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Colin parks

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Blog Comments posted by Colin parks

  1. Hi Jeff,

     

    I am doing well thanks.

     

    The 2 BIL chassis are not too far off a 2 HAP version in most respects.  For the trailer coach, just removing the three fuse boxes and re-positioning the shorter one in the same place on the corridor side would be just about all that is needed. I have recently noticed that my 2 HAPs are missing their motor generators.  It only took me six years to notice!  

     

    The Hornby drive unit is certainly very smooth and with 2 HALs going for £60 over here, it is very tempting to buy one or two to transform into something based on the common 62ft underframe.

     

    All the best,

     

    Colin

  2. Hi SRman,

     

    The brake van is coming along nicely and looks the part next to the loco. The 'antique' brake gear arrangement is interesting.

     

    I did wonder if you could set the couplings back a little more. I have found that if the coupling bar's leading edge is set just 0.5mm forward of the buffer heads, the wagon should negotiate 3ft radius curves without buffer-locking. If the bar is set 1mm forward of the buffers, 2ft radius curves would be possible.

     

    It's up to you of course, perhaps there is no clearance to do this on the brake van's chassis.

     

    I do like looking at models of unusual prototypes being built.

     

    All the best,

     

    Colin

  3. Hi SRman,

     

    Sounds like you have as much of the green paint as I have of 'Engineers' Olive', also mixed at the local decorating shop! 

     

    The wiring arrangement looks neat, with plenty of scope for the interior lighting over the partitions. What will you use for the flash unit?  Someone I spoke to last year (forgotten who!) proposed using a bright LED fitted facing downwards through the floor - don't know he ever succeeded.

     

    All the best,

     

    Colin

  4. Hi SRman,

     

    Nice to see another Tin Hal up and running!  I'd agree with you that glazing one of these models is easier with a flat material, but curved panes do look and fit better.  For absolute madness, you could cut out each piece to have the fixed window panes fitting  flush to the sides.  The drop lights are set back further, so a bit less taxing. 

     

    The green livery looks very smart.  What make of paint did you use for the body colour?

     

    All the best,

     

    Colin

  5. I see you are hiding you light under a bushel Adam!

     

    I have only just found this blog entry with these two wagons. They are just right in appearance, especially the weathering. Paul Bartlett's website is certainly an essential source of information on wagons in service in the 1970's. I am building some similar wagons to yours, as you might have seen. I had forgotten that Ratio made a Medfit (out of the hobby for along time!). My brother (Cambrian Models) is going to make SR 3-plank and 5-plank (both drop-side) wagon kits later this year.

     

    Colin

  6. I've never tried one of their full kits - I'm tempted by the HAP and SUB though. At the rate I build EMUs cost isn't really an issue - I'll get many hours of entertainment for my ??100+

     

    If the etched bits are anything to go by, then they must be pretty good.

     

    Next projects are to be a couple of electro-diesels. A DC kits 74 and a detailed Hornby 73/0.

     

    Dear Pete,

     

    I agree that there are many hours of fun to be had making EMU kits. There are some people who quote seven or eight hours to put a 2 BIL together - I'm not one of those and nor are you! The N.N. Bulleid style EPB looks to be of very high quality, although I was surprised that wire held with split pins should be suggested for the roof conduit.

    The Hornby class 73 is certainly worth a go. I spent a great deal of time on chopping up the chassis detail between the bogies and creating a 3-D set of underframe components. Mine is repainted from the Fragonset 'Spitfire' model which gives an easily prepared black undercoat for the BR blue livery once the printed names, logos and numbers are removed. Order your set of Ultrascale wheels now if you want it running this year! (They can supply 13mm dia. replacement wheelsets which only require the removal of a small amount of plastic on the motor bogie moulding to accomodate the flanges). The Ultrascale wheels made a lot of difference to the running and appearance of my 73. Out of the box, the model won't run on code 75 track, at least not SMP bullhead.

    The constuction of a DC Kits class 74 was subject of an article in BRM a few years ago. Watch out for the bogies, they seem to be tricky..

     

     

    Colin

  7. Colin,

     

    It occurred to me that it might be possible to use the Hornby Maunsell body as a base for the Branchlines parts. It's the right profile but is too short.

     

    The only Hal drawing I have to hand is the highly suspect one in the recent Gouding book on EMUs, but it looks as though the Hal body minus it's domed roof cab is about the same length as the 59' loco hauled coach.

    New flat inner ends and a domed cab roof would be needed.

     

    Peter

     

    Hi Pete,

     

    There are quite a lot of suspect drawings about!

    I have thought about the 2 HAL and might shelve th project for now. The SR designed EPB is much more suitable for my project. Have you built a No-Nonsense kit before? Old Lugger has one of their kits fot the EPB and it looks just right - if a little costly.

     

    Colin Parks

  8. Colin,

     

    The Bil is in some of the earlier posts - blogs are latest post first, ordinary topics are latest post last for some obscure reason.........

     

    I've been toying with the idea of a pre-war HAL, but haven't done anything yet. There seem to be 3 options - the hard to get hold of and slightly crude Phoenix kit, the Branchlines conversion for the also hard to get hold of Kirk 2-Bil, and the massively expensive and slightly wonky looking Ajay resin kit.

     

    And I could always start a wish list blink.gif

     

    Using the Branchlines bits without the Kirk kit sounds interesting though. I'm guessing it's a set of brass body overlays and detailing parts?

     

    Yes Pete, sorry I've not replied to your question before now, it's been hard to get on the system. I agree with your analysis of the kit situation for 2 HALs. I'm still thinking about the Branchlines 2 HAL option, but it would mean an all-brass body and roof (Branchlines sell a 'Universal' roof with etched fold lines on the back). Of course, there is a rumour of a ready to run 2 BIL from Hornby. We could stick the Branchlines' etched sides on that instead couldn't we?!

  9. Dear Pete,

     

    I've just seen your pictures of the 2 BIL's progress. It's very interesting to compare your kit with mine and how you are going about the detailing. I have detailed mine following the Andy Mullins drawings from Branchlines and some guess-work about the centre buffers etc.. You have just the one buffer. I have put one short buffer on each coach as per a PDH drawing. I now think they're incorrect but it's too late now for me!

    Your work on the running boards along the solebar is a great improvement on the Kirk mouldings too

    Colin Parks

  10. Hi Pete,

     

    You mention a 2 BIL. I'd like to see a photo of that! I have just finished mine, although not completely satisfied yet with the running on the Black Beetle motor bogie.

    Have you considered making a pre-war 2HAL? Branchlines have all the bits (apart from the Kirk 2 BIL kit!). I think it could be done without the Kirk plastic kit parts and scratchbuilding those 'missing parts' instead. 2BILs and 2HALs commonly ran together.

     

    Colin Parks

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