Liddy

Hi, Thanks for taking the time to explain how you created your track, I shall have to give it a try. Meanwhile I have found this a photo of my fave Frampton loco, sadly missed.

I am desperate, I am practising building in P4, meanwhile I have just got to get something running, I've drooled over the sublime Shell Island, the wagon sidings on Canada Road, the running of trains on Abbotswood Jct. and the magic of Frampton. I've drawn inspiration from the atmospheric Cardiff photos of BR2975 (Thanks for sharing) Roath Goods and Bracty Bridge. So, I've set the scene and drawn a trackplan on Anyrail, the operation would involve cassettes at each end, probably longer than the micro, with the rear siding shunted by invisible locos (heard but never seen) and trains emerging from the front siding when given the road to cross the bridge and traffic on the running line in both directions. Now I could do with some feedback, I'd like to add a semaphore for the exit from the siding, but being realistic it would be off-scene to the left. I've had one bit of input that said simply " can you make it smaller?" Well thinking about it today I reckon I can, the sidings at the back can be closer than prototype and the terraces can be singles tucked right in at the bottom of the embankment and if I change the tall town pub for a corner shop then the embankment doesn't need to be so high and the bridge will be low but with the road dipping underneath. Thanks for any comments

Hi, I know you used pins to fix the track down, please can we have a little more about the 'how'? Some people talk of cut down bambi staples, but I can't imagine that is consistent enough for appearance, what did you use for track spikes? Presumably you had to drill and glue, I can't imagine 'driving' your spikes. I have ambitions of a light railway and spiked rail seems the lightest option. Thanks in advance

You made the local paper!

I was delighted to see Frampton at Monmouth at the weekend, I get endless enjoyment out of watching and chatting, I'm always inspired by the atmosphere created by the scenics and those great photos of authentic-looking wagons sitting in quiet, seemingly half-forgotten sidings between moves. Thank you

Terrific work! Great to see hand-built points, they are a future learning 'point' for me, I'm tempted by your Jinty weathering to try that first.

I have a couple of days off work to make sure I use up my holiday before year-end, this has resulted in 2 mid-week days, daylight and some relative peace (wife at work, son and daughter fully occupied) and a couple of hours working on wagons. I've been very impressed with Michael Clark's etches for brake gear and I'm particularly keen to address the brakes on an ex-LNER/BR fish van a Parksidekit in the guise of an Express Parcels van, the kit linkages, levers and vees look under-nourished. Trying to make up Michael's brake hangers and shoes was fiddly, so I cheated with MJT clasp brakes, now I'm onto the more satisfying bits of linking vee's and brakes together with rigging. I also decided to improve the brakes on an ex-GWR 12 ton van in BR bauxite a Bachmann RTR model and found intially to my growing horror that I was cutting more and more bits off the underframe before I could start re-construction, but I'm sure now it was worthwhile. Fitting the P4 wheels needed the backs of the W-irons sanded down and the axle holes very carefully drilled a fraction deeper for the pinpoints. The header picture here shows something of my goal, the van is the Parkside kit and has been fitted with sprung buffers, I know they're not the right pattern as they are Bachmann loco buffers from a spares pack, but they're good enough for me for now. The coupling is an etched instanter to HO scale very kindly given to me by a fellow modeller. Again, it's not right as it's too small for 4mm and looks fragile, in my view, instanters are large heavy bulky couplings and these just aren't big enough, I have a packet of Exactoscale to try, but even though they are from the pro's in the business they still don't portray the 'mass' of the real thing, I may tin them to 'bulk' them up and see if that makes a better representation. Anyway, the header image shows the fish/parcels van and an 08 on a tight curve with the coupling at full stretch and the inner buffers in compression which is something I want to see. These pictures of the 12T RTR van show the extent of original detail that needed removing (brake hangers/brake blocks/brake rigging/cross-shaft Etc) and the new P4 wheels fitted together with new brake hangers/blocks cut down from the MJT clasp brakes and fitted into 1.6mm holes drilled in the floor to get the shoes to line-up with the axles. The brake blocks have been drilled for the brake arms. The round white dot in the lower right quadrant of the underframe in this picture below is the tip of the cut-down brake hanger showing where the hole is drilled to fit the MJT brake hangers/blocks. This next image shows how it is possible to get the brake blocks very close to the wheel. I've made up brake arms and added Vee's to the underframe, now I'm adding brake levers and GWR pattern 'saw-tooth' brake guards, I had trouble knowing where to locate the top of the brake guard, but there is a tiny 'nib' on the right-hand end of the sole plate in just the right spot (just out-board of the shortened side stanchion) the stay to the w-iron was shortened by half and twisted half-a-turn to allow it to lie flat. Most awkward has been getting the profile of the long brake lever right, the sketch in the instructions is vague, so I've used Geoff Kent's excellent '4mm Wagons part 2', you can see that the initial angle from the vee is too large, I shall tweak it tomorrow, I'm pleased I could do the tiny 'return' on the handle end. A note on the brake arms; I've measured the RTR underframe and as far as I can tell it is a 40mm wheelbase, so spot-on, but I'm disappointed with the resulting angle of the cams on the cross-shaft, I expected them to be less acute, so on my next version I think I'll shorten the brake arms and re-drill the brake block end. btw The white splodges are primer on the brass Shaping brake levers My worry over shaping the brake levers for the ex GWR 12T van are over, I tweaked the first one and then drew a plan view on squared paper with some dimensions and from that I found it straightforward to shape the next one. Here is my finished lever. And the plan with dimensions 5-plank wagon conversion So I got a bargain on an online auction it was dark grey with 'loco wheels only' markings, but with a 'coal load' glued into it, I had originally (before I found the 'coal') thought it would go into store for a steam era idea, but now I've decided it needs a new identity. First some bauxite paint, then a simple renumber, then a dummy load, then a tarpaulin sheet for the body next a revamp for the underframe, wheels, brakes, vac cylinder, tie rods etc

