OK, grab a coffee, this may be a long post......
Tender frame assembly.
Take the two frame parts and emboss the rivets for the guard irons, and add 6 bearings.
Take the frame spacers, noting which end is which, and form them to shape.
Next fix the frame spacers, preferably in the correct positions and NOT as shown here. Check that all is square and the wheels all sit on the ground at the same time. (It helps to use wheels of the same diameter)
Laminate the brake blocks: 5 completed here, one to go.
Fit lengths of 0.9mm wire through the frame assembly and prepare the hangers and cross beams.
Add lengths of 0.7mm wire to the ends of the beams having first located brake shackles onto two beams.
The brake hangers fit with the two holes towards the bottom.
Add the cross beams. The one without the shackle to the rear.
Add the brake shoes, pull rods plus the 0.9mm wire and levers that represent the brake shaft. There are two types of pull rod included in the kit. A simplified one or one with forked ends. I used the simplified one. It's probably best to work from the front, setting the shoes a small distance from the wheels. When happy with the alignment, the cross beams are soldered to the hangers, but do not solder the top of the hanger to the support wire. Similarly, so not solder the front pull rod to the lever on the brake shaft. In this way it is possible to remove the brake gear and wheels.
You will then have a complete rolling chassis. I had to swap the frame spacers to get this as I had stupidly mis-located them.
Tender Body Construction
The instructions fail to command the fitting of the 4 6BA nuts that will be part of the chassis retention. I chose to add them first, but there is an argument for fitting the valances first as it means that you can fit the valances and buffer beams to a flat surface.
Valances and buffer beams added.
Then add the frames. There is a half etched line at the rear that could be used to shorten the frames so that they do not interfere with the sprung buffers. I have chosen t put that problem aside for a while.
Next the tender sides/rear. This is a single piece. First emboss the rivets (omitted in instructions). I formed the bends around a rod, using the etched rebate in the floor as a template. Then the flares were bent out 60 degrees and the sides added to the floor. I had used 180 degree solder for the valences and buffer beams and 140 degree for subsequent work.
Tank top supports folded and located.
The next job was a bit of ahead scratcher: fitting the tool box supports to the front. With hindsight it is obvious, but in the absence of any diagram, did require some thought.
Only later when checking through the components list did I realise that I probably should have fitted the tank top front support to the tender front, but in practice it would be impossible to follow the later instructions to push up the tank front to meet the toolbox supports. I think this part (6) is probably superfluous.
Next job is to fit the tank top and tank front. The instructions suggest that you may need to remove a little material from the front of the tank top. I did, but not much. When happy with the fit I soldered the tank top to the top supports on the inside of the tank. Then added the tank front and pushed up the tank top so that it joined with the tool box supports as suggested in the instructions. This would be impossible if the support had been added to the front plate, though it would probably be possible, though fiddly, to align things whilst locating the front plate.
Next up I formed and added the rear corner pieces to the flares. Some fettling required!
As per the instructions I added the beading to the tender top, but on reflection it would be better to wait until the handrails are fitted, see below.
The front platform and shovelling plate formed and added.
I then added the front handrails and top support bracket. I think these should be added before the tender beading as it seems that the beading should continue forward from the flares to run on top of the handrail support. I had to add additional beading and blend it in.
I have also tacked the coal rails in place. They need soldering along their length to fill gaps with the flares.
Altogether that has been satisfying, despite my stupidity in the beginning. I have to add the cab doors. These are interesting as they are a solid sheet that folds back flat along the tender side when open. The kit includes some brass hinges so it will be possible to make them workable.
There are steps to make up and lamp irons to fit. I have not been able to find a photo of the tender rear. Did the tenders carry 6 lamp irons?
I need to work out a solution to the buffer problem. I will follow up PAD's link to how to convert standard sprung buffers to a self contained type and see if that will work with these.
After this there will be the whitemetal castings to fit: axle boxes, springs, tool boxes, tank filler and brake standard.