buffalo

Sitting here with the brake gear from three different locos within reach, I can entirely sympathise with your comments about realism, separation, shorting etc. What I've tried to do, following the example of a couple of High Level chassis kits, is to make the whole lot removable. By not soldering the hangers to their pivots, they can be sprung on of off as needed should you want to remove the wheels. The connection between the pull rod(s) and the cross-shaft levers is also not soldered so that the whole brake gear can be hinged out of the way for access to the wheels. Another possibility is that Alan Gibson lists injection moulded plastic brake gear that can be placed close to the wheels without shorting. I've not tried these and there are not many types; the only diesel type is for an 03 (knowing almost nothing about diesels, I've no idea how closely these would match your little beastie). Nick

2009-11-28: Brief update added at end of this entry. Since the last entry I've made some progress on the IKB U28 kit. The body is now complete and internal partitions have been added using 10 thou brass. I mentioned that I'd just started this kit, but I also have a separate chassis like the one in this kit that I built about a year ago. It has been languishing at the back of the bench since then because I was never happy with the suspension system. It has sprung internal hornblocks which I could not get to move freely enough. At any one time some would be fine but not all six. At present it needs some minor repairs to the brake rigging and I may try some alternative suspension methods. Still, for now it will do to stand the coach body on for photographic purposes. So here is the current state of play; oil lamps to be fitted on the roof, then a little more stray solder to remove before a final clean and priming of the body, then I'll have to think about the chassis. Update 2009-11-28: Today the minor repairs to the chassis have been done. A couple of the pins in the outside clasp brake linkage and a couple of safety straps underneath have been replaced. I've also been tweaking the hornguides and think it may now be possible to get the IKB springing working. Captive nuts have been added to the inner false ends so that all can be screwed together. On the roof, holes have been drilled and seven of the eight oil lamps fitted. Unfortunately, one of the angled bases for the lamps disappeared towards the floor and, despite several sessions on my hands and knees, has not yet reappeared. Past experience suggests that it will remain hidden until I've made a replacement Although they are shown in the kit instructions, the small filler caps that sit next to the large oil lamp pots were not included in the kit, so I'll have to make these. I've not decided yet whether to make them from brass or plastic rod.

Rummaging through my coach bits box this afternoon I discovered that this was completely wrong :icon_redface: The ones which will appear on the U28 are the IKB variety included in the kit, but they came without separate filler caps. Those on the W1 are in fact MJT components from Dart Castings (Item no 2947). These do come with the fillers. Nick

It looks to me like he thinks he might have shovelled it into the firebox Really enjoying this, Mikkel. It's great to see detailed shots of these lovely models and I, for one, am more than willing to turn a blind eye to your cavalier approach to mixing attractive prototypes. Who knows, one day I might finish something and be able to compose shots and stories like these. Nick

Thanks, Mikkel, maybe I'll look into it. I'd quite like a V5 anyway Nick

Hi Mikkel, Originally, I was just trying to identify the type and was musing about whether it could be another Ratio hack using parts from the brake and the all third. Now, thanks to the Didcot example, we can call it a T49 rather than just a T? The duckets then arose as a secondary issue. For most cases, I think you can probably get away with the over-simplistic duckets on the Ratio brake, but here, they are rather exposed at the ends and, as others have suggested, the Ratio ones may not be up to scratch. Thanks for the reminder about Shirescenes. I had wondered about whether any of their sides could be adapted, but hadn't gone any further down that route as all this year their web site has said: "FROM JANUARY 2009 UNTIL EASTER SHIRE SCENES WILL BE MOVING TO THE NEW ADDRESS ABOVE. DURING THIS TIME THE BUSINESS WILL BE CLOSED. WE WILL POST OUR RE-OPENING ON THIS SITE." As nothing further has appeared, I wonder whether they are still in business. I've not seen any other source of suitable etched duckets. Nick

All those I've found in photos, even the BG ones, are three-arc but it keeps coming back to the duckets... Excellent! Thanks for the link, I hadn't realised they were doing this. Nick

Thanks both for the encouragement Yes, they are rather good castings. The only problem is that from one end it is difficult to see which way up they are meant to be. The other end and the face are fine. I was thinking along similar lines and have various bits and pieces I might try. At present the main problem is not rollability but smooth vertical movement of the sprung hornblocks. Yes, but for these I just dipped the iron in the pot when tinning the backs of the mouldings. I then used plenty of flux on the recess in the body, clipped the bolection on with an aluminium hair grip and applied heat from the inside. Yes, the body ends, inner ends and chassis all have matching holes so that all three parts can be bolted together. You can see the chassis holes on top just behind the buffer beam either side of the safety chains. I expect this arrangement to be very helpful when it comes to painting. You've also reminded me that I need to solder the captive nuts on the inner ends. No partitions or other internal detail are provided. Nick

Excellent, thanks, Miss P Although I'd seen Russell's fig 45 which I think is the same coach as in fig 38, I hadn't noticed the broadside view in fig 59. Obviously too busy looking for duckets which had been removed in this later shot. Why I assumed they were six wheelers, I don't know. A closer look at the Camerton photo shows that one to be a four wheeler, though it's not possible to tell in the photos. So this is the lot listed as diagram T.? in Harris, again, I'd been looking for six wheelers. Yes, the ducket end panels might be a problem... Nick

