luke_stevens

The Dapol models comes with the 2 different types of batter clips. My blue fye has the later clips, the maroon syp has the earlier. So it shouldn't be necessary to modify, just get the one with the correct moulding . It doesn't seem to be a spare at the moment but who knows, it may be later. Luke

Whis is what I've used! And yes it works for the 2nd cab light. Luke

Hi Bil, No idea! Nothing to do with me! Those are the pipes it came fitted with. I guess I better start looking at photos for the pipework. Thanks (I think!) for the info. Luke (now puzzled) Edit: I now have Modern Locomotives Illustrated 200 in front of me. The 2 pipes below the buffers are the main reservoir pipes (yellow), To the left of the coupling is the the big vac pipe, to the right of the coupling the lower pipe is the steam pipe, to the right the upper pipe is air break pipe. Thus I need to loose the air break pipe, but you should have the main reservoir pipes below each buffer beam. Luke (less puzzled now)

And here is one with the 3.6mm headcodes. Individual characters, stuck to the headcode frame then trimmed and stuck to inside of glazing. The double sided tape wasn't that clean so I'll need to re-do but the size looks more like prototype photographs. Oddly the internal frame gives the impression of the rubber framing. I like the flexibility but it does make me go a little cross-eyed! Luke PS and window frames painted grey...

My Western's other cab light comes on with F2 Luke

Has anyone tried to fit the Alan Gibson Heljan Western replacement wheels to the Dapol Western? With Ultrascale being sold-out, I'd be interested in lessening the jelly-like motion of my Western... The AG pack has 3'7" wheels on a 2mm axle. Is this Dapol-compatible? Thanks Luke

And it has the light gray window frames! Maybe one from the next batch... Luke

As proivded by 247. A single line plate would be far too long... Luke

Yes, Much more likely. Will adjust and repost! Luke

A few mins with Paint... Not terribly accurate but interesting to consider. Luke

Now I wish I'd got one... Then on to one of the fictional nameplate manufactures and 7941 would happly be pottering about! Luke

Richard, my apologies if I was unclear: I want you to keep posting about your Western! If there is going to be a general problem I want this web site to be able to offer advice and recommendations on how to solve this problem We are all learning from the issues you are having and I'm sure we all want them to be solved! If the loco has already died then trying a Bachmann plug isn't going to help. You'd need to fit it before there seems to be a problem. If you are going to send it back to DCC Supplies for repair, ask them to change the 21pin blanking plug. If that doesn't remove the problem at least we know that isn't a problem. Step by step we'll cure this! Luke

I believe it a 21pin. It would be worth taking the plug out before there is a problem and giving it a visual once over. By the time you see smoke or smell burning it's too late. If the light's are "weird";top off and have a look. Bachmann do spare 21pin blanking plugs (36-058) and Hattons (happy customer, no connection) have them in stock with a pack of ten @ £5. Or ask any DCCer as most of us have got them floating around. Hopefully that will stop any more failures. I don't want to see those scrap lines outside Swindon again!!! Luke

Hi Jim, I missed that one! Most issues in the 43 pages are about things that shouldn't have been glued that were, and things that should be glued that weren't. The only other report of problems with the lights / electrics seems to be Neils. To me, both sound like a case of a badly wired blanking plug. Bachmann have also had problems with this in the pass, and several manufactures have had problems with the sockets. As I said, maybe there will be more problems in the future but for the moment it seems rare. Luke

Hi Richard, I understand your frustration your having with your Dapol western but, so far it seems a unique problem. Maybe when more are released, more of us may have problems but for the moment you just seem unlucky. Which is why I don't think it is terribly fair to put on the Heljan pages of this forum, under a thread you yourself started that "Due to electrical issues well documented elswere am deemed to have to keep my Heljan ones with having to possibly get somemore". The electrical issue seems only to effect your Westerns. Please don't suggest the problems is bigger than it is. Respectfully, Luke

Oh. My bad... Luke

Hi Guys Do we think that there would be sufficient demand for Kernow to do some weathered ones? The weathered Westerns they are doing look magnificent and some of the Warships got pretty ropey by the end. Over to you CaptinKernow!

That's not Brighton, it's Waterloo. I think platform 15, long before they demolished the building in the background to build Waterloo International. Luke

I got my Cl22 last week and it's a lovely model...but one of the buffers is broken off. I've been sent a couple of spares with springs, etc, but I have no idea how to fit them! I can't see what I'm meant to unscrew, unclip or prise loose! Do the buffers themselves come away from the buffer beams? Out with the super glue de-bonder? Anyone with any idea / suggestions? Thanks Luke

I suspect it comes down to availability. There are a lot of places where you can't buy Dapol but can buy Farish (i.e. ModelZone). So if Dapol think it is worth producing a new Western then it must be worth Farish catching the coat tails and flogging some to those who don't know better. Sad, but business. Luke

What I enjoyed at Ally Pally happened when I was standing in front of the T-gauge stand. A large and bossy woman was pontificating to a hen-pecked looking man next to me that as there wasn't any British Z-gauge there would never be any British T-gauge! At that moment the HST rolled out of the tunnel and across the bridge... Oh, she said, it's an InterCity 125. She then walked off in a huff, leaving the others around all smiling, and the hen-pecked man glowing in victory! Luke

My D5901 arrived today and runs very smoothly. Unfortunately the headcoad is even worse than before! Any one know how to change them? On the inside there is a huge and carefully designed lump of black plastic (lighting duct?) that seems to be very firmly glued, and completely blocks any access . I'm very reluctant to try to get to it from outside. Is the anyway of easily "convincing" the plastic light guide to let go? Thanks Luke

Hi Dave, There is a way the valance problem. The Austrian manufacturer Roco had a similar problem with it's model of the Spanish £319 class that, like the Western, has a very obvious buffer beam / valance area. Roco supplied the loco with 4 removable pieces; 2 with full detail and 2 with a gap for the coupling. Basically the whole area below the body side is removable in the buffer beam / valance area. (I've got a copy of the images from the Roco spare parts diagrams but I can't get them to load, sorry) If you go to www.roco.cc>service>ersatzteilblatter then enter 62955 then click on "Suchen" it will give you the spare parts sheet. Look at sections 12 (Open Valance) and 16 (Closed Valance) Hopefully the pictures will give you a better idea of what I'm trying to describe!. Luke

Looking through the Warley 2009 Guide, a few pages from the end, there is a full page announcement that in 2010 Heljan is going to be doing the Baby Deltic, 4-character headcode version, in both green and blue. Hopefully there'll be more info on their stand at the show. Time to start saving. (I suppose you might have got Kestrel and a Baby Deltic together at Kings Cross)