rovex

The wheelbase thought occurred to me too. However the Hall chassis, should give you the correct connecting rods and valve gear (or be as near as makes no odds) and have the pistons in the right place, whereas the castle pistons are too close to the cab? I don't trust my scrathbuilding on the cab - but its a thought. Rovex

I've posted this here as well as in the topic on the Hornby Saint and hope the administrators will forgive me the duplication, on reflection it seemd more appropriate here on my blog. I think I may also have to change the blog title if thats permitted, since I seem to be straying from the title topic, how about "building all things GW"? Anyway I've been doing a bit of thinking and am wondering whether I can make a hash at a model of a Saint as follows. Bachman Hall - rewheeled with correct or approaching correct size wheels. Cut off the cab and cut out the boiler, discard running plate. keep boiler - might have to use the older modified Hall as running plate on new Hall I seem to recall is metal - Course this depends on the modified Hall having the right wheelbase. Use footplate of Hornby Castle (I've got a spare body. This gives the correct depth to the curve on the front of the footplate. Probably cut of splashers, make good and refit in correct place and probably cut down a bit, remove and filler where the inside pistons project onto footplate Extend firebox on Hall boiler by about 2 mm, this should give it the correct length, rest of boiler dimensions seem OK. Replace cab with correct pattern (probably old 4-4-0 County one). Replace buffers, chimney and saftey valve as required. It probably wouldn't win any prizes but I think it might give a passable representation, the cost might be prohibitive, but I'd try and pick up the bits off ebay. And given the costs of even badly built saints on ebay is in excess of 70/80 quid (and there are based on the old B12 chassis and thus incorrect) it might work out cheaper Any thoughts? Rovex

I've been doing a bit of thinking and am wondering whether I can make a hash at a model of a saint as follows. Bachman Hall - rewheeled with correct or approaching correct size wheels. Cut off the cab and cut out the boiler, discard running plate. keep boiler - might have to use the older modified Hall as running plate on new Hall I seem to recall is metal - Course this depends on the modified Hall having the right wheelbase. Use footplate of Hornby Castle (I've got a spare body. This gives the correct depth to the curve on the front of the footplate. Probably cut of splashers, make good and refit in correct place and probably cut down a bit, remove and filler where the inside pistons project onto footplate Extend firebox on Hall boiler by about 2 mm, this should give it the correct length, rest of boiler dimensions seem OK. Replace cab with correct pattern (probably old 4-4-0 County one). Replace buffers, chimney and saftey valve as required. It probably wouldn't win any prizes but I think it might give a passable representation, the cost might be prohibitive, but I'd try and pick up the bits off ebay. And given the costs of even badly built saints on ebay is in excess of 70/80 quid (and there are based on the old B12 chassis and thus incorrect) it might work out cheaper Any thoughts? Rovex

Good news. I've really enjoyed this site and thanks to you, Mikkel for starting it, and good luck to Russ for taking it on, I await developments with anticipations Rovex

Ah well - I'm currently living in rented accomodation and so have no room for a layout, so until I've bought a new house i'm stuck with building things for a future layout and having pipe dreams about the layout I want to build. Hopefully sometime soon I can start putting those dreams into reality (sigh) Rovex

Star Class, Glastonbury Abbey is now finished, so here a pic, before it gets wrapped up and goes into store. Rovex

Great layout - keep up the good work Rovex

Thanks Taz, now I've had a closer look, I'm inclined to agree. I was scanning through a book I got on ebay about Snow Hill Station (bit of a pipedream I'm having at the moment) and in a throw away remark the author said that amongst others the Stars had been branded as mixed traffic and therefore painted black. Looking more closely at the picture I'm inclined to agree with you though. Rovex

