Worsdell forever

That's better...

What does it say on the side? NOB?

It seems you can vote for me! If you enjoy what's going on here... https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfVprB4ALfO-BPO2zBXLSPI5UiSDDmfxfHLtR8rqfbj7DokOg/viewform

It seems you can vote for me! If you enjoy what's going on here... https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfVprB4ALfO-BPO2zBXLSPI5UiSDDmfxfHLtR8rqfbj7DokOg/viewform

And here's the first trail out of the fiddleyard,

You just need to control that dog...

The optimum time is before it boils over... you don't need to ask how I worked that out.

Finally had a session in the shed today, not all that warm outside but the sun on the shed roof helped warm it through! Got the surface of the down platform on, I experimented with PVA on the plasticard with chinchilla dust a while ago and it seemed to stay put so I've gone for it! So while that's drying I've moved back to the fiddleyard, I've now got 3 tracks up and running. Power plugs in to the turntable in the centre of the side rail, there's another socket on the other side, wired the opposite way. And here's the sort of wiring diagram if you can work it out.

Not really sure of the ratio of PVA/water but probably 60/40 although the PVA I've used here is quite thin to start with, usually mix 100 - 150ml at a time and that probably gets a bit less than a teaspoon of washing up liquid. Then it's warmed gently in the microwave. Usually do a whole board in one session, using a dropper to gently dribble onto the sleepers to let it seep into the ballast so it doesn't cause craters. After it's seeped in more can be dribbled directly onto the ballast. Any colour change isn't an issue for me as its black ballast and it will be sprayed with mucky brown anyway.

Hope you'll be wearing that T shirt...

No need, he's on a track circuit, there's a diamond on the signal post. There is of course no reason why he can't go and ask why things are taking so bliddy long...

Rooftop reshuffle.

It's een edited, letter is playing up on this keyoard!

And to promote the NERA and the comprehensive archive available to members. Could the extra vent be because there isn't one at the other side where the corridor is? would this mean there's also an extra vent on the first First class compartment at the other side?

Been thinking about that, it's a sort of Victorian modesty corridor, couldn't possibly be seen going directly into the loo from the compartment, just proves the North Eastern superiority over the Midland...😁

Sort of referring to other box drawings, just the lavvy that's different. Yes, found the photo, (as new?) looks like there's an extra vent on the third class compartment next to the first class loo? So these were 3rd, 3rd, lavs, 1st, 1st, 1st, 1st, 3rd?

Just gently formed with fingers and thumbs round a piece of round bar.

Thanks for that, it's the only kit I have without a drawing on the box lid, all easily resolved. was there also a corridor on the other side of the other toilet?

Done very little modelling since before Christmas, it's been too cold in the workshop to do anything on the layout and just had no chance to do anything at the bench as my dad's been in hospital since just after new year, thankfully he's home now and doing well, just managed a couple of bits and pieces on some wagons until Sunday when I decided I had a free day to just get on and do something, I've been wanting to get on with some half built carriages for a while and thought it would be a good opportunity to make some progress on this diagram 5 lavatory composite. On Sunday I got all the door handles and grabs fitted along with the footboards along the full length, tonight I've fitted the lamp tops and ventilators. The body has had a waft of grey primer.

Caption for this photo where it appears in 'Signalling Centres North East : No1 York' NERA 2020.

I built Felton Lane with C&L flexi and hand built turnouts, I think their flexitrack is to H0 scale so has the correct proportions, comparing it to EM there's quite a sleeper spacing difference.

One B4 did end up in North Eastern territory at Skinningrove iron works.

That is an early NER G2 van, it would have originally had a canvas roof door and it looks like the drop door has been cut in half and incorporated into the cupboard doors as each door has 3 hinges.

Obviously Paddington bear beats them all...

NER Autocar regauging. The two bogies are different, even down to the wheels, the powered bogie has spoked and the trailing has disc with a plastic insert. Starting with the trailing bogie, remove it from the chassis and gently ease off the two ends, unfortunately these can’t be reused as we need to move the bogie side frames apart. Next the centre bolster needs to be removed, the bottom half unclips and the two sideframes can be eased off the top part. The top part of the bolster will be found to have four square pegs, these need filing back from the centre line .5mm, the corresponding holes on the sideframes need filing in over by about .5mm so that when the sideframes are remounted they will each be 1mm further out. I also filed back the pick up strip a tiny amount as it was rubbing on the wheels. Next the wheels need attention, first, obviously, they need re gauging, holding the plastic axle sleeve with serrated pliers each wheel can be twisted and persuaded to the desired B2B. The plastic inserts now need working on, the outside flange needs removing as it sits proud of the tyre, then if the back of the insert is filed back until the four circles disappear they will fit in the wheel much better and will be lass likely to catch the pick up strips. Now the bogie needs re assembling, the two halves of the bolster should clip back together and the screw fixing it to the chassis should hold it all together, a little glue could be run into the holes around the four pegs to stop any movement but it’s a very glue resistant plastic. The power bogie is more difficult to remove but easier to re gauge, the body needs to be unclipped and the interior removing, it won’t come off completely as there are pick up wires attaching it to the chassis, there’s no need to remove these. Remove the bogie clip from the top of the gearbox and ease the bogie and propshaft out of the chassis, the propshaft is a tight fit into the gearbox but is better removed to work on the bogie. Next remove the axle keeper plate and the bogie sideframes can be slid out and the wheels removed, re gauge the wheels as before, there’s no inserts here, this bogie has spoked wheels. As on the trailing bogie the square holes on the sideframes need filing in over, as this bogie already has a little sideplay there’s no need to file the pegs which are on the axle keeper plate. Clip it all back together and re fit the bogie, it’s a bit of a squeeze to get it in the right position, there’s a pin to locate the bogie which it also pivots on.