Timara

As requested by Gilbert, some photos of 60961.... Taking one of these lovely shiny new models and weathering it in such a fashion does take a bit of a leap of faith, I can assure you! However, you just have to bite the metaphorical bullet and do it..... The stage I enjoy the most is when the gouache is brought out. I have to use my modelling glasses for this bit, as my eyesight isn't what it once was and my normal distance pair don't allow the close focusing I once had. Old age isn't all it's had out yo be, trust me! (I'm 42, but almost blind as a bat with glasses!) Anyway, this stuff is magic for steam era modelling, as it allows all manner of texture to be reproduced, to represent (almost) everything you'd have found on a cared-for but uncleaned steam locomotive. Two images in natural light follow below.... As with 60983 earlier, testing on class C freights were undertaken and one such portrait was captured, this time on an up working. As for more like this, stay tuned... I cannot confirm nor deny that there might be an even filthier one to come, so you'll just have to wait and see if that happens!

Best you don't see the ones in future plans then......!

Thanks all! Below are some photos of these two in the winter sunlight, which really shows off how gorgeous a shade of green Bachmann have given them. Firstly 60803.... Secondly, 60983.... Both of these have had their smokebox doors thinned down, which isn't a difficult job to do, in fairness, though my views on this are known and I don't need to repeat them... I think I may have mentioned before, but no T-Cut was used on either of these, as it will remove the decoration in no time, unlike the vast majority of models from Bachmann. The printing process has clearly changed..... 60803 needed the earlier style of valve guide on the front of the cylinders. As luck would have it, the cylinder mouldings of both this and the interim model are broadly the same, so the fronts were swapped over (there's one of these earlier chassis being fitted under an older body; more anon!). Both locos were tested on class C freights yesterday, so here's 60983 a down working, taken using my tablet.

Mine arrived this morning. Very impressed with the packaging and presentation and even more so with the contents! I wasted no time in popping EM wheels in one of them, though I need to put an order in with EMGS stores for some more....! The one I've rewheeled looks well alongside the dia. E512 Habfis, as the pic below shows. Looking forward to weathering it up, as per my many photos showing these on the Sheerness to Willesden/Mossend back in the late 90s.

I'm more than happy to assist here, since I've produced a number of locos for the layout. Some locos tend to be easier to deal with than others; the Ivatt 4MT (plus other similar ones from Bachmann) are an absolute (flying!) pig to do, thanks to tight clearances around the cylinders/slidebars. May I ask what ones you're looking at converting, please? Also happy to discuss by PM if you wish. Cheers,

As mentioned by Gilbert above, a little more about the restoration of the up slow to operational use.... This has been a little problem for a while and I'd been trying to think of non-invasive methods of rebuilding it, where the trackwork wouldn't be damaged. In short, it was the proverbial elephant in the room and I tried to focus on other things.... Effecting the repair on the point at the north end of the layout piqued my curiosity a little, so I went for another look, as you do.... From above, it didn't really make sense and I couldn't see how it had even worked before; my plan for rebuilding said area was originally going to be fitment of an Exactoscale adapter plate underneath and two new droppers from the switch rails, going into a pair of tubes in the operating arm under the baseboard. There is plenty of room for this arrangement and I've used said method for many years on my own layouts. So, I took the motor off and then it dawned on me how Norman had built the thing in the first place. It took very little time to do, needing just two short bits of 0.4mm n/s wire, with a right-angled bend to fix to the bottom of the switch rail tips. Looking back on it, I'm wondering why I just didn't take the tortoise off back when it failed three years or so ago, but that's how it goes....!

As per below....

Hi Ollie, Thanks for your kind words! The rear cab windows pop out very easily, which I forgot to mention about. I'm kicking myself, though, for not photographing the back of the door post-modification. I think I was more concerned that I needed to get it to fit properly, rather than "oh hang on, this might be useful!". I'll try and remember to do it for the next one(s) though, whenever they do indeed arrive. Cheers, Tim

You know, that's the one thing I forgot to check I think it's got 3mm driving axles, but until I see the next one (when they arrive!), I cannot be absolutely sure.... Sorting out the tender axles might be fun, as they have pickups on split (2mm) axles...