Not a GWR coach at all - but it didn't seem worthwhile starting a new thread for one picture. I'd asked elsewhere about problems with the old Hornby Saint - and wow was that a case of lighting the blue touch paper and retiring. Anyway it stirred me into having a go at knocking up a Star (Saint to Star? Don't ask) I can't claim any credit for the process as its all detailed elsewhere on other threads - have a look at the thread on the Hornby Saint for the links. This is based on the old Airfix Castle, but I've been lucky enough to get hold of a Hogwarts Castle for under ??20 of ebay and will be using the motorised chassis and tender from that to put under the Airfix body, and dispensing with the Airfix tender drive. I'm intending to model "Glastonbury Abbey" as I quite like the sound of it and it also had the larger style tender. A paint job for this and the red hogwarts tender awaits but I'm in a quandary as to whether these engines carried BR black in the early BR days, or lined green. They were after all express locos which would suggest green but the only colour photo I've come across (and believe me finding any photos of Stars is a challenge) would seem suggest black? Alternatively as the proposed railway is meant to be 1950, I might go for a late GWR livery. Anyone any thoughts on livery? Rovex

Hi guys thanks for all the responses, didn't think I was going to cause such excitement when I asked the question. I'm currently bashing together a Star from the instructions on the GWR.org site, It seemed the easiest way to do it without too much cutting up. However on ebay at the moment is the Wills finecast kit for the Saint (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WILLS-FINECAST-LOCO-BODY-KIT-GWR-SAINT_W0QQitemZ150408175178QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Trains_Railway_Models?hash=item2305069e4a), BUT it's meant to take a B12 chassis, so presumably it just replicates all the wheel base errors of the Hornby one. Any thoughts Rovex

I've been in Leeds for the last couple of weeks doing some 12 inch to the foot modelling - that is decorating my old house in an effort to make it presentable to potential buyers. My partner and I have found somewhere we want to buy here in Redditch but we need to sell the old homestead first. Hopefully all will go smoothly and as soon as I'm allowed I can start building a layout to run these trains on. Anyway having got back last Sunday I've been busy building the two dining cars for the centenary stock that I dug out of my father's garage (much to everyone's disgust - "Is that what we moved all this stuff for!!!" - some people have no understanding - lol). I also found a kit for another all third which i didn't realise I had. Once all are built I should be able to run something approaching a proper centenary train, with all coach variations provided. (God I only hope Hornby don't announce new Centenaries as coaching stock that wouldn't be funny . So for those interested here are the five new coaches after initial painting - For a change no bits of paint have come away having permanently attached themselves to the masking tape. I lightly sanded the aluminium sides of the old BSL kits which I think helped. And very little paint beleding - miracles will never cease. The two brakes are the Airfix conversions shown elsewhere on this blog. Still plenty to do - so will keep me occupied over the Xmas hols. Happy Xmas and New Year everyone Rovex

Looks good - well done

Having sanded and filled the sides for the centenary brake third and being quite please with the result I thought I'd have a go at the brake composite using the same cut and shunt methods of which more in a mo. The brake third has now had its grey undercoat, this highlighted those areas which needed some more filling and I think it now looks quite smooth. I tried taking a few close up shots but there are so blurred I couldn't tell whether it was smooth or not from the photos, so I've not bothered posting them. In the brake third it was only the compartment and guards section that was cut out so the luggage section remained unharmed. The new sections were glued together one at a time using small amounts superglue kept solely on the edges. The bottom of each side was presed against a steel rule to keep them all square, any gaps would later be filled. These pieces were sanded smooth, but not filled before gluing back into the gap in the coach side making sure that the bottom of the coach side remained in line and that the transition between old side and new section was also flat. Again superglue was used sparingly to ensure that the glue set quickly. Once solid more glue was applied from behind and allowed to run down inside and along the top edge to fill any glaring gaps but making sure it was kept off the front face. Once this was all set the sides were filled with milliput, then sanded and filled again. Sanded once again, given an initial spray. This helped to highlight where more work was needed and these areas were given a final fillering, using small amounts of milliput and plenty of spit !! It has proved easier to hide the joins then I thought (though I'll let you judge when I post pictures of the finished result), I think the reason for this has something to do with the lack of doors and extra details, so I haven't had to worry about sanding off door hinges etc. The same process was used for the brake compo, which as you see from the photos is at the pre filler stage. I used the composite as the main coach with donor parts from two brake thirds (you need two to get enough little corridor windows). Wasteful I know and so unless you happen to have lots of spare coaches lying around I would recommend either getting hold of the phoenix/BSL kits or the the Comet sides. As I am going to have a lot of coach bodies going spare when I finally build the dining car kits, I wasn't so bothered by the waste. Here are the photos Anyway Leeds next week and I will hopefully find where those dining car kits are I keep going on about. Rovex