Bought a 37/0 off ebay, very pleased as it has a V4 Loksound. My preference is for proper headcodes, partly nostalgia and partly because it gives a train an identity in my mind. It came with 'domino' headcodes so I popped one out .... I removed the paint, but still felt the transparent headcode glazing was too small, looked at photos and got conflicting impressions and still felt they were too small, so I made a start on proper headcode windows. Bits of sweetie box acetate are ideal. A further bonus with this loco was that the owner had commissioned a model shop to put in headcode and tail lights! I still haven't figured out how to dim them, but I find this new 'extended' CV set very confusing. OK, so I've installed new glazing and headcode, I'm not happy, the superglue has 'misted' the glazing, so I need to replace that and the headcodes have 'spotty' backgrounds due to using a fancy paper, time to re-print. I'll post again when remedial action has been completed. P.S. Yes, I know about the lamp irons, shawplan versions are on my shopping list for when I've finished handling the makeover.

Aren't photos great for showing-up what you think is a half decent job, clearly I need to have a sweep-up along the road side, it looks a mess.

Hi, So the starting picture is one I took recently on a ramble hoping to capture a country lane and hedge to give me inspiration and guidance on making my own. I'd been into a model shop and nearly bought hedges, but realsied that even when bought I'd feel compelled to add detail, foliage, variety so decided to experiment and got out all my various bags of flock etc. I went for variation in colour and texture I think it needs long grass at the bottom of the hedge to help blend in to the road verge and maybe a gentle blow over with some dusty shades to try to tie it all together. Any comments appreciated

3 images to demonstrate my progress, An overview of work to date A picture of me trying a coach for size against the site of the platform, clearly showing that I needed more than 1 kit The downloaded backscene to fit behind and above the embankment [

Well, time marches-on ever-faster it seems, I've been working on that same baseboard on-and-off for a couple of months now and in the last few weeks made some progress good enough to write about. Firstly, I ditched the Sector plates as again being too long and restricting where I can work, so the ends got cut-off. Then I concluded that if I was ever going to model in P4 there was no point in doing anything more in 00. So, I read about P4 track and tried some Ratio 'EM' 18.83mm trackbase, only to discover that it contradicted my new track gauges and learn that it is under-gauge, so I tried copper-clad P4 which matched with the wheelsets that I'd set on a B-2-B gauge, only to find that the 2 x B2B gauges I had differed. So now armed with official Scalefour gauges and a B2B I'd mike'd up as correct I built a section of copper-clad that worked! But, I don't have enough life left to be sawing chairs in half, so I chose Exactoscale trackbase only to learn that it was in short supply, so finally I've bought C+L trackbase. I'm still avoiding points as a) they take up too much length on a short board B) they aren't cheap c) I'm not sure I can make one successfully yet. So, it's going to be plain track with cassettes. Having played with track base I'm confident of laying that correctly, so I decided to step out of my comfort zone to make more progress. I've never done good scenery and I'm put-off by pictures of layouts covered in track on bare boards, I want to do better than that. So I bought a Landscape Kit and I've been working on the baseboard to get my landscape done before I lay track and get too absorbed in playing trains to ever finish the scenery. Let me figure-out how to load an image after all this time and I'll continue shortly

I think that looks great! It's dark and overcast, it's not going to detract attention from the layout and yet it's far better than many fuzzy, out-of focus low-res images offered as backscenes and if you could find a way to dull-down/darken (soot-grime?) the low-relief buildings it will all blend very impressively.

Hi Russ, I've used DG's in 'N' as I saw them used very successfully by Stephen Harris on Ynysarwed Sidings a really inspiration masterpiece. They are simple enough to construct and I found blackening them with a permanent marker whilst still on the etch helped to disguise them. Stephen showed me how he uses his stock just one way around so that he fits the couplings on one end of each wagon without the loop to prevent loops rising up together and hampering coupling-up. I played with permanent magnets to uncouple and they worked very well and I was particularly pleased with the delayed uncoupling action.

I like the simplicity of that circuit, I'll build one at the weekend, all I need to find is a BC107, there must be one around here somewhere. Nice work

A Rumbelows plastic bag! Ye Gads! Naw, it was a very battered Eames carrier bag, still being toted as a badge-of-honour long after the hallowed portals had closed and been re-developed into an office block.

