Pixie

I think they'd drop in no problem, sounds like you've got a scheme Bernard! Any news on those buffers btw? That'd make sense Andy - I've certainly not heard of an 88 in 2mm before. I've got that Moseley book, very useful stuff. I'm slowly transfering their drawing into AutoCAD, got far enough last night to check that my ideal will all fit. Good news is it does! I'd be very interested to see it if you pull it off! Pix

Thanks Missy! I'd be keen to see that little shunter of yours, from the photos it looks very impressive. Will you be at RailEx at all? Also be interested to see the 88DS kit you mention, I didn't know anyone had done one in 2mm! BHE have done the 48DS but if they've done the 88DS then it could save me some work. A self propelled wagon is certainly possible... not sure how you'd do the horse though! Sorry Kris, I guess they were a little misleading. It was more to show that the gearboxes could be hidden by the W irons of the smallest wagons, could be useful if we can figure out how to make that 2mm horse though. Pix

Afternoon all, Notice anything special about this little mineral? How about now?! Whilst browing the internet last weekend I found a Polish company called MikroAntriebe that offers all kinds of teeny, tiny bits an pieces that look useful for small models. As well as M0.1 and M0.2 gears and 3.2mm diameter motors, were these little 1:15 ratio gearboxes. I'm yet to give them a full test but they look like they could have potential for underfloor DMU motorisation, small shunters or perhaps motorised wagons if modelling fly or horse shunting. B) I quite fancy trying to do a little 2mm Ruston 88DS (Perhaps like Reading Signal Works 20 - http://www.railbrit....e2.php?id=22413) which I think would be possible. I'm still musing ideas but I tihnk i'm favouring introducing a third gearbox to put the motor vertically in the cab. This would mean I could fill the entire bonnet with lead for traction and no doubt hide the motor with a tubby driver. Using two sets of gearboxes would mean a 1:225 reduction but if used with a Nigel Lawton micromotor would give a scale top speed of 14mph. Will it work? Is it practical? Not sure, but I fancy giving it a go. B) OMS - Pix

Excellent - looking forward to August! If you come across those drawings drop me a PM, they spark some inspiration! Pix

Five pints and some gentle persuassion at the next available oppourtunity should do the trick... or Malibu, seem to remember you've got a good stash of that. Top work Jo, looking forward to seeing it in the flesh! Let me know how you get on with the 08 rods and if you need anymore or the tubing to pack out the crankpin holes for that matter. Pix PS - Have you still got a copy of those Yeoman wagon drawings that used to be on your Fotopic?

Not sure Mike - I've built all the stock I need for Parkend really (apart from Bryn's sexy Herrings which I'm waiting for) but I've got a stash of other bits to keep me entertained for a while. Wagonwise, there's a big pile of Bernard Taylor's STEEL AB bodies and 2mm Association air braked chassis to model the Ravenscraig to Margam flow or Stephen's Iron Ore tipplers to model one of the Llanwern flows. I should probably finish off my class 14 chassis etches too so I've got something to move these about! Decisions, decisions! Pix

Glad it's of use gents! Get me onto Coldplay or why Katy Perry is snuggling up to Russell Brand each night and not moi.... I'm sure I can produce a rant with enough swearing to get thrown out then. Pix

