F2Andy

There is a substation where the Bolton line diverges from the WCML at Euxton Junk with a fence of the roof. The fence runs across the top, diving it into two unequal parts. I am curious what it is for. I guess the substation is sited at the join of two electrical sections, and the fence divides them? But I do not get why. It is not very accessible, but you can just about see it in this view, Here is a aerial view and you can just see the line of the fence.

I have purchased an M7 on Ebay, on the basis that the terrier should be available for years to come. I did say I was not so much interested in the track design, but I had a quick play, and thought I might as well post it. This is something by way of a side project for the future, post-retirement, so do not expect to see anything on here for some years...

Just to re-iterate, I am looking really for tank engines ( guess I was not clear on that in the OP). Do Union Mills do any tank engines? The M7 and O2 are good - nice looking locos too, but both have availability issues, but definitely potential there. Thanks.

Not sure if this is quite the forum, as I am not asking about a trackplan, but it is layout planning, so fingers crossed... Following a recent holiday in the New Forest, and am considering the possibility of a small layout inspired by Lymington, probably U-shaped, with a quay, set between the wars. This would be N gauge, and I am wondering what stock is available, preferable RTR. I can see a terrier, but no other tank engines (I do not envisage a turntable). The only coaching stock I have found is corridor, which is probably not appropriate. I would consider an EMU if there was one that was right, but I must admit I am not sure what that would be (the Lymington branch was the last steam hauled line, so probably none are right). I suppose at a push I could head westward and do the usual panniers and praires...

I have used N-Train for a 1938, and would recommend them too. Struggling to find a suitable chassis though (the recommended one seems to no longer be available).

Thanks. I would have guessed it was darker than bus red, but I will see how that goes.

Hi, I have purchased a 3D printed kit of 1938 stock in N gauge, but I am not sure what colour it should be for ca. 1980. I know it is red, but what shade? I am partially colour blind, so would appreciate any advice. Also, the roof colour. And if anyone knows of any suitable transfers that would be great too!

I had not thought about adjusting the servos, and was not aware of the issue with long wires. Good points. With regards to the relay, would something like this do? https://cpc.farnell.com/coto-technology/9007-05-00/relay-reed-sip-spst-5vdc/dp/SW04891?st=relay I will not be at Warley, unfortunately. I did talk to the MERG people at Wigan; that is a possibility.

I am considering controlling points with an Arduino, using servos. This would be for a four or five track fiddle yard, with three or four sets of points at each end. Each set of points at the left end will have a matching set of points at the right end operating in concert - can they both be connected to one output on the Arduino? I think they can be powered separately, so I guess if I do it that way, I could have several servos on one output, but can two be powered directly from the Arduino? This would be for DC, so I would also want to switch power depending on how the points are set. What is the best way to do that? I.e., what hardware do I need? Control would be by a set of four or five push buttons, one per track, which should be straightforward. I was also thinking of adding an OLED screen to show the currently selected track. Is the Raspberry Pi with PWM a better alternative? I have some programming experience, so the coding is not an issue, by the way.

I too remember going past it on Whippendell Road as a kid, but never paid it any attention at the time, and moved away from the area in the later eighties. I had found disused stations; it is great for the station, but not much else. The sun printers history has some interesting photos though. Looks like the pipebridge could be air extracted from the print rooms, going to solvent recovery.

I am modelling the line to Croxley Green in N gauge, from a little way east of the Ascot Road bridge to Croxley Green station, set in about 1980. Around Ascot Road there was Sun Printers, and I want to include a small representation of the factory. However, I am struggling to find any useful photos. I wondered if anyone could help? I have found this, which indicates a pipebridge from the printers across the railway. Was the factory both sides of the railway? And what is the overbridge? https://www.westwatfordhistorygroup.org/apps/photos/photo?photoid=130260792 And this from 1963, which put the site east of Ascot Road, though the clocktower, the only bit still standing, is on the west side. http://www.newsteelconstruction.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/501Oct1.jpg

Thanks for the replies. Peter, I have seen a layout with joining sections as you describe being set up at an exhibition. That has to be worth investigating. Nick, I am thinking of pattern-makers dowel specifically where the track is - which would just be two places per join for us. I am very impressed by how well you have hidden the join there; something to aspire to there.

I am involved in the design (so far) or a club layout, which will be 4'x16', in N gauge, with four circuits, which can be split into 2'x4' boards for transport to exhibitions. One plan is to split them so we have a double track on one level, and a second double track perhaps 5" above (but level track all way around). However there is concern that the track will be very difficult to align when assembling at exhibitions because of the split levels. Does anyone had any relevant experience or advice?

Thanks for the replies. Yes it was definitely the RHTT. I had not realised the Marylebone-Birmingham service was loco hauled, and the livery was very different to that of the Chiltern Railways DMUs. Is it a push-pull?

I was at Rickmansworth earlier today, around 1030, and as I arrived there was a freight train (or PW train?) passing through heading south; about 10 tank wagons with a class 66 on either end. Can anyone tell me what it was? Later I was a loco-hauled passenger train, possibly in cross country livery, heading north on the Chiltern line south of Harrow. Again I am wondering what this is. I used to live in Ricky, and regularly used the Met in the eighties and never saw anything loco-hauled back then, so it was quite a surprise to see these two, Utterly unrelated, why do underground trains not have yellow fronts, when all mainline locos and multiple units have had to since the early sixties?

How about something like this (link from one of the sticky threads)? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTC-SLA-3D-printer-Stereolithography-SLA-Factory-direct-low-price-UK-stock-/322512520547?hash=item4b173e8563:g:htMAAOSwdjNZCER3

Okay, transparent was just an idea, so I will abandon that. From what you say I get the impression the resolution is only part of the question, and the quality depends on other factors too, is that right?

I appreciate that is one approach. I was guessing people around here had printers themselvers and could give advice on the hardware.

I am thinking abut the possibilities of 3D printing now the price of printers has come down, but are the cheap ones good enough? My first project would be a body for an N gauge EMU. With that in mind, is a resolution of 0.1 mm good enough? What is the best material to use? Is it worth (or even possible) to use a transparent material so the windows are built in? Anything other factors I need to be aware of? Any recommended printers?

I am thinking about using static grass myself soon, and I am starting to think about how to do it. Interesting to read about conductive glue; I had wondered about that, and thought about adding salt. Has anyone tried that? Does it have a detrimental effect on the glue? Do you leave a patch of grass to dry with the applicator still connected so the glue dries wth the grass upright? What does the applicator actually do? Sure, it sprinkles the grass, but do you really need in anywhere near by? The effect (I guess) comes down to repulsive forces between each thread making them stand on end (like hair standing on end with a static charge). As long as the threads fall end first, all should be well, I would have thought. Or is the trick in the way they fall?