eastwestdivide's whistle-stop tour (B, D, F, I, A)

[eastwestdivide]

Back over here, I was asking about engineering sights to see around Europe, and promised a write-up if and when.

Well a few weeks back I did an Interrail and ticked off a few of those sights.

 

Starting in Belgium, I stayed in Namur, and visited the canal lifts near Strépy-Thieu.

This big one replaced four older ones:

 

It's humungous, puts Anderton in the shade. Unfortunately not working that day because of maintenance.

 

A couple of the older ones, all intricate ironwork:

 

I walked past all four of the older boat lifts, from Thieu station along the towpath into La Louvière. Didn't see a single boat moving all day.

Towards the La Louvière end was this, presumably a towpath tractor, graffiti reading "pauvre train" (poor train):

 

But I got to ride on one my favourite (?) types of Belgian train, here at La Louvière Sud:

 

 

I left Namur and went via Liège, catching this Luxembourg loco + 4 Belgian coaches to Luxembourg:

 

and then via Trier and the Saar district to Karlsruhe.

 

More to follow...

 

[Edited to spell my forum name correctly!]

Edited August 4, 2018 by eastwestdivide

[eastwestdivide]

Karlsruhe. The point of going there was to look at the tram-train system, for comparison with the Sheffield-Rotherham extension whose construction I've been following. I took a trip on the Murgtalbahn route, which takes you from outside the Hauptbahnhof, where you're being followed by buses in the street, then a sharp left and join the main line to Rastatt. There, you turn off, dive through some factories and suddenly you're climbing into the foothills of the Black Forest.

I hopped off at Langenbrand, and was trying to get to the Tennetschlucht viaduct, but the busy road with no pavement, and the heavily-forested terrain were against me, so I followed a footpath and ended up at the next stop, Gausbach:

 

On the way back I bagged a seat looking out of the back cab with the blinds only half-down.

Two shots between Rastatt and Karlsruhe Hbf. First another TT went the other way:

 

...closely followed by a lengthy container train:

 

The tram-trains got quite a speed up, and not just on the main line - the one I caught out of Karlsruhe was delayed about 10 mins by a late IC, and the tram-train driver was on a mission to make up time after that.

 

 

Departure from Karlsruhe was first to Stuttgart, then on a Zürich-bound train (ÖBB loco on Swiss coaches) to Rottweil for a spot of lunch, where there was a collection of preserved bits and bobs:

 

Then on an IC2 (slightly posh double-deck push-pull loco thing) to Singen and along the German-Swiss border to Basel, where train EC9 was brought in by a DB 101 in Rheingold livery:

 

[eastwestdivide]

A short walk across the border in Basel took me to the SNCF platforms, where my push-pull loco and old intercity coaches formed the TER service to Mulhouse:

 

From Mulhouse to the SNCF museum, Cité du Train, is another tram-train, a line that runs from the SNCF station through the streets, then parallel to the mainline to Paris, and then onto the branch line to Thann. I think normal SNCF trains run beyond Thann, and Thann itself is the site of a chemical works [edit: formerly known as] Thann et Mulhouse, which sends out tank wagons of titanium tetrachloride. A true shared-use branch line with tram-trains, passenger trains and freight trains.

So I sampled the much newer tram-train all the way out to Thann:

 

And back to the museum, showing the maintenance trolley which was giving rides alongside the branch:

 

Cité du Train was pretty good. One hall was a bit dark for photos, aka "atmospheric", but it was doable with a steady hand, and there were plenty of other exhibits in the other halls. Excellent pancakes in the cafe.

 

Early double-decker, third class only on top:

 

Golden Arrow:

 

And they're justifiably proud of their engineering achievements:

Edited August 5, 2018 by eastwestdivide

[eastwestdivide]

From Mulhouse, it was back to Basel, on to Zürich for elevenses (full of cannabis shops - no thanks), then on the Austrian Railjet to Budapest, although I went only as far as Innsbruck.

Did I mention I was on a first-class Interrail. Didn't cost that much more than 2nd class for more room, a better choice of seat on busy services, a chance to use the Swiss panorama cars on various international trains, and... on the Austrian Railjets, the onboard wifi allows you to fill in seat and coach number, place your order, and 15 mins later, dinner arrives. Well, two out of three times that I tried. Once it failed and I wandered down to the restaurant car to see what was happening.

