ian@stenochs

When we completely repainted Efficient (AB1598/18) c.1969/70 we copied the original livery as closely as possible.  IIRC the shade was 'Holly Green' and, as can be seen in the photo below was lined in white either side of a broad black line. Could this be the standard Barclay livery?  My fireman is demonstrating the 'sitting on the bunker top with feet on the cab back sheet' relaxation technique.

Ray

.Will Naylor and self crewing Efficient.jpg

 

When Dalmellington Iron Co no 16 was being restored at Dunaskin we also found the original dark green underneath. The frames were the same colour but the lining is a straw/yellow not white and black.

 

Ian.

Hi

 

It is best to do the spectacles before erecting the cab This is a method which works.

 

For spectacle surrounds, of any shape, cut out or file two pieces of thin brass to the shape of the outside of the frame. Solder two pieces of brass together before shaping, 4 if it’s a tank loco cab and the back is the same as the front, and they will all be the same. Solder to the cab front in the correct place and drill through. Saw, file etc to give the inside shape. If the spectacle is round and you can find a bit of brass tube the correct diameter just cut a slice and solder in place. File to the correct thickness and open out the centre.

 

Ian.

 

I find that these two cover all my needs.

 

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The only hard bit is getting into tight corners.

On the other hand, my wrist strength has improved mightily.

 

Regards

 

Ian

I built my first loco kit, Jamieson 0-4-4t, using an iron just like those. I worked in the kitchen and the iron was heated in the Rayburn stove. Nowadays I have an ersa soldering station.

 

The mistake most soldering beginners make is not having a big enough heat. For successful soldering the iron has to heat the joint to soldering temperature quickly so for 7mm brass kits go for something rated 40 watts or more.

 

Ian

I should add that if you are getting close to your model and have a lot of hair dust can descend from your mop! One advantage of being bald but otherwise wear a net or mop cap. How we suffer for our art!

 

Ian

Make the dust settle in your painting room and keep it there while you paint!

 

Before I had a dedicated painting booth I used the kitchen which had no fluffy curtains or carpets only hard surfaces. It was also quite small and easy to heat.

 

Boil a kettle or pan of water and let the room get a bit steamy. Let the steam condense out on the work surfaces where it traps any airborne dust. Keep the doors shut to stop more blowing in. Wear fluff free clothing, cotton shirt etc, NO woolly jumpers!

 

When the air is clear paint your model and place it under a shoe box immediately until dry.

 

Best done when other half is out!

 

Ian.

Sorry, but you will have problems getting pictures. Riverside is working more as a crèche than a museum.

The stuff is crammed in and last time I was there there were displays all along one side of 123 with the other side partly concealed, everything below running plate, by the walk way! Don’t get me started on G&SW No9 which is poked out of a rat hole way up on the wall!

If you want to measure anything make sure you get permission from one of the attendants, some are very helpful and welcome a distraction while others can be worse than Russian border guards! Just what harm will a tape measure do?

Ian.

Hi Chris,

 

At the moment I have a request lodged with Glasgow University re Barclay drawings.

 

In have had an acknowledgement that has stated it could take up to 20 working days to answer my enquiry.

 

Gordon A

Hi,

 

I have been to Glasgow to inspect the drawings on a number of occasions. I can tell you that the experience can be very rewarding but it can also be extremely frustrating!

 

There is a catalogue giving details of works numbers and basic info, ie 0-4-0t etc. There is usually a list of drawings available for each loco but these are only very sketchily detailed and quite often don’t give you a real idea of what there is to see. What you have to remember with Barclays is that they built a lot of ‘standard’ locos which shared dimensions and common components but individual locos may have been altered to suit the purchaser. You frequently find that there is a cross reference to a previous build for a GA or detail drawing so it helps if you have researched your prototype before you go and know which locos were similar.

 

When you request a drawing you get the set for the loco. These come as flat drawings in a plastic folder and some are very big and some are fragile too. It takes time to go through the stack and often you find things that have nothing to do with the particular loco but the archivist is very pleased if you find something out of place and you can help them put it with the correct batch. The Archivists are mostly young ladies and have only a sketchy knowledge of locomotive engineering so don’t expect them to recognise a cross head or clack valve unless it is written on the drawing!