It's extremely rare for me to end up being the first modeller to weather a brand new model up, before it's even hit the shops. As such, I've had the opportunity to come to my own conclusions regarding the model, rather than just read what others have posted or indeed magazine reviews. I'll start with a trio of images, taken in natural (late afternoon) sunlight..... I must say; I do rather like the original factory finish of this, long before it was renumbered and weathered by me. This, by the way, was the review sample in the current issue of BRM. As you can see, the smokebox door has been significantly modified, given this is the main failing (IMHO) of the model; getting the "face" right of a loco, after all, is vital. The door, thankfully, pops off without much ado, making thinning down rather more straightforward. I use a Stanley knife for this job, since I can have greater control over the blade than I can with a scalpel, especially given I can "roll" the door along the knife blade in order to mark it out. I think I've taken about 0.6mm of the depth out of it, which I smoothed up with a decent file afterwards. The plug bit of the door is then too deep for the recess provided, so I took a "detail file" to the back of it until it sat happily in the hole. The original door dart was a casualty of this process, so that was just replaced with my usual pair of shoulderless handrail knobs soldered to a length of wire, trimming the handles to the desired length and blackening afterwards. However, what I haven't mentioned is that there is a diameter discrepancy between that of this V2 and the Hornby A3, given I do believe the smokeboxes were more or less identical? It's about 0.5mm, as I discovered when I popped an A3 door on the end to see if it improved the looks or not; the Hornby one being the smaller of the two..... This is why I went down the route of thinning the door instead. Actually, David, they're not in the wrong place at all. The problem is the thickness of the smokebox door "plug" giving the optical illusion that they're set too far back. My photos above show that. On a personal note, that's the one area of the model which offended me the most, hence why I did something about it! On to the rest of it.... The cab windows, though ever so slightly undersized, can just about be lived with. Height-wise, they're about 0.3mm out and slightly less so in width. The mahogany window frame rather accentuates this, which is a pain. The gap between firebox and cab isn't quite so bad as it appears in photos; they can be awfully cruel when enlarged more than one would see in the flesh. Valve gear: again, this can be toned down once weathered. Yes, it's a little chunky.... Tender brake rigging.... What is not mentioned in the instruction leaflet is that if you fit this to the tender, the loco to tender coupling side-play is significantly restricted as it clouts the two little bars which mount inside the frames. I decided that it was easier to snip off what wasn't visible (just fore of the leading axle) and leave the rest as normal. The holes needed opening out a bit with a tapered broach too, which was unexpected. Thinking more about the coupling, I do have doubts about its durability and longevity, as although it's relatively straightforward to separate the loco and tender (either using the wedge supplied or a thin-bladed screwdriver), getting them coupled back up is rather less so. Only two (of four) pins are actually used in any case, because the speaker is in the loco and not (surprisingly these days) in the tender, where there is oodles of space. Finally, a cautionary tale for anyone who wishes to carry out various weathering techniques. The lining and decoration will come off at the slightest whiff of white spirit/T-Cut or anything else of that ilk. The overhead warning flashes and numbers came off easily with a fingernail and then tidied up with a tiniest bit of the aforementioned. I'd advise a coat of varnish of some kind before adding any weathering (if using non-water-based techniques), since replacement of said lining will be necessary. Cheers,

As Gilbert mentioned above, here are three images taken in natural (late afternoon) sunlight the other day. As you can see, the smokebox door has been modified significantly, given this is the main failing (IMHO) of the model. I mean, the "face" has to look right, yes? The door, thankfully, pops off without much ado, making thinning down rather more straightforward. I use a Stanley knife for this job, since I can have greater control over the blade than I can with a scalpel, especially given I can "roll" the door along the knife blade in order to mark it out. I think I've taken about 0.6mm of the depth out of it, which I smoothed up with a decent file afterwards. The plug bit of the door is then too deep for the recess provided, so I took a "detail file" to the back of it until it sat happily in the hole. The original door dart was a casualty of this process, so that was just replaced with my usual pair of shoulderless handrail knobs soldered to a length of wire, trimming the handles to the desired length and blackening afterwards. That's more or less all there is to say about it, other than the model receiving my usual weathering methods, which I've described on many a time in this topic. Eagle-eyed readers will note the "incorrect" shape 6 on the smokebox numberplate, which I take from the HMRS pressfix sheet for LNER wagons. Matches the Modelmaster numbers near as dammit. I'll go into more detail of my views on the model over on the V2 thread (yes, the same pics may appear, "because".....) Cheers, Tim

No, definitely 60012; R2825, if you have a look on Google.... However, 60027 was from the same period of decent Hornby BR green too. Also this photo....

Hmmm, doesn't look like a it's come out too well (as with the A2s), though I'd like to see how it compares to a known quantity first (ie: one of Hornby's accurate renditions of BR green), before any proverbial "knives" come out.... Is there any chance we might be able to see one of these side by side, under decent lighting, with one of the first super-detail B17s or indeed 46115, 46117, 60093 or 60012? The shade of green used on the original runs of the Clans isn't the best and needs T-Cut to bring out a better colour (though still not right by any means!), together with a coat or two of original formula Johnson's "Klear". Don't get me wrong; I'm not trying to defend the livery application of this one, but I'd just like to see a fairer comparison before I cast any real judgement!

Oh go on then...... A couple of Chamossaire.

I've been reminded I meant to post up some pre-weathering photos of "Tehran"..... I don't normally post pics of things before they're finished, but Gilbert did rather insist. Here goes..... These show the depth and shade of the replacement green better than those after weathering did. I still say it's better as finished, but this could easily have been the starting point, in a parallel universe......

Hi Dave, Only just seen this! You're absolutely correct; airbrushed as per my comment on the photos above. I lined it out before sealing it in place with a couple of coats of Klear (original formula). What I did do, rather than using water to wet the carrier film of the transfers, was use MicroSet instead. It helps get things over a few of the rivets which the lining has to go over the top thereof. They're best left to fully harden before the Klear goes on, as the solution does slightly soften the transfers. Thankfully, it doesn't affect the paintwork underneath. With regard to photos, I used my late dad's b/w photo as a guide, as well as my knowledge gleaned over the years of how it would likely have looked after whatever works visits and where things were shedded. Finding accurately dated photos for the desired condition is never easy, but occasionally one strikes lucky! Cheers,

I'll be honest with you....I hope they are too! I'm thinking of 60502 here, at the end of this year.....

