dj_crisp

Thanks Jules I'm going to have a rest from 60s for quite some time now. Cheers Will

Hi Wayne It's admittly very random when I have a go at a 47.... TBH I've not written up much on them. They're all Vitrains and I've bashed a body of a RES example earlier on the thread. But I thought I'd try and improve it a little further and 47600 is probably most advanced currently - although as soon as I've finished building buffer stops I plan on attacking the NSE example. I'm aiming for them to be examples from the Waterloo to Exeter or Paddington to Oxford routes that I have a photo of. cheers Will

For the first time in an age I've done a bit of Loco Modelling.... well not particurly taxing. Rubbed on some DRD transfers, a bit of final weathering and a coat of satin varnish; 60037 Helvelyn Galzing since fixed!! 60064 Back Tor (hopefully looking a bit battered) Enjoy the Sunshine Will

Hi Derek Thanks for looking in and commenting. I'm very happy with EM and don't regret starting out on the EM route - best thing I've done and I hope you enjoy it too! The peco ready to lay stuff looks brilliant and if I didn't already have some built points then I'd have definitely used them. I'm hoping they do a flat bottom version which would be ace. Many moons ago I used to have an OO layout which I really enjoyed but found the running qualities to be rather naff due to different wheel types, poor track holding and too tight curves on points etc etc. This time around I've decided to try and standardise buffer height, coupling height and wheel profiles. So I've gone for (where-ever possible) the RP25 profile of Branchlines and Ultrascales, and by replacing the wheels I might as well widen the gauge I still think p4 is beyond my abilities! I've not built the double crossover and bought it at a show mostly because I thought the builder of it did an excellent job! I planned on using it in a different layout and I'm sure it's not correct here, or the position of it. I just fancied being able to pose locos on the short siding leading off it and didn’t have space otherwise. Really I also think that siding shouldn't exist and a straightforward RH flat bottom point for entering the bay should be there instead. Saying all that I’m pleased I included it! I think the EM gauge society have plans for a double crossover although I may have made that up. (Certainly more likely before any talk of flat bottom track!) All in all based on my EM experience I'd say go for it and I hope you enjoy! cheers Will

So what do you do when you have a rare Friday Night to yourself....? Build a Colin Craig Adjustment Switch of course. After several hours I managed to knock this up A lovely kit which I'll make better and neater next time as I've learnt alot from this build, but still rather pleased with how this one looks. Filing the rails took the longest whereas everything else was straightforward. Rails are soldered to the etched spaces provided and for strength I soldered the rails from the underside together. I do have a difference in sleeper height between the flatbottom & copper clad/concrete sleepers which I'll sort out when laying. Probably shouldn't have used a steel and nickle silver rail mix but thats all i have so have gone for it. I understand these should be fitted between a flatbottom point and a section of welded rail, so I reckon I'll need to build four for the layout. Just need a few Fridays to myself! Happy Modelling! Will

Looks great Lee! I think it's worth it... the Windscreens are a subtle but excellent improvement. You've done a great job! Cheers Will

I'm liking how you're going about business and producing great wagons - hence a couple of orders from me I just need you guys to do a CDA next cheers Will

Dave I'll definitely be interested Cheers Will

Hi Vivien Really pleased you've found it interesting. Us talking 101 windows has got me thinking I should finish my lima effort. I'm attempting to get the layout up and running first but am missing bashing stock about. Work just gets in the way of good modelling time Cheers Will

Yep. Totally agree. I haven't fully decided whether to keep my lima project on the go or change to Bachmann. I have bits n pieces of both in my projects box so will have a play one day. To my eyes the lima body is better side on and Bachmann head on. Tbh both might benefit from the front window etches.

I've got a set to try out... they look pretty straightforward to fit. Being smaller than the overscale originals some filler will be needed. It's funny that I prefer the window size on the lima model to the real thing. Will

Thanks Jules! I'm rather enjoying it tbh and taking my time over making sure everything is aligned and in gauge. I've even had a 3rd attempt on the exit of the double slip to introduce a bit of a curve.... hence the slow progress! Well its all a steep learning curve for me!! I'm hoping to start moving onto board 2 soon which has less points which might be a bit quicker! Cheers Will

Jack - Looks great! Where did you source the super thin wire from? I've been after some really thin stuff to squeeze into my projects. Cheers Will

Very very smart. Great stuff Phil Cheers Will

Hi Wayne Great stuff and thanks! I'm still very fond of the lima model and with a bit of work they look great. I look forward to seeing yours! I do also like the Canton machines and my only regret is not doing a full metals one. At the price they currently go for there is very little chance I'll do one! (There was a great period where the Canisp model was in the £50-60... Sadly not anymore.) Cheers Will

