Timara

Glad to be of help Jamie . LMS wagons Vol 1 is my recommended one. Also covers the planked varieties, of which there are lots. I'll deal with those later as I've got a handful of those in varying states of completion.

The recent Christmas and New Year break has enabled me to get my finger out and finish off a few outstanding projects, most notably some 12t van kits. Roof issues aside (I've left these alone as I'm game for an easy life!), the Parkside Dundas PC42 BR fruit van kit is a most useful one indeed and can produce 3 main variants of ordinary 12t van aside from the kit as intended. Below are sides in various states of modification. Starting with the raw bodyside - note the shelf brackets and vent scoop plates - these all get removed to do the following: LMS Dias 2097 and 2108, BR D1/200. The latter are virtually the same, save for roof vents on the LMS diagram. With everything removed, this is how the side now looks. The D2097 van goes a stage further and has the pair of diagonal straps removed, leaving just the verticals. These had a different underframe from the rest - standard Morton 4 shoe push brakegear instead of the 8 shoe clasp as fitted to the rest. More on those anon! Finally (for now) a pic of a completed van to D2108 awaiting the paintshop - roof vents are the usual MJT torpedoes. The underframe spare from a D2097 conversion goes nicely under an Airfix/Dapol LMS planked body, which does a few diagrams in its own right. As stated at the start, I'm fully aware of the wrong roof profile of the Parkside kit, but when you're building the quantity I need (I have a good couple of dozen of these), life is very much too short. Underframe detail is confined to adding brake shoe actuation rods, main cross-shaft and pull rods. A combination of 0.4 and 0.7mm diameter brass rod/wire does the trick neatly. Buffers are 13" heads from the 51L range using the original shanks. Further detail can be given over to replacement axleboxes for those that had them replaced with the BR pattern (or in the case of D1/200, built with them). All in all, a nice kit to work with and produce a goodly variety to a fitted van train.

Hi Brian, The window rims don't cause any problem at all when opening them out. There's some kind of lip inside them that I swear should not be there, but out it comes and in go the new windows. The toilet at the end caused a little bit of hurrumphing but I managed to salvage the vent and bar from the Bachmann RU and it went in OK. Profile-wise, it's not far out and the only thing that strikes it out as being different are the raised window frames. If I'm honest, the frames are a bit on the proud side, so for a repainted one, I'd strip the body to bare plastic and thin down the frames. I must admit that I prefer the Mainline shell to any of the later Replica ones. The latter just don't scream "BR standard stock" to me in the way the Bachmann ones do. Incidentally, the bogies are the clip-fit ones that came with the original Mainline BSK/SK that Replica produced a few of. They're very hard to get hold of but they do make backdating the buffet much easier! OK, so they're not the correct BR2 bogies, but what the hell.... I really must get the entire train that the above RB runs with finished off. A full length Irish Mail (13 bogies in my case) with a rebuilt Scot on the front is a sight to stir anyone! Cheers, Tim

Hi Brian, Couldn't find it on the old forum, but there's another method you can try and it does do the trick. If you're ever in need of a Bachmann RU as a test train vehicle with plated-over windows, the glazing is highly useful indeed and can fit the old Mainline model with a little bit of work. Only needs the openings filed out a tad...... The overall effect isn't too too bad to be honest. I only need a pair of them, so this method suits rather well. Roof still needs a final coat of paint and I need to fit the Bachmann coupling arm to the other end, but it's pretty much done aside from a bit of final weathering (not to mention repairing the damaged lining on the kitchen side). The gangway connectors are Bachmann ones left over from a project. Certainly proves there are more ways to skin the proverbial cat, wouldn't you agree? Cheers, Tim

Another one for the "why the heck didn't I think of that" ! For locos with odd numbers of spokes, quartering by eye is a complete swine and anything to make it easier is welcome. Nice one Dave!

Very interesting conversion there. I have a serious weakness for shays - lovely machines! One day I might treat myself to an On30 version for the hell of it

Damn, you're giving me ideas for my LH100 handset now....... Like it lots!

