Pete the Elaner

No surprises there. While driving to Peterborough show, I mentioned to Tommy that you would be in Dutfield's at around the same time.

Does this mean you have a list somewhere of those interested in buying one? If so, how would I add myself to it please?

If it is anything like mine, you have nothing to worry about. Mine had possession of the down fast on my layout for the last 4 months. It ran flawlessly: no hesitation, no stalling, no derailments. I needed to pack some stock away to do more work on the layout, so my E-train is now safely in its box. Having read the instructions, I thought this would take 30 minutes but, even doing it very carefully, it took longer to fit the individual packs into the foam than it did to disconnect the carriages. I wonder how long (if ever) it will be before it runs again? Maybe quite a while because my layout is 1930s...or 1990s with OHLE depending on which scenic section I have fitted.

I thought it ran on Diesel fuel but shouldn't be called a 'Diesel Engine' because this refers to an internal combustion type?

That looks like a 317/2 which I don't believe ever ran on the WCML. 317/1s have a different roof profile at the end. Is that what you mean by 'headcode'? I have the same issue in 4mm because I am building the next station along the line.

Mine is London WCML (well it will be when I get some scenery on it) so would be good for the P train... ...except I am building a 1930s version now then an updated one later.

I think I saw 90042 in Euston on the sleeper service one morning this week so I think it is taking its turn on other portions of the service too.

I don't have an issue being Railroad quality, but it is only £10 less than a pair of HST power cars which are vastly superior models. The 91 & Mk4 DVT are older toolings & do not justify anywhere near the cost of a modern tooled HST. A customer who wants to buy it more as a toy will surely consider it too expensive & buy something Railroad instead.

There may be some aspect of 60/70s being a lot to do with aesthetics but I think a lot is to do with crash structure now. That's why most modern cars are a lot heavier than their predecessors & look a lot more like tanks.

It sounds like you are trying to fit it from below? I have only ever fitted a motor with the board upside down. It is much easier to locate the pin in the tiebar. Edit: I remember having to re-motor a point on a friend's layout at an exhibition & did that from below. I was able to get almost directly below it though. I always find working under the layout to be extremely uncomfortable. How are you enjoying DCC in general?

In what way? It is my regular line so the standards are what I have become used to. Pendolinos feel little different now to when they were introduced & Euston's concourse is still the tidiest (ok & it has the least character) of any London terminus because it is separate from the train shed. On the odd occasion I use the ECML, it feels more like a branch line because it is so lightly used.

It does indeed sound like NCE. if so, it is possible to get higher functions. To do this, you first need to configure the Option button as a "+10 function" button. By default is is a brake button, but us men don't read instructions unless we really have to so the operator will (like I did until about 5 minutes ago) think that it is currently a pointless button To configure the option button for this, you need to go through cab setup mode as follows: Press & hold down Select while plugging in the cab. You are now in cab setup mode. Changing the function of the Option button is about the 5th choice. Enter will accept the previous setting for each choice. When you get to Option, it should say 94 (factory setting to use it as a brake). Type in 122 here. After you enter this, press Prog/Esc & you are ready to go. That may sound complicated but it makes a lot more sense when you follow it on the throttle. Those instructions were from my PowerPro ("full fat" system) manual. I am not sure where my PowerCab manual is but I expect it will be the same. I like 10 & 11: more turbines firing up. Remember to select them again to turn them off though. I think the decoder only plays 5 sounds simultaneously & the display does not show you the higher ones are running.

The reviews act as advertising for the model & the manufacturer. After reading the review, many who would not otherwise may look out for Rapido's next model.