Evening all, The home straight! Here's the final few bits to add to the wagon before it's fully finished. Tools are the same as before, and the time is about half an hour or so. No prepartory consumables this time, although a good blast of Muse at Glastonbury 2004 does help things along ( - B) B) B)) . Some of the bits and pieces are getting very small here, but they're not more tricky to use than anything before and there is spares of some just in case it goes wrong. So, here goes.... Step 1: Snip the lever guard off the etch and fold up using the same rule as before (fold lines on inside of bend). Place into the solebar located to the right of the wagon, when viewed side on. Add a blob of solder from behind the solebar to hold in place. Step 2: Snip the brake lever off the etch. Add a bend in the right hand end where it flattens out. Tin the rear of the pivot end (on the left) and both sides on the right hand side. Slide lever into the lever gaurd you attached in Step 1. Heat the pivot end to laminate it to the V hanger. Heat the right hand end. Fold the small strengthener (Attached to the right hand side of the right hand W iron) to meet the lever guard, then solder. Step 3: Collect the bufferbeams and coupling hooks from the safe storage place. Using two pins (Peco track pins are a good fit!), place them through the buffer holes and align with main wagon body. Heat with soldering iron to laminate. Remove pins. Carefully open up buffer holes with a 0.7mm drill, then do the smame with a 0.8mm one. Add buffers and coupling hooks, solder from behind. Step 4: Insert wheels. Step 5: Done, finito, finished. Couplers of choice can be fitted (DGs are popular in 2mm, although 3-links are cool for fixed rakes B)) and painting/weathering. For transfers, I can recommend Fox and CCT (I've not seen the Modelmaster ones from the NGS, but I've joined today so I'll report back!). So that's it, I really hope this has been of us and tempted some people to have a go. For those people, here's some useful links: http://2mm.org.uk/ - The 2mm Association. Self explanitory really! The magazine and Yearbook alone are worth the membership fee. Access to the Association shops and products are worth their weight in gold! The wagon shop (http://2mm.org.uk/products/shops.php?shop_num=2) has a massive range of useful goodies. http://2mm.org.uk/small_suppliers/stephenharris/index.htm - Stephen Harris' kits. The 16T mineral can be seen about three quarters of the way down the page, along with prices and ordering details. The kits are designed for Stephen's own use really, rather than a commercial venture, sowhat's in stock can depend on what he's been building! Very decent chap though and if youdo give him a call, mention Steve Nicholls (my alterego ) sent you. Feedbacks always appreciated and if there's anything that isn't clear I'll try grabbing some more photos, let me know. Happy modelling! Pix

Afternoon Pugs... looks superb as ever! You've achieved a loverly, subtle effect that I've not seen before in a model.B) Good to hear the JSV is going well - I passed a little through my airbrush last night and I'm also very happy with the results. The guys in the R&D lab have hinted that the varnish is a reformulation which could be coming to market soon. Once it's got a trade name I'll let y'all know! Have you ever experimented with inks at all? I was looking at some eariler and I think they might have some uses. Pix

Standard issue Antex - I avoided using the RSU as I know not everyone has access to one. Pix

I apologise in advance for making the place look scruffy. I could bring mine if it'd be of use? Pix

Due to the size of the bits in 2mm I mostly use a little set of jewellers pliers with smooth jaws - I'll grab a snap of them later on. For the bigger stuff I tend just to drop it in the vice and bend it. Good quality nickel silver and correct size fold lines with perferations certainly helps on the solebars! AS Kris reposted (Thanks Kris!) most of the tools I've mentioned in the posts. I can't think of anything off hand that I forgotten but if I come across something I'll add it to the thread. One useful item is the little pots of solder tip cleaner (This stuff - http://www.maplin.co.uk/tip-tinner-cleaner-3929), although it looks expensive it's brilliant stuff and lasts a long time. For anyone interested I was thinking of supplying one of the minerals, wheels, bearings and buffers at cost price to give a taster... I'd probably also throw in a membership form for the 2mm Association for when it gets addictive. More of a gesture than any kind of retailing service but drop me a PM if you're interested. Ahh right, that makes sense as I think I got the Fertiliser vans from BHE. I might have to try a few others in his range at somepoint, Bryn's had nice results with the Medfit. Bryn and I will be hiding behind Highbury Colliery... Come and say Hi!B) Pix

Thanks for all the comments guys, sorry it's taken me a little longer to reply to them all! How did you find them? I've got a couple of his Fertiliser wagons to build for a friend which are very basic, I did start to draw up some etches to make them easier and more accurate but I'm starting to think a whole kit could be easier! I've been twittering on about building Parkend Marsh Sidings for a long time and after a bit of bullying I decided to bite the bullet. There's a lot of very tasy, very modellable locations within the forest, it'd be nice to have a garage or something to model them all in! If you want I'll pop some of my slightly revised bufferbeams in the post to your rents, how many do you need? Haha... Maybe I should put a bottle whiskey, twenty Royals and book of black magic in the first photo of the final section to regain that illussion Give it a go... g'worn. If you're ever back in Bracknell give us a shout (or if you can offer a tour around St. Philips Marsh ), I'll throw a couple your way! He kept to his word on coming to Taunton if we invited those girls from that Black 5 photo...! Maybe I'll send him panels 1 and 2 from each kit and the rest after the 4mm 16T has been done. We'll continue the bullying at Railex. Well, when we go upto Bryn's the 2mm have the Central Shop at the show. There's all world of goodies to be had there! Pix

