johnb

128 I find it gives smoother control

Have you tried a new cable? I've had an issue with one of the cores breaking, also check the sockets at both ends, sometimes the pins inside get twisted and don't make contact with the plugs. Might be worth having a word with Coastal DCC, very helpful outfit (no connection with them) They sorted one for me that had a dodgy socket on the controller. John

Andy, I am happy with the site, yes it does have ups and downs in speed. If it's very sluggish I log out and come back a few minutes later when it's usually sorted itself out. Wonder if it's a particular section of the code that can get bottle necked. Had that when I was testing software way back when. Took a fair bit of sorting out too. All the best in sorting this. John

It's patchy for me, sometimes it hangs, and I end up getting an error message when logging on. Then like now it rockets along. Not an easy thing to find.

NCE Powercab? Find mine very good for my small OO/HO layouts at shows.

Suggest that you discuss with the bank whatever you do decide to do. If it's a flaw in their system it could hit important thing like your paycheck!!!

That's exactly how I would wire it up. Give it it's own switched section by using insulated joiners on every rail and feed to the outside rails only. Just treat it as a very short section switched as exactly you would for any other section. It's the simple and reliable way for DC as indeed it is for DCC. I have done just that on my DCC layout admittedly without the switch.

Patchy here today in the west end of Herts, sometimes it's slow, other times it click and you're there! No pattern that I can identify as to times. Using the back button is perhaps the most noticeable for delays. Most of my usual websites are running as usual.

I can just imagine the Lille Controller having hysterics when that registered. Very intelligent reporting though particularly at the speed he was probably travelling

It's been patchy for me, sometimes it's reacting properly and then hangs unexpectedly, particularly when using the back button. I'd just put it down to local net traffic, been going on for a couple of days, as a few other sites are reacting similarly. Johnb

Contact Andy Y he should be able to assist

I would simply pin and glue some 9mm ply along the outside of the base boards to give you the extra depth. They would be 4 1/2" deep plus the thickness of the baseboard top to give you the necessary depth. The ends would depend on how the boards are joined. It does depend also on the size of the boards.. The ply on its own should be sufficiently rigid, I can see no need to add a extra run of 3 x 1 under the existing framing.

I suspect that given it was wartime they used whatever colour was to hand as long as it was 'sort of ' military green

On my small 3rd rail exhibition layout, I use DCC for control of the track and Tortoise motor (11 in total) on 12v DC from switches. The two power supplies are completely independent. I've not had any issues. The layout will be at the Royston club show on 16th November, if you are around I'll be happy to chat. John

I assume that you are dealing with a USA General Electric built model B23/8, a four axle locomotive. The usual way these days for US locos is that the short hood (non radiator) end is the front, BUT some railroads have exceptions, what railroad is the model? Also often on the frame is the letter 'F' this indicates the designated front, it's often quite small, so look carefully. HTH John

The OP seems to indicate that the voltage drop is being measured at a panel, not the Powercab itself, so what is between the P'cab and the panel? Could it be a 'dry' solder joint, poor connection in the RJ12 connections, I've had that one where the 'fingers' in one of the female sockets were dodgy. Maybe the cable has partly broken core, is there a kink in the cable, or a poor connection within the RJ12 plugs? Just issues that I have come across over the years.

I have a DCC controlled layout with DC operated points using Tortoise motors from a separate 12vDC supply. There is no connection between the two. The frog switching uses the contacts on the motors which are totally separate from the motor control connections. John

How old is the loco and how much work does it do? What about checking all the bearings on gears and motor for gunging up, if it is grease lubricated then that can become very sticky. So it's a strip down clean off all the gear bearings and relube with a fine lube.

Are you a regular monthly reader, if so it is worth taking out a direct subscription on an annual basis with Kalmbach the publisher. I no longer subscribe to MR but still have a subscription to Trains their prototype magazine. I've only ever had one go missing in well over ten years. I emailed them and got a replacement copy in a couple of weeks or so. Unfortunately I do not know of a UK source for individual copies. It was the unreliability of finding copies in my nearby WHS shops that decided me to use the subscription route.

Tried volunteering on one many years ago, never again thank you very much! No names no pack drill, however, internal politics ran rampant, departmental vicious slagging off other departments, newcomers treated like dirt, fast enough to call you in at short notice though! Cliques all over, make an error because no one ever bothered to tell you the right way and major uproar, no excuse accepted. Wonder it ever survived but it did. OK so maybe my face just didn't fit, I tried hard for a year but quit in the end. I wasn't going to try again. Found other things to do to spend my restricted availability on. I do like preserved lines and admire the work that goes on, but volunteer? Not likely.

Unfortunately Minnie Bridge has been withdrawn from this event for personal reasons.

My layout is DCC for loco control, but after much thinking I decided to use analogue control for the points . The layout is only small 13ft x 1ft and I have 10 point motors. There are three crossovers (using 6 of the motors) and I decided to use a small switch panel hidden in a low relief building. This 7 switch panel controls Tortoise motors driven from a 12vDC regulated power supply. I saw no advantage for me in going to anything more complex. The Tortoise motors have proved reliable.

FWIW I run a pair of Bachmann 2EPBs fitted with TCS chips and they run well together without any DCC chip twiddling

I rather suspect finances are involved. A two day show usually involves o/night accomodation for some attendees, traders don't like the extra expense either and I very much doubt that the attendance will double to cover the extra day's expenses anyway. . Been there, done the calculations and it just doesn't add up. Given todays costs there just aren't the margins to justify the risks. Likewise I expect the Wycrail organisers have come to the same conclusions I stress that I am not a member of Beaconsfield club and have absolutely no knowledge of their costings.

1. Are you sure that you are getting an accurate 12v? 2. Have you tried wiring them in series pairs. Although from what you say about them on a 9v battery that may be too dim. 3. Might be a bit of trial and error on getting the right resistor as if they are too dim on 9v it will be a bit of a fine judgement. As they haven't blown yet on 12v then that suggests that there is a resistor in there somewhere or that the LEDs on each lamp are wired in pairs as individual LEDs usually run on a max of 5v