mike47j

I removed the spring on the bogie on mine. Not only does the spring push the bogie down, but also the body up, so you would have to put more weight on the bogie to stop the rear of the body bouncing. Surely it must be better without it ?

My replacement parts from issue 12 arrived today. They are better that the first ones, but now like the ones Rosspop had, so not really good enough. I guess I have to try and do the same thing they did to make them useable.

I fitted one pair to the middle wheels of my O2. I cut the springs from the frames and soldered them to the Slaters keeper bar. Had to file a bit off the sliding blocks so that I could fit the gearbox inbetween. Cut a big slot in the frames and used the JPL jig to fit the hornblocks. Easier than some others to fit. The keeper bar is held on by bits of 0.5mm brass wire, there is not much room to use a screw, but it seems OK. The pin that holds the spring can be filed down a bit to adjust the ride height, a screw would be better. Not a problem in this case as the ride height is set by the other wheels. I'll use them again.

I like the photos too, as it shows up the bits I missed. I have the JPL jig as well. Did you blacken the JPL rods ? or did they come like that ?

Yes. Jim designed the kit using 3/16" axles and bushes, with the springs and beam resting on the bushes. Also fitted from inside the frames there is almost no side play. Then Slaters did the wheels, but recommended they would look better with smaller axles, and they could provide bushes to fit inside his bushes. Possibly some 3/16 outside 5/32 inside brass tube might be better.

For some reason they are on the driving wheels page. I just used the drop down list on the home page. https://slatersplastikard.com/wheels/7mmScale/7mmLoco.php#Section1

Those look too small. The axles are 5/32" not 1/8". The Slaters 6920 5/32" bushes are 5mm od, and so Jim's bushes needs drilling out. Then all the bushes fit from inside the frames. Slaters have updated their web site to include the wheels with the bushes.

There is a white metal casting for those links.

maccmodels.co.uk does 7BA.and some of the other odd sizes.

My loco is 888 grams, center of gravity is about 1cm in front of the rear driving axle .

There is a weight casting that goes at the front of the chassis that would block moving the pickups forward. I've not fitted it as it would block a sprung coupling, but I might cut it in half and fit it. The motion plate comes from the angled slots above the plunger pickups to the bottom of the frame. I removed the lower part to clear the pickups. The large oval slot is almost impossible to see on the finished model. The front steps, brake gear and wheel all block sight of it. But the motion plate would be in the way again. I think putting the beams below the pickups is probably best. (Or just use sprung horn blocks on the rear drivers.)

I think you could also move the pivot forward a little as well. Since most of the space to put weight is at the front it would help with stability (not that mine goes very fast). The centre of gravity should remain between the pivot and bogie according the gauge 0 guild manual.

Mine's just about done. I used a pair of Slaters hornblocks on the rear drivers, with a branchlines motor and gearbox. Also removed the spring from the rear bogie. Some extra lead in the boiler over the drivers. Like this, I think it will cope better with our club layout which has some big steps and gaps in the track. The Slaters 5/32 bushes for the bogie are 5mm, so the ones in the kit need drilling out to accept them, unless I've got the wrong ones. According to Slaters they are going to pack the bushes with the wheels. Altogether it was a joy to build, and the first kit I've not had to put aside while I think of a solution to a problem. Just got to wait for some warm weather to paint it, and then work out how to line it. Mike

Seems slaters should supply sleeves for these axles to make them fit 3/16 bearings.

Which wheels ? I just got back from the Reading show with some of Slaters new 7836SW. But they have 5/32" axles and smaller screws, not 3/16" axles. The bushes in the kit are all for 3/16" axles.

In "The Book of A4 Pacifics" it says in June 42, Mallard was painted wartime black and had the valances removed.

I think the parts fit better after you get the thick paint off. I'd like to know what other holes need to be drilled in the boiler before fitting the handrail and lamp brackets. Cutting the coupling slot was not easy.

I used Homebase paint and varnish remover, poured it into a plastic food box and left the brass in it for about 3 hours. Only problem is it's white which makes it hard to find the window frames in the gel. I also ran a pointed file down the folds in the cab sides several times so it bent easier without bending the windows. (Second time, lucky its only 50p for a second copy.) Wish I'd checked the fit of the washout plugs before soldering it all up as filing it after was not easy.