     
    So far this project has seen a bit of progress focused on the loco body, the cab has been rebuilt with the Jackson parts and an 8f body has been purchased to supply a new firebox.
     
    So onto the tender, certainly this is the most difficult etched kit I have put together to date (mostly due to the age of the design). But so far Ive been enjoying the build
     
    The first step was soldering up the buffer beams, followed by opening up the holes to accept the sprung buffers. a bit of a tedious job which seemed rather pointless (why only etch a hole a fraction of the diameter of the buffers.)
     

     
    Next up was the valance on the sides, pressing the rivets and laminating the two parts. comparing with photos there appear to be a few rivets missing here, my plan is to add these post completion with Archers transfers

     
    Then the 4 parts were soldered onto the baseplate. To assist with this I knocked up a simple jig to help keep everything square, without acting as a heat sink. This was made from a couple of lengths of sleeper along with 2 metal pins to keep it locked in position. First the headstocks were soldered on, followed by the valances.

     
    Now it was time for the most important job, and the one I had been dreading. Forming the curves on the rear of the tender. These were wrapped around a length of brass rod (iirc it specified 3/8). Once fitted it was almost perfect, needing only fractional adjustment.
    However the tabs which locate it onto the baseplate were far too long (fully visible under the plate). So out with the file, and it was filed down to the thickness of the brass baseplate. Its now ready for soldering.

  14. The Fatadder

    Class 67 Detailing

    By The Fatadder,

    Resurrecting a topic from the old rmweb,
     
    I've just set about making the final changes to my artwork, and hit the email button to send it off. Looking forward to getting it back and finally being able to finish off my fleet!
     
    Having a serious think at the moment about my choice of locos, with the Hornby EWS management train pack looking incredibly tempting. Just wish they would do it without the name (and include a set of etched plates), as really I want it with the original name......
     
    My planned fleet comprises:
    67005 in Royal Train - Detailed Hornby
    67006 in Royal Train - Respray to match the Hornby model.
    66009 in EWS - This will be a complete respray to get the colours right
    66029 in EWS Silver - Detailed Hornby model, with nameplates removed.
     
    Amongst other things listed in more detail on oldRMweb, work includes a complete rebuild of the underframe to correct the bogies, separate components and correct the headstock/front fairing. Lots of etched bits to improve the body, new wheels, sprung buffers (Hornby 60), full lighting and finally the two lima models (what will be come 006 and 009) will be getting replacement motors.
     
    Hopefully the etches wont take too long to come back to me, and all being well they should be available soon....
     



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  16. The Fatadder
    This project is taking a little longer than I had expected, prior to starting this I hadn't really heard of K's and other than a note on Tim Venton's website saying that it needed a lot of work to "bring up to standard" I had no idea what I was letting myself in for.
     
    The parts have needed a lot of preparation, however being plastic that has been nice easy work to remove all the flash. While I was at it I have also removed all of the grab rails and door handles, part to aid painting and part to ensure consistency with the Comet E129 and E147 that are still to come.
    A couple of windows were particually badly affected with flash (in that they were solid!), in these cases rather than spend time opening them out I have modelled the window open. My logic is that given I am modelling the layout in summer, and my research has shown that the summer of '47 was hot (according to this website the summer of 47 was the 6th warmest on record!) My logic is that there would be a number of windows already open as you approach a station with people getting ready to get off, in summer I would assume even more would be open because of the heat (though would people keep them shut to avoid the smoke?)
    I think possibly I may need to revisit the sides and open up a couple more.
     
    In the photo below the bottom side and ends are prepared, while the top side I have yet to start on the windows (but the rest is ready for fitting.)

     
    The next step is going to be fitting a length of brass strip to each side to keep it straight (along with another strip onto the roof.) I will probably also fit the partitions at the same time to ensure there is no gap between the partition wall and the sides.
     
    Once thats finished I need to start thinking about underframes, but before I start buying bits from Comet to work out how I will assemble it, I need to work out the key dimensions.
     
    The other key bit of work is going to be the glazing, for this I think the only serious option is going to be drawing up the windows and having them laser cut. cutting that number by hand would drive me mad, and its way too thick on the sides to go for the intended method of sticking clear plastic behind the sides!
     
    Other random workbench Photos

    A GW van kit
     

    Part converted Bachmann 55xx, at which point I realised I had forgotten the crank pins (and need a 3mm attachment for my wheel press) Once CIMA exams are out the way next month I will get on and order the bits (along with a set of wheels for my High Level Collett Goods). Sadly once thats done, thats the modelling fund spent until I can sell some more stock...
    This getting married lark is rather expensive! (and I thought buying the ring would be the end of it.....)
  17. The Fatadder

    GWR Twin Railcar pt1

    By The Fatadder,

    One of they most important items of stock for Cheddar will be the twin GW railcar no35/36
     
    Working from drawings in MRJ no5, and with a method based on that used by the late Monty Wells (MRJ no6) the aim is to chop 3 Lima models into the twin set (then to build a Comet coach kit for the centre coach).
     