Beer (in a proper glass) and chicken schnitzel (on a china plate with metal cutlery). Not bad for a train.

 

From Innsbruck it was on the Munich-Italy EC service over the Brenner Pass to Brixen/Bressanone in South Tyrol/Alto Adige, the German-speaking part of Italy.

Great place, great food, I went up a mountain by bus, cable car and walking boots, and borrowed a bike from the hotel to go along the river path through fruit orchards. Reached this new road bridge beside the busy Brenner railway:

 

Departure from Brixen was on the morning local train to Innsbruck, which was an ÖBB loco and 3 coaches. The coaches were ex-ÖBB, but branded SAD (Servizio Autobus Dolomiti), the local transport operator:

 

Change at Franzensfeste/Fortezza into a SAD EMU to Innichen/San Candido for elevenses:

 

and then into Austria via Lienz and Leoben (and more on-board catering) to Semmering... 

[eastwestdivide]

I arrived at Semmering in the pouring rain, but with an umbrella.

Tip 1: about Google Maps directions for the shortest route - it may take you along a footpath that starts OK, then goes uphill at an alarming gradient, then becomes knee-high vegetation just at the point where you can't face losing all that height again. Umbrellas aren't much good in that situation.

Tip 2: Semmering is steep - take extra knees if you go.

First day there, the forecast was a bit dodgy, so in the morning I did the Mürzzuschlag museum in the morning (via the Vienna-Ljubljana train - impossibly exotic for a child of the Cold War).

Quite interesting, and a good collection of draisines, rail bikes and other oddments in the roundhouse, including:

 

Also at the station, a good exhibition on the Semmering base tunnel, currently under construction, which will cut off the scenic section, and reduce travel times for through passengers between Gloggnitz and Mürzzuschlag from 42 mins to 12.

 

Train back to Semmering around lunchtime, when it turned more showery, so I followed the Bahnwanderweg walking path out of Semmering village, past this ex-railbus in the back garden of a restaurant as a "Speisewaggon" - dining car:

 

And watched a few trains go by:

 

Saw the occasional freight being banked, and others triple-headed. After one shower, I twirled my umbrella too vigorously to get the raindrops off, and the handle broke. They don't sell umbrellas in Semmering, but the forecast was better for tomorrow.

[eastwestdivide]

Day 2 in Semmering, and today the more scenic side to the E, via the Bahnwanderweg to the 20-Schilling Blick (20-Schilling View - it used to appear on banknotes).

There was some engineering work going on, with partial single-line working, and a long pause between trains in the afternoon. I walked as far as the Kalte Rinne double-deck viaduct. Should have taken walking poles.

Engineering train near the summit, diesel top and tail, kids' playground with a slide coming out of a pretend signalbox in the background:

 

The long views:

 

Kalte Rinne viaduct from below:

 

The dribble of a stream that flows under it:

 

Fantastic day out and an astonishing bit of civil engineering, but my legs were like jelly when I got back to my accomodation at the summit.

 

 

The following day I again took the Ljubljana train for connections into EC164 Transalpin, Graz to Zürich through the middle of Austria (Schladming et al) - it included another of those Swiss panorama cars in 1st class. I left it at Feldkirch for a connection to Bregenz on Lake Constance/Bodensee.

The following day I went up in the cable car, views from the top including an IC train in Bregenz station (not a Zürich-Munich as the filename suggests):

 

And Zeppelin flights from nearby Friedrichshafen in Germany. Very odd to see something so large in the sky moving so slowly:

Edited August 4, 2018 by eastwestdivide

[eastwestdivide]

How to get back to the UK from Bregenz?

Caught the Zürich-Munich EC train to Lindau, here at Bregenz (panorama car visible near the back):

 

Watched the loco change at Lindau from a single Swiss electric to 2x DB 218s:

 

Then onto a push-pull 218 and double-deckers (centre) from Lindau-Friedrichshafen-Ulm (Alex train Lindau-Munich on the right with Beacon Rail Leasing loco, Munich-Zürich EC train on the left):

 

2x DB 218s on the Oberstdorf (Bavaria) - Magdeburg IC from Ulm to Bingen, followed by a local to Boppard:

The 218s stayed on the train over the electrified Geislinger Steige, the steep and slow section from Ulm-Stuttgart, after which they were replaced by an electric on reversal at Stuttgart. Couldn't hear them making an effort though - no opening windows.