I did wonder if there was any mileage in adapting the Bachman Hall - changing the wheels etc, but it strikes me as an expensive exercise. Rovex

Hi guys - sounds to me that improving Hornby's saint is going to be an awful lot of work for not much return - I'll get it shoved on ebay then and have ago at the Star Yes I did mean Star - and I'd thought I'd proof read it. Thanks for the link Mikkel Rovex

The Hornby GWR Saint - Saint Catherine, Clevedon Court etc - I've got one of these snuck away somewhere (St Catherine - I think) and to be honest I don't think its been out of the box but I seem to recall that when it was first produced by Hornby it got a very bad press. Unfortunately I can't remember why? Does anyone? Reason I ask is that I have a hankering for a saint class loco and I'm wondering whether its worth upgrading the Hornby one, getting a new larger tender etc or should I just stick it on ebay and start from scratch. If so I might not bother and instead have a go at building a Saint instead, this website http://www.gwr.org.uk/prostar.html has a good article showing how to make one from an old Airfix Castle and the 4-4-0 GWR County - which I also have stored somewhere. What do you think? Rovex

Having got a tad bored of drilling little holes in my 70 ft stock in order to attach grab handles I've put them to one side - I'm very easily distracted as well which doesn't help. I've done a bit more work on the BSL Centenary all third, it's has door hinges, handles and door handles fitted and the roof has been cut to size and the requisite vents added. Now needs masking for the blood to be added. The photo shows it next to an airfix composite to give an idea of the actual differences in the coaches. I intend using some cut up interiors from the composite to make the required seven compartments. I should have plenty as I'm going to use the frames of two coaches when I make the BSL restaurant cars which I'll do when I find the kits I've got squat away. The other centenary I've had a go at- I couldn't resist seeing if it was possible - is the left handed brake third. The Hornby (ex-airfix) model is the right handed version. Its quite straightforward to get the sides right - you cut out an equal amount of each side - I think it was about 96 mm, splice each side up to move the windows around, glue them back together in the right order and then insert back into the coach sides. The luggage section of each was identical (or seems to be). I sanded the new side pieces on the table before gluing them back in, as this seemed easier. The problem is going to be ensuring you have smooth sides (there are no door frames to hide the cuts) I think I'm getting there but I've just given the resulting coach a spray of undercoat which will I am sure reveal all. The roof was changed by splicing off the vents and putting each one on the opposite side of the roof. Effectively mirroring their old positions. Any moulded handrails have been cut off and the coach drilled to accept new wire ones. I've not added these yet pending any more sanding that needs doing. Any way here are the pictures along with some of the original coach showing that right and left handed versions are mere mirror images. I'm looking at the drawings for the brake composite and wondering if i can do this by cutting up a composite and a brake third but I'm inclined to think I'll have more success with the BSL kit, unless the Comet sides will fit the Hornby coaches - now there's a thought. And I promise I will get those grab handles on the 70 ft stock. Rovex

Only books I've got are Russell's ones on GW coaches (though all but one is in store pending buying a new house in Redditch) and Harris's. However the notes that come with Comet's coach sides are very useful and give suggested coach formations and u can get them online from their site. Rovex

The brake third is now finished, I've added the missing "W"s to the coach number, lining has all been done and the coach given a coat of varnish to protect the transfers from coming off on my fingers. The flushglazing has been added. Rather than paint round the window frames, I tried painting round the glazing before fitting, seems to work ok. Grab handles are from Comet and seem a little on the thick side, though I can imagine any finer and they would be prone to damage. Corridor connections have been added and all it needs now is a layout!!!!!! The photos show the coach alongside a 57ft all third - made from kitbashing more Hornby coaches. Really gives an idea of the length of these coaches. More photos will follow as I finish off the others. Rovex