    The first step is the drawings, unfortunatly for some reason MRJ decided to put the drawings for no35/37 and 36/38 across a page joint (no33 and the roofs however were on a single page). This results in some distortion to the published drawings. As such I have spent the train journey from Chester towards Bristol preparing my own set of drawings in CAD based on the GA. I have also drawn an outline drawing of the single railcar for which I intend to add the windows/doors from the Lima model to aid with my cutting plan.
     
    At the moment I have two potential approaches,
    Option 1) cut the sides/roof from the 'spare' railcar to length and glue together. finish my drawing off as an etch and use a set of etched sides on the model. Potentially the roof and sides could be extended with plasticard removing the need for a third base model (and hence mitigating the additional expense of the etches). Holes would be cut in the sides (as per the usual method with brass coach sides) making flush glazing easier. The main prep work would be in adapting the area between cab and end to ensure it accurately matches the Lima model, it would also need adapting to adjust for the body profile, potentially needing a couple of iterations of etches to get this profile correct (with the associated expense)
     
    Option 2 is to follow an adapted version of Monty's method, I would cut the sides from the roof/cab on all 3 models, prepare a new roof section from the third model to extend to the new length (rather than Monty's multiple roof sections I would prefer a single joint).
    The sides would then be chopped to get the windows and doors in the new location, and glued to the roof/cab/plasticard end as a single unit. To ensure rigidity the roof and sides would both be strengthened with metal strip.
    The first task would be to update the drawings to ensure dimensions for length/window&door dimensions to ensure the cutting plan will match up. The cutting for no36 would be pretty complicated, with no35 not that much better (Monty had it easy here by modelling 33!)
     
    I was originally planning to use my first unit as the single car No28, but given it will need a respray to re brand out of shirt button into the later GW livery I dont fancy the respray (and relining). Instead for No28 I think I will go for a Hornby model on which I should be able to remove the shirt button logos using the good old Microsol method. (and keep Hornby's paintwork)
  18. The Fatadder

    County

    By The Fatadder,

    Another one of those random projects which have little use from a layout point of view, other than being an interesting exercise in modelling (which frankly is the most important thing)...
    As with the Saint, I am pretty undecided if I will build it in OO (using the included Romford wheels) or sell them on and buy a set of P4 Gibsons. In this case I am tending toward the latter as it means the chassis can be built to the correct width!
    I also will need to decide if I will make a ridged chassis, for simplicity saving time and money, or go for a full CSB job making it better should I ever decide to run it.
     
    The project:
     
    Dapol Body
    - fit Jackson parts to correct cab front and roof,
    - fit wire hand rails to back of cab
    - detail cab interior
    - replace mud plugs
    - etched plates - trying to decide if I leave it as County of Somerset for which plates were included, or change to County of Gloucester
    - add missing rivet detail
    - replace the firebox and missing lowerboiler with Hornby 8f parts
    Perseverance chassis
     
    Falcon Brass tender.
     
    It is with the latter that I have started looking at today, with the awful instructions not helped by not being able to find the sheet explaining what part is which number, not liking the look of all of those but joints so I have dug out some U section brass which I am going to use to form some brackets supporting the main sections and keeping them square. We are currently expecting, so I wont solder in the house when my fiancée is at home. so hoping to take advantage of her being away for tomorrow afternoon to make a start on the soldering.....
  19. The Fatadder
    Not really managed to get as much modelling done this weekend as I had originally planned, went down with flu last week which really knocked me out so theres a lot of unfinished work on my workbench at the moment.
    That said I am hoping to get on and finish the window frames on my 150 this evening. The etches were painted (blue for the outer frame and black for the rubber surround) then are sanded back to clean any paint off the silver parts. This is taking a lot longer than I would like as i keep sanding off part of the blue paint by mistake....
    Should hopefully get some photos of the completed unit this evening as well...
     
