uax6

Is the leading axle off a class 40, thereby allowing the speedo to be fitted to the tender relatively cheaply? It looks like a very sensible and subtle way of doing it. Andy G

Same for the Jidenco/Falcon Brass kits... Although I have to say that the castings generally are very good, and very useful! Andy G

In my bodging threads, I take photos as I go, so that you can see what I'm doing at each stage. I have to say I've not updated them for a couple of years (the black dog has affected my modelling in that time, but I'm beginning to come out of it, and hopefully I'll be able to update things (and probably re-load the photos). The lack of step by step photo teaching is one of the big problems with kit building, if you are a tyro to it, you can easily become stuck when things don't quite work out, but not yet have the skills to work around the issue. I'm no expert, but by photoing each step I hoped it sort of showed how I bodged around things and pushed myself to get better... Andy G

It does make you wonder how many of this kits are still knocking around unmade. I've got a Jamieson kit for a Caley Jumbo in the pile. And then there is the Jidenco/Falcon Brass kits for HR classes in the pile too. Interestingly these are also in boxes that are no use for storing the finished locos in..... When the FB kits were still available, they were still expensive kits for what you got, the best bits being the castings that came with them... Andy G

An interesting photo for a few reasons. Look at the sleepers, mainly 'economy' concrete ones. The point construction is interesting too... who would believe that there were such things as concrete interlaced points? Note that the sleepers that require special chairs are all laid on timber sleepers, and that the economy concretes are far shorter than the timber ones. The rail in the points is very worn, there is a noticeable step in the rail where it forms the check-rail to the crossing (you can see it easier on the flicker photo when you zoom in), and the one in the background looks like it is probably the same. My guess is that these sleepers are ex-MOD, bought secondhand, but interestingly there is a pile of timber sleepers on the right of the photo, had the whole line been re-laid with concretes recently, or was track lifting taking place then? Andy G

Having played around a bit with early colour light heads the doors open out at least 180*, and generally more. I'm sure my MetroVick -GRS 'Hernia'** head has a door that goes much further than 180*. I friend has a couple of early heads with 'pig's ears' on them, and again I'm sure they open further than 180*, so access to change the LAMPs (Remember bulbs grow, lamps glow), wouldn't be that difficult. And I'm guessing that the width of the platform is probably wider than it looks. Andy G ** so called as it weights so bleeding much, its cast iron!

Have you tried Scale link? They seem to have some Markits bits that are in stock that no-one else has. Andy G

I remember being on duty for a wiring degradation inspection here. The bloke was saying how poor the wiring looked, and then clambered behind the frame after I had pulled off (frame but with colour lights) and then started to pull the loom about very roughly. I was surprised that the signals didn't go back! He said that the wiring insulation issue has become more of an issue on installations from the early 80's onwards, as BR suddenly wanted to know what the contractors were specifying for there wire. They then complained that it wasn't the spec that BR had wanted, so they all changed over to the BR wire, and that has been proven to not last very well.... Andy G

Its not uncommon here either.... <cough> Stadler 'Basils' units for GA <cough> Andy G

see https://www.railcar.co.uk/type/class-105/operations-batch-three about the batch three Cravens sets.... Andy G

Which bit of the LMS does the book cover? Does it cover the Highland area at all please? Andy G

No wonder the M&GN was closed... double manning signalboxes! I just wish we still had the front veranda here, it would be a good vantage point. Andy G

Axle now cut through and removed, not having much luck in shifting the grub screw, looks like it might actually be glued in... grrr. Any thoughts on the Markits crank bushes? Ta Andy G

I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me please? I'm resurrecting an old K's outside framed Kirtley 0-6-0, that has serious outside crank issues. I've managed to purchase a set of Markits deluxe outside cranks, which come with tiny (14BA?) set screws, which screw into the crank-pin holes on the outside cranks. I'm guessing that they fit in the rear of the crank, so that the head is hidden. There is a set of bushes, which look like they are threaded (I think?) and I'm guessing that these should screw onto the set screws to hold the rods in place, but I cannot get them to start on the thread at all... Sadly while recovering the remains of the cranks off the extended romford axles, the one with the drive gear on snapped its extended thread. Not much of an issue, but the problem is that the gear wheel grub screw has a knackered head, so its now locked on the duff axle, unable to be moved, and holding the axle in the frames. I can get a hacksaw in between the gear and frames, so I can cut the axle off, but I'm not sure how I'm going to recover the gear. Any ideas please? Its interesting to see that the wheelbase of the frames seems to be about right, but the horns on the w/metal body seems not to match the wheelbase of the frames... Odd! The axles just about clear, so it won't effect running, but will possibly look a bit odd with the cranks on. TIA Andy G