 

My last visit was to look for details of a loco in preservation which needed new parts made and we wanted the original drawing rather than try to copy the well worn original part. It took a whole day and I never found the drawing needed. However I did find other drawings of interest which I was permitted to take a digital photo of.

 

If you do go it is best to request something to see beforehand and it will be ready for you to view. I always go in the morning and have always asked for additional drawings depending on what I found in my first selection. They are usually happy to help but you need to let them have time to locate the drawings. I go for lunch and return after about an hour and a half. There is an excellent Glasgow Pub, the Three Judges, at the cross roads at the bottom of Byers Road, about 5 minutes walk with 8 real ales on handpull. It’s very handy for the subway, Kelvin Hall station, if you want back into the city centre.

 

Ian.

A couple more shots. I hope I have explained the process well enough.

Now all I have to is remove the old door and fit this one.

The diamond pattern on the plasticard are the teeth marks from the vice. You can see where I have squeezed mainly at the bottom of the door.

 

Mike,

 

I have done something similar but used brass sheet which draws better than the nickel silver.  However for what you needed here, just a subtle amount of curvature, the NS is the best material.  It is also easier to solder the hinges onto NS than brass.

 

Nice Work., Correction, Very Nice Work!

 

Ian.

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After finding out a Hornby J15 is a very close match to Smellie/Manson 0-6-0s this came about.  It actually works pretty well!

 

 

Years ago I used the Skinley drawing for my P4 model of the 306 class.  Still got it and a recent photo attached below. The lettering on 306 was from Leteraset rub down transfers and hand coloured and shaded. For 323 I used the decals available from the G&SWRA. 

Since then I have built another in 7mm scale but this time I had sight of a GA.  The Skinley one is not not too bad for accuracy and they were the only drawings available in the 70s.   Probably the most significant feature on a locomotive is the Chimney.  The Manson one was quite distinct.

Ian

Difficult question: such things are not common, they can be patchy - varying according to the interests of the author/photographer/publisher and they tend to pre-date such things as ISBN.

Jack Kite, now long gone to the platform in the sky, did an album or two, called something like Vintage Album. It does seem to turn up from time to time.

There are also vendors of photos, who attend shows have an eBay presence, or their own websites, e.g. Roger Carpenter at shows, railwaystationphographs.co.uk, who are migrating away from eBay (redgate8) due to eBay’s hike in fees. Usual disclaimers apply!

Jack Kites books, I have two, are excellent with most pre group companies covered. He had an eclectic taste in railways. However most views are late Victirian or Edwardian period as are most photos available from the collections from which prints are sold. Remember photography was new and expensive in the period we are discussing here.

 

Worth trying the relevant line Societies for back copies of their journals as they often publish useful views. They also have experts who can help with specific questions but make sure you don’t ask for too much and you are prepared to give them something in return, at least a stamped envelope if you write or an offer to pay costs if you e mail. Virtually all are volunteers with busy lives too.

 

Ian.

Nothing from the GWR yet? What, must put that right. Here’s something different, a 7mm. model of the first standard gauge shunting engine. Two were built as 0-4-2ST, in 1857 by Beyer Peacock, Works no’s 50/1, GWR 91/2, and employed around Chester. Twenty years later, they were rebuilt at Saltley, using the best bits to make one engine, no.92, which a year later lost the trailing wheelset. It was usually helping in the Wrexham coalfield. Wolverhampton works took it in 1893, turning it out looking like a short 850 tank, which is how I’ve modelled it, in the old Wolverhampton paint scheme. The cab entrance is on the other side, incidentally. It worked around Wrexham for some time then, but was seen at Severn Tunnel Junction in 1936, and at Radyr in 1938. In 1939 it went to Wellington, Salop, and was withdrawn in 1942, at 84years old, although the boiler lasted there for some years after raising steam.5743FB14-DB0B-49C2-BFF1-AE134C815C71.jpeg

Northroader,

 

While my post above didn’t include anything GWR it did have a loco which worked on the GWR! G&SWR No 168 was one of 7 locos from the Sou’West which was loaned to the GWR during the first war. It worked from Old Oak Common and replaced Dean Goods which had been requisitioned by the WD for use in France.

