halfwit

I didn't think that possible! (Mind drifts to 3 truck Shay sitting in loft...) Presumably this is 10.5mm gauge?

2mm too wide, that's a whole foot! I'd have chopped it as well. This is why I wouldn't buy someone else's work. Just out of curiousity (I'm like that) are you fitting pick-ups to the tender? Oddly enough I've just finished turning bogie pivots as well today.

I had the pleasure of watching this little 'layout' work at Narrow Gauge North, and found it to be absolutely fascinating (and I'm sure that I wasn't the only one as there was a crowd in front of it all day).

Nothing at all! Great find though. Rudyard Lake was owned by the NSR and promoted as a leisure destination, so its logical that a couple of cast-off NSR coaches would find their way there to be used as chalets.

There's a pair sitting next to Rudyard Lake, not in the best of condition! Link.

Looks like a well thought out and usefull tool, one for me as well please.

Chimney? Have lathe will turn...

EN3b is good as well, but avoid EN8. (I used to turn for a living). My SL is a good little machine, but does have its limits, parting off anything over 10mm dia. is a bit fraught for example. Fits on the dining table though, and is fine the work I use it for. I thought that you had a c3?

The smallest Parkside make is 5.1mm dia., too big for you and you'd need to re-profile them anyway. I use Parkside tyres (for OO9) as I haven't got a profiling tool, and my Unimat probably isn't rigid enough to use one on. Araldite works on Acetal I've found, although its not supposed to apparently... Cutting out daylight under the boiler - takes me back to my teenage years butchering Jintys.

4mm n.g. wheelsets eh, I'll watch with interest. I made up some recently for a split frame chassis (outside framed) using Parkside tyres pressed onto turned brass bosses, fitted with silver steel stub axles which located into Acetal muffs. Worked quite well.

In hindsight I think that you're right Nick, a book would be too much. And as fewer modellers seem to be interested in making stuff these days it is doubtfull if one would sell anyway! But I have found it frustrating trying to track down info on turning boiler fittings in the smaller scales. I spent 19 years working as a turner, on machines of various sizes (Colchester M300 to Binns & Berry long bed TB707) and there is a big difference between turning, for example, cast steel pump impellers and aluminium rollers to close tolerences on industrial machines and brass chimneys for OO9 locos on a little Unimat that sits on the dining table!

Not books on lathework, but 'The 4mm Engine', and 'Model Locomotive Construction' both by Guy Williams cover turning boiler fittings, as does 'A Guide to Locomotive Building' by Mike Sharman. Both authers have differing ideas on approaching the job, which is no bad thing. 'The Amateur's Lathe' (L.H. Sparey) looks like a good starter on lathework, I have a copy but have yet to sit down and read it. David Fenner's 'The Mini-Lathe' is worthwhile if you either own or are thinking of owning a C3. Most lathework books are aimed at model engineers rather than railway modellers. There is I feel a gap in the market.

I bought my last bottle of flux from Eileen's (usual disclaimer) earlier this year by post with no problems, it would be worth contacting them to check that this is still the case.

Gaugemaster also make two types of flux, if you're lucky enough to have a local modelshop that stock G/master products they might sell it, or at least be able to order it in. As for why answer, the O.P. was polite and the answers could help others.

Eileen's Emporium. Suprised no-one else has mentioned them.

What a nice little project! You've made a very tidy start. Cranks can be made from suitable brass strip (1mm thick?). Mark out the strip, then drill the axle holes, then the crankpin holes using a little jig (see first photo here), then cut out each individual crank. A pillar drill makes life easy, but with care a pin vice would do the job. For 2mm I'd use a 1.9mm drill and open the axle holes up with a 5 sided cutting broach, that way you can be sure of a good fit without worrying about the drill cutting oversize. Here's some made for a Hunslet, and if you have a lathe life is even easier!

There's a nice little book (scroll down) on n.g. Rustons which might help clear up any confusion. (The other book at the top is worth adding to your library as well). Paul Windle used to make a RTR OO9 'streamlined' 40DL, handbuilt from plasticard. I'm not sure if it is still available, or even how to contact him... (doesn't do internet apparently).

Not a bad idea that Ozzyo, I might just give it a try. Thanks.

Many thanks to all that have taken time to reply. I've ordered the switch that I've linked to. PatB - I did consider a foot switch, I have one on my RSU. The dogs sometimes stand on it, not much of a problem when soldering but dog activated lathes would be quite a different matter!

Hi Pete, By in-line I mean that it has to be part of the mains cable, like a lamp switch. I can't find any double pole ones though so Ive ordered the one in the link above. To use the machine (Unimat SL, mine's here) as a mill the entire headstock including motor is unbolted from the machine bed and set up on a column which means that the switch cannot be fixed in one position.

I've recently bought myself a Unimat, and I want to change the power switch. The machine is bolted to a wooden baseboard and has a switch screwed to the board, limiting the use of the machine as I cannot move the motor and set up the machine as a mill (its in lathe mode at the moment). I want to fit an in-line rocker type, which is what would have been fitted originally. The motor is rated at 90 watts and runs on 230 volts. Does anyone know if a standard lighting type 6A/250V switch would be suitable? (This is the type I have in mind.)

RT Models have now released etched motion and sideframes for the L&M locos designed to be used with the Farish 08.

Brian - those brake cylinders need to be rotated by 90 degrees so that the mountings are at the sides.

I did a step by step on me blog Mozzer. Its not for the faint-hearted but with work does build into a nice wagon. But the kit ain't for a Summers wagon, its pure ICI.

Superb work Nick, and nicely explained. You're right, a Hold & Fold would have done the trick on the solebars, I used mine to bend the solebars on my RT Models Hudson side tippers. A small point though, and pardon me for being picky, but there doesn't seem to be any means of opening the doors... Paul.