Clattering cobalts.

[great northern]

Can anyone suggest a cause, and hopefully a cure, for this irritating problem?  I run an NCE 5 amp system, with points controlled through NCE accessory decoders. When I set certain routes in my fiddle yard, some Cobalt motors, but not all, throw correctly, but then continue to "chatter" after doing so. Resetting the point(s) concerned does not stop them doing it, but powering down at the mains and almost immediately powering back on again does. Any ideas most welcome.

[WIMorrison]

Which type of Cobalt - there are several

[Trog]

If they are the original type it could be voltage, try dropping the power to them by a couple of volts.

[jukebox]

Can anyone suggest a cause, and hopefully a cure, for this irritating problem?  I run an NCE 5 amp system, with points controlled through NCE accessory decoders. When I set certain routes in my fiddle yard, some Cobalt motors, but not all, throw correctly, but then continue to "chatter" after doing so. Resetting the point(s) concerned does not stop them doing it, but powering down at the mains and almost immediately powering back on again does. Any ideas most welcome.

 

 

Hi Gilbert

 

I suspect these are "cobalt clickers" - the original batch of cobalts that DCC Concepts / Richard Johnson had made had *some* that I understand whose internals were not quite to tolerance, and as a result, they click repeatedly rather than stall and stop.

 

In the past, Richard has been very good about replacing these - and now he is based in the UK - at Settle? - I think if you get a hold of him, and explain the situation, he will help you out.

 

I had four (?) duds out of a batch of 24 I bought for Stockrington back in 2012.  The ones from more recent production runs are much quieter in operation and I've not had a clicker in those.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Edited July 8, 2018 by jukebox

[bgman]

Hi Gilbert

 

I suspect these are "cobalt clickers" - the original batch of cobalts that DCC Concepts / Richard Johnson had made had *some* that I understand whose internals were not quite to tolerance, and as a result, they click repeatedly rather than stall and stop.

 

In the past, Richard has been very good about replacing these - and now he is based in the UK - at Settle? - I think if you get a hold of him, and explain the situation, he will help you out.

 

I had four (?) duds out of a batch of 24 I bought for Stockrington back in 2012.  The ones from more recent production runs are much quieter in operation and I've not had a clicker in those.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

 

 

I had something similar happen and contacted DCC Concepts about the problem.

 

Richard was in Australia at the time of asking and he sent me four replacements together with a full explanation of the problem which Scott has highlighted.

 

Out of courtesy I asked if he wanted me to return the "dud" ones. He said I might as well keep them but if I wanted to experiment with opening them up and making the suggested alterations to them I might then have 4 extra motors. I haven't bothered to do this but it may be a project for the future.

 

Very satisfied with the service.

 

Grahame

[10000]

Cure - replace with Tortoise. 

 

I've had enough of Cobalt motors and in future as they fail I will replace with Tortoise.  

 

Like yours, several early ones clicking/banging.  All where run from their AD4 decoders.  I've also experienced this problem with a newer Digital version. 

 

The final straw was when I had  an old one fail completely so a new non decoder version was bought to replace it only to find it was not compatable with the AD4 decoder and I had to buy a new decoder for it.

[newbryford]

A clicking Cobalt is usually caused by the gears being "over driven" at some point. Usual cause is a power supply that isn't the best (for example, it's not unknown for unregulated supplies to be 40-50% higher than the stated value under no, or small current load, conditions)

Once the gear slips, then it usually gets worse very quickly.

Later Cobalts have better power regulation (the Analog IP and Digital IP versions) that switch to "sleep" mode after a few seconds, with a much lower static current draw.

Try contacting DCC Concepts at Settle. they should be able to sort you out.

 

Cheers,

Mick

Edited July 8, 2018 by newbryford

[TWG]

I recommend that you follow Trog's advice above (post 3).  I had two early Cobalts that clicked loudly.  I lowered the voltage of the supply and they have never clicked since.

[Lissadell]

Could I revisit the Cobalt/Tortoise theme - though not really on “clatter”

 

I installed a small number of IP Digitals last year. It was the first time I’d experienced them so the sound as the motor operated was quite new to me. I just assumed that’s what they sound like!

 

However, more recently, I refurbished a small layout for someone where the points were operated by Tortoises.

 

To say I was impressed by the different sound (what sound?) would be an understatement.

 

Which led me to think, maybe my lack of experience working with Cobalts has contributed to the situation.

 

They work fine, no clatter or bangs, but they do “whirr” quite noticeably and in this respect are quite different to the Tortoises I’ve heard.

 

So, could I ask please, do colleagues find the two motors do sound different when operating? Or is it me!

[pheaton]

for me both cobalts and tortoises do sound different, with cobolts noticeably louder.. what doesent help though is the lack of damping on a tortoise....mind you that doesent seem to make a shread of difference on the cobalt

[WIMorrison]

I have Cobalt IP digitals that are so quiet I have to check the point to ensure they have worked, and I have others that are anything but quiet and what is the difference? It is where they are mounted as some are right beside cross member supports and those are quiet, those that are mounted between cross member supports are noticeably louder.

[newbryford]

Mounting can make a huge difference.

Type of baseboard - wood used, framing etc.

Tortoise and Cobalt screwed hard up to baseboards - yes, the Tortoise is slightly quieter (the gear ratios are very different between the two motors which probably accounts for the difference)

Mount a Cobalt on a foam pad and it's quieter than a Tortoise.

 

 

Cheers,

Mick

[Graham Radish]

My advice here is from new (if you know what you're doing) take the lid off and add plastic gear grease to all the internal cogs, this will minimise wear and it will last for years.

 

This is the stuff i use: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Model-White-Grease-For-Plastic-Gear-Lubrication-Drone-Helicopter-Car-Tank/263947374653?hash=item3d747d503d:rk:4:pf:0

 

These new generation cobalt IP motors are stellar but a bit of preventative maintenance is always a very good idea.

 

Mount with silicone o-ring under the screws and use a thin piece of foam instead of the supplied piece of coarse foam, they will then be nearly totally silent, i much prefer these motors due to them having an inbuilt decoder, massively cuts down on wiring mess. If you do this they will run much quieter than tortoise types. Then theres the fact Cobalt motors have a lifetime guarantee anyway.

Edited January 11, 2019 by Graham Radish