Morning all, Thanks for all the nice comments so far, I'm really pleased that my scribblings are of interest. I'll reply to the individual comments during my lunch break tomorrow, I should probably get some decent shut eye before work tomorrow! In this installment I'm going to cover the folding and fitting of the chassis and sole bars, plus the adding of the brakes and springs. I've decided to model the most common varient of 16T for this wagon with the one sided Morton brakes, but the principles for the other variations is exactly the same. All of this is possible in one episode of The Young Ones, so about half an hour. Tools are as before, apart from the addition of the bench vice. Phase 2 - Running Gear Step 1: Based on yesterdays experience, gather supplies. Step 2: Snip the main chassis piece off of the etch. Fold down the W irons, bufferbeams and central brake gear locating lugs. Fold out the eight bodyside supports. For all folds the etched groove should be on the inside of the bend. Tin the underside of the chassis and both sides of the W irons. Snip off the tie-bar. Solder bearings into the W-irons and another two in the holes at each end of the chassis (Opps... I'd forgotten to do this before I took the photo, sorry!). Step 3: Using the two bearings at the ends of the chassis floor, align the chassis with the body. Use soldering iron to heat and laminate the two. Once cooled, the locating bearings can be removed or left in, I chose to remove them. Step 4: Remove the solebars from the etch. Using a bench vice (A real how-did-I-get-by-without-this-before tool, only £3 from the local cheapo shop too!), make the first two rough bends to form the U shape. Then place over a former or the right size and place into the vice again, I use an old file that's gummed up with solder for this. Tighten and remove. Tin rear. Step 5: Place solebars onto the model, the gaps in the solebar locate with the body supports. Use soldering iron to heat and laminate them too the main chassis etch. Also tin the underside of the brake etch and attach to the model using the same method. Add a small length of 0.33 wire for brake rod. Step 6: Collect springs and axleboxes from safe keeping place. Place onto model and heat. Add obligitary 10p pence to give sense of scale. Step 7: Leave workbench and head towards pub for well earned refreshment. Post progress on RMweb upon return. In the final section, it's just a case of adding the buffer beams, buffers and the brake levers. I think this'll take about the same time again, giving a build time of around two hours not particularly hard graft. Hope this all helps! Boomshanka, Pix

