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57xx

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Posts posted by 57xx

  1. 8 hours ago, K14 said:

     

    Yes, I reckon you're right & the end is black. If you zoom in to the bottom left corner there's an obvious demarcation line between brown bodyside & black underframe, but this doesn't turn the corner. Also there appears to be some smudging of the black around the first plank: —

     

    Fruit_D_Crop_Text.jpg.0dee0385b91e7d75e5453c85dc478aba.jpg

     

     

    Ah yes, I didn't think to look at the bottom of the stanchions too, that is very obvious now. I was trying to find a contemporary pic to compare against the one preserved on Russ just posted, I had seen that but wanted to verify that is correctly liveried (e.g. it is marked 12T when they were rated at 10T originally). I painted the underframe in black the other days, trying to be very careful not to get any paint on the ends of the stanchions, looks like I needn't have bothered being careful. I also have given it a good clear coat in preparation for transfers but now have more painting to do first!

     

      

    8 hours ago, K14 said:

    How about Return to Evesham? Quite a fructatious area.

     

     

    I have a choice of Weymouth, Slough, Reading, Plymouth and and Worcester that will fit (all small italics. The OOC and "Paddington and Plymouth" in block caps are both waaay to big to fit in the space. I'll probably plump for either Plymouth or Worcester

  2. 4 hours ago, gwrrob said:

     

    Seen before but the photos were lost in the crash, my late fathers O gauge S8 number 2145. Built from the WEP kit by Chris Quilliam to a very high standard. I'm sure I have the destructions somewhere and if I remember correctly came with a roof plan for the furniture. Maybe if I can find it someone like @Harlequin could redraw it to 4mm scale.😉If anyone's interest I can turn it over to shew the undergubbins.

     

    2145.JPG.98210ecc9ba667c1445687bba154b453.JPG

     

    2145.JPGa.JPG.c0ad3bcf55acbbf5358dda320b613bfe.JPG

     

    That's a fabulous model, Rob. Reminds me I haven't put any gas piping on my Fruit D roof, nor rain strips.

  3. 18 hours ago, K14 said:

     

    Thanks Pete, the lower one is the one from Russell, the middle one from Atkins. The Atkins scan may be of an original print, it's much better than in the book. Looking closer at it, is it a trick of the light or is the end in black? I remember seeing a note of when black ends came in but can't find it again.

     

    The HMRS transfers are a bit lacking in appropriate Return To branding, no OOC that will fit and most are in italics and very hard to read when back to front. I might have to take a picture and do some photoshop flipping! 

  4. 5 hours ago, Star-rider said:

    Yes, very happy with mine too - very heavy, a capable hauler and a tender that will accept a good sized speaker for good bass sound.

     

    Back on the topic of the Dean goods, I'm afraid mine too (DCC sound fitted) needs a poke with the finger at low speeds but it's OK when up and running. I don't know how to start sorting it out.

     

    Pete.

     

    Have a look at the driving wheels - are all 6 polished from use or only the outer 4?

    • Thanks 1
  5. 4 hours ago, billbedford said:

     

    Yes, but the original post observed that the inner sides of wagon planks had no chamfer on the top edges, so a scribed line is inappropriate and the edges of the planks are better represented by lines made by a pencil. 

     

    Yes, but where did I mention chamfers? I was stating it is a good tool for scribing planks. People might want to score planks other than inside a wagon. You can also do light scores you know? Are your prints perfectly flat on the inside?

      

    On 29/04/2024 at 15:20, billbedford said:

     

    Not if you use a compass or a miniature marking gauge. Set it to the plank depths and run the point rod around the top of the planks. 

     

    Actually, I print grooves on the inside of the planks, but at only two-thirds the width of the outer ones. This should be just enough to show when weathering, but not noticalble otherwise. That's the theory anyway.

     

    Oh no, they're not are they. :)

  6. On 01/05/2024 at 00:25, MrWolf said:

    I too can vouch for the superior quality of @chuffinghell's printed wagons, as I built three T3  prototypes for appraisal and it may possibly have been me who pestered him to create them, but it wouldn't have happened without his drawing ability and knowledge of exactly how to support the print of a longer wagon than most prints to keep everything square and straight.