Its just a shame I can't find the original GPO drawings for the buildings at the minute... I know I had the A type one, but just can't find it! The bits for the exchange are looking really impressive! I love the corners. Andy G

And to stress DO NOT use normal WD40 for the clean up job! That will destroy the insulation on the coils and sleepers. Keep WD40 for squirting into the cylinders of a neighbours motor bike when they aren't looking.... A fibreglass pencil is a good tool for cleaning up contacts, even coarse printer paper does a good job at cleaning them too! For the wire in tube signal controls, I would get some thin oil and put a few drips (off the end of a bit of .5mm wire) down each tube by the signal post. This will then run down the tube and round to the lever. The levers themselves will probably free up with a couple of drips of oil on the pivots, and the use of the fibreglass pencil on the sliding bar to remove any surface rust. Again, clean the screw tops for the point controls with the fibreglass pencil, and you can then test the motors (after manually making sure that they are free) using a 9v battery via the studs. Its nice to see proper lacing of the wiring under the boards as well! Of course if the H&M motors don't work, you can remove them and operate the points with wire in tube too. Take it slowly and it will start to make sense, but remember to take notes! Andy G

Scalelink have point levers as well, and show GEM ones as in stock: https://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Universal-Hand-operated-Point-Levers---PRE--OWNED-p1.html (there is also a second page with other types on it too) Andy G Edit: Could you get the backscenes scanned? That way they could be cleaned up digitally... Edit again: I don't think they are actually GEM point levers, as the moving bit seems to be at right angle to the lever, not in line with it like the GEM ones....

I can't imagine that the GEM point levers will fall apart, they are fairly robust, and are still available, so if one does die, you can change it out. They appear to be used for the signals as well as the points, which seems quite sensible. It looks like the wiring goes to the simple on-off lever frame, and having had one of these little frames in the past, I seem to remember that they are fairly robust, but that occasionally the contacts bend, so that the lever doesn't press the moving contact down far enough. The fixed contact is visible if you turn the frame over, and you can usual cure the issue by a little bit of packing for that bottom contact against the base board. I agree with the don't strip it of wires approach (especially as I know you don't like soldering), as I'm guessing that it might well surprise you and burst into life. The thing to look at is how the points are wired. I fear you are going to have to provide lots of photos for us to help you! I quite like the back scene, its of its time, and quite atmospheric, if only it wasn't so dirty! Andy G

Me too... And sadly he lived up to his name..... Train + level crossing gate = Lots of matchsticks + no job. Andy G

As requested, here are the missing files for the temporary houses: G3055 Uni-Serco.pdf G3056 USA type.pdf G3057 Phoenix Type.pdf G3058 Miller Type.pdf G3059 Tarran Type.pdf G3060 Arcon Type.pdf G3061 Spooner Type.pdf G3062 Universal Type.pdf G3063 Orlit Type.pdf G3064 Aluminium (Airon) Type.pdf G3065 Airey Type.pdf Remember they are Crown Copyright, and are here for education purposes! Andy G

The first image isn't an A, its a bit like a B, but not quite! Probably a mod to the design to suit the site. The second image is a rendered A type, as is the 3rd image (but with a different design roof!). The remaining images are B types. Sadly the official drawing for the early A types (with the timber windows, no longer exists, but the one for the later type with Crittal Z windows does... I'm not sure the B type drawing exists still, I'll have to do some digging. But the larger B1 type certainly does. Both types are also available as timber built versions.. PM me, and I'll see what I can do for you! Andy G

Your telephone exchange buildings are quite easy... The pitched roof one is an A type building, that probably housed a UAX5 or a UAX12. The hipped building is a B type and would have been built for the replacement exchange, probably a UAX13 (although it could have been a UAX6). Your later colour photo of the exchange shows that the B type has been extended over the footprint of the A type building, in this case at least twice, if not three times! I'm guess the original B type is actually the 1/4 that is behind the tree, and its actually been extended forward and backwards, and lost the hipped roof in the process. Andy G

Ah, another victim of the crash... I'll upload them all again by the end of the week. Andy G

If it is emulsion, then if you wet it you will probably find that it will come off quite easily. I'm stripping paint off old MK light fittings and sockets (why don't people undo the screws and pull the faceplates forward before they paint?) at the minute, and thats the way I do it. If its oil paint, nitromors is applied.. Andy G

I'd put R D Stephen in the list too. Working in the 1920's with what must have been huge cameras, his photos are a great resource for Scottish modellers of that era. Andy G