Hello Iain, I've found that one can add extra bits (including photos) to these blogs, but even I'm trying to get to grips with it all and it's just about making some kind of sense! Ah excellent! I'll look forward to seeing that. It's about the only thing that's currently stopping me finishing my first one off before it goes through the weathering shops.... It's the one you saw last weekend btw... Indeed - just sorting a few relevant pics out for you, in-between other distractions! Tim

Hi Iain, Looking good! I'm going to have to try some of those mods of yours on my pair of 9Fs by the looks of it! Do you have a closeup of the resulting closed gap between loco and tender at all please? I'm going to presume you're working out something for the non-existent cab doors on the model? Cheers, Tim

The smelly comment was so perfectly said. I've been quoting you a lot since reading this.......

No worries! I've got the Ian Beattie scale drawing for the thing too, somewhere! Mine's due to be in summer 1961 condition, post overhaul, without AWS gear. I have two highly useful shots from the Colour Rail catalogue - one online (b/w) and the other as a slide. If it's of any use, I'll set up a blog post of my own with the many faces of Black 5s tomorrow. Oddities such as making a part-welded tender from the Hornby example being one. I've got 20 of the things and none of them are the same. Tim

Ah ha, someone else doing the same loco! My one has hit a bit of a plateau of late - really ought to get on with it to be honest! If you don't mind a bit of positive criticism, I'd strongly advise sorting out that infill under the smokebox. My 44687 was the first one I did the operation on, being as it was fully open to view. it's much easier to do on the Caprotti ones anyway. Also, the chimney was a lot more centred on the smokebox top on the final two, unlike the rest of the Caprottis. Looking good! What era are you doing this one in? Pre or post AWS fitment? Tim

Hello Iain, Thanks for your kind comments. I did the same as you did with the reverser, though I've still got a lot of pipework under the running plate to finish off on the driver's side, which is why the side shown above was done first for the shoot (deadlines maketh the man). I've got a Comet bogie to finish for this one as I'm borrowing a bogie from another Duchess. When I *eventually* regauge this one to EM, it'll gain a host of Gibson wheels. Strange how there isn't a 3'8" 12 spoke bevel rim wheel in the range though . I've kept the original deflectors for the time being, though I would like to mount them at the correct distance from the smokebox. They're a bit on the close side when viewed head-on. Paint-wise, it was a bit of luck that I happened on the "right" shade. I've long regarded the Railmatch shade as being far too dark for the purpose it was meant for, so I thought "I wonder if it'll do BR loco red....". In bright sunlight, it is indeed VERY red, not least under halogen light. Perhaps we're all too used to seeing it darker when in fact it is like this? The correct shade (or so I'm told) is something bordering on Cherry Red, which seems about right. It gets dulled down anyway when cleaned with oily rags, which is probably where that urban myth comes from..... Best book I can recommend for how bright the colour can be is Stanier Pacifics by Derek Huntriss. The view of 46238 on Camden turntable is a good example. Cheers! Tim

Thanks Jamie. There's something I can't put my finger on when it comes to Stanier's finest locomotive design....... Thinking about it, I wonder what a Brit or DoG would look like if painted like this? *stands back with can opener*

Thanks Tony! Yes, it's a pet hate of mine too with lack of soot up top. Plenty of photos to help though! I'll revisit the tender frames now I've found a reasonable colour shot of the same ones at last.

Another project almost done and dusted.... With the exception of the lining etc on the driver's side, it's complete. As expected, the red shade DID tone down with a bit of weathering. Certainly matches all my colour books, not to mention my own photographs of 46229. Decided to take advantage of the sunlight this afternoon, so here are a trio of photos of the completed side! I'm rather pleased with it, if I dare say so myself. The use of BR coach Crimson is certainly a vast improvement on the RTR colour and pretty much spot on to my eyes. Comments and questions more than welcome!

Wouldn't be much of a problem I don't think. The one I'm planning on doing is a bit smaller (single hopper and not such a big bunker), so I'd reckon on a set of brass rails and a lot of work plus winding gear in the top. Good job I'll be slitting it just under the main top bit before the bunker...... A race to see who will motorise theirs first I wonder? Cheers, Tim

Ah right. Bit different from what was done here then! The biggest problem I've found with the Heljan beam fronts is that they're a bit lacking in depth. Added to the fact that the side framework lacks certain bits that the Bachmann ones have, it didn't need much pondering as to what worked. Next job is to sort out a way of fixing body to chassis as currently it's just plonked on. May well find a way of adding some plasticard lugs to the chassis to allow the original clips to engage. ETH gear is being added to both ends, along with screwlink couplings.