 

I like your pug too,

 

Ian.

A while ago now I put together a sheet of various tests for coach side colours, and I'd basically like to ask if there are any howlers in there, or anything really major I've missed out. Please note I'm still working out how to do liveries based on various varnished woods (Teak, Mahogany, etc...)

Sample.png

 

I might try and put one together for loco liveries.

Hi,

 

Some nice panels but can I make a correction

 

Glasgow & South Western Railway was G&SWR not as you have it. Waist panels on coaching stock had semicircular ends and upper panels had curved corners at the top but square on the bottom. There were a few coaches where the upper panels were curved top and bottom but they were ex M&GSW Joint stock of Midland design. There was a fine crimson line 1/8” between the straw and the black lining but your drawing is probably too small to show that up. I don’t even attempt it in 7mm scale! The Garter Crest was not used on coaching stock other than on the internal linoleum and carpets.

 

The G&SWR NEVER missed out the ampersand on correspondence, advertising or on rolling stock and never used GSWR which is a sloppy abbreviation which causes confusion with the GS&WR, an Irish Railway.

 

Ian

I have built an 0-4-4t and a 4-4-0t both using a very simple and highly effective method. I carry the weight of the loco on the bogie pivot and, in the case of the 4-4-0, the rear driving axle, which just runs in plain bearings. The leading driving axle is given a small amount of up and down movement, just half a mm either side of centre. That axle can be lightly sprung to hold it down on the track for pick up purposes with a simple wire or strip spring. I don't use hornblocks and axleboxes, I just make a slot out of either thick material with a 1/8th slot, or I use two bits of brass angle soldered to the frames.

Any weight added behind the bogie pivot puts some on the driving wheel and a loco built like that has hauled 10 brass 4 wheeled carriages with ease.

I use the same system in S7 for 0-4-4Ts. However to minimise rear buffer throw I support the loco rear end on the bogie centre but pivot the bogie just in front of the inner axle. The bogie is three point suspended with the rigid axle at the front and the other axle pivoted at its midpoint. Because the sprung driven axle is within the tanks plenty of sideplay can be given to the wheels without compromising looks.

 

I haven’t used the system on 4-4-0s because the inside motion tends to get in the way!

 

Ian.

Nicely done. There are G&SW transfers on the HMRS Scottish Pre-Grouping wagon sheet. If you're willing to venture into no-man's land under a flag of truce, you might find a Caley entusiast with whom you could trade halves of the sheet!

 

If you will excuse a bit of Midland pedantry, Midland wagons may have had black ironwork in the early  1870s and earlier but would be all-over grey by the date of these wagons - apart from the running gear of course.

These Kirk wagons are pretty good when you consider when the kits were made and what was available at the time. They were easy kits for the maker too having opening doors at both ends, only needing mouldings for 1 side and 1 end! The G&SW was one of the lines which was very careful and only permitted a few private owners to run their own wagons. It controlled the condition of the vehicles running and could charge demurrage if the user was too slow in emptying them! When they were repainting wagons the G&SWR tended to forget the black ironwork on the bodies and just painted everything grey!

 

Ian.

A bit of SECR in N:

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N! N! The lining is tremendous. Are you sure it’s N?

Stewart, what oil ( (if any) do you use on it, or do you use water?

When I was taught how to sharpen chisels on an oil stone the instructor, a joiner of the old school, maintained that spermwhale oil gave the keenest edge. He also used to remove the ‘beard’ on the edge of his hand, same principle as stropping on a strip of leather but always to hand!

 

Ian.

 

I just noticed that I use a banned word,

I can't get supplies of new scalpel blades where I am, so I usually sharpen mine on a 1960s vintage Norton India Oilstone I inherited. They are still available, but they now come from the US, instead of being "Made in England", and cost a small fortune.

 

The sharpened blades are good enough for card and styrene sheet, but if I need to cut paper it is better to start with a new blade.

 

David

I sharpen my scalpel blades on a Tam o Shanter ‘ Water of Ayr’ stone with a bit of water, or spit, to lubricate.

