mike47j

I'm doing the backhead in issue 53. I notice there is a square washout plug between the water gauges in the pictures. It's not there in issue 11, or 52. So I'm not sure if I should fit it.

Just got 59 and mine has the correct parts, chassis 2-3.

Can't see much you can actually use the wheels for A4 6'8" wheels 20 spokes, 26" stroke, Crankpin PB. LNER D49, A3, B17, W1, B2, A1 NER S1, A2

The join in the coupling rods just after the center makes them handed.

It's my first part work, so I'm trying to keep almost up to date. Are Hachette good about sending replacement parts after the subscription ends ?

The previous post refers to another part that's missing, the bogie pivot. I've been a bit lazy and just waiting for the new wheels. So I just check issue 48 and I don't have those 4 small bushes ? pony truck fixers either.

I'm guessing that it has to do with clearing the gearbox frame. The hornblocks on the centre axle are thinner as well so they are allowing for a wide gearbox. So probably depends on which motor and gearbox you are going to use.

Just got a rubbish reply about the wheels telling me to make the holes in the body bigger ? I think the reply may be about fitting the buffers ?

Just get a reply about the bogie pivot, these parts will be in issue 57.

I've got 7 wheels and 4 axles and the best I can do is to make a set at about 85, 90 and 100 degrees. The wheels are such a sloppy fit on the axle that it may almost work. I assume £60 of slaters wheels will come with the standard 90 degree axles, and the 120 degree ones would be £15.10 extra. Most of the kit seems to be to a very good standard, just a few small things letting it down, eg the water gauges, until now. So I hope they send us a new set of wheels and axles that are right. The advert show the loco running, and they sell a motor, so they must make it work.

The wheels are a disaster. My axles are all at slightly different angles and so are the wheels.

Just got part 41, and the bogie pivot and M2 screw are missing.

3 cylinders, so they are not supposed to quarter, they are at about 120 degrees. The parts are right, the instructions are at least misleading if not actually wrong, they could be a lot clearer.

So what's the best way of lining ? I've seen the fox transfers done badly with the cream line moving away from the grey. I've some of the new HMRS ones, but the glue seems to make it look lumpy.

This is my first partwork, and given the quality of the parts and the total cost I will not do another.

Got my wheels yesterday. Spokes look fine, very shinny tyres so probably chromed. Axle is a very loose fit in the wheel but does not fit in the bearing. Allen key a bit loose in the screw. I thought these were 3 cylinder ? so should they be at 90 or 120 degrees ? Just tried a Slaters axle and its the same loose fit in the wheel and too tight in the bearing, but the screws are better fit to the allen key. So probably just needs new screws. Just got the reamer out on the bushes, and now the axle fits OK. One good wheel, one a bit wobbly, swap them and it's the axle not square. So probably new axles as well.