Hiya MD, Going on the pair of photos of this loco on Fotopic, it's a part-welded one, which will cause you a little bit of bother (if you're *really* wanting to get this one right that is!). You'll be wanting the later style of tender spring hangers for a start, plus losing some of the rivet lines. I've done a trio of these and it can be done without damaging the paintwork/lining. Worth my getting a photo of either of mine? Out of interest, what livery is this one going to have? Plain black in 1966-8 or fully lined out? If the former, it can be done...... Cheers, Tim

Well, I'm getting there, slowly..... Next job to do is undercoat + paint the tender underframe, followed by the soul-destroying task of lining it. I'm not looking forward to it, especially as the lining I bought to do this task is a pile of dodgy doodah. Word from the wise: NEVER use the Fox stuff if you want an accurate looking model. It's far too thick and evidently been sized from something a lot bigger and not so true-to-scale - it was quite a bit longer+taller than the tender body. Suffice it to say, I'm not impressed one bit! However, all hasn't been lost..... It's a rather good job that the HMRS BR coach lining is a very good match for what I'm trying to achieve. Ok, so it only comes in straight lines and can be a PITA to align round curves, but it's done the job. The tender is a very nice Comet etched body with a heavily modified underframe. Thanks have to go to Mucky Duck in his Black 5 thread for the idea on this one! Completely changes the look of it. As for the trailing truck, I'm trying to find some suitable bolts/nuts to allow me to fit the pony wheel as they're not included in the kit (unless they've got lost). Yellow axle box cover yet to be painted..... More to come as and when I finish this, which needs to be in the next few days as it's one of the locos appearing in a photoshoot on Wednesday for Hornby Magazine.

Is that the shot in Footplate Cameraman by J R Carter by any chance? Highly useful book that! As far as other light loco pairings, there's a documented account (in an old Steam World mag) of a Grange, a Black 5 and a rebuilt Scot as light engines all coupled together. Not uncommon in the Chester area, especially if they were all heading to/from Chester shed (6A). Put it this way, it'd be worth doing at a show and see who bites first!

Ah yes, the bit that Hornby dropped a bit of a b*ll*ck with. AFAIK, all locos built after the war have it in a lower position on the smokebox. It is moveable though and just needs a scalpel blade inserted under it to prise it off. Best advice I can give is to check the instructions with the Brassmasters kit as I have a feeling it's mentioned where the change happens. Alternatively, the book on them by the same chaps (John Jennison etc) should have the requisite info. Cheers, Tim

I must admit, I do have a serious weakness for red Duchesses, this one being no exception. My 2nd favourite from the entire class - 46229 being my fave!

My current workbench incumbent: A much modified Hornby Duchess as one of the Ivatt pair, in this instance, 46256 Sir William A Stanier FRS. Now, I've long disliked the shade of BR Loco Red used by Hornby on any of their pacifics. It's darker than the BR coach maroon used by Bachmann on their darkest issues and has a horrible purple tint to it. In short, it's wrong! I've been yet to come across anyone who does the right shade (ie: badged as such) and I have a nasty feeling that most people just use BR maroon. Wrong again - it's BR loco red! Look in any colour books where the shot is taken in full sun with the colour as visible as possible and you'll see that the loco will always be lighter (and brighter) than the stock behind it. Cue endless debate on colour and films - that's for another day So, what to use? Most of my repainted coaching stock is given Humbrol 20 - a colour that works and looks spot-on for BR coach maroon. As said before, loco red is both lighter and brighter, but not by much. Coach crimson, as marketed by both Phoenix and Railmatch, is darker than it should really be. Proof, if it were needed, that colour doesn't scale. Just so happens that the above shade of red is near enough to BR loco red. I've chosen the Railmatch version, though there's very little difference between the two, aside from the former having a bit more richness to it. Here's the comparison between RTR and repainted. Now, in bright sunlight, it does look very red, which slightly alarms me, but it'll probably look totally different once lined out and toned down with some thin grimy washes. Going by the front cover of Power of the Duchesses, it's about right. More to come when I've finished it - the tender is being built this week (hopefully). Thoughts/comments?

Couldn't agree more. It's 8 years old now too, so it's about right! While they're at it, they can sort that blasted tender out. One shouldn't have to take a Stanley knife to a model in this fashion, costing what it does!