Over on my workbench blog, I've recently shown a few 4rmm GWR four and six-wheel coaches and vans under construction. However, I've been wondering about a particular type of six-wheel brake third that shows up in several photographs. These are four compartment vehicles with a pair of luggage doors and the guards duckets are flush with the end. Russell (Pictorial History of Great Western Coaches vol 1, fig 38) shows one of these in later life as a departmental or camping vehicle, and he remarks that it is an exception to the more normal arrangement of guards compartment. Vaughan (Pictorial History of Great Western Architecture, plate 107) shows one at Leamington Spa. Incidentally, this is a very useful picture for those interested in gas lighting and piping arrangements. Maggs & Beale (The Camerton Branch, p19) show one as part of a mixed train in a postcard view of Camerton station in about 1905. Several examples also show up in the well-known shots of the Swindon broad gauge sidings as convertibles with narrow bodies on wide BG frames. All of these are end or, at best, three-quarter, views so I would be interested to know of any broadside views of such stock that anyone has encountered. Does anyone have any idea of lot, diagram or running numbers? How about available 4mm kits? I've been thinking I might have a go at carving up some Ratio sides if nothing else is available. So, in a nutshell, any information about these types would be much appreciated. Nick

Thanks. That explains all. I'd not interpreted some of the earlier photos correctly as it looked to me like the rear hornblocks could move. Nick

That really does look good :icon_thumbsup2: As I said before, I do like these High Level chassis. The 6-wheel ones that I've built all have a rocking front axle and twin compensation beams between the middle and rear axles, acting on the hornblocks. This one looks different. It appears to have a central compensation beam between the middle and front axles, and something different from the usual High Level hornblocks on the rear axle. Can you explain how it works, please? So the rear pair of rods to the flycranks are soldered to the rear section of the main rods at the rear wheel crankpin boss, but just float over the actual flycrank? Cunning Nick

Thanks for that, it gives me the confidence to carry on and try to get it to work. What I didn't show was the other side where I'd tried this method but the paint was too runny... Yes, they are. I also have some from ABS, but the IKB ones look much better to me. The widths look fairly consistent on this one. Just as well, lining will be an adventure for me anyway Thanks for the comments and encouragement. Nick

Thanks for that pointer, as ever, Paul Bartlett's photos are a wonderful resource. One thing I'd not seen before was the wooden spacer between the brake pushrods... Nick

That's better than what I achieved so far with door hinges on the IKB 6-wheel coach I am building At least mine came with plenty of spares :icon_thumbsup2: Nick

The footboards are made from brass L-section (3x1.5mm, 0.38mm thick) cut to length, axle box clearance filed out and suspended on flattened brass wire brackets. I forget where the L-section came from, though Eileen's do it in this size. Nick

Good to see these here, Mikkel :icon_thumbsup2: I have an almost complete V1 that was inspired by seeing yours on gwr.org. I've added brass footboards to replace the too delicate Ratio items and used parts from Mainly Trains etches and an ABS brake cylinder to make a reasonably detailed underframe. The remaining parts of the Ratio sides and a second roof have been cobbled together to make a T20 which has a central guard/luggage compartment and two thirds either side. One day, I'll finish them but I doubt my painting will be as good as yours. Just to prove I prefer building to painting, I've just started on an IKB brass kit of a U28 6-wheel clerestorey luggage composite. For some reason I prefer brakes, parcels and luggage vans to plain passenger coaches, though how I'll make a realistic rake out of them... Nick

Almost a month later and I'm still not sure about the blog format. I like the page layout, and indexes do help to provide structure, but it lacks the flow that can be achieved in a forum. Having to go backwards and forwards between different entries breaks the flow -- is it really appropriate to post new comments like this, on an 'old' entry? Anyway, Stephen, thanks for the kind comments. I do, however, think it is possible to add images. They just have to be linked using a URL rather than attached as can be done elsewhere. Nevertheless, I doubt if the structure will really support wide ranging discussions like the one we had on CSB on the old forum Nick

Yes, Mikkel, I entirely agree. Somehow, once they started replacing the coal rails with side sheets, I think they started to lose some of their elegance. This form is about the earliest that can be built with the Finney kit, although it could be backdated slightly by building without the water scoop. What I would really like is one of the earlier generation of tenders with the pierced frames. IIRC they were originally built to go with the Armstrong goods and its contemporaries, but many of them were re-used on the Deans in their early years. Nick

Isn't it called a web browser? What else do you need? Nick

Looks good. I certainly agree with you about the High Level chassis. So far, I've built a pug and 14XX and have a Collett goods and pannier to do. Nick

Thanks, Adrian. I don't think I've come across that usage before, hence the confusion. Nick

Very inspiring :icon_thumbsup2: The 4 plank, cordon and V2 (I think) are all on my list of things I want to build. They'll be in 4mm so if they look half as good as yours, I'll be pleased. btw I've always wondered about the tilt wagon. What were they used for? The name and shape implies that they could be rolled over. If so, how? Nick

I finally finished making and fitting the lamp sockets to the 2500 gallon tender, so it is now ready for painting. The engine and tender have been scrubbed with 'Bar Keepers Friend' and warm water, and are now drying after rinsing in cellulose thinners. In the meantime, I'm trying to warm the garage sufficiently to get a coat of primer on before it gets dark and the temperature drops. This was the state of the tender and its chassis a little earlier this afternoon. Nick

Thanks, Mikkel. I noticed that you have an Armstrong goods, another of my favourites. Can you see the images? I can't... Nick