kandc_au

Green loco's and chocolate and cream coaches

I dare not sign this.

On 24/02/2020 at 07:09, innocentman said:

Hi Daddyman,

 

I used my trusty Midland Railway Centre riveting tool.

 

http://www.midrailcentre.com/rivet-embossing-tool

 

Andy

Andy,
I have tried the link but cannot seem to get anywhere!
If I shorten for the midrailcentre.com it also takes me nowhere.
Any suggestions please?

Khris

2 hours ago, Flymo749 said:

I hope that all of these posts encourage you to have a go at split chassis.  The small amount of extra time invested up front is worthwhile compared to the alternative amount of fiddling that you have to do with *****ed pickups!

 

Cheers

Paul

 

Hi Paul,
Thank you for the links.
What wheels do you use with the split axles please?

Khris

Looking forward to seeing this progress!

khris

Thanks for the responses guys....really appreciated.
Given I am in Aust, it's not easy seeing this sort of stuff in the flesh so to speak.
Once again thank you all for your help.

Khris

1 hour ago, shipbadger said:

Assuming that you are using an axle with an insulated centre section for the gearbox.  You need to also insulate any chassis spacers as well.  I use double sided printed circuit board soldered on both sides (four solder fillets in total).  This helps stop the copper delaminating if subjected to an off centre thrust on the end of the chassis.  Create a gap in the PCB just inboard of the solder joints.  There have been a number of good articles in magazines over the years.  There was on by Barry Luck in the early days of MRJ that is worth seeking out.  I can't find my copies at the moment but perhaps someone better organised than me will tell you which copies it was.  Persevere, split axle chassis you make will be nothing like the proprietary ones.

 

Tony Comber

Thanks Tony,

I shall do some more research of MRJ. Must admit I didn't think to look there.
The thing that has me stumped is the fact that the gearbox would touch both sides of the split axle, the way I see it , thereby causing a short.
I am right , aren't I???

Khris

3 hours ago, Philou said:

Ummmm ... can I ask why you should wish to do that? It seems to me reading other threads on here regarding split chassis, the consensus seems to be this is 'Not a Good Idea' (TM). I have some old split chassis stock that I bought years ago that seem to work at the moment, but I've been looking at ideas to replace the wheels on them with insulated ones instead - just curious.

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

I have read in the past that you can make very good ones, so I was thinking of having a go.
A member whom I have not seen post in a long while (Bertie Dog) was quite proficient I believe!
The commercial ones are another kettle of fish completely.

Khris

Hi,

I have a spare body that I want to try a split chassis system on.
I can get my head around the concept and know I can get the jig and axles.

The issue I am having though is working out, how do I isolate the gearbox/motor so that it doesn't short?

Khris

On 26/04/2021 at 01:43, The Fatadder said:

 

 

the twin moving sleeper as a tie bar is not ideal, but seems to be the best compromise I have found.  As the single tie bar for both switches caused no end of problems, I really don’t get on with under baseboard linkages, and didn’t want to use 4 point motors.  

Rich,
I'm still trying to get my head around why one would need 4 point motors for a double slip and how it would work!
The very first ordinary point I made was done with soldered joints and within 10 mins of moving it back and forth the joint failed.
I have used track pins, suitably cleaned of paint and bent through the tie bars ever since for all points and slips.
(One word of warning though, if using double sided pcb make sure you isolate the underneath side as well with a cut.
I don't need to tell you how I know that......took me a bit to work out where the short was occuring)

Khris

13 hours ago, Penrhos1920 said:

  The GWR had 250 to 300 of each of the 4 diagrams so I plan to have approximately equal numbers of each on Penrhos.

Will you have room for anything else on the layout?

Khris

20 minutes ago, Simond said:

 

 

 

Perhaps the "Dent Clock" would be a fitting moniker.

 

"Construction was entrusted to clockmaker Edward John Dent; after his death in 1853 his stepson Frederick Dent completed the work, in 1854"

 

Sounds a bit dented to me!

