markjj
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Posts posted by markjj
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I think these might be the ones you are looking for.
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7 hours ago, admiles said:
Thanks.....thanks what I suspected.
Just how does anyone get it that badly wrong??
Lack of proper research I would guess unfortunately.
Look at each of Dapols Air braked wagons the air pipes are either on steroids or look like they were borrowed of a 00 gauge wagon.
Why don't they run the wagons passed the experts before they release them it would save them a lot of bad press.
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I had 2 Dapol Jinties that I fitted Zimo sound decoders to. I got them from Youchoos they set them to work on a DC layout for me and they worked fine. You dont get to control all the options via DC though it just gives you the chuff matched to the speed. I hope this answers your question. I'm sure Loksound decoders do the same if you have the DC option turned on.
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22 hours ago, Hal Nail said:
Great thanks - I'd assumed they were on the brass etch with the brake parts so that's a result. I can use all the other bits there so will contact Slaters.
I'm surprised Slaters dont actually list them as a separate part on their wagon accessory range. I'm sure there would be a good market for them. They are pretty good at supplying parts though so hopefully they will sell you what you need.
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15 hours ago, brossard said:
Good to know, Parkside kits only have plastic ones which are pretty useless if you actually want to use them.
What are those brackets at the top with 4 pins? I should know since I built the kit.
John
John
They are the side brackets that you optionally cut off on the side of the Parkside kit if I remember right.
Parkside were pretty much a plastic moulding only firm as pretty much everything was designed and moulded in house.
There are a few exceptions where they do use whitemetal or etched brass but they are few and far between.
They made some amazing kits using very little technology. I can't believe some of the things I saw and learnt about how they did things when I was lucky to visit the original factory here in Kirkcaldy on various occasions.
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These are the lamp brackets that come in the Slaters LNER/BR Standard 20ton Brake van kit. They are described as corner lamp brackets in the instructions.
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21 hours ago, les101975jud said:
Hello
i have had two of these RTR models for several years now and both out of warranty. They have been sitting unused while I built a bit of a layout. Last week I got them out of their boxes and fitted sound decoders, speakers and stay alive units. One of them is fine, everything works. But the other one has a lighting problem ie. there are no lights at all. Everything else is fine, runs really well with sound etc.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is there a fix? Can I source a replacement loco PCB from somewhere?Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
regards Les
Have you brought the correct decoder for the one that isnt working Les?
There are 2 versions of the 08 the earlier ones had different light configurations to the later ones.
Dont panic yet....
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5 hours ago, F-UnitMad said:
By a loooooong way, too!!
At least one coupling link and the screw coupling extended to almost maximum on Peco curves.
5 hours ago, F-UnitMad said:Neither of them tolerated such a tight curve very well,
If you run the 37 on loose laid peco track it actually hammers the joints apart.
5 hours ago, F-UnitMad said:I'd say for big British diesels 6ft radius is the realistic minimum.
Even 6ft radius looks silly you really need the maximum radius that you can if you want it to look realistic at all.
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A class 37 will run round peco curves but you cant couple anything to it unless you lengthen the coupling.
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Walsall Models do the one from the WEP Models range that might work.
https://www.walsallmodelindustries.co.uk/product.php/wagon_compensation_unit/?k=:::6862124
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If it's not already been mentioned a VGA van and MEA wagons in 7mm. The MEA's are built on old HEA wagon chassis so they are halfway there already. I'm sure Dapol could do the VGA at a sensible price to.
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1 hour ago, JeffP said:
LNER non-corridor streamlined tender.
It will eventually go behind the W1.
It's a nice kit I have an original Martin Finney one in my stash.
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2 hours ago, JeffP said:
Finally got a reply and my kit now ordered.
Bit of a dear do so the remaining, and more expensive, part will be ordered in May and picked up at GOG Barnsley.
What kit did you buy Jeff?
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I have often wondered how they operate myself Jeff. If I cant click and it arrives next day I very rarely order from people now lol. I guess I'm getting too grumpy and impatient in my old age.
It could be because it's coming up to Easter and they might be away. Have you tried calling them?
Some small suppliers have day jobs to and only do the replying when they get spare few mins I guess.
Hopefully you will get a reply shortly and get what you are looking for.
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The FNA in 7mm would be nice. Once you have the bogies I'm sure it would lead you to other future options to.
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Premier do a chassis to suit the N7 and Slaters will do a motor gearbox that will fit I'm sure. If you look on Slaters downloads page you will find 1:1 drawings of the motor/gearbox combos that they sell which you can print out and try on your drawings.
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On 21/01/2023 at 13:13, Gilbert said:
Does anyone have any pictures or info which would allow the interior of a Container "A"to be modelled in 7mm ? (in use as a shed or similar after rail use ended)
I'm thinking this sort of container:
https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/acontainer
Thanks in advance
Chris H
Are these any help this container is at Quainton road or the Bucks Railway Centre. I hope it helps
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Continuing on with the hopper theme Accurascale how about doing a BR Anhydrite hopper in both 0 and 00.
There must be a demand for it as there are a good few S&C layouts about.
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5 hours ago, bluestag said:
Hey guys,
Just starting a batch of Slaters prepainted private owner mineral wagons. So far so good. But the brake handles are so far all pretty distorted. Is there a source of etched brass components to replace them?
Kevin
Why not contact Slaters for replacement ones?
Alternatively Ambis do some I'm not sure if they are an exact match but they are available on the Hobby holiday website.
Bettet still these are an excellent addition to the Slaters kits. They also do detailed interiors to.
https://www.djparkins.com/product.php?productid=18284&cat=309&page=2
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I think we have all shot ourselves in the foot with a lot of new products. Please dont delete this Mods. The great PW gave up on new products because as fast as he pumped money into kits someone copied them. I know for a fact DJP wont do anything unless it gives good return (Why should he ). We have all got lazy. All we seem to get now are upgraded repeats apart from a few odd new things. Everyone is moaning about prices use your brains and get your tools out. It's a no brainer guys.
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It would be easy enough to cut out the Planked area but not a quick job.
If you gently chain drilled holes you could remove most of the plastic. A bit of time with a good Sharp flat needle file would cure the rest. To cover the hole I would suggest a thin sheet or either brass or nickel silver with the rivet detail either punched in or better still use tiny brass rivets which would add a tiny bit more strength to it. Supeglue would hold the plate on and keep everything strong and rigid.
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8 hours ago, goldfish said:
Dapol also supply intanter couplings as spares, as used on their mineral wagons - 'Dapol 7A-000-011 Instanter Couplings & Hooks 5pr'
Avoid the Dapol instanter couplings they are shorter than everyone elses for some reason. I'm not quite sure who's are scale though.
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That looks possibly very much like a Tenmille kit built one judging by the construction.
I'm sure you can still buy Tenmille parts and the w-irons.
I used to copy their coaches and wagons I used standard strip wood from B&Q I think it was either 6mm x 10mm or 6mm x 12mm for the solebars. The floor is usually about 3mm ply which you can pick up small sheets either online or at proper model shops.
Tenmille do still exist here are the links.
https://www.tenmille.com/g0-kits
https://www.tenmille.com/g0-accessories
Jar of solder paste dried out, how do I revive it?
in Kitbuilding & Scratchbuilding
Posted
When I worked in factories that used it for building PCB's we used to store it in a fridge to stop it drying out. If it did start to dry out we used liquid flux to get it runny again.