 

Late afternoon in Boppard, up the Klettersteig (steep path up the side of the valley), with typical Rhine view:

 

And the little train that goes from Boppard steeply up the Hunsrückbahn:

 

And relax - there's a train on the other bank, the ship is the Goethe paddlesteamer, and the beer is mine:

 

Following day, Boppard-Koblenz-Köln-Brussels-Eurostar-KX-Doncaster-home. The Cologne-Brussels ICE was packed in first class as far as Aachen, not helped by a big party from Great Railway Journeys. Perhaps I should have booked a seat.

Interrail now allows one journey in your country of origin on the first and last days of validity, so 1st class free food from KX. One dodgy "gourmet" sausage roll, and Virgin East Coast (as it still was then) didn't bring any tea until Newark. Prefer the Railjets.

 

Until next year... Tschüß/Grüß Gott/Auf Wiedersehen/Arrivederci/Au revoir/Tot ziens/whatever they say in Luxembourg

[Oldddudders]

The Cologne-Brussels ICE was packed in first class as far as Aachen, not helped by a big party from Great Railway Journeys. Perhaps I should have booked a seat.

 

 

Sherry and I did the GRJ tour to Wernigerode last year. This sounds like the last day. The tour operator much preferred putting us on a road coach to being on an actual train. It was my first package tour (at 68) and will undoubtedly be my last - however long I live. 

[eastwestdivide]

If you've got the time to do the research and make the bookings, it's got to be a better deal all round to roll your own - probably cheaper, more flexible and definitely more tailored.

Edited August 4, 2018 by eastwestdivide

[steve1]

Grand stuff eastwestdivide!

 

I have been to some of the places in the past you visited, so thanks for the memories. Boppard Jugendherberge in 1964 on a school trip being one...

 

steve
 

[eastwestdivide]

...Boppard Jugendherberge in 1964 on a school trip being one...

I try and go a bit more upmarket these days. Last time I was in a YH, I decamped to the common room because of the syncopated snoring.

But you can't always tell from the online descriptions: this was my room in Bregenz. Note the outlet from the loo inside the wardrobe in the bedroom. A novel definition of "en suite":

 

Getting sat on the loo was a bit of a challenge too, simultaneously watching where your knees and head are going.

[Oldddudders]

If you've got the time to do the research and make the bookings, it's got to be a better deal all round to roll your own - probably cheaper, more flexible and definitely more tailored.

 

I have just booked a series of hotels over 10 days from Metz to Zittau. I hope my Clio estate will do the rest. 

[Talltim]

Great write up and photos

[EddieB]

Very enjoyable travelogue, with the historical interest of being from a time when Europe was cool, cloudy and wet!

 

The museum at Mürzzuschlag is definitely worth a visit. Thanks to extensive road works, closures and detours last month, I arrived with minutes to spare before it was due to close for the lady in charge’s lunch break, but she kindly informed me that the annexe (roundhouse) would remain open (the main interpretive part closes). Like you say, it has a large collection of draisines, ranging upwards from rail cycles.

[PaulRhB]

If you've got the time to do the research and make the bookings, it's got to be a better deal all round to roll your own - probably cheaper, more flexible and definitely more tailored.

That's where threads like this on here provide valuable travel tips as well as inspiration on places

[eastwestdivide]

Catering supplement: first class offers. The only ones included in the price were Virgin East Coast and Eurostar Standard Premier.

 

Free: Virgin EC Doncaster-London, tea and croissant (1000ish) - I could have had a fry-up, but couldn't face it.

 

Free: Eurostar Standard Premier in a 373, including wine (with a 1st class Interrail, there's still a €38 supplement on Eurostar - it's €30 2nd class/Standard).

Small portions, but tasty enough.

 

Austrian menu, same on Railjets, IC and EC services.

Nice selection of languages.

 

Brought to your seat: Railjet asparagus ravioli

 

As well as the online wifi ordering in Austria, there was on-board entertainment available.

 

Brought to your seat: Railjet chicken schnitzel, potatoes and lingonberry sauce.