You are missing a very important point. One which gets mentioned less than it should: DCC is not about features, it is about driving trains. I bought my first budget DCC system a few years ago: 1 controller/throttle & 3 chips. I was happy with DC & cab control but thought I would give DCC a try just to see what all the fuss was about. Within minutes I had learned to program acceleration & deceleration rates & this changed things completely. All of a sudden I was driving trains for the first time. I had to think about braking well in advance of where I wanted to stop. Isn't this what a train driver has to do? It felt completely different to operating with my DC simulator controller. It was too easy to cheat with that by winding up the brake to max. It also put me in control of trains. I was no longer choosing which one by switching sections on & off. The feeling of driving the train is understated. It is more fun than I can make it sound in a few sentences. Features (lights & sound) are extra toys made possible by DCC. They are addictive & fun but only a minor benefit compared to the feel it gives you of driving a train. I also found a potential issue with a larger DC cab control layout. It has 5 different circuits & requires 3-5 controllers. I was going to use rotary switches to choose controllers because they have enough selectable positions. I then discovered that the standard electronic rotary switches have a max current rating of 300mA, so a loco under moderate load could easily burn it out. I searched for suitable switches & found that they are upwards of £30 each. Ouch! DCC provides a solution to this issue. I've heard the comment about "staring at PC screens / being controlled by computers" before. It is complete nonsense & I am sure I am not the only person to think you sound silly by saying it. I have a PC in my layout room but it is rather pointless for running the layout. My system's throttles provide a much better interface for this. I sometimes use the PC for playing music while I work on the layout but it is most useful for displaying photos of the location I am modelling so I can re-create it as accurately as possible. Not wanting to spend for a more expensive control system because you would rather spend your money on other things (more trains, some new shoes for the wife etc) or even just because you want to do things the traditional way are as good reasons as any for using DC.

Set up the tank & relax while you read the instructions on how to connect your APT.

Indeed, but they were never designed to run with Mk4 coaches. The Mk4 DVT has a different profile. Incidentally, does anyone remember that the first Hornby 'Mk3 DVT' in Virgin livery was really a Mk4?

That depends on who you believe. I think Scotsman's significance is blown way out of proportion. & the claims it is the 'most famous' - Rubbish. Rocket & Mallard are more famous. Rightly so too. Scotsman is only 'famous' because LNER's publicity team hyped it up. Does anyone remember what happened with the LNER/GWR loco swap in the 1920's. The GWR wanted to overhaul it because by their standards, it was worn out! They were shocked when the LNER told them it had only just been done. City of Truro has just as much claim to being the first 100mph loco. There are just as many reports of the Scotsman's achievement of this feat being exaggerated. Before it was preserved, the only thing historically significant about Flying Scotsman was its name. APT-E on the other hand pioneered hydrokinetic braking, used some new wheel technology (which is publicly the least well understood but often regarded as most important development) & of course tilting. The knowledge gained from the last 2 is still being used today.

That's quite a shocking thought..to preserve something for 20+ years then scrap it. This is a significant part of our railway history but in a different way to many of the steam locos which are kept cosmetically in good condition but are never likely to run again. Thinking back to its days outside the NRM it did look badly neglected. It looks much better at Shildon now it has had some attention.

Locomotion released a video of a pre-production model running on DC with sound so I think you'll be safe. Sounds comes from both power cars but is controlled by just the 1 chip, hence the multi-pin connectors.

Why should you need a button? Ignoring is a manual process.

Keep patient & enjoy driving trains in the mean time. DCC is a little less forgiving about short circuits but the principles are the same.

I had not noticed that until I saw the earlier pic in this thread. This is probably because mine has been on my outside running line with my P train next to it. This is smaller than most too.

DIN & XLR connections have been mentioned but how many connections can they cope with 5/6/7 max? Assuming you are controlling points, 4 points require 9 connections for solenoid motors, then you will need your track circuits.I soon use up 15 connections. I use D plugs because that is what I was brought up with & they have never given me a problem. They won't last forever though. The better quality ones are rated for a minimum of 100 connection cycles, but any type of connector has a limit The pins are also small so won't carry an unlimited amount of current. If your ecxpected current is going to be anywhere near the limit of the pin, then spread the load across more than 1 pin. The solder lug buckets take a bit of practise to solder neatly but, like an earlier comment, I find DIN plugs infinitely more fiddly. A tip I learned thehard way at a show many years ago is not to attach the cable to a board & just plug one end in. Sooner or later, somebody will move a board while inadvertently standing on a cable. Wire in a socket on each board & plug the cable in at both ends.

Please don't mention how late you ordered it. Someone is bound to get upset.

Yes, I read somewhere (on here I think) that these are powered directly from the track, not from the chip.