Sandy Harper

I think I must have 'MUG' tattooed across my forehead! A fellow member of the HR Society advertised a Laurie Griffin Skye Bogie 'kit' for sale at an attractive price, which I subsequently purchased, as I wanted to build one as part of my HR loco collection. Let us be under no illusions here. This is not a 'kit' in the accepted sense of the word. It is a collection of cast parts, etched brass and N/S sheets and a number of photocopied sheets written by Laurie to assist you in putting them together. There are no exploded diagrams or drawings. There is no real identification of any of the etches, just a list parts. After opening the box you are starting on a journey into the unknown. This is not for the faint hearted!! I do have one small advantage though, in that I have previously built a Jones 4-4-0T from the same stable a few years ago which was similar to this so I have an idea what to expect. Or at least,so I thought!! Laurie provides aluminium turned spacers to assist with the erection of the etched chassis sides and a number of 90 degree bent pieces of N/S for the spacers. There is a narrative description on their suggested location. Having been caught out before, I first measured the width of the spacers, the thickness of the n/s frames and the width of the shoulders of the brass top hat bearings provided. Surprise, surprise the total exceeded the back to back for finescale '0' gauge by about .50mm. I decided to turn 1mm from the width of the spacers in the lathe, easy enough, but removing 1mm from the spacers took significantly longer. After about an hours work I had a reasonably square chassis of the correct width. I set the bearings up using the chassis jig and sprung the front drivers by elongating, vertically downward, the bearing hole in the frames and fitting a length of piano wire as per 'Jazz's' method. The previous owner had started the model by painting the wheels before he gave up the build, so that has saved me a job. Laurie explains in his write up that there is very little space to fit everything in, up the front end of the loco, so as I go along, I will be looking for ways to save space. The crank pin is an obvious starting point so I will be replacing the Slaters 12BA screw for a 10BA bolt screwed in from the rear and recessed into the plastic wheel centre so that it is flush. The bearings will be tapped 10BA and screwed in from the outside in reverse so obviating the need for a nut and washer on the outside of the rods. The cast rods supplied by Laurie are very nice but need to be thinned down to save space. He describes this in the instructions. You are warned that the bogie frame etch is undersize and needs to be widened to 28mm. The axle bearing holes also need to be opened out from 1mm to fit the bearings or to fit the axles if you don't want to bother with the brass bearings. I chose to use the bearings, so 28mm is too wide and 26mm is more suitable. I used the Jig to keep everything square. On offering the bogie up to the chassis it became apparent that things were not going to fit very well and that a significant amount of metal needed to be removed from the chassis to prevent the bogie fouling the chassis sides. This was cut away with a grinding disc in the Dremel. Regards Sandy

Phew! glad you sorted that one out!!!

Thanks Pete, back to the Highland for my next project! Sandy

Earl of Dartmouth Yes, I know it probably shouldn't have a shiny brass safety valve cover but, if the client wants it, the client gets it! Regards Sandy

Thanks Malc. The threat of being 'shot at dawn' was probably enough for 'would be photographers' to keep their cameras well hidden! Regards Sandy

Thanks Barnaby. Here is a shot taken on our club layout pulling a rake of Metropolitan Coaches. Regards Sandy

You're right, Bu66er! Sandy

Thanks everyone for your 'Likes' etc. Much appreciated. Sandy

I thought you might like it Peter. Is the football getting to you yet? We are getting sick of it here already!!!!! Regards Sandy (in a football free zone)

The Adams Radial is now complete and will be going to its new home tomorrow. Regards Sandy

That's a very solid looking machine with a dance hall for a cab!! Was there multiple layers of brass at the smokebox end? Nice one Ken. Sandy

I have completed the painting of the Adams Radial but have been awaiting the builder plates and brass raised numbers from Guilplates. They arrived today so they will be fitted next week and the final varnish applied. In the meantime I have completed the major building part of another 'Earl' and she is now ready to head for the gritblaster followed by the paintshop. This particular version (Earl of Dartmouth) had plain rods and parallel buffer housings. Hear are a few photographs of the build so far. A quick look at the Adams paint job. The 'pink' buffer beam is only the undercoat!! Regards Sandy

That is good to know, that the latest offerings have been updated. I know a lot of people knock the old Gateneal/Megga kits but I always found them interesting to build because I approached them in that frame of mind. It was quite enjoyable finding bits that needed adjustment or rebuilding as it helped to improve my skills as a builder. Old prototypes with 'Crew' front ends and cylinders integral with the smoke box, could keep you happily occupied for hours making new smoke box wrappers! Ah! happy days. Sandy PS the L1 is now looking the part!

Thanks for the heads up Ken, I'll steer clear of that one!! Sandy

I too thought that Rathven was a good candidate for a small model. I had considered it for a 4mm layout many years ago but it never got of the drawing board. Sandy

Happy Easter Ken. I would bet a cream egg that the sand pipe is going to touch the rail top!!!!! I do like your modifications though. Sandy

Nice Peter Can you show us a close-up photograph of your blade modification for the cutting of louvers? Sandy

Shame it's not 7mm! I want one!!! Sandy

HI STeve, What scale is this please? Can you include it in the title? Regards Sandy

Very nice, Peter. Sandy

That is a very attractive and unusual model Peter. Well done. Sandy

Thanks Kev and Peter I had a nightmare with the tender. First, a run on one side, then the varnish went funny, but came out in the end. Sandy

Hi Peter I note that you say "(Lead glued underneath).". Is this because you have effectively built a sealed box? My reason for asking is that I have been told in the past that you should not seal an item that has been put together with solvent as it continues to give of a gas/vapour long after it has been built and can cause distortion and delaminating of the plastic in the long term. Are you able to put in some vent holes in the floor? Kind regards Sandy