1 cab etch 2 smokebox, skirts, lamp brackets, steam turret, water tap castings 3 boiler casting and handrails 4 window frames etch and glazing, self tapping screws 5 boiler access plates etch 6 right inner chassis etch, spacers 7 left inner chassis etch 8 chassis spacers etch and axle bushes 9 left outer chassis etch 10 right outer chassis etch 11 backhead casting 12 backhead detail castings, brake valve, brake hose fitting, 2 injector valves, and 2 water gauge castings that need a lot of work 13 boiler and backhead details castings, regulator quadrants, gauges, smoke box valve, brake handle bracket, water scoop bracket 14 boiler pipe details 15 tender chassis etch 16 cab roof castings, roof details etch and black plasticard 17 left loco spring castings 18 more cab roof details etch 19 right loco spring castings 20 cab doors etch 21 loco hornblock castings 22 cab seats, toolbox and speed recorder castings 23 tender chassis spacers etch, coupling screw 24 lower tender chassis etch 25 sand boxes and valve castings 26 brake tanks and hanger castings 27 chimney & front chassis fixing plate castings, fixing screws 28 loco buffer and springs 29 2nd loco buffer and springs 30 water scoop links etch 31 more water scoop links etch 32 water scoop and coupling castings 33 one driving wheel and axle, actually these wheels and axles are junk so only the screws issue 52 has 6 replacement wheels and 3 new axles but not the screws. 34 tender brake cylinder castings and balance weight etch 35 2nd driving wheel 36 tender brake links etch 37 3rd driving wheel and axle 38 tender axle bushes 39 4th driving wheel 40 slide bar support brackets and guard irons etch 41 5th wheel 42 4 small castings, door handle, brake cylinder link, axle box keeper and slide bar support 43 6th junk wheel 44 4 small castings as 42, for the other side 45 loco buffer fixings, speedo bracket etch 46 footplate supports etch 47 steps, rivet strips, speedo bits etch 48 rear drawbar, chassis spacers etch 49 9 castings: brake link large and small, tender lamp bracket, piston gland, speedo gearbox, ashpan support, gauge, whistle link bracket and lever. 50 same as 49 51 5 small castings, small lubricator, l/h cab floor, reversing unit, cover and linkage 52 3 castings, r/h cab floor, ashpan lever support, replacement 6 wheels, 3 axles, balance weights 53 7 castings, whistle, speedo fitting, blowdown valve, regulator gearbox, steam heating pipe, blower valve, brake pipe 54 3 backhead castings, slacking pipe, fire box guards 55 backhead parts etch, firebox shelf, hand wheels etc 56 6 brass castings, screw reverse, brake handle, water scoop handle, brake hose bracket, regulator handles, water cock handles 57 bogie pivot missing from 41, center wheel crankpins and bushes 58 nickel silver etch, r/h coupling rods, pony axlebox spring brackets, ashpan lever 59 nickel silver etch, l/h coupling rods, pony axlebox spring brackets 60 8 castings, safety valves, crankpin covers, coupling rod joint screws. fit coupling rods. 61 pony axle box and spring castings l/h 62 pony axle box and spring castlings r/h 63 first tender wheel and axle. Fit large backhead pipes. 64 r/h tender outer frame etch 65 2nd tender wheel. Fit small backhead pipes. 66 l/h tender outer frame etch 67 3rd tender wheel. Fit R/h gauge backhead pipe. Cylinder cock lever. Notch raised floor sections. 68 Tender floor etch. Assemble cab roof dials. 69 4th tender wheel. Prepare and clean some cab detail parts. 70 Tender buffer beam and drawbar etch 71 5th tender wheel. Primer to backhead and cab fittings, satin black to backhead and some parts. 72 4 Tender axle box castings. paint raised cab floor and toolbox details 73 6th tender wheel. paint boiler backhead details. 74 4 more tender axle box castings. Paint cab seats and fittings. 75 7th tender wheel, paint cab roof dials, sliding window frames, r/h lever location plate. 76 6 brake castings, satin lacquer cab fittings, glaze siding windows. 77 8th tender wheel, 1mm brass wire 78 R/H tender steps etch 79 L/H tender steps etch 80 6 brake castings. Fit tender buffer beam. 81 2 brake castings, tender brake pull rods etch. Fit tender brakes. 82 brake pull rods etch. Tender axlebox keeper plates. Bend tender guard irons. 83 brake pull rods etch. Fit loco brakes. 84 sand box castings 85 firebox casting 86 tender front bulkhead etch 87 more tender body front etch 88 plastic tender body sides and back. Fit detail from issues 78-9 89 tender coal hopper etch 90 tender side supports. assemble main tender body. Make vent pipes. 91 bogie etch 92 bogie axle box castings, screws, springs and bushes. Fit loco brake cylinder pull rods. 93 bogie wheel. Fit tender and loco coupling. 94 2nd bogie wheel. Mask and primer to tender wheels. Paint tender chassis satin black. 95 R/H cylinder block and motion bracket etch 96 L/H cylinder block and motion bracket etch 97 smokebox door handle, both crosshead castings. Paint tender wheels. Drill 1.5mm holes for whistle and front coupling. Apply primer to body. 98 slide bar casting, fit to right, Spray body Garter Blue. 99 slide bar casting, fit to left. Mask and paint cab roof. 100 Transfers (Includes blue background ?) Mask and paint black parts of body. Paint and fit whistle. 101 Lubricator cranks and bracket, nickel silver etch. Apply number transfers. 102 Lubricator lid castings, 14BA 3 screws and 4 nuts. Paint and fit lids, fit lubricator links 103 Left hand coal chute details etch, fit left tender vent pipe, prepare smokebox transfer 104 Right hand coal chute details etch, fit right tender vent pipe, fit smokebox transfer lines 105 Tender detailing etch, paint window frames, fit safety valve tops, refit buffers. 106 Another tender detailing etch, paint cab floor and fall plate. 107 Tender coal partition etch, spray loco satin lacquer. 108 Water dome, filler, driver and fireman castings. fit water dome, start painting crew. 109 Rear pony etch. Paint crew, glaze windows, fit backhead 110 Pony axle bushes, spring and pivot. fit cab roof dials, raised floors, toolbox, lever brackets, seats, speed recorder, crew, cab window ash guards 111 Bogie wheel and axle, fit pony axlebox keepers, ashpan supports, speedo fittings, footplate support bracket, tender brake and water scoop handles. 112 Bogie wheel and 0.5mm wire, fit bogie, apply primer to bogie frame, wheels and speedo bracket. 113 Right hand connecting rod nickel silver etch, paint bogie and speedo bracket. 114 Pony wheel and axle, paint bogie wheels, fit pony truck fixers, water filler lever and handle. 115 Left hand connecting rod nickel silver etch, fit water tap to tender. 116 Pony wheel, 0.4mm wire.Fit pony truck, prime truck and wheels. 117 Expansion links and return cranks castings. Paint pony truck and wheels. 118 R/H Return crank rod, combination rod, union link rod, reversing rod, cylinder drain cock lever nickel silver etch. 14 BA screws and nuts. 119 L/H as 118. 120 Tender coal hopper and locker doors etch. 121 Tender details, including rear steps etch. 122 Small castings, for tender 2 x lamp brackets, 2 water cock brackets and brake hose fitting, for loco 2 drain cocks and 2 valves. 123 Same as 122. Mask driving wheels. 124 Tender buffers, brake hose springs, water level valve and gauge. Prime and paint driving wheels and tender body. 125 Coal. Paint tender body black part, apply LNER transfers, paint details, apply satin lacquer. 126 Couplings. Fill with coal, make and fit steam heating pipe. 127 Injector castings. Fit motor. 128 Injector brackets, reversing rod links, cylinder drain cock pipe brackets etch. Split pin and spring. Prime and paint chassis. 129 Silicon tube, crankpin washers, electrical wire. Fit pickups, wheels, motor, glue gearbox, reversing links, coupling rods, connecting rods, rest of motion, coupling. spray clear lacquer, oil, clean wheels. 130 Brass plates etch. Fit remaining parts. Test run.

