nigelb

Evening folks sorry for the delay in posting One of my problems was getting the solebar overlays fixed, partly due to using gas soldering iron and partly how to clamp it . Hence i decided to fit then while the under-frame was in the flat so to speak I tinned both mating parts with my new 100 watt electric iron ( 14 pounds from Maplin whoop whoop ) usual disclamer then pinned both parts together with drawing pins to a piece of ply to hold them flat and in place and ran the gas iron over them result DONE Tomorrows task will be to clean up and tin the indents for the central W irons and the foot board brackets Sorry about the poor pics i will have to get my SLR out with the macro lens

Cheers Shez I had forgotten just a quick one how did you fix the two outer W irons ?

Job for tonight was the pressing out of 122 half etched rivets in the W irons, the top foot board and the solebar overlays. I just remembered that the outside W irons do not need the top 7 rivets pressing as they are behind the solebar I had thought to use an old model drill press as a riveting tool to give me consistency but in the end i found an old school compass with the point filed down just a touch and held in one hand gave good results when pressed on a piece of 3 mm ply Cannot see the rivets but they are there. and just worked out the photo was from a scale 100 feel away so you should Not see the rivets tomorrow is the attaching of the solebars and center W irons I have a cunning plan to do these

Rght as i am going to be seeing Lancaster Green Ayre in the flesh at Ally Pally and I have done enough playing with the part brake 3rd etches to feel confident enough to go for a real coach. Tonight's plan was to identify and separate / clean up the chassis parts. I just need to dig out my home made gas cylinders ,The short foot step supports and Westinghouse reservoirs, the rest is done as per the pic below. Tomorrow night will be simpler push through the rivets This will be a stage by stage with any notes on fiddly bits and how i over come them Tip one to remove the little pips left from when you remove the etches from the runners a small whetstone is very usefull

Damm I suppose I better got on with mine now

the new toys have arrived. 1. the bench drill 15 inched high with electronic speed control plus a triple pully system seems to be solid 48 pounds from china 2 the 2 axis milling table needs to be tweaked a bit but should be ok 0.2 mm graduations on the hand wheels 28 pounds from china only problem so far is the slots on the table do not quite line up with the ones on the drill base so a little filling was in order more info to come as it gets used

Treated myself to George Dents book Building Coaches a complete guide for railway modelers so busy reading up and gaining lots of ideas

With all the information that is accumulating i see a possible booklet or short document possibly getting put together

my new bottle ( 1st bottle LOL) of phosphoric flux arrived this morning from hobby holidays (very satisfied customer) this means all i need now is a bigger soldering iron possibly orrr my gas soldering torch might work better ( being into H&S i have done a Coshh assessment and already have a fan for forced ventilation plus a suitable face mask) Questions for the experts will whitemetal solder work with phosphoric flux

just spent a very happy hour working on the break third body . yes i know there is a lill whoops on the length so i have decided to solder the 2 ends to the 2 sides ala plastic wagon kit , and shorted the floor its also got a few half etches that are full etches lol I have also been playing with different temp solders with much hilarity note to self use solver solder before white metal and things will stay put also decided i need a bigger soldering iron also had a go at the guards ducket the reject etches are missing the overlays so i have tried some thin brass shim and it works just need to add the beading this is why i got the trial etches so i can play without thinking OMG i have ruined it lol I know there are more people out there who have bought these coaches so come on show and tell

Hi Ian really usefull stuff there one question the drawing of the underframe is that looking down from above of up from below ?? this would change the location of the gas cylinder Nigel

3 horseshoes at East Worldham is a nice pub

Ian that's fantastic looks like i got my efforts about right and the pic of the centre W irens will help get the brackets right as well

not the best of pics but this is my attempt at the gas cylinders and brackets measurements taken from the sewel dwgs

just invested in the Piranah 300 hold n fold so with luck and a fair wind i should be back on the track of the brake third in a couple of weeksbut beore then i will work on gettinf the sides sorted

there would be a shape for the squadron A squadron was an equilateral triangle then Digits numbers 0 would be squadron HQ 1 would be the 1st troop 2 the second the second number is the number in the troop 1 troop IC 2 troop 2IC so triangle 0A would be A squadron commander triangle 22B would be A squadron 2nd troop Troop sergeant . if they are vehicles being moved as part of a training exercise then you would not split up different squadrons / troops unless the vehicles are being delivered from stores depot then they will not have a call sign marked just a registration number i was in A squadron fitter section (reme) and my Sampson was Triangle 13B hope this helps and makes sense

Hi Ian looking good chap just a couple of lil bits the track pads on the CVRT are rubber and will appear as black the inside of the drive sprockets would be silver ( the paint wore of after about 10 foot of travel. unless they are brand new they would have the vehicle call sign painted ( usually in yellow) on the side and the rear of the turret http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/modern/images/cvrt%20001.jpg regards Nigel

Cheers Jamie yes you hit the nail on the head I am used to 2 mm and 00 size bits these 7mm bits is huge lol. its good that I got the trial etches to play with I will try using my lil gas iron brom behind the solebar just heating the underframe up I feel some sort of jig to have the tinned solebar on the board with the floor pan held in place vertically to keep them in close contact the step supports I got some cast ones that are very good will take some pics when I try

have hit the buffers trying to solder the sole bar to the under frame i get there but when i start to add the foot step supports the W irons the springs the axle boxes the footsteps thing come un soldered need to go back to the original plat kit and practice lol

First attempts at getting the colour the 1st pic has a red oxide base coat the right half then had 2 coats of royal blue then when dry overal one coat of ford burgundy the second pic has a base coat of grey primer and the left site has the blue undercoats TBH the red undercoat and red straight on top had the best appearance even with just the one coat also been playing with the chassis i have invested in some 62C NBR Brake van running board brackets they are lovely little castings and only need a slight fetttle to fit corrrectly

right 1 coat of royal blue done damm it dried fast so now 1 coat of ford burgundy over a grey primer and grey / royal blue is now drying also a coat of red oxide dusted on with a blue coat thats just about dry so will mist some burgundy over then take some pics tomorrow going to have to take the pics in day light although you can tell the difference in the flesh so to speak the colours all look the same with the flash

went shopping in halfords and a very nice young man chatted about the idea of blue under red ........... said you will nail it with them colours it will give a nice rich red

shopping list for the weekend Can of red primer can of ford burgundy and a can of royal blue to play at getting the colours right just eed clarification on the lining colour about.1895 and i managed to purchase a nice book about the Edinburgh suburban and south side junction railway has lots of nice details