Dixie Dean

I'm looking at buying a rake, which Hornby coaches would I need to make a complete set? 

Can anyone tell me what coach set(s) did the Navy/Gold GNER liveried Class 89 work with?  Does anyone have an actual formation?

Waiting patiently 😌 

Anything to tell us yet guys?  Would love to get my hands on one!!

I presume that you're OK with changing CVs and that doing so doesn't invalidate the warranty?

Well, I think I for one must say that this is a very welcome and very generous position to take.   I for one have a number of both motorised and non-motorised models, worth probably several thousands of pounds, many of which don't run much at the moment as I am still in the process of building my own and a club layout suitable to run them on.

So, a big thank you to the team at Accurascale for this!  

Would anyone know what is the colour (code/make if known) of the red stripe on the Hornby GNER Eurostars (the one immediately beneath the windows on which the name GNER is carried?  I'd like to use the same colour as on the other Hornby coaches so that the set looks matching, even if Hornby used the wrong colour on the Eurostars.

6 minutes ago, markw said:

There are no differences between powered and dummy cars, so you can just unclip the non powered bogie and clip the powered bogie  in its place, you can even fit two powered bogies into a single power car without modification.

Cheers Mark, that's very useful.  What's your thoughts regarding the first or second options?  I probably have sufficient old LokSound chips to convert both ends if required.  I presume I might be pushing my luck to run two bogies from one chip (in which case I would get a cheap decoder for the lights at the other end)?

Hi everyone.  Have been cutting and shutting some sets to make intermediate cars.   I've made 4, which will be OK for the time being.   Now need to find some of the Jacobs type bogie connecting pieces, the ones that push into the end of one coach and clip onto the upright in the Jacobs type bogie.  See attachment.  Alternatively is there anyone on here who does 3D printing who could make me some.

Also I need to convert one dummy car to power.  I have an old white power car that I could use for the motor.  I will also convert to DCC sound.  I have at least one chip somewhere but need to convert an older class 92 chip to Eurostar (got Accurascale 92s now - Hornbys no longer required).

Anyone know if putting the motor in a dummy car is pretty straightforward?

On 13/07/2023 at 16:42, Mike_Walker said:

And in any case, a 93 is a very different looking animal to a 68/88, I doubt if there's much in common between them.

I understand that the front will be slightly different due to the design bei g owned by DRS, but most of the loco "under the bonnet" will be very similar except with regards to the diesel engine (slightly larger) and the batteries.

Having seen what happened to Russia as a result of its attack on Ukraine got me wondering what chaos may be caused to UK originated model manufacturing if China actually attacks Taiwan.  Is it time that UK manufacturers began to consider moving manufacturing to other countries, despite all that that will entail?

6 hours ago, Accurascale Fran said:

 

Hi Dixie,

 

Can confirm it is not a Class 37 from us. Sorry!

 

Cheers!

 

Fran 

Don't worry, it turns out to be a free Chromebook I got for buying a new phone!  Still looking forward to me 37 though

1 minute ago, Phil Bullock said:

Just be sure it isn’t a phishing scam… 

It was just a notification that they have been asked to collect a parcel.  Nothing to click, but yours is good advice generally.  Can't think of anything else I have outstanding at the moment.

I've just received a tracking notification from DHL which for me usually means Accurascale are sending out a parcel.  The only thing I have outstanding at the moment is the 37 which I wasn't expecting for a few weeks.

16 hours ago, McC said:

 

The 66 Project manager is at Glasgow but we’ll review and come back with what’s possible early next week. 

That is very much appreciated

Any chance of an upgrade pack for those with Hatton's versions on the basis that if you don't ask you wont get

On 09/01/2023 at 11:32, MRDBLUE17 said:

The bodyshell unclips easily (I did manage to ping a grill off doing this) these are very fine etched parts and the factory did a good job carefully putting these on with tiny dabs of glue. I can see how these will come off through handling and are easy to fit back with a very tiny spot of glue on a pin

2 of my grills have also pooped off.  What glue should I use to refit them?  Also I can't see where the clips are too unlock the pantographs, and unfortunately I've knocked both pantographs off of one of my 92s.  Anyone know how to to put them back?

It appears that the full size locomotives are now under construction.

2 hours ago, McC said:

At the moment, the platform we use for deposits and installments doesn’t accept PayPal but we are lobbying for same. 

Will I be safe to wait for that facility to come on line before I pay my deposit?

Is there a way to pay the deposit via PayPal balance?

On 15/03/2022 at 13:09, 97406 said:

Regarding Brecknell Willis pantographs, Gaugemaster have some of the new Heljan ones as spares on order.

Are these BW HS pantographs?  If so, how much are they please?

32 minutes ago, Accurascale Fran said:

Hi everyone,

 

We have begun sending out the invoices in advance notice of the Caledonian Mark 5s. Please note that there 60 days to pay, so it's giving you plenty of notice and a couple of pay days in between now and delivery. 

 

Cheers!

 

Fran 

Have the gone up slightly in price since they were announced?

24 minutes ago, RozM said:

Anybody else received an invoice for their Aberdeen Sleepers? 

Yes I have

On 06/05/2022 at 23:54, NIK said:

 

Unscrew lid of black box command station.

Push down on daughter board that plugs into big circuit board underneath.

Put lid back on.

Power up and check Pro Cab display.

Power down and screw lid back on.

Solved ... the above was nearly correct.  I also removed the upper board completely (by undoing the screws holding in the serial port connector and pulling off the tie holding the rear of the upper board to the lower board) and re-seated the upper board into the connector to the lower board and .... it worked correctly again!

Thanks everyone for your input - got there in the end

All replies very much appreciated!!

Mine doesn't appear to have a plug in board.  The upper board is physically bolted to the lower board.

I did try making sure everything was connected properly, but unfortunately, it was just the same on re-assembly.  Does anyone have any other thoughts?