boxbrownie

Odd thing is the pictures in the magazine (which I will not copy here) look like the front windows look like they have shattered 😁 it’s a good effect but I think in the flesh they probably really look like the special strengthened tinted glass on the prototype.

Just the way the plastic panes photograph.

4 minutes ago, CoBoLoco said:

Supposedly Hornby Magazine have a review video of the Accurascale 92 according to their Facebook page, but unfortunately it is behind a pay wall (key model world subscription). 

Bottom line. “It’s quite simply sublime”. 💯

17 minutes ago, TomScrut said:

 

Yes. MKL is an option independent of this.

 

 

Lokpilot 5 manual.

Ah OK, got that.

This is the answer I got from ESU when queried last year

”If you do not want to use the speed curve, you have to use the DCC - only version of the ESU V5 decoders. All ESU multiprotocol decoders of the V5 series use the speed curve.”

ESU tend to be a bit curt with their answers. 😁

Just now, TomScrut said:

 

According to the LP5 manual, you are incorrect.l, hence why I said what I said. MKL is only to do with the outputs to work with certain Marklin locos, and is available in standard and DCC format. The standard Lokpilot (i.e. not DCC) doesn't have 3 point acceleration table, MKL or not.

 

Anyway. We have gone off topic. 

Definitely the European multi-protocol version only has speed map tuning, I found this out last Christmas when I bought five V5 sound decoders and got in a right pickle trying to use three step speed set up.

I have no idea what the LP5 manual is, sorry.

5 minutes ago, TomScrut said:

 

MKL and DCC are two separate parts of the specification on these. You can get DCC and standard MKLs I believe.

 

MKL is just that outputs 5 and 6 (from memory) are high output rather than logic level.

 

DCC and standard, both are fine for what most of us in the UK need it's that the standard one works on AC stuff and some other protocols (as well as DCC and analogue DC). DCC and standard do however have different acceleration values, i.e. a different method for calculating time to tip speed.

 

I expect it will be non MKLs, I just remember the Hattons 66s needing MKLs. Only UK loco I know of that does.

No one is disputing that, but it’s not the answer to the question.

The MKL version no longer has the “three step” accel/deccel settings, you have to use a speed map rather than what the U.K. has been used to since DCC first raised its head. That’s the real annoying change to the ESU decision to market this version in the U.K., after all the Maerklin/selectrix/Motorola system are almost unheard of here.

17 hours ago, TomScrut said:

 

I presume that is the ordinary one rather than the "MKL" version?

Pretty sure it needs to be the Lokpilot/Loksound “DCC” version not the MKL, the MKL is the European version which is multi protocol where as the DCC version is just DCC, which is used in most of the RoW, I think people have had issues with some of the lighting functions using the MKL.

Can AS confirm this pleased/

33 minutes ago, thetrains said:

Bit harsh, footnote is funny.

That’s what I thought 😉

I always forget a sense of humour is often as lacking as common sense.

9 hours ago, Torbay Express said:

 

There you go, assuming again.... Maybe I am, maybe I am not.  Maybe it 'just' depends "on the circumstances..... 

 

Looking at your footnote, you take pleasure in trying to offend others, so only a little of your own medicine! Cannot stand the heat, jump out of the fire. 

 

Oh no, I wasn’t assuming just hoping, obviously wrong.

Don't bother replying, I won’t see your post.

3 hours ago, andythenorth said:

I create game sprites which are 30 degree axonometric, but most of us would struggle to distinguish axonometric from isometric.  I'd have to look up the difference to explain it. 🙂  Possibly isometric is even a subset of axonometric, can't remember 🙃

 

Wait until they ask about orthographic views 😁

3 hours ago, MJI said:

 

Ad blockers do work, but I prefer to pay £12 than to block ads, I said to Andy bring in a discount member ship I would happily pay.

 

Web hosting isn't cheap and modern adverts are horrific. £1 a month is worth it to keep this forum going.

Absolutely correct, I wouldn’t pay the higher charges before because everything but the ad-blocking I didn’t really need or wouldn’t miss, but when removing the ADs came down to just £12 it’s worth every 3.28p every day.

5 hours ago, AY Mod said:

 

As I've explained numerous times they shouldn't and I'm awaiting a fix from the adtechies on that.

Indeed, and I was answering “thegreenhowards” question.

1 hour ago, Torbay Express said:

I could assume a great many things but will stick with what I know and leave the assuming you.  It's something that you are good at. 

What a pleasant chap.

20 minutes ago, Bucoops said:

 

 

Why bring religion into it? 🙃

I brought Guinness into it as well 🤣

3 hours ago, Hroth said:

April 1957. Minories is published!

 

 

Scaled for OO and TT.

 

 

But remember, March 1957 and the above are TT3*...

 

* And it says so on the Minories TT scale!