These stones were highly prized worldwide for sharpening surgical instruments but the mine and hone mill closed many years ago. I got mine from my Grandfather. My maternal Grandmother also worked in the hone mill when she was a young woman.

 

Ian.

Suppose Drummond did a 2-6-0 inside-cylinder Mogul based on his 700 Class 0-6-0? What do you think?

Drummond, Peter that is, did build an inside cylindered superheated 2-6-0 and very handsome and efficient it was too!

 

Ian.

Hi all,

 

Long time, no post. As expected other commitments got in the way, lots of time spent on the roller and working on the half size Burrell. 

 

That said, this project has not been ideal, i've been working on a few things in and out and i've picked up the pace again the last few days. Recent progress including a nearly finished crankshaft, bearing brackets and some other bits and bobs.

 

On to the photos, i've put a caption with each to explain more what's going on in it. 

 

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First up, these 2 photos are of the gear side crankshaft bearing bracket, a fairly complex piece, wouldn't want to have to scratch build it i must say! The print turned out remarkably clean, i have been playing with a lot of settings to achieve cleaner prints, it's starting to pay off! 

 

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This picture shows the flywheel side crankshaft bearing bracket, very different to the gear side one! Both the bracket and the cap were printed in 2 pieces. I haven't made the bearings for either of these brackets yet as i want to make sure i get them right (and i have other stuff i want to work on with it!). This bracket is pushed on to the hornplate as it will be when assembled. The hornplates unfortunately need re making, but this will have to wait until i source a replacement print bed, or i will have to machine one. 

 

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This image shows the weighshaft bracket. I included this picture as it shows exactly how it came off of the print bed, in two pieces due to the complexity and overhangs. With some tidying up, sanding and most importantly some glue, it should look the part soon enough. 

 

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These final two photos i have left until last as they are the real interesting ones, the part i am most proud of currently, the crank shaft! This is made up of 5 sections of turned stainless steel and some 3D printed webs. The splines are also 3D printed and will be glued into the end. The gears are a very nice sliding fit on the splines so my plan to make the gear change mechanism work as per the real engine should be easily doable! Couple things to alter but nothing too serious.

 

Along with all this, i've done some sanding, filling, priming and painting on the chimney and some other parts. I am now starting to get back into the project a bit so i'd like to think i can get some stuff done over the holidays!

 

As always, thanks for reading.

 

Cheers, Josh.

I have just come across this thread. Very interesting and nostalgic. It takes me back to the 80s when I built a live steam 1/4 size Burrell. I had a lot of fun machining castings and fabricating parts and it gave me, and others, a lot of pleasure running it. I still have it, she got a repaint last year, but we haven’t steamed her for a while.

 

Ian.

Self abuse with a barbed wire glove is better than daytime tv.

 

Fair makes your eyes water too!

I have been fitting the motor and looking at how and where to fit pickups. As it stands, the leading axle can rock on the end of a screw, the driving axle is rigid in the frames and the rear axle is free to move up and down in the hornguides.

 

The plan is to use the pickups on the rear wheels as springs; not to take weight but simply to lightly press on the wheels to keep them in contact with the rails. I have no experience of building engines with wheels that are not driven, so the question is will the pressure of the pickups stop the wheels from turning as there is no weight on them at all?

Getting single driver locos to pull anything much is tricky and balance is all important but any weight carried on the carrying wheels is not aiding adhesion.

 

I built a single wheeler, 4-2-2, with a trailing wheel which carries no weight but had pickups bearing on the tread to do as you intend. Even with the pressure reduced as much as I could the wheels did not rotate reliably which looked really bad. The solution I came up with was split axles and pickup through the axleboxes. Now just the weight of the wheels is enough to keep them turning and picking up current.

 

My example is in 7 mm scale and I used the Slaters insulated axleboxes. I don’t know if a similar product is available in 4 mm but you could fabricate an insulated box using brass tube and bit of square plastic ‘Plastruct’ tube,

 

Ian

It's looking more like a locomotive now.

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Looking very good but one wonders what use the spectacle plate will be behind that massive, relative term, saddle tank! I have a lot of respect for the footplate crews of old who must have been hardy men to withstand the weather. No wonder lives were short for the majority.

 

Ian.