    I have also have brought a dutch Heljan 33/1 from the classifieds, this should be the last loco which is needed for the layout (unless someone brings out a new 73 next year!) My plan is to use it as a basis for a 33/0 (so remove the pipe work & buckeye and replace the cutaway above the coupling. The latter will be modelled with the large dent which is typical for the class. I am trying to decide between either 33030 and 33025. 33030 is rather tempting given the photos of it on a 1997 working of 4 silver bullets, also have found a photo of it working on a railtour with 33116 in early 98. The livery is a lot more tidy than that of 025, so less work is required in the paint shop. The biggest problem I can see with this choice was that it got repainted into EWS in August 98. Finally I came across this photo of it doubled with 116 on a rake of Sea Urchins.
    33025 was chosen because of photos of it working on a freight doubled up with 116, it also has an interesting look to it with the faded paint and the scars from the nameplates etc,
    Looks like doing 33030 will be the one.....
     
    Along with the conversion work on the ends, I will be doing the same paint work as on 116, painting the roof grill & other unpainted parts on the model along with correcting the underframe.
     
    While researching 33030 I came across this photo of 56047working on clay, while its dated much too early for the layout it is rather tempting to either model this (or search further and see if I can find any other similar Class 56 workings). Must admit a transrail dutch liveried loco would be rather tempting! Still, no rush there to get on and buy one...
     
    Finally, the weekend has been spent shopping for a new car (the Bora having got too old and knackered and left me worrying what the next big bill will be.) So I will be taking delivery of a 2006 Alfa Romeo 147 2lt TS Lusso on Thursday or Friday which I am rather looking forward to. God knows if the layout will fit in there though!
     

     
  20. The Fatadder
    Today I have received a pre production pack of Shawplan's new mk3 unit windows intended for use with Bratchell's multiple unit kit range (and Jim SW's etched windows). Deciding to be awkward I have set about fitting them to a Bachmann 150 instead. I have discussed before the advantages in accuracy that Jims etch brings over the Bachmann part, so see my old workbench thread on RMweb3 for more details on that.
    The first thing you notice is how thick the new windows are compared with the Bachmann ones (approximately 4mm compared with 2mm), however once fitted the Shawplan window looks like the thin one, with none of the dodgy edges that RTR windows suffer from.
     
    Fitting:
    The first job is to carefully cut off the Bachmann window frame with a sharp scalple, and then to prepare the new windows. Unfortunately either the Bachmann or Bratchell (I havent worked out which) has incorrect door windows, the Bachmann ones being a fair bit bigger than Bratchels. that means that for the time being you have to reuse the Bachmann door windows (hopefully Brian can be persuaded to do some Bachmann sized windows for it...)
    Upon removal from the fret you are left with 4 fine tabs to file off, and a protective film that needs to be removed from one side. The new window has a tapered edge, so lining this up with the inside of the window with the thick side (that was covered by the film) on the inside. This is then pushed into position until the window is flush with the bodyside.
     
    I then painted up the new frames using Jim SW's etches. The outside half etched section should be painted body colour and the inside of the lower main window should be black (see this photo of Martyn's for a clearer view of this. http://ukrailwaypics.fotopic.net/p6366918.html). Once this is done the window is then sanded back to get rid of any paint thats got onto the full thickness part of the etch. I then use Jon's method for applying the windows, using a masking tape hinge to move back the etch, apply glue, and then push back into position.
     
    The attached image was a bit of a rush job to get something ready for Stafford at the weekend, as such its unpainted still. Even so I think it has made a big difference, correcting the colour of the tint along with getting a better looking window frame.

  21. The Fatadder
    While I have been thinking about how to do the next steps on the tender (thanks again to Mike G for the advice)
    I have been cracking on with the body
     
    First up the Dapol firebox was removed, it had already been cut at the cab end to clear the new cab front, so. Careful cut along the boiler end, along with using a scalpel to score two lines along the splashes.
    Then using the trusty xurons the top was broken. And carefully snapped along the cut line.

     
    Next up a Hornby 8f was dismantled and then hacked up to provide a new firebox. All the lms details have been carved off and filled ready for replacement with gw parts. The photo below sees it test fitted in place .

     
    A little filler will be required to blend the splashed into the bottom of the firebox (given the over width original),
     
    The next job is to add the missing bottom of the boiler, for this I am planning to reuse the bottom of the 8f boiler
     
    Back to the tender, I have soldered in the front and coal scope (both need a lot of cleaning up of my poor soldering). Still really strugelling to get enough heat, so will be ordering a bigger tip rom eilieens ASAP.
     
    Rather than messing around scratch building an accurate coal shoot side, I am thinking of adding a flat top and a scratch built fire iron tunnel, then adding a full load of coal (as per the prototype photo I am working from).
    This will be the main job for the weekend
    I want to crack on and get the body and tender finished before I get tempted to work on the 42xx when the brassmasters bits arrive next week
  22. The Fatadder

    Clan Line

    By The Fatadder,

    Work is continuing to progress at a slow rate, mostly because of a lack of con rods.
     