 

 

Axonometric, I’ve not heard that since secondary school TD class 😁

2 hours ago, hayfield said:

 

 

A couple of thoughts have come to mind, firstly perhaps we could live with the temperature a bit lower during the day. Secondly it may be cheaper during the day keeping the warmth ticking over whilst we are up rather that turning the heating off in late morning and on again late afternoon

 

Ours is set to come on at 07:00 and off at 22:00 as we are in the house all day, it normally comes on for a few hours after 07:00 and unless very cold outside it doesn’t fire up again until early evening for an hour or so and then sometimes it won’t come on again until we go to bed, I think it all depends upon how well insulated the house is and the heat “leakage” between the timings.

3 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

Hi Andy,

 

I’m about to take the plunge and go for premium. However I just want to be clear what it means when it says you may still see trade ads. If I’m still going to see the incredibly annoying Digitrains video in the bottom right hand corner then it’s not worth it for me as this makes it virtually unusable on my iPad.

 

Please could you confirm whether or not the trade videos will disappear?

 

Regards

 

Andy

You’ll still see them on a lot of the “manufacturers/suppliers” pages, and yes on an iPad it is very annoying.

13 hours ago, Torbay Express said:

Its not just the weight, it depends on the rolling resistance and drag! 

If I had said Mass would it have been better for you? 

I assumed the people here wouldn’t have thought the couplings would only be strong enough to pick a coach up by one, they might have the common sense to realise it might need enough strength to be pulled by a Loco around a track?

RMWeb…..🤣

10 hours ago, KeithMacdonald said:

 

I once knew a Brian who bought a genuine original XK120.

 

A week later, his mum told him it was too flash and took him down to the dealer to PX it for something "better".

I had a chap come around to view and buy a Citroen CX, he arrived with his wife in a pristine XK140…….when he signed the paperwork he sign “Lord”……and he was a lovely bloke too 😁

2 minutes ago, Rugd1022 said:

 

I'll wager that anyone and everyone who ever had anything to do with building Jaguars, whether real or replicas was called Brian, Dave, Bill, Bob, Ron, Geoff, Reg, Derek, Mick, Graham, Neville or Norman. It's the law!

 

 

 

 

Thinking about it and looking around my records I am pretty sure they were C- Type replicas as he had access to the original drawings and specs

1 hour ago, hayfield said:

 

 

I know you are just having a bit of fun. But if everyone took a bit of responsibility and reduced unnecessary usage things would be easier for all

 

Unfortunately most people do try and “save the planet” in one way or another even if it’s just recycling properly or fitting LEDs in every fixture but then you often see some jerk at the top of the tree blatantly doing something completely at odds with their message, they know who the mugs are.

1 hour ago, KeithMacdonald said:

How to build your own XJ13

 

 

We had an engineer at work who used to hand build replica XK120/140 Jags, I even took some piccies for him over Hanningfield Reservoir with Afghan Hounds as the props, oh yes and a blonde 😉  unfortunately so long ago they were in transparencies and don’t think I still have them anywhere.

I seem to remember his name being Brian……but that decades ago, his name might have been Johnny Vegas and I wouldn’t remember .

1 hour ago, Rugd1022 said:

 

Yummy isn't it...?

 

 

 

As is this 1/5th scale model of it...

 

 

 

Gorgeous, I wish Pocher did a model of it…….I’ve a spare kidney 😷

2 hours ago, Bulleidboy100 said:

We are with Octopus and participated in both Wednesday and Thursdays energy reduction trial. We had a list of everything that could be turned off. We sat in the dark, well not quite, my laptop was fully charged so I could watch the football on the iPlayer. 

I wonder if the Octopus CEO sat in the dark watching TV on his Ipad? 😂

14 minutes ago, McC said:

We've tested these with very very long rakes with success (pictured is the Sleeper Dellner version)

Which is why I mentioned the weight of the N Gauge stuff is a LOT lighter, and doesn’t require the extra strength of magnets, they way you have done it takes care of both requirements, strength and detail.

3 hours ago, hayfield said:

 

Its all well and good turning off radiators rooms, but when your thermostat is in the hall its the hall temperature that dictates whether the central heating is on and by how much. The smartest version of Tado is to have Tado thermostats on all of the radiators. Then you can set the temperature in every room and the heating will only come on when necessary. This requires an investment of a few hundred pounds, how long it will take you to recoup what you spend is questionable

 

The other issue is the family room is south facing with a large amount of glass (windows and doors)  warmer when the sun is out, but leaks warmth in the evening and night as we have no curtains. The lounge north facing is the coldest during the day and warmest at night. We regulate the heating for which room is in use rather than what tempreture the hall is

 

The other factor I think (?) is to have radiators larger than you require (its easier to turn the radiator thermostat down than the heating up). Waiting for our plumber to come round to discuss as the front room rad is a bit old 

Which is why the usual recommendation is the have the room where the thermostat is sited radiator at maximum so radiators in other rooms will always get flow when set lower (this is on the proviso the radiator and heating set up is correctly installed), it works for us because we have a large hall, open to upstairs as well the bedrooms we don’t use and a bathroom we have turned down to “frost” protection (not that that would ever happen), our heating is also set to only run during daytime 07:00>22:00 because we are at home all day……although not sure anyone needs heating on at night unless they live in a drafty castle.

It’s basically whatever heating installation you have it has to match the (often) unique circumstances of each family/dwelling requirements.