davetheroad

I have a new Stanier 1st class coach LMS version that I bought new a couple of years ago. It is sitting in its box awaiting the roof being painted a more reasonable colour than 'new' metal. I just tested it and it rolls away accelerating happily on my 1 to 100 test slope, on level track the 'finger tap' test has the coach traveling about 6 inches Are the brake blocks rubbing on the wheels? Are the back to backs OK

York Model rail www.yorkmodelrail.com have an extensive range of 00 scale white laser cut windows. they are not cheap though, for example a pack of four 16x24mm with 16 panes will cost £5

Apparently BlueRail sold all the first batch of Blue Horse boards, I think they made 800? The new second generation board release date is indicated to be summer 2018. I have 2 Blue horse boards and they work very well, customisation front end is very impressive. They are now sitting in a drawer because I can't get on with the touch screen interface. I am used to tactile feedback on the throttle ( a knob) but have been told you should be able to pair a small hand throttle with your smart device. The Android App never caught up in functionality with the Apple one either.

Now that WOULD be interesting. A control board that gives you all the advantages of DCC with an excellent easy to use customisation and eliminates DCC's main problem, the rail/wheel interface. The control App running on your smartphone or tablet will appeal to many younger modellers too. They have good models in the Railroad range. those diesels and electrics have vast space for the batteries. You can get hours of use out of a 4 x AAA NiMh rechargeable pack. Nah!. Blue Rails team up would have to be a USA/japan outfit because of market size

Forgive my ignorance but how do you damp proof card? I would hate to see it warping when painting.

I bought some magnets and 'borrowed' the baking tray from the kitchen. It has great potential once I find some steel section with vertical sides at least 2mm high.

I need a glueing guide for my layers of 10 thou plasticard cut on my cameo. Let me explain, I need to cut over 100 complex shapes for station canopy supports and want to ensure they line up accurately before applying the de-limonene. The items will be rectangles about 30mm x 70mm with the cut component embedded within it, a bit like some laser cut building kit sheets. Up to 8 sheets will make up the final canopy support. What I am thinking of is a 'L' shaped jig with an accurately machined internal 90 degree angle and vertical inside sides. The idea is I stack a number of layers in the jig and apply solvent to the outer edges which will be part of the final component. Let it set, cut off the unwanted bits and apply more solvent to the unglued edges, the result, hopefully is a neat final assembly. does such a jig exist?. It would only need to be a few millimetres thick

That happens too much for me as well. no I am not going to fit kadees!. The original tension locks had rigid bars and the Dapols are intentionally given side play. I glued mine solid for a much better performance when pushing wagons. As a lot of my wagons live in fixed rakes maybe glueing the hooks in place might solve things

I have 4 pairs of black livery locos, 3F 0-6-0, 2P 4-4-0, 2MT 2-6-0 and compound 4-4-0. In each case there is a 'dirty' one and a clean one. Plus as I model the 1950's the dirty ones have BRITISH RAILWAYS on the tender and the clean ones the logo.

I am time constrained by the capacity of the batteries in my radio controlled locos so I design the radio/battery installation to allow for a loco pulling a train for up to 20 minutes with a 2 hour 40 minutes 'idle' time. so it is a 3 hour session. With 12-15 locos operating and me driving them I find 3 hours is not enough but experience shows that 1 to 2 hours is the practical limit anyway what with other stuff getting in the way such as fiddling in the fiddle yard and the desire for tea and pee. Space constraints mean one end of the fiddle yard has the lift out access - aargh. one to two hours it is

You could also fit Hornby Class 37 to the Lima 50 but it would take more work. I have the bits to try such a project. If you use the Lima class 37 bogie consider fitting a replacement motor from diesel-trains

And loads of space for the batteries

You can also re motor the Lima and IMO it makes a smooth powerful loco www.diesel-trains.co.uk

If paper mache was invented today it would be called an advanced composite and everyone would be raving about it. apparently you can get a gloss ceramic finish by blending a suitable white paper and binding agent, then stick it in a mould etc

My converted Lima Class 47 hauls 12 Hornby Railroad Mk 1's with ease at over scale 60mph on 9v PWM DC, smooth as well. DCC should work as the motors are brushed but will need hard wiring. Don't forget to fettle the gears https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=servicing+a+lima+diesel+loco&qpvt=servicing+a+lima+diesel+loco&view=detail&mid=4D20ACD6E32F295868464D20ACD6E32F29586846&FORM=VRDGAR

I had to mutilate some Bachmann MK 1's to get at the weights so it is useful to know that 0.5 mm wire is suitable as a replacement. A related question is what colour are they. The bacchie ones are black and the Hornby moulded ones are the roof colour, which is correct?

What version of Studio is this new one with selectable multi cuts? I have v3.8.64ss but help says no upgrades are available

If you are using LED's make sure you buy good quality ones, apparently the cheapo variety will flood your railway room with radio frequency interference. I use fluorescent daylight tubes and bulbs, lots of lovely simulated daylight.

Not wide enough? If I was going to build a new layout the minimum width would be 2.7 metres clear, enough for 0.9m baseboards down the sides and a 0.9m operating well, trouble is you realise you need to win the lottery to afford a house with a big enough garden

Regarding windows why have any at all, especially in the door? If you need light on your modelling bench equip the shed with daylight temperature lighting plus a couple of extra lamps for the bench. My place has a combination of long fluorescent tubes and moveable fittings, 8 in all. You will need to provide ventilation of course but no windows makes security easier.

It's not real you made it all up didn't you! Incredible. How about animating that 'orse

Thanks people, I will leave the rail there and thin it down.

I am constructing a tender for this little 0-4-0 loco which is a Hornby 'Smokey Joe'. My question as about access to the tender from the footplate. On the model there is a cut out section at the rear of the cab with a rail across the top. If this rail was fixed the foreman could not reach the coal!. Could it be removed and if so how?

It works well once you practice how to apply it. I water it down slightly and use a brush to apply a thin even coat, then leave the wheels spinning for 30 minutes or so and then apply another coat. After applying the coats and another 30 minutes spin leave it overnight to cure. I have a few locos that are a bit light footed and it has cured them.

And the longer the block the harder to pull apart!. If you want several connections split the block into pairs and use coloured insulation tapes to code the wires.