Thanks everyone; I'm very humbled by your kind words! I'm going to be honest here; back when these came out and the colour of green was (more than) "a bit off", I did wonder what one would look like if given a full repaint. I jumped at the chance to do so when the opportunity arose. On a loco costing in the region of £180, it really shouldn't even be necessary, but it is what it is. My view, however, is that irrespective of the livery on the "BR Green" ones, the underlying model is absolutely superb, designed around both final assembly and the different variations chosen for both sub-classes. The electrical side of it is especially good, with the wiring neatly hidden away. I'm still pondering whether to get one myself and convert it to an A2/1, rather than carrying on with the Bachmann-based one I've had ongoing for a while (60509 Waverley, purely because I've travelled on the paddle-steamer of the same name!).

Hi David, It was indeed a complete repaint and lining. Thankfully, the model reduces to component parts very easily, making masking up of the bits I didn't want paint getting on much easier. The glazing refuses to budge, so that's just masked off and sliced around very carefully. Lining is from HMRS sheet 8. It really is worth the effort to replace the dreadful/insipid green with the right one, especially if the lining is going too! Hope that helps anyway. Cheers,

For anyone wishing to bite the bullet and do a complete repaint and lining job, these images may be of help.... Phoenix Precision post-54 Green and HMRS loco lining. I feel it really is worth the effort and the model reduces very easily into its component parts with very little ado, making the job less of a pain to mask up.

Thanks all for the compliments on 60518. With Gilbert's permission, here is a real and model comparison, aided by a photo my late father took as a teenager (a fortnight or so off age 14). It's as close as dammit......

So, the "how I did this" for Car 106... It's probably easier if I explain using these two photos Gilbert has taken, since I didn't take any of my own! The structural integrity of this car was untouched, with just two suitably sized inserts of plasticard to slot in where necessary. My plan was basically to give me as little work to do in the paint matching department; ie: just the cream and then the resulting lining! Hornby's shade of "umber" is still a mystery to me and I suspect always will be! Cutting out the sections I didn't need needed a great deal of care; when you're left with just a vestige of the window frame either side, you need to make sure that the new blank fits snugly and needs no filler adding either side. In both instances, a new oval window was required. Using the offcut of the one taken out from the kitchen side, I traced round the oval inside on the plasticard, once all was fixed in place, before chain-drilling a load of holes and filing it all out to shape. On the non kitchen side (above), the oval window is a plain affair, without any of the extra framework like the toilet window on the far left. I basically filed up the window from a redundant piece of glazing left over from a previous car. Once it was the right size, it was fitted in place (after painting!) The kitchen side (above) was much the same, though had a change of passenger window to give it curtains. I also added a table, cut from a spare interior. The cream took a bit of working out. In the end, I used Pullman cream, with a bit of Humbrol "trainer yellow" (24) mixed in to match the rather more yellowy shade used by Hornby. A couple of coats of Johnson's Klear were added next, before transfers used for the lining (HMRS) were added. It's certainly nice to see a different vehicle in the consist though. Something I've always liked, personally, about Pullman cars is their sheer variety.

I'm still "sort of" active on here, but not, if that makes any sense? I've made almost no progress on the Princess since my last posting on it, thanks to getting distracted by loads of other things, including my return to the musical fold a few years ago. That and a few (very important) life changes..... Don't get me started on the past twelve months either...!! As for "St Aidan's", that's long been scrapped as things didn't work out as I had originally hoped.... Long story and not for this thread Cheers,

Ooh, I forgot to mention that.... So, I warmed up the pipe under a halogen desk lamp and very carefully shaped it from there. Not knowing how brittle it would otherwise be, I didn't want to be too brutal. Either way, it worked out well, I think. Its quite a subtle joggle anyway, so it doesn't need much!

Slightly late to the party here, but for those who haven't seen my posting over on the Peterborough North thread, the three images below may be of interest. This is 60501, portrayed in the condition it would have been in immediately pre overhaul in October 1958. Changes to the model as it came from the box have been moving the numberplate to the upper door strap, moving the nameplates upwards a bit (affixing etched ones from 247 Developments on top) and replacing both the chimney and sandbox fillers with those produced by Graeme King. The rest is unchanged, including the cabside numbers. In order to hide the insipid green, a rather grubbier condition has been arrived at than i would have liked to have given it, but that subject has been covered enough in this thread already. It almost came to pass that a full repaint was on the cards, but the solution shown above was rather more preferred! As for the base model itself, I am very impressed with the overall design of it and especially way the writing in the locomotive is tidied away, negating anything coming adrift. The motion is also nicely chunky, unlike previous Hornby models where it's so thin that one almost wonders how it doesn't bend whilst in motion! Hopefully the next batches won't suffer from livery issues, but I suppose we shall see what happens! Cheers,