johnb

Looks really neat, sort of job I wish that I'd done. Excellent job, love it.

MTK used to do a kit, but no doubt that would fetch silly money on Ebay. I expect you know that the Buckingham Branch pair had slightly different window spacings. I built the Research one from the MTK kit and still have it (it's not for sale!). It went together sort of reasonably but is nowhere near what I would class as good! I cheated with the chassis, using a Hornby 110 powercar as a basis, so it's less than correct in that respect.

My experience is mainly with non-sound chips, but have run some sound locos without any issues. I use an NCE PowerCab and a variety of decoders TCS, Zimo, Lenz, Digitrax in the main. Some DCC manufacturer installed locos Atlas and Bachmann and all work fine for me. As KE11 says above my choice depends on 21pin, 8pin, number of functions, size and price. I avoid the cheaper ones, having had some issues some years back with bulk buys. Not sure what current prices are, but a couple of years back I usually paid in the region of £20/£25 as I only really need 4function decoders and the layout is simple. I would stress that's what suits me! Others will doubtless differ

For me it's the Virginian, a lovely selection of hefty steamers, brute force elecrics and colourful diesels. Only a smallish railroad specialising in coal haulage. Fell for it when I was given a book on it some years back. Fascinating stuff.

It's the way I do it myself DCC to the track and analogue to Tortoise point motors without issues. I use the auxiliary contacts on the Tortoise to switch the frogs. Just need to be careful that the DCC and analogue systems do not make contact. The Tortoise are of course stall motors so the analogue wiring is always live. I'm just careful with routing the wires and if necessary use heat shrink insulation if necessary. The layout has done a number of exhibitions without problems arising from transportation knocks.

You have found the problem! Yes that's a cardan shaft which means that one bogie is not connected to the motor and therefore wheels not turning, I'm afraid that means more dismantling. You will need the service sheets as Johnster suggests. The shots of the bogies just shows the gear block driving the wheels/axles. The single motor will be central, under the circuit board with a cardan shaft driving each bogie. One has dropped out. They are relatively simple to get back As I said I am not familiar with the HJ23 so cannot advise further on exactly how to proceed, but usually this means loosening the bogie and easing the shaft back in being careful that the small pins on the ends slot easily into position.

Seems to me that one bogie is not powered, possibly because the cardan shaft between motor and one bogie has come adrift. Are all wheels spinning when powered? Had this on one Heljan loco and it needed opening up to sort. Wasn't a problem to sort but it will require opeing up Sorry but I'm not familiar with the HJ23 so cannot help with dismantling advice. If you haven't got the instructions they may be available on the HJ webpage or indeed on here.

I know almost (well nothing) about NER coaches and of that vintage but the leading photo strikes me as a vintage 'kitbash'. Maybe after a mishap that damaged both ends and the 'repair' used the style of the current works builds.

I've used Powercabs for several years incl on the exhibition circuit and have had little problem with them. I like them. A couple of minor issues which I resolved myself with some advice from one of the specialist suppliers. They suit me and I have no plans to change, As for switching between layouts I put the connection circuit board into a small plastic box, that way there is no element fixed to the layout, just a pair of cables from the box ending in banana plugs which plug into the females on each layout. Just held on with velcro strips. So the only extra is a pair of sockets on each layout. The auxiliary handset is useful I actually have an older version the Cab04, but have used the Cab06 and it is fine.

Things to consider:- Wire broken under the insulation? Longish run with thin wiring? Resolder the wiring connections? Just some ideas off-the-cuff

I run a pair of Bachmann 2EPBs together with Kadee #18s and work fine, I'm using Peco Med radius points. As RFS says best is trial and error to see what suits your particular situation.

If the manufacturer provides a sleeve then I feel free to fit it if I feel it it needed, particularly if other metal is around. If they say keep it uncovered then I ensure that it is uncovered. It really all depends on the heat dissipation from a particular decoder and that will be the manufacturers decision to sleeve or not at the design/test stages. There are so many decoders that it is not possible to generalise. Some come with sealed sleeving prefitted anyway. I would follow the advice given for a particular decoder.

Maybe copper tube or plastic water/drain tube or plastic elec conduit from a DIY store? Tricky to judge size from a photo, but possibly something of 22mm diameter. OK mean some sreious scratch building, but should look good with some work.

I've a number of Bachmann DEMUs and EMUs and all run very smoothly.

Same method was used at LT's Pinner station in the '50s as kid often watched the staff enthuiastically slopping whitewash around.

It's a saw it off job I'm afraid. I have done it but it does take care to get a clean and accurate cut. Wasn't too successful as I recall it was some time ago, but Milliput saved the day!

Yes I simply unclipped the span(s) that crossed the joint, generally they were the longer ones so were pretty flexible. Don't want to discourage you but I've had two portable layouts that had OHLE. I found that the the wires and masts were susceptable to damage, The regular dismantling and rebuilding did not help. I found that the alignment could shift causing dewirement and on one occasion a panto dewired and was badly twisted. Having said all that I have seen at shows a number of OHLE layouts and they always seem to work well and look very good.

Chips can be tweaked, but in my case I used identical chips in identical EMUs (I think EU621s). To do that level of tweaking you would really need a SPROG which presents the speed table graphically and is easily adjusted. First off if possible is to run them on DC and see how they are speed matched, if they are pretty much the same then if the same chip is used in both then it is much easier. Like you I've got too many of the things, I did get a 2HIL, but have yet to lash out on a 2HAP! Having said that I have 2 4TCs!! I've an MLV and a 4 CEP but don't run them together, the layout is too short. John

I regularly run two OO Bachman 2EPB emus together without actually consisting, but both have the same DCC id. They are well matched without having to tweak CVs. One is actually reversed to the other, using just the usual CV29 twiddle which is well documented elsewhere. I use an NCE Powercab which during the chip setup process actually asks if you want it normal or reversed and does the CV29 twiddling for you!

Berkhamsted on the WCML, the castle (ruined) is just across the road from the rear entrance.

I've got an insulfrog code 100 double slip in the station throat of my end to end exhibition (remember them?) layout that has been no trouble. The key thing is to ensure that it is absolutely flat on the underlay with no twist, I found that out the hard way years ago. It's survived a fair number of shows with an intensive service of mainly EMUs with some parcels stock shunting over it. Hope that helps

PM sent

If it is all connected correctly as in your photos then the red LED should be alight. As the display is lit then power is getting through to the Powercab. In my experience the lack of a red light has been caused by either a faulty cable/plug or a dodgy socket, I've had one of each over some 8-10 years of use including some intensive exhibition use. So in my experience rare Have you tried wiggling the cable and the plugs in the sockets, are there any kinks in the cable, the wires inside are small and don't like being kinked.

Have a look at the Zimo range of chips, reasonably priced, pretty small and with good range of adjustable CVs.

Which decoder are you using? Some have a limited number of adjustable CVs.