robertc

Another trial assembly last night.

Roof detail ,reversing rod and rear sandboxes were the latest bits added.

Chris, you are right some might have worried that bits were missing.

cheers

Bob

Name ??? ,the coupling rods I started with were made out of C124 rail before I realised the ones fitted to the 19 class were not fluted.

The ones now shown are made from pc board strips sold for making O gauge points. I filed the shape after  drilling the holes using one of the rail siderods as a guide.

  I initially drilled the rail rods  as a pair, temporarily tack soldered together, then using that as a guide I drilled the starting holes in the frames.

In HO I used Peco C100 rail in a similar manner after filing the foot down both sides.

When using rail section you can solder some blobs on in the appropriate places and file them to  more closely get the shape around the crank pins.

cheers

 Bob

The wheels turned  for the first time today under power.

Got to finish the siderods and install the bushes.

Someone got themselves a very cheap 50 class kit on feebay.

cheers

 Bob

Thanks Chris, that name rings a bell but my memory is getting very patchy these days.

regards

 Bob

Thanks Chris, I have an old Soundtraxx  EMD that gets to be the test donkey in several scales. for models from the General  :>)

A shed in the middle of an outdoor loop I think is worthy of consideration.

cheers

 Bob

The boiler now a bit lighter  :>)

Sadly, judging by the sales on feebay this last week, we must have lost a keen NSWGR 7mm modeller recently.

Not many of us to start with.

cheers

 Bob

That mounting works if you are using a gearbox, I am not Martin.

The problem would normally be poor pickup with the loco or short recovery with some systems.

Easily solved by turning off dc recognition and ensuring the electrical path from wheel treads to decoder is as it should be.

cheers

Bob

Well, go to AMRA and complain they are pandering to the US 3-rail toy buyers and not their own modellers Marty.

I'm too far away and subject to the elements to be of any use to Sydneysiders.

cheers

 Bob

Going to give it a go without a gearbox to start, mainly because the cupboard is bare at the moment. :>)

I had thoughts of mass producing my own but haven't got around to that yet!

Because I took so long to decide where the motor was to be located I paid the penalty yesterday, having to very carefully remove parts of the boiler tube and firebox.  The 1833 just fits but will protrude into the cab.

cheers

 Bob

Nice to hear a bit of sound sometimes. What decoder did you use?

cheers

 Bob

The 59's came with red lining and typical fancy US numbering Martin.

cheers

 Bob

Wow, you have been busy Chris. looks good, well done!

I would estimate it would take me a year to solder one of these up given how much I hate metal work.

Much nicer than the Fox version too :>)

cheers

Bob

Marty, it is sometimes useful to look for an item being sold on feebay. They always come with a photo or two.

Some electrical work on the tender today. Only the outer wheels will be used for a start.

cheers

 Bob

Hi Chris, they will turn up once the new ones have arrived. Glenn told me he is keeping some Slaters items that are not yet on the MOK website so might worth a call there first.

Getting visitors again so work output is slowed.  :>)  or that's my excuse!

cheers

 Bob

What axle box and spring castings did you use? Slaters MR?

Slaters 7080 Martin

Just tendering this update!

cheers

 Bob

A bit of piping going on today. 

Well, it is Celtic country up here.  !  :>)

cheers

 Bob

Hi Chris, wondered where you had got to.

I thought you had moved off to G1   :>)

Glad to hear you had a good trip away.

Marty, the smoke box front is a piece of 20 thou cut to the outline. You can use a copy of the drawing glued on temporarily with PVA to cut the shape out.

Note: the old copy of the Data Sheet I have has a different frontal view to the side view, suspect frontal view is early boiler ( guess how I found that out?) so I drew it up myself.

Another bottom half can also be cut out for the rear, although I didn't do it here.... just some off-cuts and filler.

The wrapper is 20 thou partly pre-bent to shape by hand. Make it slightly long and then cut back to size when joints are dry.

You could impress the rivets in the wrapper with a pounce wheel before assembly.

I have some decal rivets on hand so I intend to use them for this job.

The front smoke box rivets will be done with either epoxy or acrylic KwikGrip dots.

The smoke box door is 40 thou cut out using both points on my old school centre wheel compass (springbow)  as a cutter. I don't go all the way through but use the score and snap method with radial cuts to do it in sections.

The dished front is done by hand with files and is mainly confined to the edges. Too unpleasant in the garage at the moment to set up the lathe. :>)

The operating lever is the older version and is probably incorrect for this late a model but I just wanted to see how it would look if I built one. It is just a small washer with a short HO handrail knob and some phone wire .

To do a modern one I would just use a small circle of 20 thou with a length of rod glued on the back  and mounted slightly proud with some styrene at the rear as a spacer.

cheers

Bob

Only one way to find out Martin!    :>)

Hint ..... build the chassis first, then make the body to fit.

A bit more done today

cheers

Bob

A few more bits under way.

cheers

 Bob

Thanks, but I already have the dome and stack.

A friend had some 32mm electrical conduit on hand so the boiler issue is solved too.

cheers

 Bob

Why not draw up something curved that fits diagonally in the room?

cheers

 Bob

Haven't got around to looking for boiler pipe yet but 32mm is a common pressure pipe size and would be only slightly larger than scale.

When I looked the other day both the 19 and 30 tank were out of stock.

I probably would have passed them over as I prefer to do as much as possible myself or buy RTR. I am not much of a kit man.

cheers

 Bob

It won't pay to be in too much of a hurry with this one Marty.  I am getting slower at building these days. But if you have a chimney and dome and maybe a headlight the hardest parts are already done. The chassis is my usual 1.5mm styrene and once again I will omit the brass bearings and just run the axles in the plastic as do many commercial models.

No kits available at the moment so it is this or nothing.

cheers

 Bob