davetheroad

Right ,lets find out the problem by elimination of the possibilities. It could be the Rx, the Tx or the loco 1. Remove the battery and Rx from the loco and test without a motor connected, don't forget to insulate the ends of the wires! Has the problem gone away? If YES it looks like a loco problem? Fit back to the loco, does the problem recur? If yes it is the loco If NO it could be the Rx or the Tx 2.If you have another Rx 61 test that off loco, if it works OK fit it to the loco, does the problem recur, if YES it IS the loco 3. If the alternative Rx/Tx combo shows the fault which is it? Maybe the Tx I have just tested 7 Rx's with 2 Tx's, Two Rx62, Three Rx61 and two Rx60. I tried turning the pot as fast as I could from 100% forward to 100% reverse. the LED stayed solidly on and the loco did not run away. Are you in the UK? If so and you still have the Tx/Rx combo problem you could post the Rx to me and will test it with my Tx's, I have 5 of them!. Contact me if you want to try that.

Have you any other Rx's? If so try another one. Fit it plus the battery in a wagon and run the motor leads to the loco. Have you made any paperclip changes?

Has your Rx-61 the latest software version? Have you done any programming on it? Also continuous running on loss of selecta position could last as long as the 'sleep' time. i think the minimum time for sleep might be one hour! Try running the test again with inertia set to zero. All the inertia pot does is 'wind up' the throttle %age delivered from the Tx over a variable time, This works for deceleration as well so if you shift the throttle rapidly from 100% forward to 100% reverse the inertia setting will cause the deceleration to stop and acceleration to full reverse to take a number of seconds, or maybe a minute or so if you have a high inertia setting. There is also an programmable inertia setting in the Rx. This governs how long the Rx takes to go from 0 to 100%. It can be varied between instant and 8 seconds, I think the default is 1 second. You can't change this on the fly like you can with the inertia pot on the transmitter.

Thanks, I will be ordering tomorrow edit - no stock anywhere

I have knocked an aerial off a Deltang Rx a few times, after which nothing worked properly or consistently. Get the aerial fixed before trying anything else. That creep issue is interesting. The Deltang TX transmits 49! data packets per second. In that packet is the current throttle setting which the Tx reads from the pot. I wonder where that irritating leccie is coming from?

I have been wrestling with traction problems for the last few days but mine are on level track!. I am expanding my modelling era from the 1950's to include the period up to the early 70's and spent a lot of money on a rake of 12 Bachmann Blue/grey MK1 coaches. The problem is my Hornby Class 40 just spins its wheels and my Lima Class 40 does better but is not happy starting the rake on curves. The cause of the problem? An equivalent Hornby MK 1 rake is a lot more forgiving and the Lima romps away with it. I set up an incline and conducted rolling tests. Those Bachmanns are dogs!. The Hornby's with metal or plastic wheels roll a lot further and surprisingly the plastic wheels on RR models are best of all. Then there is weight, the Bachmanns are all at least 30g heavier than the Hornby's and I can't see any reason why? I have spent a agonising couple of days removing the 33g ballast weights. Bachmann really don't make it easy! Now the coaches are about 125g, similar to the Hornby's. I also fettled the bogies I am now doing rolling tests and the Bachmann's are a bit better but not much. There may be light at the end of the tunnel, I fitted Hornby metal wheels and it improved matters, further testing is needed but I notice the Hornby axle length is shorter so Bachmann wheel sets are rubbish?. More testing is needed and I think I will fit a set of Hornby plastic wheels just to see what happens. The second stage will be improving the traction of the locos if fettling the coaches does not work. edit - most of the coaches have a preferred direction of movement, they offer more resistance depending on which is the 'front' end,. I wonder why?

A smaller form factor is key, plus a fully functional android App. I asked if they could implement battery voltage monitoring and they said the capability was on the board but not implemented. Have they done this yet? The final killer was that awful touch screen interface requiring hand/eye coordination. I want tactile feedback so I can operate the throttle while looking at the train. I have two boards in the drawer, perhaps I should sell them.

I run most of my locomotives, Lima, Bachmann and Hornby without the hooks in the tension locks as in my experience they are not needed. Some that might be double headed retain the hooks.