B) Any chance of a video? Hope craigwelsh is reading this... Pix

...well, how I build them anyway, complete with bodging, fudging and swearing! As promised, here's a quick photo build of a Stephen Harris BR 16t mineral. I hope that these photos will demonstrate how simple these are, if I'm honest building one is easier done than said! In this post I've just covered the building of the body and the axleboxes, if there's demand I'll cover the chassis and all the other bits. I've also avoided mentioning about cleaning up tabs and checking if holes need opening up, I'll leave that down to common sense. Required tools? I'd say a soldering iron, little file, knife and a pair of pliers. Solder and flux of choice too! To the build...! Step 1: Obtain essentials. In hindsight, I don't really recommend nettle beer. Tea would have been a better choice, especially if biscuits can be sourced. Step 2: Separate the four 'panels' of the little etch and remove the brakes, coupling hooks, bufferbeams and other details from the panels labelled Layer 1, Layer 2 and Layer 3. Take Layer 2 (Middle right) and tin both sides of the bodywork ribs and springs. On Layer 3 (Foreground) solder a standard 2mm Association bearing cup (So the 'top hat' shape is upside down if looking from the text side of the etch) in the holes in the corners of the panel. Step 3: Using the bearings, line up the three layers. Move the soldering iron over each rib and spring to laminate the layers together. Watch the bodywork appear from nowhere. Sip beer. Step 4: Now have a look at the springs and axleboxes. Fold the 'packing piece' (attached to the bottom of the axlebox - visible in above photo) up and then fold the 'top detail layer over' (Located to the right of the axlebox in the above photograph). Snip off from etched sandwhich and put somewhere safe. Step 5: Remove main body from the three layers. Snip the floor off the forth panel and tin one side - there is a choice of bottom doors or without, I've decided to use the side with. Step 6: Fold up the four walls of the body and run a small bead of solder down each corner. Fold over the four 'wings' (Visible above on the ends) and solder on. Drop the floor in and heat from below to laminate. If you want to represent a beaten example, it's worth bulging out the sides now with a pencil or similar. ...and that's it, body done! I'm adament that anyone can build one of the little 16T's and the chassis is just as straight forward. Timewise, I'd finished the body before the CD had got to the last song, and that includes taking photos and hunting for my 2mm bearings. If anyone would be interested in having a go, let me know and I can probably supply the bits and pieces needed. If there's interest, I'll cover the chassis in the next few days. Feedbacks appreciated as ever! Boomshanka, Pix

Now you're talking - a 59 in Yeoman livery with a long rake of the O&K boxes would be very cool! It's not a huge help but I've recently been working on etches to produce a much lower geared 37 chassis with Simpson springing, I can't think of any reason why it couldn't be rearranged to a 59 wheelbase. With a little ingenuity and careful drilling, extended axles could be used to give rotating external axleboxes.... there's an idea! Thanks for the comments James! The sides are certainly the best option for a scale look, being able to ding and dent them as well is very, very cool too! Pix

There's shiney Mk1s and various clay wagons out there.... Man up. You earn your dollar, you'll spend your dollar. Parkend eventually, although I just enjoy building them to be honest! Are you Showcasing this year my good man? Pix

Excellent idea Brynlar - I'll crack open a bottle of something nice, stick a CD on loud and take some photos tonight... Pix

It probably felt a little bit David meeting Goliath... Perhaps I should model a little teeny tiny one on the cab step of my D9555, much like http://xkcd.com/878/. How hard can 1/23104th modelling be? If I'm honest Kris, they were done over about three or four nights. Sadly my turn around time isn't that good, otherwise I'd be matching BR's turnaround time! B) They were drawn up in AutoCAD then PPD did all the hard work. I have heard of people doing home etching but I think I'll leaving messing around with etching chemicals to the professionals. Pix

I'm fairly certain that JSV is spirit based from what the guys in R&D told me, might be worth trialling a little bit before commiting the whole lot though just in case. I have got a little bottle of thinning agent from them so if you need some let me know and I'll pop it in the post. I managed to get a set of oil paints last night, I'll let you know how I get on! Pix

Ball cocks - I bet you the cost of the kit you can.... G'worn, it's a win-win situation! Pix PS - Excellent to meet you at Taunton Nick, must do that pint sometime!

Evening All, Just though I'd start of a little thread about some of the things I'll be fumbling my way through in this wee little scale. Like many things in life, it's quite an addicitive! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/cool.png I'm currently working on 25 Stephen Harris 16T minerals - these little kits really are the dogs meatballs and I recommend them to anyone who fancy having a go in 2mm or an etched kit. These have been built more or less as they were designed, although I did etch my own bufferbeams as the the holes for the buffers in the ones supplied are a tad small. It's more out of laziness of opening them up than the kit being flawed though! When I started on these kits, I had a grand plan to work on them in batches to try and have a good turn around and whilst I think it probably has been quicker, I don't know if it's helped my mental health. Soldering up around 100 axle boxes has been an interesting experience! Strange really, as this time last year I was writing a dissertation about why batch production was the bee's knees... http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/687/dscf3063m.jpg And in true Blue Peter style, here's some I prepared earlier. Seems there's a little bit of a gauge issue... http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/2607/dscf2922x.jpg OMS - http://www.youtube.c...h?v=yTRI81tlgqw Boomshanka, Pix