    Loco:
    The front bogie is now removed awaiting paint, of course this is going to be a long wait as I cant start it until the snow is gone.
    I have added slimmed down sideframes cut from the Hornby trailing truck, having got these fitted the attached photo clearly shows that the truck is not riding level, so some more washers need to be fitted to the mounting screw. It can also be seen that there is a lot of daylight above the truck, so something will need to be added here. I am planning to add the headstock and frame for the cab from plasticard at the same time as adding the loco to tender connector, but until I find a photo or drawing showing the headstock I'm a bit stumped on it. Have found this http://www.semgonline.com/steam/pics/cd_35025_2.jpg photo which shows the frame going between the sideframes on the truck, along with some of the brackets that support the cab.
     
    Moving onto the tender, I have got on with modifying the tender top to correctly represent the modifications made to it in preservation. The air tanks were formed from Evergreen tube with 60thou plasticard ends that were filed to shape & drilled to accept the wire pipes. The housing reused the Hornby part carefully removed from the model (there was a small box on the left hand side that was attached with a lot of glue!) Once it was off the detail was removed, and the end carefully cut out to match the photos. Once this was completed the 3 tanks were then fitted inside, painted and then glued to the model.
    Moving to the back of the tender the two centre tail lights, along with the cabling between them was all carefully carved off. The access door to the compressor compartment was formed from thin plasticard cut to size and glued into position. The water filler that is directly above the location of the compartment on the model was removed, with the resulting hole filled.
    This is one area where I am again a little unsure due to a lack of photos, the first photo I have found shows it prior to the fitting of the doors, this has a cutout above the compressor compartment in the location where the filler cap is on the model. the other photo http://www.semgonline.com/steam/pics/cd35028_7.jpg is not clear on that location, so again I am in need of more photos of the back and top of the tender to work out a) if the cutout is now plated over and B) where the water filler cap has been relocated to.
     
    Finally the tender chassis, all the Masokits parts are prepared ready for soldering, but I am still a little unsure as to if I will use it. before reassembly I want to read the rmweb3 topic describing its construction.
  23. The Fatadder

    Class 73s

    By The Fatadder,

    Given the slight change in focus of the layout, Class 73s are suddenly useful again. The plan is to do a rebuild focusing on the chassis for now, rebuild with Bachmann 25 power, full separate underframe, bogie steps. Will fit the old Shawplan roof grills for now at least, and hope for some better parts.
     
    I have one model thats been fitted with etched grills for the side grills, and needs new cantrail grills to replace broken parts. I would like to replace the lot, and probably will if some decent etches appear...
     
    As for the fleet, I've been trying to work out which locos to model.
     
    73003 (E6003) Sir Herbert Walker in BR Green, prototype was withdrawn in 1996 so its a bit earlier than the period I am modelling, but I will let that slide for now. This will be at the back of the queue for work though and I do have an untouched chassis under it just in case I decide to retire it.
     
    73109, Battle of Britain in South West Trains, will be powered at one end only (no point making a 'thunderbird' loco AWD) this helps make my pile of 25 bits last a bit longer...
     
    73101, Royal Alex in Pullman, along with the other modifications this needs to be renamed from Brighton Evening Argus. Given its lima this will be fun.... Guessing it will need the cream resprayed, so will keep an eye out for a swap for a Hornby body... This is intended to work on my VSOE set, and will hence get a full AWD chassis.
     
    73129, City of Winchester in faded NSE, 1 driven bogie,
     
    Then I have 4 other bodies, 2 dutch and 2 primed.
     
    From these there are 2 liveries I want for certain, at least one in EWS, one in Mainline, and one other.
     
    So I am thinking:
    73128, OSV Buillid in EW&S, had already got the plates for it planning to do it in Dutch so will do nicely in EWS. again this will probably be a 1 bogie job, and will be a full respray. as such it will be one of the later locos to get sprayed (just in case bits appear...)
     
    73131, County of Surrey, in EW&S, again this will be another full respray. Half tempted to do this unpowered to use as a pair for double heading (either for VSOE or TPOs)
     
    73133, Bluebell Railway in Mainline blue, full respray with added detail to ends with WIPACs, 1 power bogie.
     
    Finally 73108 in Dutch, again as per the rest with one power bogie. this will be resprayed (to renumber) and fitted with the chassis/roof detailing.
     
    I have a feeling that I have a finished chassis thats still at Andi's, which may/maynot have another body on it. in which case there is possiblly one more loco to decide on......
     
    Work will hopefully start tomorrow
  24. The Fatadder

    City of Truro to P4

    By The Fatadder,

    Well its finally arrived...


