halfwit

DW, I think this one cost me about

The grass looks a little too long for a caravan site to be honest (sorry!), most keep the grass pretty short, and I'm sure that would have been the case in the period that you're modelling. It might be an idea to have a few caravan sized patches of light, discoloured grass where a caravan has sat for a week. Also, caravanners are mostly neat freaks and tend to park in nice orderly rows. Paul, who prefers a Tentipi and thinks that sleeping in aluminium boxes is a bit weird...

Another one of my more lighthearted models. As I have the Ratio Huntsman's Ales and Badger Beer vans I decided to add the Harvey's Bristol Cream van to my collection. I found an unbuilt kit on Ebay just before Christmas, which is now built and sitting in my display cabinet. Unlike the other two, which are based on a GWR van, this one is based on Ratio's LMS ventilated van. The quality of printing is very good, better that the two beer vans; I'm not convinced by the shell vents on the roof, if I was building one of these for serious use I'd look at replacing them. As with the others this is fitted with Gibson EM wheels and Smiths couplings (screw link, modified using Captain Kernow's method) so could see layout use if I wanted to irk the purists. I've said before that I put as much effort into these less serious subjects as I do with my other modelling, in reflection I reckon that more care is needed with these pre-printed vans, after all it would be all too easy to spoil the finish with a drop too much glue. I think that Ratio only did four decorated 12T vans, the other being a BOCM van, of which I have an unbuilt example waiting in the queue. There was also a small range of pre-printed iron minks, in Ferrocrete, GN and GWR improvised gunpowder van liveries (there may be others), all based in reality as far as I know. Paul.

The latest issue of Railway Bylines (Volume 18: Issue 4 March 2013) includes a photo of a shunting tractor pulling a 16t mineral across a road in Dundee.

There's an interesting standard gauge pugbash tram engine in a photo on the cover of an awfull scenery* book that I like the look of which is made from two kits, double cabbed similar to a LNER Y10 Sentinel. Like yours it has open backed cabs. One day I mean to make my own version as a lighthearted project. Paul. *One of a couple of books that I keep simply because they're so bad.

Pugbashing - there's a controversial subject if ever there was one in n.g. circles! Nice job though, and the open water filler is a nice touch. The new cab front suits the loco well, but I have to say that the rivets do look a touch too large (sorry!). Paul.

I'd agree with Mikkel, it does look good. You do need decent photos when modelling dry stone walls as there's a large variation in styles as well as colouring according to local materials and building styles. For example, here in the Peak District we have walls made from gritstone and from limestone, which are markedly different. Paul.

Looks interesting. Hopefully we'll see a Judith Edge Hunslet appearing at some stage... Paul.

Jan - I can't fault the design so far. As for the builder, well he's nowt special... More details on 1/108 brake gear please - I have a few Airfix minerals which only need brakes fitted before finishing. Paul.

Pleased to hear that your finding it interesting Paul, I do wonder if I go into too much detail sometimes... Yes, those etches are as good as they look! Only the bare minimum of fettling has been necessary so far, and thats mostly been filing off cusp. I have opened out the fold lines with a square file as n/s is quite hard to bend compared to brass. Paul.

The chassis' now have bufferbeams, solebars and axleboxes. The bufferbeams are built up from 3 main parts, as well as seperate drawplates and coupling hooks. The first job was to bend up the main part of the 'beam, after punching out no less than 22 rivets; Note that there are two sets of locating slots, to suit either the OO or EM/P4 frames. At this stage I fitted the drawplates and coupling hooks whilst I could still access the inside of the 'beam for soldering the coupling hooks from the inside. The next step is to solder on the bottom plate, which has slots etched into it to allow the 'beams to be filled with liquid lead; Note the half etched channel to help to locate the part centrally. The top plate needs bending as this is also the plate that the tipper body rests on. Then it can be soldered in place, again there's a half etched locating channel; I found it best to fold the smaller upper bend of the channel first. Solebars next, and more rivets to punch out before bending it into a channel section, here shown soldered in place; Onto the axleboxes. The instructions show the bearings being fitted though the axlebox etch from the outside and locating into the frames, however I found the bearings to be a little short so I soldered them into the frames from the inside, then fitted the axlebox etches in place over the protruding bearing; The axleboxes themselves have to be folded flat with the fold line on the outside before they're ready for fitting. Again all soldering done with a 25W Antex and 188 degree solder. So far so good, but there's still lots more to add! Anyone bored yet? Paul.