 

Brought to your seat: EC164 Panorama car cappuccino.

 

Brought to your seat: EC164 veg curry (not very filling and a bit "repetitive").

 

Brought to your seat: ICE cappuccino, in a china mug (plus a Zimtknuffi cinnamon thing from Cologne station*)

 

Free: Eurostar Standard Premier in a 374 on the return (mid afternoon from Brussels).

 

Free: Virgin East Coast London-Doncaster, gourmet rare breed sausage roll (it didn't say what breed, or what sort of animal).

Not massively impressive. Alcohol also on offer.

 

 

*Supplement to the supplement: platform bakery review...

Medium and large German stations seem have much better platform-side facilities than most of their Austrian counterparts, in particular outlets for sandwiches/bretzels/other bakery stuff. In Austria, I had to resort to my emergency biscuits a couple of times when I'd expected to be able to buy something local and interesting when changing trains. On the plus side, many medium-sized Austrian stations had hot drink vending machines.

 

[Edited for potatoes typoe]

Edited August 5, 2018 by eastwestdivide

[PaulRhB]

Now I'm hungry . . .

[eastwestdivide]

And a compilation video around Semmering, plus a bonus on the Arlberg:

[Oldddudders]

It seems implausible now, but I am convinced the skool library had a hard-back book, probably an Ian Allan annual, that included an article “The Twilight Of Steam On The Semmering”, in the early ‘60s. By the time I rode it in 1967, it was on a modern plush EMU. I had been to see Kriegsloks around Graz, was en route Vienna where, echoing your Cold War point, I wanted to see the Vindobona Express arrive from Berlin via Prague. Sadly the Flying Hamburger days were gone, and it was a VT 18-16 that arrived at Franz Josef Bahnhof. Now even they are museum pieces!

[AMJ]

Excellent travel log.

 

I have done a few trips round Europe by rail. It can often be cheaper to buy tickets in advance for individual parts of the journey rather than the InterRail ticket. However when I managed to visit 12 countries in two weeks that was an InterRail.

 

I book and stay in hotels rather than using night trains as I do like a comfortable bed nice shower and chance to explore a place looking for food and drinks.

 

Until the other year I claimed to have only ever been to Italy for 45 minutes! I was staying in Innsbruck at the Ibis (next to the station) got checked in mid afternoon so went back to see where I could get to. Got the local to Brenner saw some of the Italian banking locomotives.

 

Some tickets are available easily online others are a challenge, however there are UK based companies such as Ffestiniog Travel who are able to book all for you.

[eastwestdivide]

Thanks. Yes, the advance bookings can work out cheaper, and I've used both methods (and a mixture of both) on various trips.

 

This trip was about my limit for multiple stopovers - I had two weeks of mostly 2-night stays in various places (only 1x 3-night stay, at Semmering). Even with just a rucksack, you get a bit tired of packing and repacking every other day. 

[Oldddudders]

When I look back, I realise how much innocent get-up-and-go I have lost. 50 years ago I was entitled to one annual free return trip to anywhere in Europe, by any circuitous route I chose. So Vienna was a natural destination, outward via Germany and Switzerland, back across Germany. As dusk approached, I would alight and go and look for a cheap hotel, which was seldom a problem. For about 15 years, my late first wife and I were entitled to that, 1st class, but we didn't do it once. These days I am a bit more concerned about en-suite etc. All the same.... 

[AMJ]

There was a comment about package trips above, adding to it I had a brochure from a company offering a Harz railway festival. It amounted to two half days on the train whereas I have been and bought a local multiple days ticket to ride the complete system.

[Oldddudders]

There was a comment about package trips above, adding to it I had a brochure from a company offering a Harz railway festival. It amounted to two half days on the train whereas I have been and bought a local multiple days ticket to ride the complete system.

I felt it significant that on our tour, of 36 other people, I only detected one other enthusiast - a retired cleric who volunteers as an SM on a preserved line.

[Coryton]

Some tickets are available easily online others are a challenge, however there are UK based companies such as Ffestiniog Travel who are able to book all for you.

 

In case anyone here isn't aware of it, you can find out just about everything you could want to know about booking rail tickets in Europe (and elsewhere) here: https://www.seat61.com/