More "W"s have arrived and so lining and numbering can continue. next glazing and grab handles. Rovex

Now that is what you call a roundy roundy layout - good work on the scenics Rovex

Since I'm out of "W"s I decided to finish off the Cornish Riviera kitchen car that I'd been renovating. This was originally bought off ebay some years ago, together with a brass toplight composite and a Centenary brake third. I stripped it and the toplight down using Nitromors which proved highly effective, so much so that anything that had been superglued on fell off (the kitchen car disintegrated into its constituent parts). I had to take the soldering iron to the toplight to remove excess solder from when it was first built and the previous owner had inserted the compartments the wrong way round. It remains on the workbench awaiting further surgery. However the kitchen car has now been reglued and painted and is I think now finished. I won the Phoenix kit of the restaurant composite on ebay recently so I might make a start on that sometime soon. So that just leaves the restaurant third to complete the set. Heres the photos In a recent auction I also won the BSL kit for the Centenary all third. I tried this out against an old Hornby composite and it fitted the sides and underframe quite well. Encouraged by this I constructed the sides and ends and glued them to a slightly modified Hornby chassis. - Saves having to make one up. The chassis just needed a couple of mm cutting off the subframe above the buffers - I forgot to take some phots of the area - but perhaps next time. I will have to sort out a few errors in the chassis (new battery boxes etc) but I think I'm off to a good start. I think I've mentioned already that I've got the first kitchen car and third diner for the Centenary stock in storage. When I'm back in Leeds in December I'm going to try to dig these out and see if I can do the same with them. Rovex

Thanks guys for the kind comments. Yes, Bernard TPM, the restaurant car should have sliding vents by the time modelled. I did consider cutting the vents off and squaring up the windows and fitting sliding vents, but when i looked more closely at the coach sides I decided that this was going to involve a lot of work, especially since the vents extend beyond the windows below and so would require filling. Then there was the question of how to represent the sliding vents. Do you glue microstrip onto the glazing and if so how do you paint it to without getting paint all over the glazing. In the end I chickened out and just went with what I had, after all its not meant for Pendon. I'm meant to be modelling very early 1950 BR, and so I can get away with a few choc'n'cream, but until I started making these coaches all my previous attempts at lining and numbering have been thoroughly dreadful and so I went for the simplest livery. As and when I can start building a new layout I'm going to try and run a mixture of early BR and late GWR liveries to try to give that "just after nationalisation" feel. I'm currently wondering whether it is possible to make a passable attempt at the Clifton Down set using the Triang clerestories - adding a compartment to both the composite and the brake to get the correct number, some cutting round the brake compartment and some windows in the end - Oh and of course lose the clerestory. Its only a thought, I know I've got some of these in a box in storage and will have to dig them out and do some measurements. If built these will be painted all over chocolate as they didn't last long enough to see blood and custard. Got loads of flushglaze in and I'm going to try to thin the edges of the coaches with a bit of black, I was wondering whether to try black marker pen for this rather than black paint - I'll report back. I just need to order some more HMRS lettering now since when I checked last night I'd used up all my "W"s. Suppose it gives me a chance to build a few other things and then do all the lining at once - won't that be fun. Rovex

They're not kits coachman, but made by cutting and shutting the Hornby colletts. Though I'm flushed that you should think they are. On the subject of transfers again> I've also got a lo of maroon lining and blue'grey period lining if anyone wnts to do swaps for more blood and custard era. lol Rovex

These are the coaches after the first visit to the paint shop, lining and numbering to be done. Have you noticed they don't give you enough "W"s on the transfer sheets. I'm gonna be left with tons of left over lettering and numbering from these transfer sheets. I wonder if I can sell partly used sheets on ebay . Rovex