Khris

29 minutes ago, Clearwater said:

After two coats, it’s come out better than I had feared.  Line is pretty crisp in places but a couple of points where the chocolate has bled through.  Needs a couple of bits of touching up but overall I’m not too disheartened.  I’d primed in a red colour so I’d masked the drop lights so need to peel off the Maskol to see how that’s worked.

 

David

Need to make sure your tape is rubbed down and stuck down securely to help stop the bleeding.
don't know what tape you have used but I use Tamiya. Found that pretty good.

Khris

2 minutes ago, kandc_au said:

Cannot see a pic but it is late here. In the NOTES though1246 and 1241 were branded with to work up and down west of england tpo then it says 4/50

HTH
Khris

There is a pic of W1036 which is branded but frankly it is not worth scanning for you. (Dia 062)

Khris

2 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

Does anyone with a copy of the HMRS siphon book know if there is a photo in there of a siphon with the "To work only on the Down and Up West of England TPO" please?  Ideally something in the late 40s, but will take whatever can be found.

 

I have been offered a custom transfer for the siphon and need to find a reference to work from.  Thankfully found a semi clear photo of the lettering on the K17 in Russell which was branded (in 1950) 

"10.10pm Postal

Paddington

       to

Penzance" 

 

So I am assuming this would be unchanged from 47 given the age of the coach and the fact it was a back up vehicle. 

Cannot see a pic but it is late here. In the NOTES though1246 and 1241 were branded with to work up and down west of england tpo then it says 4/50

HTH
Khris

20 minutes ago, Ramrig said:

I know its not railways exactly but........... How much would you pay for an empty box?

 

Please be seated before clicking the link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/dinky-975-RUSTON-BUCYRUS-EXCAVATOR-ORIGINAL-OUTER-BOX-ONLY-268/293375380437?hash=item444e890bd5:g:r~wAAOSwFN9d88aS

 

HOW MUCH!!!! 

RAOFLMAO!!!!!!

Khris

14 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

 

I am still undecided about the final lift out section.  The original plan was for a representation of Marley Tunnel (where the wood is below), I might still do that but the difficulty is fitting in the branch (and the transition with Kingsbridge)

Rich,

Would it be possible to have the start of the tunnel there ( where you propose) with the branch into a cutting on the tunnel side?
I'll try to explain:

Approach the whole area with a cutting. the cutting disipates away to the front while the hill actually gets rather steep towards the back, so the tunnel works and the branch only goes through a small section of cutting.

Khris

Shapeways....expensive but at least you can get them reasonably if you place a large order. That is the postage becomes very negligible!
For those in the UK, why don't you look to place an order as a group?
will knock the postage cost to very little per item!
Khris

If you are happy to NOT be a pure cut and shut person, you can do a lot with the triang bodies.

Khris

Is this the link:

Rich,

You are adapt with CAD. Why not draw it up with that and is a silhouette cutter and laminate it together.
That way you get the bridge you want without all the near enoughs.
Just a thought.
Khris

If replacement is the go who supplies them please?
 

Khris

2 hours ago, dasatcopthorne said:

I have used Dunlop Thix 0 Fix for years now. Used for attaching card sides to Perpex.

 

 

Dave

Dave can you elaborate this method?
type of coaches etc.
Khris

Thanks Southport and Johnster.
If anyone reading this has a need for these bogies, give me a hoy as I have a few pair needing a new home.
Already awaiting the correct Dean bogies....due to arrive sometime in March I believe

Khris

2 hours ago, jcm@gwr said:

Depends, are these the plastic moulded B1 bogies,

or the cast mazak with through holes for the axles?

Plastic.
Look like a plate type of frame but I am not sure as I am not up on all the intricacies of bogies as such!

Khris

Guys,

I am talking of the bogies NOT the coaches themselves.

Khris