PaulR

Both Cambrian and Furness versions had wheelbases of 5' 9" +6' 6" + 8' 6".

Knuckles, The Furness and Cambrian locos were almost identical, except for thFurness having left hand drive and slightly wider sidesheets to the cab sides.The Cambrian also had coal rails to the tender; only FR nos 124 and 125 had them.

Perhaps you should declare an interest: designing etched kits for London Road Models. 3D printing is here to stay and is expanding. It is particularly useful for difficult prototypes

It is tender driven using a Hollywood Foundry setup, so all 6 tender wheels are driven and of course I get a bigger motor than if I motorised the loco itself (not easy in a pre-grouping loco

My K2 is in EM and was built years ago by a friend for his then Anglo Saxon Railway. I repainted and lined it and put a new motor in it. It is in the now sadly neglected tin plate, which solders and takes paint beautifully. The chassis is brass and by Alan Gibson, from drawings I gave him years ago

So pleased to see some Furness models being produced. I already have a K2 in brass but would love to see a K3 and K4, as well as an M1. Some years ago I had a Neddie, No 16 and a Sharpie 2-2-2WT 3D printed on a non-commercial basis, which are still available, so I suggest you might want to steer clear of these (only the 2-2-2WT sold well). It's good to see chassis being 3D printed as well, which aids split chassis construction. I wish you every success

Mike, Have a look at Hollywood Foundry. I use their rigs to motorise the tenders of my pre-grouping locos. I find it makes life easier and you can have a larger motor than you would otherwise have

You might try cutting a Ratio chassis a little.I do this frequently although I like using heavier bogies, such as the Westward range from Puffers', now in North Yorkshire. They are made of white metal and provide a nice, heavy low centre of gravity

Chris P, I never weather pre-Grouping items except wagons. Most railway companies kept their passenger locos and coaches very clean as a matter of prestige and labour was cheap. I know this aspect has been discussed elsewhere and do not mean to reopen it

Chris P, Could I have a list of the items you are selling please?

Jason, It's pleasant to find a good product that is also so topical. I am using Ian Kirk sides; I just wish I had some ends as well. Hope it helps others doing the same

As an aside, I bought 2 pairs of the GNR guard's duckets off shapeway, as mentioned elsewhere on this topic. I was lucky enough to get free shipping and think the parts are very good indeed

You are most welcome CHris P. I totally agree with Mikkel's sentiments about "Pragmatic Pre-Grouping". I also use various colours of trimline and, a very cheap source of material, the tile decals available on ebay. I don't know what they are like on tiles but as a source of solid block colour, which can be cut very thinly and is self-adhesive, they are superb. I also use them on my printed coach sides

Chris P, I remembered the brand of tapes. It is Chartpak. Mine are 1/32" and they come in a variety of colours.I also use Trimline by MicroTechnics and there are the very useful decal lines from Hannants

My lining for the GN is probably a bit too yellow then although I see 3D models seems to show yellow lining. As I am hopeless with the pen I prefer to use tapes and decals

Chris P, It was a set of very thin tapes that I imported from the US.Unfortunately I cannot remember where from or what they are called but another way would be to get some tile decals off ebay and cut them very finely. They are self adhesive as well

May I add mine to the other admiring posts? Also, Dragon Models has decals of the GNR monogram, I bought some myself only the other week. As to lining, I am far from a GN expert, so I found your approach to it's colour very interesting . Carter states that GN coaches were lined in Chrome Yellow; on the net at large this seems to be very widely interpreted. Preserved vehicles seem to be almost white. I imagine that yellow fades very quickly in use (standing by for brickbats) but I have lined mine with a yellow self adhesive vinyl tape and will maimtain (if challenged) that they are not long out of the paintshop. The same goes for my pale version of varnished teak ( using the Precision Paints system ) although I have painted one in weathered teak, which looks much more like yours. Only trouble is, I think the yellow might look silly on the latter

Recently I have found that card is also a good medium for roofs, especially 6 wheelers

There is also the shamefully neglected tin plate as well.which is easy to shape and holds it well.Didn't pre-grouping coach roofs have stretched canvas on them as well?

I use an aluminium coach roof from a PC coach kit as a former for plastic roofs, otherwise the same method

I model pre-grouping and use Hollywood Foundry's tender drive units. I get all wheel drive and big motors in and not a Cardan shaft in sight!

Try taking the PXX out of the circuit completely.It could be that it is too sensitive for the inrush of current Paul

I have just received Locomotion's Great Northern C1. I model the Furness not the Great Noirthern, except incidentally, but just had to have this iconic engine. I imagine the Stirling single will be to similar standards, which will be wonderful.I cannot understand why some people complain about the price: to have one of these built and paintedto professional standards would cost well over £1500! Let us encourage the manufacyure of pre-grouping stock say I, and I will be puttoing my money where my mouth is

I am modelling Foxfield Junction, Furness Railway, as it was in 1912. I aim to add Woodland, a delightful rural station on the branch to Coniston and, hopefully, Green \Road on the main line.The track is to EM standards and will use DCC sound, unless I switch it to Dead Rail, which tempts me strongly. It occupies my garage, so gets a bit cold in winter! As a one man band, I have turned to technology to help me and have had 3 locos made by 3D printing and have made my coach sides in acetate or card digitally drawn and printed.