Great streaking on the 16T's, good technique there giving a very realistic effect, I'm going to have to try that myself

Excellent painting of the Gp van with timber grain showing through the paintwork and subtle variations in shade on the ironwork and underframe. Please keep posting.

I managed to visit the Wyre Forest Model show at Worcester today to see Foundry Lane close-up, many thanks to Mark for being so welcoming and taking time to explain his construction to me when he was clearly very busy keeping trains moving for his audience. It was a treat to view close-up and inspired me to do some more baseboard construction when I got back. So in keeping with the principle of simplicity I fitted a brace/stretcher/end-piece/sector plate pivot board to the No.1 end. btw Only the upper piece of 2 x 1 (longest side horizontal) is attached, all the rest are packing pieces. How I wished I had a sash cramp. I think I will add some form of end-plate to help keep everything square, I suspect it will just be a rectangle of scrap ply. A small step, but at least it's another step towards completion. btw Saw 'Unit Models' at the show today, not aware of them before, very interesting selection of resin detailing items, usual disclaimer, no connection with the business, just impressed with the display.

I am a huge admirer of Neil's Shell Island and greatly admire the simplicity of his 'less-is-more' backscene, but I'm a colour-blind dunce when it comes to art, so for my own backscene I'm going to need something solid and physical. Much of my inspiration for an urban setting has come from Hendre Lane, Anderstaff Yard, Mossley Terrace and Thorne Yard. I particularly like the blue brick retaining walls, but feel that for credibility they can't be very high and as I feel something like 15" height is needed I believe some sort of 19th Century industrial warehouse atop the wall is called-for. I spotted a likely candidate today and took a couple of shots with the phone for proportions, windows (nice basic steel frames) textures and details e.g. mossy drain pipes, leaky gutters, weathering streaks Etc. I'll load them here as a reference.

Glad to hear of your success. Please give us more details. I'm interested in the use of DG's in EM, I've tried them in 2mm and I'm considering them for 4mm, do you use them with a loop at one end only? The idea of a sector plate running on a lazy susan bearing is a cracking idea. Can we have some photos pls

That looks great, I especially like all the raised detail, really helps to 'lift' it to a higher level of realism. Can we have some details about how you made it?

As this is an experiment I've discarded notions of clever construction and in an attempt to maintain momentum have gone for hi-grab/non-solvent/building glue of the no-sharp-pointy-metal-things-that-you-nail-wood-together-with type. It's expensive stuff, but it may also rescue my bodyboard. The next stage has to be traditional carpentry to hold the ends in position and support the pivots for the sector plates. I'm planning on a nut & bolt through washers glued to the sector plate for simplicity. Anyone got any advice?

I started a couple of years ago on a simple shunting plank, as space is short and I wanted somewhere to run my stock. There is a simple oval in the loft which works fine for running-in, but with Peco code 100 and only space for short radius points it is clearly a toy train set. I wanted to create something with scenery and work towards 'finescale' appearance. I'd like to work in P4, particularly as I like the 'spindly-ness' of the wheel treads on P4 wagons giving a strong impression of prototype wagons. Anyway, a plank was duly constructed with plans for an industrial setting at the back of a factory with a loading platform and run-around loop and a couple of sidings all in 6' x 8"! Well it would fit in the space I had behind the 'struts' for the roof trusses, but it was a PIA to wriggle it in and out and I was frustrated by having to work between the roof trusses. But I got to grips with DCC and even DCC sound and experimented with Kadees with sliding under-track magnets and had all the points working beautifully with 'stick-in-hole' including PL-15s switching the polarity to live frogs. So far, so good. But working in the loft was really anti-social and at 6' long it wasn't portable and being only 8" deep although I worked on low-relief background buildings it just wasn't satisfying. So this weekend it got dismantled with a mallet. I knew I had to build something smaller that would fit on the bench in the utility room for ease of use and something lighter, more portable. I read what I could about sector plates and decided that was the answer to operating interest and read what I could about using foam slabs as baseboards. I've been inspired by Mossley Terrace and decided that simplicity was the key to success, so I've chosen not to have any points, just rely on the sector plates for switching tracks. I figured that as this was another experiment I could re-use the code 100 track and re-cycle any materials that were in half-decent condition. So, this afternoon I collected a pile of bits from the garage and laid them out on the bench to gauge lengths etc. The following pictures should give you a good idea of my progress to date. I've yet to construct sector plates, but my plan is to create 2 different sets of sector plates, one for use within the constraints of the bench length and a second set twice as long for when I use the full length of the kitchen work surface to enable me to run longer rakes of wagons and through trains. The odd shape (thank goodness for the adjustablity of a B&D workmate tm) is from a need to work diagonally across the bench, a desire to not have any corners in the background, only needing to accommadate sector plates at each end and some ideas discussed on the 2mmSA VAG when I worked in 2mm about 'organic' shapes.

Nice work, a good video and a neat idea. Have you seen the nn3.org website?