Thanks Sarah My local DIY store had a general purpose metallic silver acrylic spray at a cheap price so I bought one and tried it. Works like a charm and a good match for the original finish. Now I need some coal loads which I could make out of some water pipe foam lagging.

I am about to start repainting a number of Hornby HAA hoppers into early livery and have to remove all the later branding markings and repaint the bodies because removing the logos etc also removes the metallic finish. Is there a suitable spray can paint to do this job for example one of the Humbrol Metalcotes? thanks in anticipation

Thanks people I can now feel comfortable that it could be prototypical if I do a quick body swop to change a green diesel into a blue one, at least for some classes.

I understand that when BR adopted blue for its diesel locos with small logo the bufferbeams were painted black, however were there any locos that retained the red buffer beams after being painted blue?

It could be considered an advantage of Deltangs equipment that although I believe he is a one man business the transmitters and receivers are not strictly propriety. They are firmly based on the technology used in controlling model planes/boats and cars. I understand David Theunissen was a UK pioneer in radio controlled model electric planes and still has his Fly Electric site. You can control Deltang receivers with model plane controllers and there is nothing to stop some enterprising person to design and build their own transmitters (does someone in Oz do this?) As those transmitters output data packets in standard hobby flying format producing independent receivers should be possible as well. One thing I like about radio control is that you can run different systems on the same layout. It does not matter if some of your locos are Deltang, some Protocab and some BlueRail, The problem only comes if you want to consist them. Deltang and BlueRail have consisting and I think the next version of Protocab so don't panic folks! Thanks for the info on building a kit transmitter Mick. I think I might have a go at building a Tx20 kit for my Hornby smokey joe as it is my only loco that uses a 'low off' throttle, the rest use 'centre off' and things can get confusing.

On the Rc Trains site it says...Not taking new TX orders ATM.. Parts supply issues I think ATM means at the moment Their transmitters look different to the Deltang ones so maybe they are awaiting deliveries of their overlays etc

Try micron Radio control, they appear to have them in stock

More irritation, I ordered 2 locos on Monday and they arrived this morning. Of course there was nobody at home because Hattons had not sent me an email with the Royal Mail tracking number. Now I have to trail to the depot which is miles away Thinks, this has happened before.

These PCB SIL single in line sockets and connectors are dirt cheap and very useful, I use them a lot TIP - want a connector and plug you cant plug in the wrong way round? Simple, wire up 3 connectors so the centre one is positive and the two outside are negative. wire the 2 outsides together and you have a connector that works every time.

I had a order arrive by courier on Wednesday. 11 days is not to bad although the courier wanted to deliver twice and I imagined having 2 complete orders!. Only one order arrived so it appears Hattons are getting back to normal.

Have look at this video of a Lima loco having a major service. In addition I replace the motors of mine with ones from diesel trains which give them better slow speed running https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=servicing+a+lima+diesel+loco&qpvt=servicing+a+lima+diesel+loco&view=detail&mid=4D20ACD6E32F295868464D20ACD6E32F29586846&FORM=VRDGAR

I ordered just under £300 of stuff on Saturday the 7th. I got the confirmation email and the money left my Paypal account but nothing since, no packing or tracking email. I guess tomorrow I will be in touch with them demanding the goods or my money back. I have spent many thousands with Hattons over the years and so far have had good service. Thinks, if they are actually in trouble and go bust will I have lost that money?

Regional inspiration for me. the layout is based on the pre electrified WCML in Cumbria with Penrith and a touch of Oxenholme as the inspirations. The result is either Penholme or Oxenrith, both sound local, or maybe Penrigg or Oxenrigg. I will decide when I erect the station name boards.

I see today the pre owned section of the website has dissappeared

Advice please people First - which paint can would give the nearest match to an early HAA MGR hopper wagon cradle which I think is brown? Second - which paint can would give the nearest match to early TTA petrol tankers, the ones with the red solebar, I believe it is a shade of grey Third - which red for the solebar, brushed would be easier

Just noticed this topic and I am worried. I ordered several items on Saturday with delivery by courier. I got a confirmatory email of receipt of order and the cash has gone out of my paypal account. Also there are few listings for Lima second hand and pre owned pages were last updated on the 2nd.

Getting old and the resultant deterioration in eyesight and hands. This was the main reason I gave up 'N' a few years ago and even find 00 challenging sometimes