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Gordon A

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Posts posted by Gordon A

  1. If the set up in your picture works for you then continue using it.

    I tend to drive off one end of the stretcher bar with some flexibility between the stretcher bar and the remote operating unit.

    This allows me to have the operating unit to be adjusted to give a bit more travel than required which ensures the blade is held firmly against either stock rail.

     

    • Like 1
  2. Inside valve gear will restrict any side play on that axle.

    When converting locos or building chassis you need to ensure that there is sufficient side play and clearances in the splashers.

    Are you talking about the minimum radius on plain track or in points as well.

    Building a section of test track including a point to 3 foot radius may answer your question.

    On plain track consider following the prototype approach by fitting a continuous check rail.

     

    Gordon A

  3. 37 minutes ago, ianmaccormac said:

    I sent two emails a couple of weeks ago, one with the order and half the payment details, and the second with the rest of it. I received my goods four days later. No issues at all. Excellent service. Thanks.

     

     

    How did you split the payment details please?

  4. Look at Clutton. Tim Venton devised a system for automatically moving trains up in a storage yard loop.

    All the locos in one loop were programmed with the same number, which in Clutton's case was the number of the loop.

    Realistic top speeds were programmed in the locomotive's chip. This meant that when operating storage loops with more than one train, the departing train was driven at full speed out, which gave enough power for the remaining trains to shuffle up.

    I think Tim used JMRI for the route selection.

  5. "So the latest is that the siding has been laid and ballasted but rails and chairs not painted. Start made to main line (yes I know main line is pushing it a bit). Initial template and sleepers laid. Rails are temporarily in place to check clearance.

     

    Also a bit of cheque book modelling in the form of a Dapol Rectangular Tank wagon. Well I was in town and just happened to pop into Antics and there it was. Anyway NEM pockets and coupling removed, OO wheels replaced, three links and new coupling hook, bit of additional weight and just a very slight scrape of the brake shoes with a scalpel blade. Job done (well perhaps a bit of further  weathering to the weathered factory finish) and for £17 quid I’m quite happy. You probably weren’t aware that Ruyton just up the line had a small Gas works!"

     

    345602201_IMG_3998(002).JPG.1b5a863ad49f8be01b7b1cdf7b3296f1.JPG

     

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    Gordon A (Press agent)

    • Like 13
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  6. Don't get too depressed.

    You have the basics of a good chassis kit and gearbox as a starter. You can try the motor you have and if it does not perform as good as you wish it can be changed later on.

    Markit wheels are self quartering and set the correct back to back. Remember to order EM axles. 

    The GW jig aids the consistent quartering of the Gibson wheels on the axle, which are not self quartering.

     

    If you posses a pillar drill you could make a simple jig by drilling three 1/8" holes in straight line spaced exactly to match the wheelbase of the loco in a flat piece of plywood. Carefully push the jig axles with the tapered ends into the holes.

    This can be used to set up the horn blocks for the compensated axles. I would not cut out the back axle holes as they can be used as reference point.

    A small engineers square would be useful in ensuring that assemble the chassis so that it is square.

     

    The other tools would be useful if you are looking to build more than one EM loco compensated or sprung.

     

    My understanding about building in EM is that you can build the chassis without any compensation or springing.

     

    Gordon A

  7. 5 hours ago, WM183 said:

    Hi guys,

    Thanks much! I will search for some of those springs. That makes things much easier, and I will read the instructions through several times, and go step by step. I am not in any hurry!

    The screws do line up. And I do have some screws! I have a small stash of Mashima motors, 1015s, 1020s, and this little open frame one, and have some of the mounting screws too. I believe the High Level gearbox was designed for Mashima motor screw spacing?

    Thanks guys!

    Amanda

    Yes, Chris used to stock Mashima motors.

  8. More progress on Ruyton Road. The points have been glued in position. Also in the pictures is some pictures of the kit built stock that will be running on this layout when the conversion is completed. Also the brick built hut has been replaced as it would have been out of period.

     

     

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    • Like 13
    • Craftsmanship/clever 5
  9. 22 hours ago, 5050 said:

    The one on the RH driver's side - which, on reflection, I now presume to be the steam heat one?

    Sorry Paul, I think I may be wrong in what I said.

    Looking at other pictures of other 57xx / 8750 Panniers which show the steam heat pipe runs down the LHS, the fireman's side. The steam heat pipe is often a smaller diameter pipe than the vacuum pipe.

    Gordon A

    • Like 1
  10. 1 hour ago, 5050 said:

    Just done a bit of 'tinternet trawling for suitable photos showing the boxes and drawn a bit of a blank.  However, I did come across this -

     

    https://www.minervamodelrailways.co.uk/uncategorized/pannier-images/

     

    They appear to include a box as an optional item to be fitted by the owner so - does anyone know if it is an accurate representation?  I would assume that Minerva have modelled it on an actual prototype but is it a BR (WR) one or a preservation era one?

     

    EDIT - and this one -

     

    https://www.rail-online.co.uk/p416923824/hA0FFAA20#hcddf0568

     

    The box appears to be the same as the Minerva one so I've probably answered the question myself!  However, the vacuum pipe seems to be taking a very circuitous route to reach the rear buffer beam.

    Vacuum pipe or are you looking at the steam heat pipe in the above photo?

    • Like 1
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