mike47j

perhaps 85, firebox casting is really the ash pan ?

page 20, post 491 has my list of the contents of each issue.

Cab roof is issue 16.

Yes, even the valve gear etchings. I did not do those and had to get them very hot melt off the lacquer when laminating the connecting rods. Still not completed mine.

It's just electrical wire which they show being connected to the tags on the Slaters pickups, giving the length for each bit of wire. Lots of details about how to assemble the pickups, so I think the instruction writer expected the pickups to be provided.

It's a bit strange that they supply the wire, and the motor but not the pickups. And no mention when explaining how to fit them in issue 129 of where to get them, or who makes them.

My last 3 parts arrived today. Now I'll have to find out which bits I've done, which I thought I'd do later, and which parts I've lost.

I have a slightly tight crossover on my small layout, I don't know the radius but its less than 6ft. The pony truck needs a little more side play and possibly a heavier spring, but the main issue seems to be the loco to tender coupling which needs a lot more side play.

The list on page 20 is up to 123. It will be another couple of weeks before I get 124 to 127.

The expansion link castings were in 117, the return crank rods or eccentric rods came in 118 and 119 and were attached to the bottom of the expansion links. Then all the bits are put away to paint the wheels.

Issue 117 says drill 2mm holes, the end of my crankpins are about 1.8mm so they are going too be a loose fit. Issue 119 step 8 says fit at the correct angle to check the connecting rod does not foul the expansion link, without saying what the correct angle is.

The return crank looks as if it will be glued on after painting. Since I already have the Premier coupling rods, and filled the hole in the connecting rod, I think I'll use the Derek Mundy 10BA threaded crankpins, and solder a 10BA screw into the return crank.

I got some Slaters driving wheels at the Reading show, the replacement wheels had too much wobble and would not stay in gauge. I have the premier coupling rods, but not the jointed ones, and not the rest of the motion. I'm not sure which crank pins to use on the middle drivers, I don't like the 3mm diameter ones supplied by Hachette. I think I prefer to get a kit all in one box and complete each major part before moving to the next, rather than the random sequence we have with this.

I have up to issue 115. Which issues you have depends on when you started your subscription and I was a few weeks late. I've updated the list on page 20, post #491.

I must admit that my enthusiasm for this build has decreased with the disappointment of the plastic tender and wobbly driving wheels. I've got 2 set of the wheels but I might buy some Slaters wheels at Reading next week. Must make a shopping list.

Just recieved the plastic tender body sides in part 88. I assume the sides are supposed to be flat, mine have a couple of dimples on each side near the front. Also the back has a slight ripple effect. Also its not very square, and pulling it square just curves the back. Running a ruler over the sides is not a good idea as they are not flat. I'm more than a little disappointed. There is nothing complicated in the plastic that could not have been done in etched brass sheet, except the top curve might be difficult without more than basic tools. I think I'll ask for a replacement, but I expect it will be just as bad. Mike J

In Brian Haresnape's livery book, he calls it Indian red.

I'm not very happy with the tender assembly order. I've done it in the order of the issues, but I think doing 70, assembling the frames to the floor, before 64 and 66 which is adding details to the join between the floor and frame, would have been a lot better. Thinking I need to take it all apart and redo it. Anyone else done this part ?

I think the tender chassis starts in issue 15. There is a list on page 20 post 491.

I stuck the roof on with epoxy, so its not coming off, it did not seem like a bad fit except at the pointy bit at the front.. I tried getting the backhead in and out at the time and it was difficult but not impossible. However, a few more parts​ have been fitted to it since then, and I have not tried since. I expect it will not be coming out if it ever goes in again.

Checking my account, I've had binders at £6.99 sent with issues 4-7, 20-23, 40-43, and 60-63. So probably more binders to come with 80, 100 and possibly 120 ? The binders are good for keeping the instructions in order while I assemble slightly out of sequence, but I don't have the space to keep them all.

Good idea to opt out of the binders, so far I have 3 and another on its way, but I've not filled 2 yet. So I've now emailed and had a reply to stop getting any more.

Issue 52 will have the correct wheels, axles, new balance weights and pages of instruction, but not all the screws, washers and bushes. So you need those parts from the earlier issues 33-43 with the bad wheels and axles. My coupling rods were correct, so I guess you have to check your issue when it arrives and complain if it's wrong. Have you checked the water gauges in issue 12 ? these seem to vary from bad (but can be filed down) to broken.

Almost done up to issue 59.

I have a direct subscription with Hatchette and had no problems, if fact very good service. 4 issues come every 4 weeks. If something is not right or breaks when I try to fit it, an email to them gets me a replacement within a couple of weeks. They don't always reply to the emails, and sometimes the reply is to a completely different question, but the replacement issue still comes.