richbrummitt

Top work. No one will be able to measure your planking anyway! It's amazing how many real uses coffee stirrers have.

Would this be a Masterclass Models etched kit? I remember discussing at Newbury how heavy you thought they came out.

Thanks Will. I can see more of the bank balance disappearing into a GW till. I really like their paint but wish they did more colours to suit what I require. Ho hum. That picture in your reply is rammed with detail and subtle colouring. Very nice.

I've only ever seen the NMRA guidlines quoted, and I'm sorry I can't remember what they are.

It's easy to be harsh on yourself (I know, I suffer from the same) striving to do better. Reality is always kinder than the camera at this size and I think I'd be really happy with what you achieved. I also know what you mean about brushes. Dry brushing really does seem to hurt them - a lot. I notice you have one of those stippling brushes with short hard/stiff bristles. How are they? I've looked at them but am not sure what applications they have and how the effects are. I imagine that you get small splotches somewhere between drybrushing without all the paint removed and using kitchen paper on paint that is still wet?

These will be the focal point of the layout as people look out for the next train after seeing the previous one leave so well worth all the effort you put in for such excellent results. I got a daylight lamp with three 15watt tubes in for the bench and it's one of the best tools I've bought. I've managed to pose it just in front of my brow and the light level is superb, however I do get a bit warm whilst working.

I recently 'upgraded' my modelling bookcase (there is no space for them on two full height bookcases in the living room because of the wife's books) from one A4 height shelf plus two others to 3 A4 height shelves because of growing quantities of larger books. I'm on to the third shelf already now I've bound my journals so will have to start being selective! Fortunately people have been kind and found all the out of print reference titles I wanted as presents over the last decade.

Good work there. I am finding your posts of interest. There is/has been a reasonably comprehesive partwork on GWR horseboxes in GWRJ recently and many are not as modern as you think. The model looks like an N16. The roundel 'lettering' came in in '34 so it could be fairly new in service for your time period. What I believe is out of period is lime washed cattle wagons. The lime wash was found to cause damage to the feet of the cattle and its use was discontinued in the 1920s.

I wouldn't consider myself an expert - I started with models at a very early age, and model trains 20 years ago - more well practised. I haven't tried very hard to be honest. I intend to pick someone else's brains on how to adjust them because I suspect that like most things it is not that difficult, once you know how.

So you should have links then. I prefer the look and opertation of Alex Jacksons to anything else I have seen and used. The answer to flexibility is to have a coil (look up an article by Jim Watt in the magazine archive). If you avoid lifting by the ends and pack your stock so the coulings are protected (i.e. in open space) then you shouldn't see many go wayward if they are set up properly. I have made a small pile and even fitted them to a pair of vans but have struggled with adjusting them. I actually prefer (at the moment) shunting with links and only plan on having other types of couplings on coaching stock that has gangways.

What type of couplings does your prototype have? If they are buckeyes then microtrains couplings might be a good option. I am one of the odd individuals Don refers to.

Are these plain (3-106) or flanged (3-107)? I've only ever used the latter. They have always been a nice sliding fit up to the point where the flange meets the spoked face. I've done both. I was advised not to linger with the iron if soldering, I presume because there is a risk of disturbing the tyre. Gluing with epoxy also proved successful. Using superglue will stink when you heat the crankpin later to solder the retaining washer for the rods.

Thank all. Patience Kevin. The instructions are being written. I figured that most people would like instructions? They will be available soon.

I hadn't thought about doing more than the pair or two that I need for some unfinished kits.

I guess some of you might have been wondering how the kit design was going. If not then maybe you will be interested enough to read on anyway. I've now built enough to know that all the permutations will work and only some very very minor changes will be needed before I reach a final version. Here's the proof Left to Right: Diagram O4, Diagram O6 (O5 with end door conversion), Diagram O1. I stopped building when I ran out of parts. Everything else will need to be begged bought or otherwise obtained to complete. A close up of diagram O1. I had to file the chassis a bit to fit between the tabs for the solebar, but everything else went together well enough. Also in the picture is the tail end of the milk train; part of a milk brake van (also under construction and at the point where the parts run out) converted from pharmacy cars after WWI and allocated diagram O13. It is a Blacksmith kit. O6 showing the end doors. According to my main source of reference (the excellent work by Slinn and Clarke) there were not many of these built, but I couldn't resist doing the end doors as an extra. I have still to build the O5 kit as intended, but I was able to check it worked on the way to making this model. The filled in planks are missing from the sides. An oversight on my part that is easily fixed. I also need to make sure there are enough lamp irons for this version. It has different side ones compared to diagram O5 because of the end doors. O4. The same subject as in the original post about these items though now the roof profile is corrected, the fill ins for livery are present. All I am going to change here is the same as for all the others. That is, to give the springs a little more material where they meet the hanger because they are rather spindly for my liking and a probable weak point. This is the only vehicle here built with a cleminson chassis. The others have my own design with a sliding centre axle that will be provided. Any of them can be built by either method. Also in this picture is another brake van from a Blacksmith kit. The dean bogies are something I've been working on for a few kits. Fitting the spring hangers will require removal of the footboards. More on this one another time. Hopefully next time you see the siphons they will be finished. I keep telling myself that I must finish things.

As Kris alluded; you can use the filing jigs, but the assembly jigs would be wrong. However if you speak to the right people nicely and tell them your requirements it is possible to get custom jigs made to suit your purpose. The jigs are not strictly necessary, however they do make things easier. If you have 9mm button gauges and N roller gauges it is possible to make N gauge points with easitrac components.

Like sidecar racer said, cheap ones.

Another option (if you haven't got the 3 railcars yet) is to wait a while longer for the etched version from worsley works and build that.