Track laying continues; The two new points have been wired and each section of track have had droppers installed - I now just need to wire them up and check there are no shorts. The flat bottom crossover has loads more droppers added which have improved running qualities immensely. I've also decided to lay flat bottom track into part of the bay and the branch entering the fiddleyard meaning that pretty much all of the track from the layout as purchased will be relayed. This meant swapping out a bit of bullhead to FB from the double slip. Bullhead points are so much easier to get working than Flat Bottom! I'm definitely happy with the Ambis tiebars and these will be my standard from now on. I think there should be at least two per point... which i've done for the far point but I've been lazy with this one; Proper wood workers please look away now; I've hacked a hole for a kadee uncoupler and will be experimenting with getting this working. This has now been covered with thin cork so its in for good. I also have some left over plywood from a bathroom DIY project which conveniently are 4ft long and just needed chopping in half which took me a while as i only have a hand saw. It's a bit OTT for a backscene but I also intend it to also protect the rest of the layout when in storage. I had thought it might be a little shallow but when placed with an 09 for size it looks about right to me (or even a little tall). Eventually the front will be framed and I need to research lightweight framing to prevent it warping.

I'm impressed with your finish using rattle cans. I've had no end of trouble with paint lift when applying the second grey so I might have ago with these. cheers Will

Definitely of interest. Thanks for sharing

I planned more progress than I've achieved and have been trying to get the layout up and running with what track has been installed. Started off by installing a cobalt on the remaining flatbottom point on the crossover which eventually worked. Then had to track a short down which turned out that the frog wasn't properly insulated... My 09 subsequently refused to run smoothly through the crossover so spent the next hour or so tracking down dead spots which needed extra wiring. Aha a bit of success as my 09 now can crawl through all the track on the layout.... until my original flat bottom point stopping fully throwing. Grrrr. Sometimes I hate modelling and wonder why i went down the EM route! After reading every track book i have about tie bars I've had a go at seeing if i can fit some Ambis etches. Surprised myself in that my first attempt looks ok. I've drilled a small hole each side on the pcb for the dropper to the tou and before i fit the point I'll probably solder it on (athough I'm not sure i need to). Part of me is tempted not to bother with the tou at all but will fit this one to see if it works and it's so much easy messing about before they're fitted! (sorry for the terrible photo from my phone) Next up is to fit a second cosmetic tie bar a few sleepers up but it all seems ok and seems a bit more robust/refined than my other efforts. Maybe this modelling malarky is so bad afterall... but I'll find out if thats the case if this works!

One of the five buffer stops needed for Bisley. Primer next.... then fitting to the layout when I've done the rest of the track. Its a rather nice kit from Lanarkshire models and I've used broken sleepers and chairs from lifting one of the sidings. The instructions give tips on how to prevent shorts. I've used a bit of plastic rod and some plastic shims so there shouldn't be a short. Not sure it's totally necessary tbh!

DCC is full of challenges! I still haven't cured the buzz of the tortoise and cobalts. Fitted a second tortoise and for some reason the DR4018 refuses to throw a point (and point) on one cv. Tried a reset and still hasn't got enough power to throw. I'm a bit stumped on this one. On the positive side of things the double slip is wired in and surprisingly works

True... and this one will hopefully need a fair few functions! Always a compromise needed somewhere and I'll always go for something practical (I use kadees after all). Still think they could designed something a little more discrete which could tuck in closer the corridor connection and be a bit thinner.

How not to do layout planning; I placed some track down to try and imagine what it'll all look like - there is probably a bit too much and I worked out what to do scenery wise at the back of the layout (LHS in the photo). But then again with too much track it'll probably be more interesting to operate! Board 3 (currently unbuilt) will be shorter as I have limited space and will have a bit more of the station. I'm planning on an offset station so only the bay and up main will have a platform in this shot. Looks like I should be able to fit at least a 2 car DMU in the bay. The foam on the right has had a bit of a hack to allow a longer fertiliser siding. Now just go to work out the best material to cover it and start forming some contours. Also had a go at installing a tortoise motor on the double slip with limited success. Point doesn't always throw... as the wire simply bends. Something to try and fix but I may have to try a thicker gauged wire. cheers Will

Hi Alex, Sorry about that. Me being dumb and missing the basket on my phone.... customers causing trouble eh By the way I really like your new website and the new payment process was a doddle. cheers Will

I've tried an an old Maplin switchable power supply to see if this improved things. On 12V DC it's noiser than my other 12V DC power supply... and when switched to output at 9v DC is quieter but about the same as the new 12V DC power supply. Probably not the greatest experiment as the Maplin supply is pretty old. However it did show me the DR4018 works with a lower supply (wasn't that happy when i tried 7.5V to see what happens ) I'm wondering if the sound I'm hearing is normal for Tortoise in the stall position - I don't have anything to compare to as this is my first. the 12v DC supply is definetly alot quieter than direct from the DR5000!