Atso

The Farish B1 seems to use a pin very similar to the pin used to connected the V2 loco and tender via the pony truck. I think that the two may be compatible just a question if the wheel base is right...

To answer you question about the metal used on older Farish loco bodies, I think (don't quote me here) that it is Zamak but don't ask me where I got this information as I can't remember!

The minitrix A3 isn't that accurate being stretched to fit the German 4-6-2 chassis. Also the cab isn't right... Is it better than the Farish A3? Well the boiler isn't hughly oversized and the detail is crisper... In conclusion to this rambling hurry up someone and produce an up to date version quick!

Hi interesting bits here.

I've got a B17 'chassis' as well - just deciding if I'm going to make a streamliner out of it or one for the original B17's with GER tender.

Interesting to hear your thoughts about the V2. I think that a B1 would provide better wheels and drive than the V2 chassis but what is wrong with the V2 body? The Farish V2 uses a plastic body for the loco which could have the boiler skirts removed by careful drilling and filing. The minitrix A3 suffers from having a boiler skirt as well and the rear pony is nothing like an A3's!

Personally I would use a B1 for the tender drive and wheels, the V1 for the loco body and valve gear and the Dapol B17 for the tender top! I think that would produce the ultimate V2 in N gauge!

Hi Matt,

Looking good! Like you I use Halfords paints, their VW Brilliant Organge makes a great base coat for repainting Dapol's Gresley's in teak!

Keep up the good work.

Steve

Hey missy,

Nice to see you again this year. Elvis really does look the business - if only I could build models to the same standards you do!

Hi Chris,

Good stuff with the D16 mate! Have you thought about using an old Patriot tender drive and a spare B12 tender top for a drive unit? I seem to remember reading that this worked quite well for someone else.

Good luck and look forward to seeing this as it progresses.

Cheers, Steve

Hi there,

I'm not 100% sure but your J11's tender looks like a GNR unequal wheelbase tender rather than a GCR one. As far as I'm aware Robinson tenders wheels were equally spaced and had no cut out at the front of the tender body.

Hope this helps

Steve

Hi Missy, very effective sacks there and the goods shed doesn't look too bad either!!! It was really nice to meet you at St. Albans the other week and I must say that, while your models look exceptional in the pictures you post they really don't do your models justice when I got to see some of them in the flesh! B)

On a side note, I'm I right in thinking that you did some work using a Craft Robo cutter a while back? If so how did it go and do you still have the machine?

I'd certainly be interested if it could be dropped down slightly on the chassis (same thing as V2 as the V2 cylinders and body sit too high on the chassis) and done in a metal for extra adhesion weight....

Al, I've built it to fit the V2 chassis and I'm sure that you could lower it the same way as you've lowered you're V2s. Unfortunately if I lower the body any further I would need to have the chassis block protruding out of the boiler - not very prototypical. The chassis would need some modest filing at the front end to accept the body anyway to achieve a perfect fit.

Would I consider marketing this as a kit? Having thought about it - it would really depend on the level of interest here. Anyone interested please let me know...

Hi guys. Jo SLS is Shapeways Strong White and Flexible material. SLA is a laser cured resin which costs around ten times the cost of white detail. So far the body seems to be far far smoother than anything I've ordered from Shapeways and the other tender body has been produced to assess if the finish justifies the costs involved - so far looking good.

Hi guys and thanks for the comments. As for the CAD package, I'm using Alibre Design. I initially got this as a free demo online and later upgraded to the full standard version when it was on offer for $99. I've spent the last year or so teaching myself how to use the software and gotten the occasional bits printed as test subjects. I'm now confident with most of the features that the software offers.

EWSJO I've tried blender but didn't get on with it, much prefer Alibre (just personal preference) good luck and I hope to see some of your models in the near future.

Bundeena, most rapid prototyping machines build up the models layer by layer and therefore the produced model will have a stepped effect normally between 0.2 and 0.5mm in height. This needs to be removed by careful priming and rubbing down. The trick here is not to remove detail in the process. I've got the K3 being produced in two materials, one in stainless steel and one using an SLA machine in resin. SLA is the process that many of the RTR manufactures use to produce the initial test models for evaluation before proceeding to the production stages. Intrestingly the SLA model is costing me more than the steel model (you're looking at over ??100 for one of these models). On the up side the SLA model is being printed to a far finer resolution than the steel model at 0.05mm against 0.2mm. Both sound very fine but once you've painted them in primer the stepping effect really does stand out.

As for ensuring that the chassis fits under the body no 3D scanning here (I can't afford it!) so lots of carefull measurements of the chassis with my calipers and fingers crossed that I got the measurements right!

I've had confirmation that I should have the SLA model either tomorrow or by Wednesday so I'll post some pictures within the next few days...

Hi Alan,

The Gresley looks great! What are you doing about the bogies though?