Well looks can be deceiving. Actually quite a lot of work has happened on the 45xx over the past week or so but the overall appearance is not hugely changed. Let me put it another way... here is how it looked a couple of days ago...
When I stopped work on this project I really wasn't happy with the way it was running. The worst issues had been solved but it still had pretty poor slow running and a nasty tendency to stall. All in all not a candidate for having its cylinders fitted or being sent to the paint shop.
I was chatting with John Greenwood at Warley and the 45xx was one of the things we talked about. John suggested that the Nigel Lawton 8mm motor was a better option for slow running than the 10mm one. This surprised me. On getting back from the show I started by doing some sums and decided that the loco was already geared so that it should have better slow running than my Manor, but the practice did not match the theory.
Job number one therefore was to actually get around to making the third of the three motor mounts that I'd originally intended. This was a pretty quick job and with the 8mm motor installed the loco was given a quick test and I was pleasantly surprised to find that it could now put in a much better slow running performance.
The stalling issue was still there but now I had succeeded with one problem it seemed worth spending some effort on the other one. John also suggested top-acting wiper pickups. These were pretty easy to do, so I thought I hadn't much to lose by trying them. I tried them but couldn't see much improvement in the stalling issue.
The obvious next step was Simpson Springing, but this was not going to be a small task. Anyway, the soldering iron was applied to the muffs and the whole chassis stripped down. The bearings were opened out to 1.6mm. The springs were made in the prescribed manner from some salvaged 'N' gauge coupling springs (does anyone else have a hard time getting these to straighten out?) and soldered to the insides of the frames. Of course the frames were already painted, so I scraped some patches back to bare metal, tinned these and the springs and soldered the two together. It's not pretty but it seems to have done the job.
And so to reassembly... First I fitted the outer two driving axles using the quartering jig and checked that the chassis rolled freely. It didn't. It was binding with the cranks in the 45 degree position. To me this said that there was a quartering issue and on checking visually that seemed to be the case. I managed to shift the quartering on one axle and the chassis then rolled freely with the rods in place. Quite how this can happen when using the quartering jig I have no idea.
Next I fitted the centre axle and tried it rolling without the rods. The centre axle didn't rotate. Hmm... either the axle holes are not in a straight line or the wheels aren't all the same size. Now I should probably suspect the axle holes but I was pretty confident about the thoroughness of my original assembly checks. I did another test using a ruler to roll along the top of the driving wheels and once again the centre axle didn't rotate. Even using two rulers (one on top and one underneath) the centre axle still didn't want to play. I couldn't find convincing evidence of a variation in size using the vernier calipers but using a micrometer and taking lots of measurements (the coning makes it hard to be sure that any one measurement is right), I decided that the centre wheels were around 0.3525 inches but most of the others were around 0.354 inches (guess whether my mike is imperial or metric).
Scrap another set of muffs - just the outer axles though. I then mounted each wheel in turn in the mini drill and used 320 grit wet or dry to reduce the size. It took quite a while to do this but I'd rather take extra time than risk removing too much metal. Once the wheels were all a consistent size I repeated the ruler test and found that all three axles rotated nicely. The wheels were then cleaned up using progressively finer grades of paper followed by metal polish before yet another reassembly.
Here's the rebuilt chassis.
That's about it for now. An initial test as an 0-6-0 proved that the stalling issue was improved but not entirely eliminated. Re-fitting the pony wheels improved matters further. I still have some work to do to reset the pony wheel springs - these have all been either damaged or removed during the chassis rebuild.
All in all a lot of work to get more or less right back to where I started but I now have a loco that inspires some confidence that it might actually be a decent performer when asked to do some real work.
EDIT: a couple more photos of the pony truck springs for Jerry
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