Sometimes being a couple of months behind is really annoying. Unless there is a problem, in which case it should be sorted before I get the parts. I'm not sure about the motor, I guess it needs to be at least a canon.

I fixed all the brake gear, and I've not had any real problem getting the wheels on and off. I used Slaters sprung buffers, and had the same problem with the webs. My Modern Outlines 4MT has self contained sprung buffers, they have a pin through the buffer stock and a slot in the buffer stem, which also stops them rotating. But I've not finished it yet and the sequence for assembly and painting needs thought.

I'm slightly worried, as I'm following the instructions. The roof and doors are all fixed on but the backhead is a long way from complete. It's already very difficult to get the backhead in past the door hinges and windows, without all the handwheels and pipes.

Possibly the middle lamp bracket is on the buffer beam to make opening the cylinder cover or access to the cylinders easier.

The cab roof is removable by design, but mine falls off every time you pick the loco up an turn it over. It needs something extra to keep it on.

Thanks, that looks to have more chance of working than the instructions.

I'm a bit confused about assembling the cab doors, part 20 page 80. At the top it shows the stops below the hinges, but on the completed part shows them above the hinges. Also it looks like the stop work the wrong way, stopping the door opening inwards fully, rather than stopping it opening outwards.

I think we are all at different issues. I've built up to issue 19 (lots of broken drills on the body), and I've just received issues 20-23.