     

    On the subject of scribing parallel lines such as wagon interior planks, this tool, known variously as the Jenny caliper, Odd leg or Hermaphrodite caliper is an absolute godsend. I've used one for years on sheet metal for marking out and another has ended up in the house for modelling purposes.

     

    With care, you can scribe lines inside a built up wagon.

     

    firm-joint-jenny-caliper-125mm-p21843-120142_image.jpg.8a625c26196a211243862082ce116020.jpg

     

    I bought one of these to mark out port heights when tuning 2 stroke barrels. Turns on they are quite good (but not brilliant if the point isn't that sharp) for scribing planks

     

    image.png.6a378cae27e50540dde79c2c50208546.png

    • Like 2
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  7. 6 hours ago, Garethp8873 said:

    Whilst I am impressed and looking forward to seeing these eventually appearing in my rolling stock, I do have to say that the font used for running numbers, "FOR FISH TRAFFIC" and "BLOATER/BLOATER A" on the GWR examples just doesn't look right when compared to photographs of them in their GWR days.

     

    Something looks odd about the G on the GW versions too.

     

    For anyone who is strict with their timescales, the XP on the shirt button livery is (if I've interpreted information in Atkins et all correctly) only valid for after 1938 when the XP branding was introduced. If you model anywhere between 1934-38 you'll need to get the fibreglass pencil out.

    • Like 1
    • Agree 3
    • Informative/Useful 1
  8. 33 minutes ago, Schooner said:

    Interesting from a luddite's PoV - what makes them so?

     

    From what I see, they actually have a lip around the base of the dome, no sunken number plates, con rods without massive oversize holes for the crank pins, no bunker steps on the early as-built version.

     

    I really hope no one wastes their time trying to resurrect the DJM version, I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole. You'd be better off starting from scratch, like Dapol have.

    • Like 2
    • Agree 2
    • Informative/Useful 2
  9. On 21/04/2024 at 21:52, MikeB said:

    I'm sure somebody more knowledgeable can explain this in terms of the typical current /resistance of different colour LEDs.

     

    It's not resistance, it's the forward voltage drop and the forward current that are used to determine the resistor required for a specific supply voltage.

     

    On 21/04/2024 at 16:31, Enndee said:

    When wiring 6 or 8 led's to a bus can I use just one resistor in the feed or does each led require its' own resistor? Sorry if this is a stupid question but I am a total novice when it comes to electrical matters!

     

    One thing no one has mentioned is that if you want to run the LEDs off one resistor, you need to run them in series. If you run them in parallel, you will run the risk of a rogue LED with slightly different  characteristics hogging all the current and the others won't light up. The amount of LEDs you can run in series will depend on the forward voltage of the ones you use and the supply current available.

     

    This page has info on LEDs to enlighten you further.

    • Agree 1
  10. 37 minutes ago, Hroth said:

    Looking at the skintones, it seems that something went wrong with the colour balance in the Photoshop workflow...

     

     

    It's just really cold this time of year in Miami.

    • Funny 4
  11. 1 hour ago, MrWolf said:

     

    What's an FSD level 5?

     

    I checked the 1959 Standard - Triumph parts book, no mention of it, so I probably don't need one anyway.

     

    FSD is Tesla's "Full Self Driving" - a product marketed as fully autonomous driving  (like the full name suggests), that people paid for and then were told to go kick rocks by an idiotic CEO when it never materialised. Currently it comprises of things like lane assist and cruise control, but is anything but fully autonomous as the driver has to stay alert and "ready to take over" at any point. It's very poorly implemented, using cameras only (someone who think's he knows better than all the other car makes told his engineers to remove the LIDAR used on older models).  Tesla got outed faking a video of it in operation several years ago. It also has a habit of running into the back of stationary emergency vehicles, motorcycles, cyclists, trees and lane dividers.

     

    The level 5 refers to SAE standards for autonomous vehicles, which is the nirvana of  self driving e.g. you can kip in the back and get to your destination, alive, rather than the sub L3 it's currently at with driver assist features.

    • Like 3
  12. 21 hours ago, 30801 said:

     

    Thing is the products are really good even though the bloke's a massive nobber.

    How is that FSD level 5 that buyers were promised many years ago comng on?

    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 4
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