Pete 75C Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 (edited) I'm rapidly approaching the stage where I need to lay around 6ft of flexi track (Peco's new bullhead) on a gradient of approx 1:50. My usual method is to run a bead of PVA along the base of each sleeper using a fine-tip applicator, and then weight the track with just about ever soup/baked bean/spaghetti tin that I can raid from the kitchen cupboards. Fine for flat and level tracklaying but not sure if it will work on a gradient... the gradient may be shallow enough and the friction great enough to keep the tins in place, but I foresee an avalanche of vegetable soup the second I turn my back... The PVA allows time to get the alignment absolutely spot on and I never use track pins as I detest the holes in the sleepers and the consequent filling and painting of said holes. I can't think of any other way to do this apart from with weights. Does anyone know of a method that hasn't occurred to me? Edited February 11, 2018 by Pete 75C Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted February 11, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 11, 2018 At 1 in 50 tins should stay, however if they don't try using drawing pins. Push these into the gaps between the sleepers. The head is wide enough to hold the track down until the glue is dry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted February 11, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2018 Or, if the baseboard is 50" long, wedge a 1" thick piece of timber under what will be the bottom of the gradient. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted February 11, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 11, 2018 If it's on an embankment, I would put some hardboard, mdf or ply on top of the track and then stack books on top of that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 If it's on an embankment, I would put some hardboard, mdf or ply on top of the track and then stack books on top of that. I should have mentioned the gradient is in a cutting and the sides of the cutting have already been built up. It's just occurred to me that I could put something immovable at the foot of the slope and let the tins butt up against that as they follow the incline upwards. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted February 11, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2018 Use Mushy peas, they always stick to the plate so shouldn't go anywhere..... This has quickly turned from a 'might' into something tangible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
olivegreen Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 …….the friction great enough to keep the tins in place, but I foresee an avalanche of vegetable soup the second I turn my back... You could always try not opening the tins before using them as weights. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium NCB Posted February 11, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 11, 2018 Double-sided tape. No mess, instant stick. You can get some tape (forget where from) which is low tack so you can move if necessary. It'll hold the track easily well enough, and you can then ballast when you please and the ballast glue will complete the job. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted February 11, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2018 , and what layout might this gradient be on then Pete?!! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Vistisen Posted February 11, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2018 I have just been laying flexible track on an incline less than five minutes ago, my method is to glue the closed foam track base in place with pva wood glue, them paint it with a thinned copydex mixture ( 1;1) covering the whole of the track base. position the track in place and scatter the whole thing with ballast. but a corresponding strip of 5mm ply on top of the rails and weight it down with 1 kg weights paces at about 18" intervals, Wait for an hour on remove the weights and vacuum the extra ballast up with a handheld bag less cleaner so it can be reused, and volia Fixed track that is ballasted. Copedex deadens sound much better than pva as it is not so hard. Not only that it is flexible enough to cop with humidity changes and the track can be removed if necessary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLT 0109 Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 If there is 3" between the embankments, there is room to use bricks on their sides - they won't slip on a 1:50. This assumes of course that you have some bricks lying around . . . Even better if you have some spare blocks as used for block paving - they are smaller than bricks. Your local builders merchant may have some broken items they would let you have. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 , and what layout might this gradient be on then Pete?!! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted February 12, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 12, 2018 I can see the Pete75C roadshow coming over to Spain in 2 vehicles, an articulated lorry for the railway related paraphenalia and a Luton van for the rest of the family requirements! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 I'm curious about putting a bead of PVA on the back of each sleeper. Is there a reason for this as I just use a 1" paintbrush and paint the baseboard with PVA to the track width and then sit the track on the PVA. As the second poster said, drawing pins hold it in position and it drys quickly as the air can circulate easily. Gradients are no different. Pointwork I ballast at the same time and just sprinkle the ballast straight on the wet PVA and hoover up the excess. Have I missed something? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Have I missed something? No, you haven't. In my case, it's probably a touch of OCD combined with "neat-freak" tendencies. I've always ballasted later so have never felt the need to paint the baseboard with PVA (which would, without a doubt, be quicker)... I've always run a bead onto each sleeper. Strange, but true. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 I can see the Pete75C roadshow coming over to Spain in 2 vehicles, an articulated lorry for the railway related paraphenalia and a Luton van for the rest of the family requirements! I quite like the Luton van idea, because at this rate, I'll no doubt end up living in it... Next trip over has been postponed to March/April due to having had such a sh!te 2017. Must... buy... HOUSE... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NIK Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Hi, On a club layout with a gradient on an embankment and cutting we used old driver units from old fluorescent tube lighting units as weights. They were very heavy and didn't slip down the gradient and were narrow enough to go on a single OO track. I don't know if there are any sealable containers in a poundshop that can be filled with water or stone ballast to make them heavy enough. Regards Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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