General question track making

[Peppercorn]

Dear all, my apologies for asking such a basic question.

 

I've just destroyed a C & L point that I'd made. I didn't mean to, but what happened was this: I'd made the point on a C & L template and had stuck down the sleepers using double-sided tape - I'd understood that this was the 'standard' or normal way of doing it. 

 

All went well until I removed it from the tape, in order to transfer to the embryo layout.  What happened is that, in removing the sleepers for which I used a very thin artists' palette knife, I ended up with curved sleepers for the tape was much stronger than I thought and clung onto the sleepers like - or better than - the proverbial.

 

Has anyone a better or alternative method as I'd really like to build some pints that I can use?

 

Regards,

 

CliffH

[Killybegs]

I used to use tape in two narrow strips to take just the very ends of the sleepers and then reduce its 'stickyness' before laying the sleepers. Dab it with a cloth until it is just sticky enough to hold the sleepers in place.

[Bernard Lamb]

Dear all, my apologies for asking such a basic question.

 

I've just destroyed a C & L point that I'd made. I didn't mean to, but what happened was this: I'd made the point on a C & L template and had stuck down the sleepers using double-sided tape - I'd understood that this was the 'standard' or normal way of doing it. 

 

All went well until I removed it from the tape, in order to transfer to the embryo layout.  What happened is that, in removing the sleepers for which I used a very thin artists' palette knife, I ended up with curved sleepers for the tape was much stronger than I thought and clung onto the sleepers like - or better than - the proverbial.

 

Has anyone a better or alternative method as I'd really like to build some pints that I can use?

 

Regards,

 

CliffH

 

It is best to build them where you want them.

If you copy the essential parts from the template on to the baseboard and work from there it soon becomes quite easy.

They are far too tender to be uplifted.

Bernard 

[Peppercorn]

Well, two different methods for me to try! Your's first, Bernard. I hadn't realised, Killybegs just how delicate C & L construction is. My only previous experience was years ago - early eighties - when I build a point using the Brook-Smith method with ply sleepers and metal studs to which the rails were soldered , in the method laid down by the then P4 Society. I still have this point and it's quite sturdy. 

[Ian Morgan]

And another. Stick the sleepers to the paper template with a little PVA glue (not the waterproof type), then dunk it all in water when complete.

[Izzy]

I'm afraid you won't find quite the same kind of inherent strength that ply and rivet construction provides, but using just small strips of tape at the outer edges as suggested, and then using turps/white spirit applied with a brush at each sleeper in turn will ''kill' the tape glue bond for a while and allow the template to be slowly and gently peeled away from the trackwork. I actually use rivets under the crossing nose and wing rails for strength and electrical bonding, and also do the same at the first chair position past the slide chairs on both the blades and closure rails for the same reasons, covering them with half chairs afterwards as you normally would with ply/rivet construction.

 

The worst part with this type of construction is that there isn't that much of a bond between slide chairs and rail, they must of course be glued to the rail sides, while the others can move along the rail. I now paint both sides of the rail inc the chairs while the track is still on the template. This creates an extra bond between rail/chairs which aids removing the completed work and placing it on the baseboard. This is using ply sleepers but I would guess it would work just the same with plastic ones - I have never used them.

 

Izzy

[Siberian Snooper]

I use narrow strips of double sided tape, down the centre lines of the turnout, I tend to stick it to the kitchen worktop a couple of times to reduce the tackiness first and soak the finished turnout in warm water to help release it.

 

If I build in situ, I stick the template down and then stick the timbers and ballast in one go, once dry, 24 hours or so before starting on the rails.

[Gordon A]

Build the point on to an appropriate template securing the sleepers with a good glue.

Secure the template to a piece of plastic coated shelving or glass (something the sleeper glue wont stick to.)

Secure the template to the piece of shelf etc using masking tape around the edges clear of the sleeper ends.

When built cut the template along the inner edge of the masking tape and remove with care.

 

Gordon A

[Junctionmad]

I use good quality paper for my templates and stick the whole thing permentently down with the track