     
     
    At the moment I have the model upside down, and assuming that Bachmann havent gone with some odd axle diameter, it looks like the conversion is going to be very straight forward. The break gear will all have to be removed (and will need to be replaced with brass to get it to fit) but other than that it all looks very easy. Not sure what to do with the cranks (I've never brought outside framed wheels for a kettle before, so I assume they come with cranks in the same way those for an 08 do?)
     
    Will reuse the Bachmann rods, and the Bachmann bogie. For the tender I'm not sure what I will do, I'd prefer to rebuild with some kind of springing, but I suspect that the masokits unit would be visible from the sides...
     
    The spare front bogie is going to be modified to remove the NEM pocket (I really do prefer manufacturers fitting them to be body so they can be removed without damaging detail!)
     
    The buffer beams are going to need to be repainted to the correct (bright) red, rather handy really as I was thing removing the buffer beam number without damaging the lining would be a pain. the post 98 OHLE flashes will be fitted to the sand boxes/cab roof.
     
    I havent decided if I will use Ultrascales or Gibsons for the wheels yet. A couple of years back I had no end of issues with the Gibson wheels in an 09, but the combination of improved standards on my part and on the new owners of Gibson do make me fancy trying again. A lot will depend on whether Gibson can supply the drivers for CoT on a 3mm axle (that I assume that Bachmann have used.) The Ultrascales are significantly more expensive, Nickel Silver (which I really dislike) and have a long wait, and thinking about it will still require the cranks fitting. On the other hand they are much better quality. I just wish that they had done the 20 whatever spoke patten wheel that CoT uses in steel rather than the 16 spokes they have done.......
    I suspect at the end of the day I will go with the Gibsons and if I have any problems then buy a set of Ultrascale's drivers.
     
    An area of concern is the tender wheels, both in that they are currently stub axles with a plastic centre (for the tender pickups) and secondly that they appear (at a glance) to have long axles) Looks like its going to need new pickups making here (a job I absolutely cant stand) but pickup on 2 axles just wont be enough so most annoyingly will have to do something about it.
    Also on the tender, the break gear is very very odd, appearing to be in line with the axleboxes rather than where the wheels should be. While this is an improvement on having them too narrow (like those on the driving wheels), it does seem a bit odd.
     
    I'm not at all happy with the etched number plate, given that its missing the very prominent orange lining and tbh dosnt look as good as the printed one. will either need a transfer for the lining or to find a better etch!
     
    The gap between body and chassis is much too big, so something will have to be done about that! Rather handy that slider to reduce the gap, now thinking that some sprung buffers between body and tender would be useful.
     
    Finally a question, Would the water scoop on the tender still be there in its current condition? Is there anything else that needs removing or adding to get to current condition on the mainline.
     
    EDIT:
    Have finally got round to doing the measurements on the axles. Drivers are 3mm diameter, tender wheels are a bit more tricky. 2mm axles, but on 27mm stub axles, could be interesting for the conversion.......
  25. The Fatadder

    Vi Trains 47 to P4

    By The Fatadder,

    So I have finally given in and brought a Vi Trains class 47:
     
    Going to need a fair bit of work still (need to carefully sand down the intercity logo & stripes then prime and spray the sides/ends GWT Green. I think it also needs to have the marker lights at one end changing to match my chosen prototype. 47813 SS Great Britain in Great Western Trains green. What I am planning to do is mask off the roof/yellow to spray the green (hopefully at the weekend weather permitting), then respray the yellow (after filling in the random hole to the right of the High Intensity headlight.
     
    I've spent some time today fitting all of the details (which I probably shouldnt have done), my original intention was just to fit the details and then sell on the model to fund buying one with the buffer beam cowling (ie something thats actually needed) but instead I am thinking that I will sell my Heljan 47830 in GWT and replace it with this model of 813...
     
    Other than the lamp irons on the buffers (which just refused to stick) everything came together pretty well. Unfortunately the break gear was broken on arrival so going to need to contact Vi Trains to try and get a replacement....
     
    Once all the body stuff (bar the painting of course) had been finished I moved onto the chassis, Given Vi Trains pickup design P4 conversion looked like it would be a little tricky, but after some careful bending of the pickup wires I think its ok. Had a problem originally where the pickups were both touching the axle...
    It was rewheeled with Keen Maygib 14.5mm coach wheels and the Vi Trains gears using the usual method, the gears were a little loose on the axle so were secured with locktight. For a bit of added safety the axle was wrapped in electrical tape near to the pickups to prevent shorts.
    Very Very impressed with the chassis design, had not realised that it had a sprung centre axle!
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